Author Topic: Sawing large knotty pine (Read 1119 times)

FeltzE · « **on:** January 19, 2012, 05:51:54 am »

As I have been sawing some of my leftover logs which I seem to do across the winter months I have noticed that they "seem" to be easier to cut in the cooler weather. Straighter cuts, less pitch buildup.

The stock logs; knotty loblolly pine ranging from a small 14" to 36" starter stock, often squaring to 18 or 20 " cants with 6" knots and several inches of heart, bark falling off or totally gone

Target lumber 12-18" wide 1x

Have I lost my mind?

Eric

ely · « **Reply #1 on:** January 19, 2012, 07:19:19 am »

sometimes its lemons,sometimes its lemonade. when the pitch starts to give you problems...and it will, use some oil on the band while you are sawing. i use the same mix i use on my track roller pads.

WDH · « **Reply #2 on:** January 19, 2012, 07:21:00 am »

Less pitch with old, more dried out logs. Less pitch could mean straighter sawing for sure. No, it is not time to enroll you in the nut house

.

slider · « **Reply #3 on:** January 19, 2012, 07:37:29 am »

Danny,what are you using for lube.Besides diesel, tide ultra,3 cap fulls per tank works great for nasty pine.It is a bit pricey but much better than dish detergent. al

5quarter · « **Reply #4 on:** January 19, 2012, 07:51:37 am »

Not to worry...you're no crazier than I am (on second thought, maybe you should think about getting some help).

When I cut pine that wide, I usually cut it 10/4 and put it in the stacks to dry. They can be used as is, broken down into narrower dimensional stock or resawn into 1x stock without to much loss. Knots tend to loosen or distort the board much less when cut and dried in the thicker dimensions , in my experience.

Chet

slider · « **Reply #5 on:** January 19, 2012, 08:02:55 am »

sorry feltz i thought that was danny sawing that old pine.wondered what was up with him.anyhow don't let that stuff lay around too long ,bark starts slipping ,it's a mess cleaning up when your done. AL

Meadows Miller · « **Reply #6 on:** January 19, 2012, 08:23:32 am »

Gday

Sounds like your having a good run of it there Mate

When im sawing old pine thats been laying out for a while in stock piles with loose bark

I pick a spot in the yard and put a couple off logs on the ground and take a fork load from the pile and dump it from about 6 to 8' onto the top of the other logs knocks most of it of and then come in from the other side and pick them up it saves alot off cleaning out from under the mill or inbetween the log deck and alot off fustration

Regards Chris

Magicman · « **Reply #7 on:** January 19, 2012, 08:24:04 am »

I use 2 oz. of liquid Cascade per gallon of water with good results.

Those big knots will give you some "knot wave" misery. When sawing those wide boards in relatively soft wood the band will tend to bow backwards. When it hits those hard knots that tendency will be increased. Since the band is flat, there is nothing that it can do but deform which will cause it to rise and fall when entering and exiting those knots. Hence, knot wave. The wider apart your blade guides are and the duller your blades are, the greater that tendency will be.

Sharp blades will be your friend, and no, you have not lost your mind. Since these are "bark slipped" logs, drying time will be less and cupping will be a minimum. Slab down below any wood that has a distinct "orange" color tint that indicates rot.

POSTONLT40HD · « **Reply #8 on:** January 19, 2012, 08:33:39 am »

FELTZE.....In my lube tank, I always use the same mix. A tank of water, 1 cup pinesol, and a 1 second squirt of
Dawn.
Now as I am sawing, I have a squirt bottle of DIESEL FUEL. When pitch starts to build up on the blade, you can hear the blade start to make a "sizzle" sound.
When I hear the sound, AFTER MY CUT on that particular board and I bring the saw head back to start another cut, I squirt the DIESEL FUEL on the blade. About 3 sprays will do it. The blade will quieten right down and the pitch is gone.
I have found I don't use as much DIESEL as I would if I had a drip system.
I'm in S.C. and the LONG LEAF PINE is full of pitch summer and winter, green or dry.
But my SPRAY BOTTLE......I love it!

JBS 181 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 19, 2012, 09:01:54 am »

I will agree with Magicman and Poston. I saw alot of ponderosa pine which can have some big knots and alot of pitch. That blade needs to be sharp and I do as Poston says by squirting a bit of diesel on the blade to keep the pitch off. The pitch buildup on the blade can cause that blade to wonder just as quick as a dull blade.

FeltzE · « **Reply #10 on:** January 19, 2012, 09:53:29 am »

All good points, as far as cut width, blade sharpness, and knot wave I'm familiar and absolutely support the credibility of data!!!

I havn't tried tide or pinesol, but I think I will start.

It does seem that all blades aren't sharpened of the same quality... I resharpen my own on a cooks cat, and have become well aware of what a blade should feel like when sharp, but the real test is in those knotty logs. There has been more than one occasion that I took a resharpened blade back to sharpen another turn because it isn't up to performance sharpness in the knots.

Oh BTW 1 1/2 Lennox woodmaster C 3/4 pitch, and don't ask what my set is because I don't even measure it any more, I can judge by the cut quality and sawdust left in the cut. Adjustments are made for wider cuts (more set) and smaller logs or hardwoods (slightly less) But technically oh about "so much" (most likely .015 to .022)

Sappy blade buildup always sucks, rubs on the cut, heats the blade, causes waves as it distorts the blade track.

Eric

Meadows Miller · « **Reply #11 on:** January 19, 2012, 10:59:05 am »

Im a big fan of having a little heavy sett on bands its better to loose 1/000ths in kerf than 1/5th off an inch in deviation

same goes for Circ saws I have seen heaps off blokes over the years try to push their kerf down to save 1/25th off an inch only to cut lumber that looks rough as guts

FeltzE · « **Reply #12 on:** January 20, 2012, 06:28:02 am »

I concur on the kerf!

caveman · « **Reply #13 on:** January 20, 2012, 09:29:54 pm »

When you spray diesel on the blade or use the ultra detergent, does it keep the wheel belts (b-57's) clean also? I sawed two longleaf logs last week that were cut several months ago and the pitch built up badly on the blade and the belts. I have been using Pinesol and Cascade. I have yet to try the ultra detergent or diesel but will most likely use it next time I saw pine. Thank you for your suggestions. Caveman

Magicman · « **Reply #14 on:** January 20, 2012, 09:49:39 pm »

I would say that you will always have some sawdust buildup on the belts simply because it gets squished between the turning blade and the belt. I always clean the belts with a wire brush at blade change, but it builds back up and I have to adjust the tension accordingly. I have never seen it as a real problem, just something that happens.

I can periodically clean my blade by engaging the clutch and switching my Lube-Mizer on full force. This additional mist will rid the blade of most buildup rather quickly.

POSTONLT40HD · « **Reply #15 on:** January 20, 2012, 10:12:41 pm »

Caveman.....I have sawn a lot of LONG LEAF.....I know what you're talking about!

When sawing LONG LEAF, try whatever you can......but sometimes you just have to STOP, take your brush and just clean, clean, clean!

Blaszer · « **Reply #16 on:** January 20, 2012, 10:22:21 pm »

Hey FeltzE.....Do you have a brother named Burt? If so, I bet I've heard a story or 2 about ya.....I work with him...He got me started sawing on his mill, then I built my own bandmill.....

FeltzE · « **Reply #17 on:** January 21, 2012, 06:24:00 am »

Yep, Burt the Mechanic....He is responsible for me getting into sawmilling, or at least I'll blame him. I needed some logs sawed and he tripped over an old defunct belsaw and gave it to me. I believe the only thing I ever got from him that didn't work that I fixed. It just grew from there.

If we didn't live 750 miles apart we'd be a serious force to recon with!

Eric

Blaszer · « **Reply #18 on:** January 21, 2012, 10:07:51 am »

VERY COOL!!! Although he and I are 20 years apart in age....I bet we could be brothers.......Word of caution....If you ever work with him near cranes.....be very carefull!!!!!!!! Just ask him......How's your shavings mill plan coming? Steve

FeltzE · « **Reply #19 on:** January 21, 2012, 10:56:44 am »

Did he tell you about that? Shopping for a shavings mill right now. That would round out the logs lumber shavings concept, Anything comming into the yard can be sold back out of the yard including turd logs and slab as shavings. I've already got all the support equipment and I think I've got the local demand for shavings so all I really need to do is to commit.

Eric

Blaszer · « **Reply #20 on:** January 21, 2012, 04:16:51 pm »

Oh yeah...We worked together outside friiday(and froze) WHile warming up he filled me in.....I am trying to use my slab wood(esp cherry) for benches and small stubs for chainsaw carvings....By no means am I great at the carvings, but pratice makes perfect I guess.......

FeltzE · « **Reply #21 on:** January 22, 2012, 06:43:25 am »

Well don't work him too hard he could blow a stitch. But he always needs a project! Tell him to trouble shoot the power on the moulder

caveman · « **Reply #22 on:** January 22, 2012, 08:35:31 pm »

Thank you Poston and Magicman. I will use your suggestions next time I saw. It will not be this week for sure. The county fair began yesterday and I am an ag teacher.
Caveman

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Author Topic: Sawing large knotty pine (Read 1119 times)