WM-LT40HD Wavey cuts?

[pineywoods]

I can usually fix blades with this problem. Usually is 1 or more teeth with way more set than the rest. Most setters won't fix an over-set tooth, just find the offending tooth, hammer it flat on a smooth surface and then reset. Sometimes finding the offending tooth isn't easy, but here's an easy way. Clamp an adjustable wrench (cresent wrench for us southerners) so it fits loosely over the blade and tip of a good tooth. Then slide the wrench along the blade. The bad tooth will not clear the wrench.

[Jim_Rogers]

First of all that mark on the board is from at least one probably more teeth that are bent in towards being straight up, lack of set. If it was a groove it would be that they are bend out, too much set.
As mentioned probably from hitting something like a rock in the bark or metal in the log/board. If the hump is only on one side of the board then it is only on one side of the blade.
If you're sharpening and setting yourself you'll find it when you re-sharpen your band.
If you're sending it out to WM Resharp then turn the blade inside out so that they'll know there is something up with that blade. And they'll look closely at it and maybe able to save it.
If it's bad they'll junk it and you can have them replace it for you.

Inspecting your lumber you should be able to see where it started and maybe find the rock on the edge of the board. Or the nail in the board.
If it's a nail in the board you'd better pull it out or someone who buys your lumber will not be happy if they hit it with their planer.

Good luck with your problem.

Jim Rogers

[Magicman]

I always hang a tag on my blades going to WM Reharp when something has happened to them.  I will describe what happened or what they are doing.  I like to help the helper.   

[John Bartley]

Those boards that come out with "ziggers" across them go on the free pile when I'm sawing.

"Ziggers" I take it are the lines across the boards as shown in the OP's photos's? If so, I wouldn't discount them at all. As long as they're straight, they should be well within spec's for surface finishing. This is "rough" cutting we're doing, and those boards ought to surface finish just fine! The marks show, but they're not usually too deep.

cheers

John

[MotorSeven]

"Those boards that come out with "ziggers" across them go on the free pile when I'm sawing."

Your way missing out...those should be in a special covered pile marked "Premium Antiqued Sawmill Scroll" boards....$4 a bf.

[WDH]

Some people really like the look of the sawmarks of an out-of-set tooth on bandsawn lumber.  I have had people ask for it  .

[bandmiller2]

When I see that pattern I seek out the offending tooth/teeth and use a small "crescent wrench" to bend it back.I take a small piece of sticken and run it along a stopped band agenst the teeth, if you got the feel you'll know when you hit a high tooth. Usally the high teeth are from hitting something and the band should be resharpened. Frank C.

[paul case]

I guess if the bent tooth was making marks on the cant you could let the blade down just against the cant and turn the blade by hand to find the offender!


PC

[Magicman]

Paul, on my sawmill, the blade brake is applied when the clutch is disengaged.  It would really take two people to manually turn the bandwheel by hand.

[Chuck White]

Paul, on my sawmill, the blade brake is applied when the clutch is disengaged.  It would really take two people to manually turn the bandwheel by hand.

MM, I've just pulled the handle about half way and placed a chunk of wood between the handle and the frame, works pretty good.

[Peter Drouin]

I just put the clutch 1/2 way on ( with the motor off) and the blade will run free. I do that with the outo clutch when I change the blade by turning the toggle up then hit the key   for a second , I like to spin the blade a little when im tightening it

[petefrombearswamp]

Thanks Peter,
I have wondered about that and in my simple mind couldn't figure out how to do it.
Pete

[terrifictimbersllc]

Ought to be able to put a magnetic base dial indicator on the rail and turn the band backwards by hand too.  Sounds like a good way to ruin a nice one too. 

[paul case]

ooops! sorry about that.
The ez boardwalk mill doesn't have a band brake, but my ''new to me'' lt40 does. I just didn't think of that one. PC

[Peter Drouin]

petefrombearsswamp make sure you let the auto start cycle all the way up then back down with the key on . then start the cat .one time I forgot to do that and the cat started full throttle  I only did that one time, I all most had a heart attack

[kderby]

You guys are the bestest. 

I have learned the word "Zigger" and several alternatives for my damaged blades.

I use ReSharp and the "attach a note" idea seems reasonable.  I am so focused on production that working on a blade with a damaged tooth is just time spent not money saved.  That is the same logic I apply to ReSharp doing my sharpening.  I do not have the facility, nor do I want to spend my time becoming a blade wizard.  They do it for me.  Someday I'll step up to doing it my self.  Up to now, zigger lines meant the blade was a goner.

Are zigger, bestest and goner real words?    Thanks Ya'lll

kderby

[JD350Cmark]

  photos of the wavey redwood.

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.) 

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.) f wavey cuts

Peder,

I have cut Redwood and have experienced this finish.  I'll agree that it's something to do with a bad blade.  Do you know what type of blades you are using?  This finish is good for deck boards if you don't mind something a bit rough and it's less slippery.

[nomad]

     I got a box of blades a week or so ago.  I've been through all of 'em already; lots of sand in the bark.  About half of 'em had a tooth, or two, or three way overset.  I'll have to find the problem teeth and bend them back before I set and sharpen these bands.