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I sold a like brand new 025 for $150. NEW 250 is $299. I say they are worth $200 not $300 JMO.
I have always run Stihl. We have a dealer here that acts the same way. I now have a Husky in the mix and try to purchase commercial grade saws.
I have not heard of a anyone having problems with the bearings on a MS250. What makes you think they use junk bearings on those saws? BTW now that you have the saw broke down why not get the bearings and do it yourself.
I said i got a good deal on it when i bought my Kubota tractor,and he said he understood, but clearly i could see his attitude get cold and he made his mind up that i am not worthy of his service!
It just burns my bucket to have the 250 torn apart and looking all sad. I was hoping to hear" fix it" thats a good saw.
Well here ya go .You're going to shell out between 50 and 60 bucks an hour for repairs in a shop and pay full price for the parts .In addition the repairs may be figured using a "flat rate " book which is always in favor of the dealer regarding the price charged .They're going to charge you whatever than book says .You get to adding it up it might be for example have a hundred dollars to rebuild a carb you could do yourself for under 20 and about a half hour of your time .Now that's just the way many do business .So you either learn how to do the repairs or you pony up the money or buy a new saw .You're ran out of options .
I guess I just don't get it .I've seen countless amounts of people buy these 025's ,029's and other consumer grade saws brand new and pay in my opinion outragious prices for them .Then 2-3 years late complain they go on the fritz .They could have taken half the money bought a good used pro grade firewood sized older saw like an 026,028 even an 038 and with proper care it would last a life time unless it were abused if only used for casual firewood cutting .
Not in this industry Al. Any flat rate charts are totally in favor of the OEM for stingy warranty payments. .
Let me add a little more here .Often times the dealers get the saws because they don't charge for trouble shooting the problems especially due to the fact the owners usually buy a new saws .Plus the fact the owners have no use for the parts .Then along comes dumpster divers like me and pick them up for song and make runners from them .Some of my best deals have came from dealers .It's getting just about time again to make the rounds .
I bought my MS250c brand new 3years ago and cut maybe 15 cords of wood since. And 2 be clear,i didnt buy it from the dealer in town,and i think this might have something to do with it.The saw is like new,and has a bad crankshaft bearing. He(dealer) tore carb and clutch of and handed it back 2 me in a box,charged me half hr labor and said its not worth the fix. I paid $400.
The Stihl dealer I deal with gets a hoot out of me .If he has a rebuilder he knows as sure as God made little green apples if I get it I'm going to add some soup to it .
Al, they are probably special order in different regions that don't do pre-commercial thinning. They wouldn't hardly sell any otherwise. Ours come out of Germany.
Seals $15 for set. Bearings $25 for set. He must have charged you retail for case. They usually give that stuff away when buying. Stihl MS 250 ChainsawAmick's Price: $299.95 The Stihl MS250 comes standard with an 18" bar. Stihl MS 290 ChainsawAmick's Price: $369.95 The Stihl MS290 comes standard with an 18" bar.
Quote from: tcrew on January 23, 2012, 04:41:38 pmI bought my MS250c brand new 3years ago and cut maybe 15 cords of wood since. And 2 be clear,i didnt buy it from the dealer in town,and i think this might have something to do with it.The saw is like new,and has a bad crankshaft bearing. He(dealer) tore carb and clutch of and handed it back 2 me in a box,charged me half hr labor and said its not worth the fix. I paid $400. Just curious...what two stroke oil did you use and at what ratio? Was your chain sharp & cutting well? Kind of interested in having those two components commented on by those who have had issues..see if over a year or so any trends show up.
Quote from: Al_Smith on January 24, 2012, 07:55:13 amWell here ya go .You're going to shell out between 50 and 60 bucks an hour for repairs in a shop and pay full price for the parts .In addition the repairs may be figured using a "flat rate " book which is always in favor of the dealer regarding the price charged .They're going to charge you whatever than book says .You get to adding it up it might be for example have a hundred dollars to rebuild a carb you could do yourself for under 20 and about a half hour of your time .Now that's just the way many do business .So you either learn how to do the repairs or you pony up the money or buy a new saw .You're ran out of options .Not in this industry Al. Any flat rate charts are totally in favor of the OEM for stingy warranty payments. But a repair like the OP is considering really only makes sense as a DIY project. And that's certainly the case for most homeowner saws. The math just doesn't work if you have to pay full retail and shop time to have a dealer do major work to it.The dealer in question should have taken the time to give the OP some actual numbers on what the cost would be. And judging by what he charged the guy for looking at the saw, it would have been a costly repair for sure at that place. I had a guy come in yesterday with a toasted 350. I pulled the rope and could tell right away. Figured I;d do a quick look right in front of the customer. Pulled the top cover and first thing we notice is NO air filter in there. Pulled the plug, looked inside with an inspection light, and she's a mess. Told the customer a rebuild would be almost $300 and I don't recommend it. Took less than 5 minutes, and I didn't charge the guy. No need in a case like that to take it in the back and tear the whole thing down and have to charge the guy. Most of the time when you do that you only create a problem. The customer doesn't want to come back and pay $25 for a disassembled saw in a box that he's never going to fix. So, to avoid that, he may not come in at all. (sometimes that's a good thing) But seriously, with some of these homeowner saws, it's best for everyone to get a quick decision on what to do with it.
I guess I just don't get it .I've seen countless amounts of people buy these 025's ,029's and other consumer grade saws brand new and pay in my opinion outragious prices for them .Then 2-3 years late complain they go on the fritz .They could have taken half the money bought a good used pro grade firewood sized older saw like an 026,028 even an 038 and with proper care it would last a life time unless it were abused if only used for casual firewood cutting .Then again without any malice intended I am rather opinionated about this stuff ,do as you choose .
tcrew, you do have a right to feel the way you feel about this dealer. Treating a cutomer like you treat your best friend in my opion is at the top of the list when it comes to doing business. It sells yourself and your dealership or business. When a repairman has done a complete overview and a very detailed report he has done all that anybody could expect and I feel that is all you wanted to start with. He lied also about the air cleaner and that is a no no. Would never give him the time of day even again. He could have even offered a little advice and said if you would like to repair it youself I can provide the parts but I cant guarante the outcome.. What some people have forgot in life is that being respectfull and honest has more value than you can imagine. You can do the repair yourself and it will be some good over the long haul experience. Getrdone and let us know the results with some photos. bg
Use some Yamabond when you put the new seals in.
A dealer no matter what brand of saw it is will charge you the standard price for parts with few exceptions .None will be inexpensive .One very fine alternative could be people ,venders or sellers of used parts such as Scott from Chainsawr who is a sponser of this site . Good used parts work as good as shiny new ones in most cases for only a fraction of the cost .Then too is the alternative of donor saws to acquire the needed parts .Really robbing Peter to pay Paul in a way but often working well taking maybe two or three junkers to get one good runner .Myself and others do it all the time .You have to have a dumpster diver mind set at times on some of this stuff .Just depends on what you want to do I guess .
Well there's got to be a reason why it flung a bearing in the first place .In defense of Stihl even on a lower priced saw such as is the subject in question they don't use sub standard parts .The reasons could be many .Running the chain too tight.Dust injestion ,worn sprocket or rim allowing the chain to climb .Faulty clutch bearing causing the clutch drum to run excentric .Considering low hours run time those probabley wouldn't apply .Maybe just bad luck for want of a reasonable explaination .
I had heard a report of the plastic cages coming apart on certain bearings but I don't recall the exact situation nor the model or company involved .Unfortunately premature failure of parts can happen to any manufacturer no matter if it's chain saws ,automobiles or kitchen appliances . Service buttetons might be send out or recalls for replacements which again depending might be ignored or have time limit stipulations placed upon them as to warentee .It's just something that no matter if it's Stihl ,General Motors ,Ford or some makers of kitchen ranges or the allmighty Honda and Toyota in fact .Things happen,too bad but such is the way the cookie crumbles .
For others reading this, when the bearing cage goes, several of the balls will go together and leave a blank space. The bearing and crank gets off-center and hangs up
Judging by the price for replacement then evidently this was not one of the special OEM designed Stihl bearings .If it were the price would be around 35-40 bucks for replacement .
I don't happen to have a parts list for a 250 or in fact most of the newer saws like the170-190 etc .However if the bearings are a generic metric size and design they can be cross referenced .On the pro grade of saws Stihl not to mention many German companys like to use specially designed components which are only available through their company .No matter which component or which company or what product those parts will be costly .It's just the way they do things and no amount of complaining will ever change that .14-15 bucks like I said would about be in the ball park for a standard metric bearing which is not OEM .That said they are priced within reason to the market .Now I'm only guessing but would speculate that if Stihl had a problem with that specific component they would have replaced it with a better quality item .I'm not privy to the service bullitons on that saw so I'm certain .
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