Author Topic: debarker (Read 1523 times)

steve phillips · « **on:** January 17, 2012, 03:07:24 pm »

howdy all
its the new guy again .
have a question and open to all opinons
looking at putting a debarker on my mill , i though about a 12volt motor with some chain to slap off the bark .
or is this a real thing that really helps the blade keep sharp, i can see the point.

thanks

beenthere · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2012, 03:15:40 pm »

I didn't follow that reasoning, but there are debarkers that will remove the bark and keep your band sharper longer.
Did you have in mind to re-invent something?

POSTONLT40HD · « **Reply #2 on:** January 17, 2012, 03:29:10 pm »

I have the debarked on my LT40. This is the best investment I've ever made.

As far as you building your own, I'm probably not very much help on giving advice. But I'm sure someone on here can help. I hope it works out for ya. A debarked is worth it's weight in GOLD!

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #3 on:** January 17, 2012, 03:40:09 pm »

The Wood-Mizer debarker is a 1/4" kerf circular blade which saws a groove ahead of the band. This blade and its motor have mounting which allow it to bounce, or you to move it, out of the way sometimes over the highly irregular log surface. It is not a flail, but rather a saw. It will only saw so deeply, if you get logs with deeply textured bark full of mud it may not get through to the clean wood.

steve phillips · « **Reply #4 on:** January 17, 2012, 04:21:55 pm »

hey been there
yeah i am making this thing , i am doing some machining on some frame parts a just thought of a debarker
so yes i will be building it

i have an ole jointer planer i use for parts was thinking about using the cutter out of it ,run it off a belt from motor. add a arm with a spring so it will be pulled against the log

what do you think ?

Magicman · « **Reply #5 on:** January 17, 2012, 04:53:31 pm »

The blade needs to be pulling out of the log. That way it can climb over irregularities as terrifictimbersllc mentioned. Some folks have used stacked circular saw blades. The tooth angle is really too steep on them so maybe turn a couple backwards.

redbeard · « **Reply #6 on:** January 17, 2012, 05:10:07 pm »

Timberking debarker is a pretty simple design I use a dado stackable 8" blades middle ones reveresed. It really is a blade saver.

steve phillips · « **Reply #7 on:** January 17, 2012, 05:33:59 pm »

hey redbeard
yeah i like it ,i like it
straight out and forward ,simple , cant be beat

learydeere · « **Reply #8 on:** January 17, 2012, 07:10:41 pm »

I was going to build my own too but got stopped when i went looking for a 12v motor. I found plenty of 1.5hp 12 motors but they were all around 86amp and for a 20 amp was almost $900. Is there something else that can be used?

JFarmer · « **Reply #9 on:** January 17, 2012, 07:25:22 pm »

I wouldnt own a mill without a debarker, for me it's a must!

millwright · « **Reply #10 on:** January 17, 2012, 07:28:19 pm »

I know a guy that used a motor off of a 12volt backup sump pump with good results.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 17, 2012, 08:26:55 pm »

Steve, what you really need is to see the woodmizer debarker and note the linkages and take a couple of measurements.There are alot of mizers in Va. Frank C.

YellowHammer · « **Reply #12 on:** January 17, 2012, 11:05:01 pm »

For me, the debarker upped my production significantly, but it's got joints, springs, linkages and adjustments that allow it to be aligned, adjusted for depth of cut/pressure, log diameter on the fly, and resist impact damage. Lots of ways to make it work but I would expect a good bit of tinkering to get a homebuilt one optimized. As suggested, seeing one in action would be key.
YH

eastberkshirecustoms · « **Reply #13 on:** January 17, 2012, 11:48:08 pm »

Here are a few photos of my debarker. It is still a work in progress....

redbeard · « **Reply #14 on:** January 18, 2012, 12:10:14 am »

Live edge slabs are becoming or coming back to popularity with woodworkers and artists, it is a niche market and a debarker is a must for this type of cutting. Some buyers do complain about the groove it leaves and I have charged accordingly to those that dont want the debarke r groove in there slabs.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #15 on:** January 18, 2012, 06:35:44 am »

I've used a debarker alot when I ran the LT-70,it works well but I was glad to shut it off.My current debarker is an axe and wire brush,have no plans to build one of those complicated swinging buzzsaws. Frank C.

steve phillips · « **Reply #16 on:** January 18, 2012, 08:24:59 pm »

hey all
hey bandmiller2 thats a good idea , i have a cousin that has a mill ( woodmizer) . next time i go to visit mom im going to check it with some paper ,pencil,camera . if you going to do it dont play right ? ( without playing hard on the wallet)
hey eastberk nice set up ,very clean work . i am heading towards a belt drive instead of buying motor . after checking on dc motors and prices and were they are made at ( china ) , i see belt and pulleys in my future

Magicman · « **Reply #17 on:** January 18, 2012, 08:32:23 pm »

Due to the vast range of movement that the Debarker has to make, there are very valid and practical reasons why sawmill manufacturers use a separate DC motor.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #18 on:** January 18, 2012, 09:53:13 pm »

Why not a direct ac motor? Too fast? Too heavy? Or just trying to find something that will run off mill power?

steve phillips · « **Reply #19 on:** January 18, 2012, 10:02:22 pm »

hey hackberry

im just tight , na i want to try to set it up on its own power. the dc motors and good ones are out of my range . but i am always checking craigslist ect . i am retire so there are days that the only thing i can do is look up info .

everyone in here have been supportive just wanted to say thanks

News:

Author Topic: debarker (Read 1523 times)