Author Topic: 3000 or 6000 mile Oil Change (Read 3330 times)

red · « **on:** January 08, 2012, 09:07:55 am »

This week Calif started asking people Not to change their Oil early

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 08, 2012, 08:59:04 pm »

I can see it now getting pulled over and ticketed for having clean oil in your truck. Frank C.

tyb525 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 08, 2012, 11:15:06 pm »

In all honesty, the 3000 mile oil change was needed back in the day, but with today's more advanced synthetic/semi-synthetic oils you can easily go 6000 miles and have no problems (as long as you check you oil level, which you should regardless of how many mile you go between oil changes).

Although passing a law for it is a bit ridiculous if you ask me

Ianab · « **Reply #3 on:** January 08, 2012, 11:34:04 pm »

The other thing is how long it takes to do 6,000miles. If you only do 3,000 miles in a year, you should probably change the oil after 12 months, no matter how many miles on the clock. Might be a lot of round town, stop start driving on a cold engine, not so good for the oil.

If you do 6,000 in 3 months, that suggests a lot of open road driving on a warm engine, and it probably fine for at least 6,000miles.

Ian

thecfarm · « **Reply #4 on:** January 09, 2012, 06:55:49 am »

I'm from the old school. Yes,I know oils are better,motors too,but I still like to change at 3000. I can see why not too. Would save alot. I change the tractor we mow with at 50 hours. Gets alot of hot steady usage and high rpm too.

doctorb · « **Reply #5 on:** January 10, 2012, 07:27:48 am »

I'm from that same school. What year did you graduate?

I used to change oil every 3000 miles. I think one of the benefits of that schedule was that it was much less likely that you would ever run low on oil, just because you changed so often. My mechanic has me backed off to every 5000 miles now.

thecfarm · « **Reply #6 on:** January 10, 2012, 07:32:39 am »

10 years after you.

Norm · « **Reply #7 on:** January 10, 2012, 07:57:42 am »

I go 6 or 7k on cars or trucks, our heavy equipment I go every 250 hours or less depending on the oil that's used in it and how hard I run it.

I remember one farmer around here used the premium JD oil in his tractors and after he drained it he'd use it in his pickup. The mechanic that was telling me this said although JD has some good oil it's not that good.

ely · « **Reply #8 on:** January 10, 2012, 09:33:31 am »

i try for the 3000 mark on my stuff. i know a man who was a diesel mechanic for most of his adult life who would use the drained oil out of school buses in his own trucks and equipment... you would think he was smarter than that.

also used to work with a guy that had a 1970 something lincoln continental, that never once had the oil changed in it. about twice a year he would screw a new filter on the engine and add enough oil to get the level back up... this was in 1989... he drove that car everyday for 6 years i worked with him around 100 mile round trip. im pretty sure he drove it until 99.
if you stuck your finger down in the valve cover the sludge was like someone pumped the grease gun inside the engine.

my dad worked at a service station when he first married my mom, someplace in texas, said there was an oilman who had a filter system on his truck that had a place on it to drop in a roll of toilet paper. he would have dad change the roll twice a month and change the oil when it was called for. dad says the oil in that engine always looked brand new even when he drained it out. this was around 1958-60ish.

Larry · « **Reply #9 on:** January 10, 2012, 09:26:57 pm »

Kathy bought a new Honda CRV about 4 years ago. It has one of those electronic gizmo’s that I guess counts the engine revolutions and tells ya when its time to change. Ok, I thought we will do it since it had a 100,000 mile warranty. The gizmo tells us to change oil about every 10 or 11,000 miles which we do. Actually, according to the gizmo, we are changing about 1 to 2 thousand early.

As of today it has some 70,000 miles on it, runs like a new one, and does not use a drop of oil. Were debating on wether to keep it or trade...Kathy really likes it so we will probably keep it.

SPIKER · « **Reply #10 on:** January 10, 2012, 09:51:49 pm »

back in the day I did mine 3K as well, but now it is more like 5K or 6K usually shoot for even 5K 10 K ect makes it easier to remember as I do my own. rand into a deal at Menards for full synthetic and picked up 2 cases so last change was more like & or 8K on my Fords, was finally down to the ADD mark and I only fill them to half way up.

the POS Honda Passport (Isuzu) needs a quart with the fill up I think it goes 5K but take 3 or 4 quarts in between that mileage. My truck now leaks a bit with the aftermarket oil pan the 1st one was really rusty and getting moist so I had a new pan put on & now it leaks some at the rear main.

Mark

Chuck White · « **Reply #11 on:** January 12, 2012, 06:36:42 am »

I used to have my oil changed every 3,000 miles, then yesterday I was in for an oil change and the service attendant suggested that it wasn't really necessary.

He suggested I wait for the "Change engine oil" sign to come across the odometer. That would be around 5,000 miles, depending on driving conditions!

By the way, I had him check the oil level before he drained it and he said it was right on the full mark.

Note: I change the oil & filter in my mill every 100 hours.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 12, 2012, 07:19:22 am »

Most of us today run multiviscosity oil,the additives have a life span.If you have a real oil pressure gauge there will come a time when the oil pressure will drop slightly be it three,four,five or more thousand miles thats the time to change.Myself I do it three to four thou.Air cooled engines like used on bandmills run hot and in a dirty area,best oil is a synthetic changed often,dosen't take that much and you will add usefull life to your engine. Frank C.

Magicman · « **Reply #13 on:** January 13, 2012, 08:28:37 am »

Every 5K just makes it so easy to keep up with oil/filter changes. Of course with the Lombardini Diesel on the sawmill, it's oil/filter every 125 hours.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #14 on:** January 13, 2012, 11:21:23 am »

The Jetta diesel spec is every 10,000 mile. The generator at the mill gets it once a month. But, sometimes we miss that.

OneWithWood · « **Reply #15 on:** January 13, 2012, 06:32:31 pm »

I change the oil in my Ford F350, 6.0 every 7500 miles. Runs like a clock.

beenthere · « **Reply #16 on:** January 13, 2012, 08:03:16 pm »

OWW
That ticking doesn't bother you anymore?

LeeB · « **Reply #17 on:** January 14, 2012, 08:15:38 am »

that's funny.

OneWithWood · « **Reply #18 on:** January 14, 2012, 12:05:01 pm »

submarinesailor · « **Reply #19 on:** January 14, 2012, 11:18:08 pm »

Check out this link: http://articles.latimes.com/2011/dec/15/business/la-fi-autos-oil-change-20111215

It's an LA Times article about the 3,000 mile oil change. Believe it or not I change out my oil every 20,000 miles and the filter every 10,000. Admittedly it's AMSOIL rated for 25,000 and their Ea oil filter rated for 15,000. Got 257,000 on this Super Duty diesel, so I'm doing something right.

Bruce

Piston · « **Reply #20 on:** January 15, 2012, 02:55:24 am »

Same as Ron, every 10,000 on the Jetta TDI as per V dubb's recommendation. I go with every 5,000 on the f350 diesel just to make it easy to remember, i like nice round numbers.

That reminds me though, I am due for an oil change on the tractor.

TreeWinder · « **Reply #21 on:** January 15, 2012, 09:40:24 am »

Change oil and filter every 5K, just easy to remember on my end.

sandhills · « **Reply #22 on:** January 15, 2012, 11:49:41 pm »

I guess I'm really old school then, I try for every 2000 on the cars/trucks and 150 hrs on the tractors

. Still cheaper than an overhaul I guess.

Magicman · « **Reply #23 on:** January 16, 2012, 05:00:50 pm »

Today's oil has graduated from the old school to a new school. Really, you can push at least twice that on the autos and still prevent overhauls.

Bill Gaiche · « **Reply #24 on:** January 16, 2012, 09:40:48 pm »

This what I do and its because, engines and there componets are made of better materials than they were years ago. Gas engines are injected so the engine runs leaner and cleaner. You dont have cylinders getting the oil washed out by excess fuel. Less wear. Tolerances are closer. Oils have been made better which give you more mileage. Diesels are the same way. I cange oil on my Duramax at 10,000. At 5000 I change filter and top off oil Rotela 15w40. At 10,000 change all oil and filter. Repeat, Repeat. 150,000 so far. Not much for a diesel I know but I will drive it till it wears me out. Have a 2010 suv and I use the same oil change procedure for it. Supertech full synthetic 10w30. This may not be perfect but it will have to do. I have been doing this for about 15 years and so far so good. bg

plowboyswr · « **Reply #25 on:** January 18, 2012, 02:50:31 am »

We've been changing the trucks and cars at 3000 miles. tractors and irrigation pumps at 100 hrs. Dad's 686 international he bought new in '79 has 11000 hrs and still no overhaul.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #26 on:** January 18, 2012, 04:54:01 am »

We have a 2008 Merc bought new . Basically the same as a Lincoln but cheaper .It now has just gone over 17000 miles .

I have the oil changed at the dealership because believe or not they do it cheaper than I can and I have a drive on hoist so it's easy to do for me .

The first 15,000 it was changed every 3000 and know it's schedualed for 5,000

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #27 on:** January 18, 2012, 07:13:59 am »

Your right Al the ford crown vic,mercury,and lincoln town car are mechanically the same critter.Take care of that Merc their not making any more,100 years of evolution they had them perfected, now all changed.My last two cars were lincoln town cars love-em.Spent my life working on fire and police crusers I'am comfy with them logistics helps too. Frank C.

DarkBlack · « **Reply #28 on:** January 18, 2012, 06:37:55 pm »

While better than nothing, chainging oil by mileage is not reliable

Al_Smith · « **Reply #29 on:** January 19, 2012, 07:08:00 pm »

Frank I've always had big old boats to drive .The Merc replaced '90 Caddy.I've had Lincolns ,Caddys,Olds Toronado ,'98's ,big Fords and a '59 Pontiac with tri power when I was a teenager .Passed every thing but a gas station .

You know with the exception of the hot rod '59 those things got just as good of highway milage as the mid sized cars .Like right now .The Merc gets 26 on a trip .My '97 Ranger with a 2.3 liter gets 26 with half the sized engine .Go figure that one .

Bandmill Bandit · « **Reply #30 on:** January 19, 2012, 07:31:43 pm »

The Technology that goes into a bottle of oil these days is a very good reason to extend to at least 6000 miles on "normal" use. One must use there head on this one as differing conditions of operation will have the most affect on the change interval. I have been running 10,000KM (6000 Miles) since Gulf Oil came out with the Hydro treated oils in the late 70's.

I have never regretted it.

As far as making it a law? Well if we didn't have a bunch of babys on the continent we wouldn't need a nanny state now would we?

Can you imagine what explorers like Lewis and Clark (USA), David Thompson and Alexander MacKenzie (Canada) and all of their contemporaries would be like coming out of todays society.

This continent would still be undiscovered.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #31 on:** January 19, 2012, 08:35:34 pm »

Yes Al,I'am going to miss the "road locomotives" Frank C.

sandhills · « **Reply #32 on:** January 20, 2012, 12:24:37 am »

Quote from: DarkBlack on January 18, 2012, 06:37:55 pm

While better than nothing, chainging oil by mileage is not reliable

I agree, seems like everything I do is dusty, dirty, and I'm always pulling or hauling something

.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #33 on:** January 20, 2012, 07:54:10 am »

Well yes the milage thing really is unreliable .Highway miles are probabley the easiest miles put on a road vehical .However in our case a majority of miles are less than 10 per trip so with that in mind I still prefer 3000 mile intervals .Keep in mind in the 60's they recommended every 30 days or 1000 miles .Now of course the filter was a buck and a half and the oil a quarter a quart back then .

red · « **Reply #34 on:** January 21, 2012, 10:15:50 am »

I think it is very intersting all the how and whys of changing any engines oil The new oils are much better the MFG of all vehicles tell you to change Later If you disagree send a sample of your oil to a lab for analysis you may be surprised and of course you may fall into a situation where it needs to be changed

pyrocasto · « **Reply #35 on:** January 21, 2012, 04:17:04 pm »

I change every 10000-15000 on my 05 colorado. I've always ran full synthetic and she's always ran like a champ. Never had any signs of engine problems so far, 122000 miles and counting.

Clark · « **Reply #36 on:** February 11, 2012, 03:44:56 pm »

About seven years ago I owned an '89 Accord, got looking through the owner's manual to find something and saw that Honda recommended an oil change every 6K or 7.5K miles, can't remember which. That got me thinking. After all, who is telling you to change your oil every 3K miles? Started looking around for "the source" and it seemed to be mechanics, oil companies and the like. It's kind of like having three servings of dairy a day because the American Dairy Association tells you that is best!

I did more research and found out that most new engines can easily handle a 10K mile oil change with a modern synthetic oil. Been doing it that ever since on my car and truck and it's never a problem.

Clark

PS - I don't really agree with the nanny state either. Maybe some education through the municipal solid waste disposal programs could educate lots of people instead of trying to pass a law?

breederman · « **Reply #37 on:** February 12, 2012, 06:48:46 am »

I just change the oil and filter in my work van every month or so.5-6000 miles. This one has 327000 miles on it and still going.

3.1 chevy gas.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #38 on:** February 20, 2012, 09:52:08 pm »

Now this sounds odd to me so I'm only repeating what a guy at work told me today .He just bought a brand new Ford Explorer .That thing somehow moniters the oil and tells you when it needs changed via the onboard computer .

According to the dealer once the moniter indicates an oil change as long as it's done within 2500 miles it's good .It could be 9000 miles before it calls for one though .

It's premium synthetic 5w-20 oil but still that sounds like a lot of milage to me .

Larry · « **Reply #39 on:** February 21, 2012, 07:08:51 am »

Sounds similar to how our Honda works. The display shows remaining oil life in percentage. The manual suggests changing oil when the display shows 15% oil life remaining. With our driving habits that is normally around 11,000 miles.

I asked the Honda mechanics if that was normal and they said yes. Most owners are changing oil in the 8,000 to 12,000 range. I suspect the monitor is counting engine revolutions.

This is the first vehicle that we have ever let go so long between oil changes. Honda insists the interval is correct and backed it with a 100,000 mile warranty.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #40 on:** February 21, 2012, 07:51:16 am »

I'm not exactly sure how it works .

It would make sense the computer would moniter engine temperature, running time per trip ,oil pressure and perhaps number of other things .

With the advent of modern fuel injection and electronic engine controll they just about self diagnose themselves .Good thing too else the average mechanic would be doing a lot of head scratching .

In words of Ringo Starr this is not your fathers Oldsmobile .

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #41 on:** February 21, 2012, 08:31:58 am »

Mayby I'am living in the late geriatric period,but I don't want the car telling me when to change its oil or talking to me.I've managed fleets all my life and know when I want to change the oil.That DanG "check engine light" that should just be a big dollar sign. Frank C.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #42 on:** February 21, 2012, 11:32:12 am »

I'm not exactly sure if the "check oil light " is the same as what the oil change message is .Now of days most modern auto engines have a low oil lever sensor in addition to a pressure switch .

Say I did take the time to research how that oil change deal works and it's exactly as I suspected .Through a combination of mathamatical formulas the computer can figure out by the method of driving ,operating temperatures pressures etc just about when the oil needs a rotation .

Now be that as it may in my opinion if it's unfit for lube oil in an engine it would stand to reason it wouldn't make good hydraulic fluid either .Burn in a black oil burner so as not to be tempted to use it for something else .Oh maybe as a preserative for a wagon deck or something .Kinda nasty for that but it works for a little while .

downeast · « **Reply #43 on:** March 04, 2012, 05:21:58 pm »

The manuals for vehicles, gas or diesel, spec the oil changing interval based on use. The ASE guys here recommend around every 3 months, or 7500 miles. When the ground is dry or hard I do it--no heated garage .

Questions though, for you mechanics: why are the oil filters engineered UPSIDE DOWN ?

HOW DO YOU CHANGE FILTERS WITHOUT HOT OIL RUNNING DOWN YOUR ARM ?

Bandmill Bandit · « **Reply #44 on:** March 04, 2012, 05:49:48 pm »

Depends on the vehicle/ implement.

Where possible I get the filter just loose enough to give it a "snap twist" and let it spin off into an EMPTY pan. Even this is hit and miss proposition.

The rest? welllll. We are still cuss em out every time we have to do them.

I'll take the old straight 6 engines any day. You can do those filter from the top or side most of the time. A lot of the older Fords had the filters screwed on side ways once the spin on filters arrived on the scene. Most were accessible through a hole in the cross member but the problem with more than a few of those was the oil ran down on the frame cross member.

No matter how you slice it filter changes are a pain as a rule.

beenthere · « **Reply #45 on:** March 04, 2012, 07:22:34 pm »

How would downeast engineer them?

downeast · « **Reply #46 on:** March 04, 2012, 09:06:09 pm »

Quote from: beenthere on March 04, 2012, 07:22:34 pm

How would downeast engineer them?

No engineer here BUTT there must be a better solution than an upside down oil filter. There's little enough they give us to do anymore on engines. Oil/filter is at least the one brainless thing an owner can easily do. Ideas ? Design the filter "right side UP"; it's pressured anyhow, so why upside down ? My K.I.S.S. solutions are a dedicated oil change jacket with dedicated oil change gloves. Or, rotate the filter off inside a plastic WallieWorld bag ( melts easily and is awkward). Neither work well.

Remember, we here in Downeast Maine don't have lifts in heated garages. Oh woe.

With all the millions spent on useless dashboard computers and cup holders ( how many sir ?) , how about some thought to solving the owner's oil filter PITA ?

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #47 on:** March 08, 2012, 07:54:06 am »

How to keep oil or worse diesel from running down your arm, no good way.I tie a rag around my wrist and that stops most of it. Frank C.

downeast · « **Reply #48 on:** March 08, 2012, 08:08:39 pm »

There has GOT to be a better design than upside down oil filters accessed from UNDER the vehicle. Got to be.... with dashboard computers, cup holders up the wazoo, full dashboard computer screens, rear view cameras, auto dimming mirrors, and other useless doodads, why not a friendly filter ?

So I asked friends who run logging gear how they do hydraulics and engines: same problems--engineers design machines for themselves not for users. For example: ALL hydraulic lines in a Finnish feller/buncher are black. Why ? Trying to follow a line for a blowout is a PITA in the field. Yes, the oil, engine or hydraulic, does get all over their clothes. Only "trick" : latex gloves and rags. That's kind of 19th century.

beenthere · « **Reply #49 on:** March 08, 2012, 08:18:55 pm »

This is really buggin you

You may not remember the days when oil filters were in a can on top of the engine. Easy to get at, and just remove the top and drop in another cartridge.
I suspect the filters low and on the side of the engines are there for how well they function.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #50 on:** March 08, 2012, 08:59:06 pm »

There is absolutly no effort by manuf. to make a mechanics life easier,thats why good ones are hard to find and want decent pay,the job suxs. Frank C.

Bandmill Bandit · « **Reply #51 on:** March 08, 2012, 10:54:15 pm »

Quote from: bandmiller2 on March 08, 2012, 08:59:06 pm

There is absolutly no effort by manuf. to make a mechanics life easier,thats why good ones are hard to find and want decent pay,the job suxs. Frank C.

The biggest reason I quit pulling wrenches. Takes 2 hours to get all the crap and stupidity out of the way so you can even see the darn engine.

How do you justify 4 hours of shop time just to get to a 30 minute job?

I used to enjoy it. Now its a cussing job even to change spark plugs on most of them.

I had a 69 MachI Mustang with the 429 Cobra with headers that was easier to work on than most models to day and that things was real bitch to get at any thing. I would take that thing over almost any of todays models.

downeast · « **Reply #52 on:** March 12, 2012, 09:39:27 am »

Quote from: beenthere on March 08, 2012, 08:18:55 pm

This is really buggin you
You may not remember the days when oil filters were in a can on top of the engine. Easy to get at, and just remove the top and drop in another cartridge.
I suspect the filters low and on the side of the engines are there for how well they function.

Sure is !

There is NO mechanical reason for designing the oil filter up, sideways, down, or a PITA to access.....NONE. The flow is highly pressurized; gravity ain't a factor.

Yes, I did change filters when they were available FROM THE TOP OF THE ENGINE

. Anyone remember the great slant six engines ? Or when you could actually change plugs, distributors, points, and time the beasts. ( Long ago Triumph bike ). Now, I got to get on the ground, raise the car on ramps, either remove the "protective" cover ( why, oh why ? ), or wait for the pipes to cool some before reaching up between the headers just to remove the filter ( Subarus ). All we can do is change the oil and filter. Woe.
Tricks of the pros to do this ?

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #53 on:** March 12, 2012, 10:09:57 am »

I change my oils at 5000 miles, easy to remember.

Oil filters, I have a couple of large pices of cardboard down, empty oil pan, spin filter part way off and let it drip while I pull the drain plug, use a rag or wad of paper towels and spin filter the rest of the way off. It takes me 15 minutes to change my oils and it doesn't run down my arm.

My 06' 6.0 pickup, 51' ford pickup, 52' ford 8N and 54' Ferguson all use the drop in oil filters. Love them and wish they all were.

SPIKER · « **Reply #54 on:** March 12, 2012, 08:50:57 pm »

Gas/Oil/Fuel running down your arm, there are some Heavy Chemical resistant gloves that have a Cuff (looks like a cup) built in that cups back towards your hand. the CUP actually catches oil in it and keeps it there. WISH they had something like that when I was in the Military doing Aircraft Hydraulic Filters... Still have some PINK (were white) underwear (shirts and tightie whities) from working waste deep inside a wing spar. worst was working Alert Bomber/Tankers on the pad middle of winter in Kansas wind always blowing -40 temps wind chill working in a hole that you had to pull off your coat just to get into the hole. get to the leak (usually uphill from the hole.) all of the frozen hyd. fluid running down your arms into your arm pits and down you side into your underware and often leaking down onto your pants & into the boots... bbrrr still remember that all for about 900 bucks a month!

Mark

downeast · « **Reply #55 on:** March 14, 2012, 09:26:06 am »

Final call to all engine engineers:

1. Design said oil filter(s) for access FROM THE TOP OF THE ENGINE.
2. Design oil filter placement in a "drop down" or facing DOWN position attitude.
3. Design so that Joe Vehicle Owner can easily change the oil filter. ( Not much else we can do today ! )
4. Focus group use: LISTEN to owners who pay your big bucks.

With the tight tolerances and high pressured flow in present engines, THERE IS NO REASON NOT TO DO AS ABOVE.

Yes, I am bugged thank you. It is understood why the oil drain plug is located where it is --at the lowest point of the pan. Simple gravity.
Please change the oil filter location and attitude.

Thank you......"thankyou very much" ( E. Presley )

downeast · « **Reply #56 on:** March 16, 2012, 09:05:10 am »

OK, the reality is that the engineers are not going to change placement and access of engine oil filters. Here's what Google found for me :

1. Tie a rag around the filter before spinning it completely off to catch drippings.

2. Punch a hole in the filter carefully on the upper end to relieve pressure before removing the filter.

3. Get Spiker's official U.S. Air Force "inverted cuffed glove". ( Sources for civilians ? ).

4. Pay $$$ to the dealer for an oil change...let them deal with the mess.

5. First bag the filter ( hot oil will melt plastics ), unscrewing it while inside a baggie or WalMart bag to contain splilled oil. ( This is one I will try next time. )

Other bright ideas are welcome.

Paul_H · « **Reply #57 on:** March 16, 2012, 11:14:16 am »

Flip the car over,climb up,reach down change filter and roll car back onto tires.

thecfarm · « **Reply #58 on:** March 16, 2012, 11:22:09 am »

I've seen that done in junk yards to get a tranny out.

downeast · « **Reply #59 on:** March 16, 2012, 04:46:35 pm »

Quote from: Paul_H on March 16, 2012, 11:14:16 am

Flip the car over,climb up,reach down change filter and roll car back onto tires.

Paul_H · « **Reply #60 on:** March 16, 2012, 04:57:02 pm »

Quote from: downeast on March 16, 2012, 04:46:35 pm

downeast · « **Reply #61 on:** March 16, 2012, 07:49:33 pm »

Quote from: Paul_H on March 16, 2012, 04:57:02 pm

Quote from: downeast on March 16, 2012, 04:46:35 pm

Paul_H · « **Reply #62 on:** March 16, 2012, 08:12:26 pm »

If all you have to worry about in life is a filter change,you are doing well

It could be that you need the distraction after a long winter.It's hard to tell if you are serious or lighthearted in your quest so I am going to go with lighthearted and suggest you roll the car for any future repairs.

Your filter rant reminds me of a Andy Rooney segment on 60 minutes

SPIKER · « **Reply #63 on:** March 16, 2012, 10:59:56 pm »

Those Gloves with the Cup Cuff built in are kind of new, never used them back in Military, WISH I had them then though...

I HAVE used the Wallymart Bag over the filter after it was broke free slightly to help catch some of the oil. also done the nail punch hole into bottom of filter to drain it. no need to loosen the thing just punch a hole and open the oil fill hole or slip out dip stick some..

pulled the trans out of a wrecked t-bird that way tipped it up on its side (which was well flattened by high speed pickup dead center between the wheels.) Used tractor under rocker on good side and tipped it up had a chain wrapped around roof to keep it from going all way over. sat down on roof @ door window opening on 2stacked 6x6s whit FEL and 4x4s wedged under up under it. all left under there now is the independent rear end

Mark

downeast · « **Reply #64 on:** March 18, 2012, 05:00:51 pm »

Quote from: Paul_H on March 16, 2012, 08:12:26 pm

If all you have to worry about in life is a filter change,you are doing well
It could be that you need the distraction after a long winter.It's hard to tell if you are serious or lighthearted in your quest so I am going to go with lighthearted and suggest you roll the car for any future repairs.

Your filter rant reminds me of a Andy Rooney segment on 60 minutes

Half and half serious and light Paul.....miss the Andy Rooney rants however. He'd hit things that were in the back of our minds.

March is called the Suicide Month here; time for drinks

: long winter, usually heavy snow and cold, dark days. Not this year.

Rolling the car is a no-go.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #65 on:** March 18, 2012, 10:13:21 pm »

Bet the blackflies will be thick enough to choke jet engines this year. Frank C.

downeast · « **Reply #66 on:** March 19, 2012, 03:01:20 pm »

Quote from: bandmiller2 on March 18, 2012, 10:13:21 pm

Bet the blackflies will be thick enough to choke jet engines this year. Frank C.

Black flies will be sure to obstruct the late Spring oil change here. Oh woe.....

Then again, since there was little snow or rain, the tiny critters may, just may, leave life alone this year if you're not a moose.

CTYank · « **Reply #67 on:** March 20, 2012, 12:24:51 am »

FoMoCo sez my 2.25L Ranger needs oil change every 6 mo. or 7000 mi. Gave it its first change at 12 mo/6500. Of course, I don't use their oil- rather M1 full synthetic. (Oil was just starting to show some tinting.)

Previous Nissan 2.4L got regular change of M1 @ 20-25K. No engine lube probs to 430K mi, when many pieces were used up. (Not the engine.)

Too bad used motor oil can't generally be collected conveniently for recycling to better than new.

Bandmill Bandit · « **Reply #68 on:** March 20, 2012, 11:54:29 am »

In the 60s and 70s Texas Refinery Corp used the take our used oil and Reman it. They are still selling top quality oil products but I aM not sure if the still take back the used oil for reman or not.

LeeB · « **Reply #69 on:** March 21, 2012, 09:40:21 am »

You can take your used oil to any oil change place and they will take it. It still gets recycled.

downeast · « **Reply #70 on:** March 22, 2012, 08:20:42 pm »

Quote from: LeeB on March 21, 2012, 09:40:21 am

You can take your used oil to any oil change place and they will take it. It still gets recycled.

Right Lee. Many garages large and small here use used (

) oil for heat in filtered oil furnaces. Our dumps a.k.a. "recycling centers" take used oil for re-use. Why not ? Most non-nuke merchant ships burn #2 oil : so thick that in cold regions it needs to be heated before running.

P.S. I stihl don't have the ideal solution to changing an upside down oil filter.

Stephen1 · « **Reply #71 on:** May 01, 2012, 12:53:56 pm »

I change mine at 10,000 miles. calls for 5,000. I was amazed to find in european cars they call for 15-20k miles, for oil changes, Are there motors any different , I don't think so, I believe the car makers are owned by the oil companies,"conspiracy theory"

so the get us to change our oil more. .
My wife in 2001 bought a Saturn Vue with the Cadillac caterra engine out of Germany, they put it only that 1 year. They have a light sensor that the oil passes thru which tells you when to change the oil. The 1st oil change was 14,000 miles, the service advisor was mad at my wife for waiting so long until she showed him the manual, and even then he hummed a bit

. the car is still going , 200,000 miles, my daughter drives it, in northern Quebec, cold weather short drives in the winter to work, all very hard on the engine, yet still 10-12 k for an oli change. In fact I just tell her to change it twice a year spring and fall, as she really doesn't drive that many miles a year. Oil does not go bad, that is why Amsoil rates theirs for 25,000 miles with an in between oil change, filtering is the big thing getting the contaminates out. You can buy a filtration system that you never change the oil, just check for metal in the oil and change the filter 1nce a year. The locomotives that I run, I was told do that, oil stays in and they change filters and test it 4 times a year.

beenthere · « **Reply #72 on:** May 01, 2012, 02:24:28 pm »

My 2009 Chev Trailblazer is like 10,000 mile recommended change.
I do it every 5-10k....

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Author Topic: 3000 or 6000 mile Oil Change (Read 3330 times)