Author Topic: debarker (Read 1523 times)

steve phillips · « **on:** January 17, 2012, 03:07:24 pm »

howdy all
its the new guy again .
have a question and open to all opinons
looking at putting a debarker on my mill , i though about a 12volt motor with some chain to slap off the bark .
or is this a real thing that really helps the blade keep sharp, i can see the point.

thanks

beenthere · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2012, 03:15:40 pm »

I didn't follow that reasoning, but there are debarkers that will remove the bark and keep your band sharper longer.
Did you have in mind to re-invent something?

POSTONLT40HD · « **Reply #2 on:** January 17, 2012, 03:29:10 pm »

I have the debarked on my LT40. This is the best investment I've ever made.

As far as you building your own, I'm probably not very much help on giving advice. But I'm sure someone on here can help. I hope it works out for ya. A debarked is worth it's weight in GOLD!

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #3 on:** January 17, 2012, 03:40:09 pm »

The Wood-Mizer debarker is a 1/4" kerf circular blade which saws a groove ahead of the band. This blade and its motor have mounting which allow it to bounce, or you to move it, out of the way sometimes over the highly irregular log surface. It is not a flail, but rather a saw. It will only saw so deeply, if you get logs with deeply textured bark full of mud it may not get through to the clean wood.

steve phillips · « **Reply #4 on:** January 17, 2012, 04:21:55 pm »

hey been there
yeah i am making this thing , i am doing some machining on some frame parts a just thought of a debarker
so yes i will be building it

i have an ole jointer planer i use for parts was thinking about using the cutter out of it ,run it off a belt from motor. add a arm with a spring so it will be pulled against the log

what do you think ?

Magicman · « **Reply #5 on:** January 17, 2012, 04:53:31 pm »

The blade needs to be pulling out of the log. That way it can climb over irregularities as terrifictimbersllc mentioned. Some folks have used stacked circular saw blades. The tooth angle is really too steep on them so maybe turn a couple backwards.

redbeard · « **Reply #6 on:** January 17, 2012, 05:10:07 pm »

Timberking debarker is a pretty simple design I use a dado stackable 8" blades middle ones reveresed. It really is a blade saver.

steve phillips · « **Reply #7 on:** January 17, 2012, 05:33:59 pm »

hey redbeard
yeah i like it ,i like it
straight out and forward ,simple , cant be beat

learydeere · « **Reply #8 on:** January 17, 2012, 07:10:41 pm »

I was going to build my own too but got stopped when i went looking for a 12v motor. I found plenty of 1.5hp 12 motors but they were all around 86amp and for a 20 amp was almost $900. Is there something else that can be used?

JFarmer · « **Reply #9 on:** January 17, 2012, 07:25:22 pm »

I wouldnt own a mill without a debarker, for me it's a must!

millwright · « **Reply #10 on:** January 17, 2012, 07:28:19 pm »

I know a guy that used a motor off of a 12volt backup sump pump with good results.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 17, 2012, 08:26:55 pm »

Steve, what you really need is to see the woodmizer debarker and note the linkages and take a couple of measurements.There are alot of mizers in Va. Frank C.

YellowHammer · « **Reply #12 on:** January 17, 2012, 11:05:01 pm »

For me, the debarker upped my production significantly, but it's got joints, springs, linkages and adjustments that allow it to be aligned, adjusted for depth of cut/pressure, log diameter on the fly, and resist impact damage. Lots of ways to make it work but I would expect a good bit of tinkering to get a homebuilt one optimized. As suggested, seeing one in action would be key.
YH

eastberkshirecustoms · « **Reply #13 on:** January 17, 2012, 11:48:08 pm »

Here are a few photos of my debarker. It is still a work in progress....

redbeard · « **Reply #14 on:** January 18, 2012, 12:10:14 am »

Live edge slabs are becoming or coming back to popularity with woodworkers and artists, it is a niche market and a debarker is a must for this type of cutting. Some buyers do complain about the groove it leaves and I have charged accordingly to those that dont want the debarke r groove in there slabs.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #15 on:** January 18, 2012, 06:35:44 am »

I've used a debarker alot when I ran the LT-70,it works well but I was glad to shut it off.My current debarker is an axe and wire brush,have no plans to build one of those complicated swinging buzzsaws. Frank C.

steve phillips · « **Reply #16 on:** January 18, 2012, 08:24:59 pm »

hey all
hey bandmiller2 thats a good idea , i have a cousin that has a mill ( woodmizer) . next time i go to visit mom im going to check it with some paper ,pencil,camera . if you going to do it dont play right ? ( without playing hard on the wallet)
hey eastberk nice set up ,very clean work . i am heading towards a belt drive instead of buying motor . after checking on dc motors and prices and were they are made at ( china ) , i see belt and pulleys in my future

Magicman · « **Reply #17 on:** January 18, 2012, 08:32:23 pm »

Due to the vast range of movement that the Debarker has to make, there are very valid and practical reasons why sawmill manufacturers use a separate DC motor.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #18 on:** January 18, 2012, 09:53:13 pm »

Why not a direct ac motor? Too fast? Too heavy? Or just trying to find something that will run off mill power?

steve phillips · « **Reply #19 on:** January 18, 2012, 10:02:22 pm »

hey hackberry

im just tight , na i want to try to set it up on its own power. the dc motors and good ones are out of my range . but i am always checking craigslist ect . i am retire so there are days that the only thing i can do is look up info .

everyone in here have been supportive just wanted to say thanks

hackberry jake · « **Reply #20 on:** January 18, 2012, 10:29:22 pm »

I hear treadmill are a good source for variable speed dc motors. An old car blower motor probably wouldn't have the umph but it was the first thing that popped into my head. Maybe a trolling motor for a boat?

eastberkshirecustoms · « **Reply #21 on:** January 18, 2012, 11:38:13 pm »

Here's a link to a stout and affordable motor: http://www.amazon.com/Ramsey-Winch-Motor-Bi-Directional-MBJ4407/dp/B003PL9IUO/ref=sr_1_43?ie=UTF8&qid=1317461975&sr=8-43. I'm not sure what the amp draw is or if it is made in China. I bought my saw drive motor on ebay and the smaller motor to run it all in/out (not seen installed in the pic's) is scavenged from a wheel chair.

pineywoods · « **Reply #22 on:** January 19, 2012, 09:44:47 am »

You'll have a bit of a problem with treadmill motors. They are DC, but need 90+ volts. don't run worth didley on 12 volts. I don't know of any source for 12 volt dc motors that would be reliable and not cost a bunch. . Might be worthwhile to look at a hydraulic pump running off the main engine, then use a hydraulic motor

rs1626 · « **Reply #23 on:** January 19, 2012, 10:29:49 am »

Have you checked out surpluscenter.com they have a 3/4 hp 12 v. its $230.00

steve phillips · « **Reply #24 on:** January 19, 2012, 09:29:29 pm »

howdy all
hope everyones day was good .
i was able to do a day of research and eastberk great idea , did some looking around at different winch motors . found were harbor freight has a winch that goes on sale from time to time for 50ish bucks . add the no ? warranty you buy extra may be the way to go.
thanks all for all of the ideas you put up there

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #25 on:** January 20, 2012, 08:02:48 am »

Steve, back in the fifties ford used a starter motor that was very adaptable,just remove the bendix drive and you've got a 12v motor. Frank C.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 20, 2012, 08:05:07 am »

As Piney says the best thing would be a hydraulic motor,no duty cycle and you could run outher devices too. Frank C.

steve phillips · « **Reply #27 on:** January 20, 2012, 06:51:34 pm »

howdy all
hope all are doing well
had sometime today to research, electric dc motors can handle long periods of running ,for most have thermal cut off device or just burn up .
so hyd or arbor shaft belt driven
i got to looking around my scrap pile (metal pac rat) looked over to my left and there set the wheel horse lawn tractor that was given to me ( onan motor i was working on ) ,well it has a hydro tranny with pump and oil tank

. this may work out yet.
i just need to get back up on my feet and go to work now

, this dang ms has had me down here for a few days and i have cabin fever

eastberkshirecustoms · « **Reply #28 on:** January 20, 2012, 09:10:04 pm »

Hello Steve, as I would agree that hydraulics are superior to electric in many aspects, they come with a premium. (i.e.- they are not cheap) All the hoses, fittings, valves, pump, tank, filter, and oil add up quick and will cost you. If you mill already has hydraulics, sure the cost will be considerably less. With electric, you need a motor, wire, and a switch. For instance, last year I installed a new 3 spool valve for my FEL with grapple, a forth remote spool feeding a solenoid selector to run a 3PH tip and tilt, and a separate set of remotes to power the back hoe. Doing the install myself and fabricating distribution blocks, mounts, etc. - the bill came in around $700 for the project. Would I do it again? -In a heartbeat.
I don't think that hydrostatic rear will help you much. Most lawn tractor hydros are integral units where the charge pump and motor are all built into the rear housing. That would be way to bulky and heavy to mount up as a debarker drive.

pineywoods · « **Reply #29 on:** January 20, 2012, 10:04:49 pm »

Big electric motor looks good on paper, but it's an illusion. Most commonly available 12 volt motors big enough to run a debarker, like starter motors, would last for maybe 1 log before going up in smoke from over heating. The juice to run one ain't free, need a honkin big alternator and heavy battery. Hydraulic pump would likely be cheaper.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #30 on:** January 20, 2012, 10:20:20 pm »

Just bolt some dado blades on the head of your weed eater and add a couple springs and you're set!

eastberkshirecustoms · « **Reply #31 on:** January 20, 2012, 10:34:16 pm »

Quote from: hackberry jake on January 20, 2012, 10:20:20 pm

Just bolt some dado blades on the head of your weed eater and add a couple springs and you're set!

Always thinking outside the box! Me thinks that I like- a gas powered debarker. Throw a micro turbo on it and.... hmmm

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #32 on:** January 21, 2012, 07:03:49 am »

Reminds me of one of the guys we pull tractors with and his "polish" turbo,that is a leaf blower duct taped to the hood of his old case feeding the air cleaner. Mayby an electric lief blower would help my tired old Dagenham mill diesel??? Frank C.

Jaybolicious · « **Reply #33 on:** January 21, 2012, 11:09:49 am »

sorry if the pic is upside down, but this is what came on my mill. It's a $29 briggs and stratton starter motor with a 1/4" round bit. It has a pin to hold it out of the way when you don't need it. The large bearing allows for about a quarter inch of penetration from the bit. It has a light switch conveniently located to operate it. My 21 hp motor has no problem running it at all. I have milled mainly EWP and it helps alot when the logs are a little dirty.

Magicman · « **Reply #34 on:** January 21, 2012, 11:18:07 am »

Your example shows that there are viable options.

(You should be able to flip your picture, re-upload it, and then re-post it with an edit).

Jaybolicious · « **Reply #35 on:** January 21, 2012, 11:38:08 am »

Hopefully this is right-side up this time.

Magicman · « **Reply #36 on:** January 21, 2012, 02:00:29 pm »

Good job!!

Now upload a Chiropractor to turn my head back around straight.

steve phillips · « **Reply #37 on:** January 21, 2012, 02:17:29 pm »

hey jay
no over heating problems on slow cuts ?

Bump · « **Reply #38 on:** January 21, 2012, 03:22:45 pm »

I have a Wm LT 40g25 and have to admit the $1500 for the Retro fit debarker made me cringe. The motor is $600 to buy and another $150 to duplicate the assembly 24 hours to fabricate paint and mount through in a day lost tweeking it in I figured 32 hours. So $1600 for time lost $750 for materials $2350 in a device adding only $500 in value to my mill for resale compared to $800. The WM cost me $1500 with a -$800 for resale and my replicated costing $2350 with -$500 resale. So final tally of $700 for the factory and $1650 for the replicated. I decided to order the factory one.

Magicman · « **Reply #39 on:** January 21, 2012, 03:53:50 pm »

I have never run a sawmill without a Debarker, but looking at some of the logs that I am faced with, I cringe to imagine the thought.

Jaybolicious · « **Reply #40 on:** January 21, 2012, 04:08:34 pm »

Never had an issue with overheating. I turn it on and off before and after each cut usually, but I leave it on continuously too and it never gets hot. I would know if it were because I put my hand on the motor usually when I pull it back to pin it out of the way. One thing I learned is never start the motor when it is already in contact with the log, I broke two of three teeth on the debarker bit once because it was on a hard knot when I started it, $15 bucks for a new bit. Now I always start the motor then engage the debarker into the log and haven't had an issue since. If there are lots of knots or if the log is very irregular, I'll only pressure wash it as good as I can rather than risk breaking something on a knotty or bad log, this seems to be rare with the EWP I've been milling though.

Magicman · « **Reply #41 on:** January 21, 2012, 04:31:41 pm »

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Bump.

Bump · « **Reply #42 on:** January 21, 2012, 04:48:35 pm »

Thank you

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Author Topic: debarker (Read 1523 times)