Best Chain for large bucking?

[Al_Smith]

Well  a 660 really is not a tool for a novice now .Be carefull with that thing because that's a whole lot of power there .

[NCFarmboy]

Welcome to the Forum Richard    What I'm not understanding is not being able to tell when the chain starts getting dual. You should be able to feel emediately  when you lose the edge on the chain.
  Over 30 yrs of hand filing I've tried about every way to get the best performance out of a chain in hard wood and soft wood. How much angle, pitch, a cutter should have and how low the rakers should be. Over all these yrs i never had a chain on a grinder. When i put a new chain on it didn't come off the saw on till it had to be shortened or threw away. I've cut wood so dirtying on the landing i used a chain every day.
  When cutting hardwood you want to keep the chain speed at peak rpm, you want that 66 throwing chips 20', working the throttle just like the Monster trucks do.
  Use a Full Chisel chain, filed at 40 degree angle, 10 degree pitch, with a 5/32 file, rakers 35 Thou, 30 degree slope on rakers. When this is all done right it will cut that Oak like hot butter.
I get excited thinking about it, i wish i was there to give you a hand.

Back when i bought a new saw, the Dealer couldn't put a Chisel chain on it because of liability. He'd hand me the chisel chain and I'd have to change it.

Was reading this post and saw 5/32" file on I assume 3/8" chain.  Never thought about using a much smaller file.  What about the gullet?
Shep

[Al_Smith]

Some people drop down a file size when the tooth becomes about half used up .It's just a preference .

I personally take the gullet clear down to the tie strap but don't change the top angle keeping it 30 or 35 which ever the chain came with .Again preference .

It's only going to cut as deep as the raker is set it's just that a full gullet will roll a bigger chip  before it rocks up out of the cut .

[Richard Karwowski]

Agree the 660 is not the best choice for a novice. Sort of like going from a moped to a Harley. I take my time, wear 9 ply chaps, protective boots, etc. I'm not young (57) so have been around long enough to know how quickly you can get hurt.
   Have taken down some fairly large dead pines (30"+ in diameter) and I have to admit it makes me a little nervous when they start to fall. So far they have all gone over where I wanted them to but I always park my truck well out of harm's way...

[Al_Smith]

Agh 57 I remember it well .

[lumberjack48]

I use a 5/32 file on a 3/8 chisel chain right out of the box.

Take a good look at a new chisel cutter before you file it, it looks like its been filed with a smaller file then a 5/32 file.

On a new 3/8 chisel chain, when you put it on the saw, grab a 5/32 file and you'll see and feel the file fits right in the factory grind.

The only part of a chisel chain that does the cutting is the tip and top edge of the cutter.
If you file to deep you get to much hook, it will jerk and grab the wood, stop the chain, this is hard on everything and dangerous. You want to make sure theres a little bit of the file showing above the cutter when filing.
If you file to high on the cutter you get what is called a dray runner, no matter how times you sharpen, it cuts like its dull.

Once you get started right its so easy to keep sharp, a guy has to take his time to learn what to look for and get the feel of the file, then it starts to be fun.
When you look at the top edge of a cutter and you see a shinny edge, your chain is dull. You have to file until the shinny edge is gone, every stroke of the file you can watch it disappear.
One of the main things when filing by hand is don't rock the file, long slow straight strokes with the file [ don't pull the file back against the cutter]

[chevytaHOE5674]

On my 3/8 chain I use either 7/32 or 13/64 files as that is what is recommended by the manufacture and they are the right size for the chain. They don't get into the tie straps and don't take too much off the top plate.

Only way to get good at hand filing is to do it over and over. Which means that you need to cut a lot of wood  .

[Al_Smith]

Like I said it's just a preference .

[lumberjack48]

I'm sorry Al, its not a preference for me, its the one that does a better job. I used a 7/32 for 25 yrs, I'd bought my son a little John, Jonsered, it called for 5/32 file. All my files were shot, so i grabbed the 5/32 file to finish the day.

I filed with it the rest of the day, i couldn't believe the difference, my saw cut smoother and faster and i could throw an edge on in half the time. I never went back to a 7/32 file.

Chevy, step out of the box, try a 5/32 file, the thing is you have to know how to file to use one, so you shouldn't have a problem. Theres no reason to be filing all that chain when theres no need to. The 5/32 break easy so don't push to hard, and turn the file counter clockwise when your filing.

I don't think you have any idea how much wood this Ole lumberjack has cut by hand. If i need a reference i can give you many, many ph #'s to call.

[Al_Smith]

Well with due respect sir I don't question your methods I just make reference that there is more than one way to skin a cat .

Preference meaning in any case the method a certain person prefers to use .Mine doesn't happen to be a 5/32" file or a 40 degree top plate angle . Although I might add I do use a 5/32 on a certain portion of a race chain which is not  the topic so I won't go there .

[lumberjack48]

What i go by is how fast it cuts, the faster i can get it to cut the more i like it.

If you told me to use a 1/2" file, and it cut like a razor blade i would use it, what ever my preference was.

[Al_Smith]

Well yeah I can toss a race chain on and it does cut like a razor  but it just doesn't last long .

So then you have a choice 5 minutes with a 7/32 file on a 20 " loop of round chisel or an hour with three different files on a 3/8" square cut race chain .

It's a choice .I was born in '48 too by the way and have ran these noisey things since I was a teen ager .I'll just stick to my 7/32 file on a work chain I think .

Just to clarify though we have no soft woods in this area save an occasional linden or cotton wood .Any deviation from the standard factory sharpening methods really doesn't gain much in terms of speed in the oaks and hickorys ,sugar maple and dead ash trees .A 40 degree angle might cut faster but only for a short period of time .On a dead ash you wouldn't make it a tank full .

[chevytaHOE5674]

I've tried all different sized files and always come back to the 7/32 or 13/64 as they do a good job for me, and I too cut a lot of wood.

If you prefer the 5/32 then have at it.