Author Topic: got a 208d tj, have some questions (Read 962 times)

Sunrise Farms · « **on:** January 02, 2012, 11:30:11 am »

Hey guys,
I just bought a 78 208d tj and got it home yesterday. The tires see pretty much junk and the paint is horrible, but the 353 runs awesome and the tranny was just rebuilt

Been fooling around with it trying to figure it out some. the thing I can't really figure out is the winch. is the winch pto supposed to turn anytime the clutch is out and the tranny is in gear, not just when the transfer case is in neutral?
I can power it in, and it works great, but can't figure out how to freespool. I can power in and out. Also, when I power it in then want to stop I release the lever but it still comes in a little so I have to cut the power with the clutch to keep the whole mess from coming over the arch.

Anyway, that's about it for now but im sure il have some more questions

Jordan

jocco · « **Reply #1 on:** January 02, 2012, 01:09:58 pm »

Assuming you have timberjack eaton herqules winch: The third lever over when pushed forward will power in (with tranny in gear reverser in forward and transfer in netral) When dropped to the center it will put the brake on and all should stop. Pull it back to the seat it should lock there and the winch will freespool. Your machine could be set up different oR THERE IS SOMETHING TERIBLY WRONG ON THE WINCH OR VALVE AND $3000 WILL FIX IT.

yOU MAY HAVE SOME ISSUES WITH THE BRAKE BAND OR A SIEZED UP BEARING IN IT.

jocco · « **Reply #2 on:** January 02, 2012, 01:12:03 pm »

yES ON THE SAFT TURNING IF TRANNY IN GEAR THERE SHOULD BE A SMALL LEVER ON THE TRANSFER TO TAKE IT OUT OF GEAR

Sunrise Farms · « **Reply #3 on:** January 02, 2012, 01:14:54 pm »

Ok, I see. My lever doesnt seem to lock into the winch out position. If I sit and hold it though it just keeps unraveling and makes a mess

Digger167 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 02, 2012, 03:52:34 pm »

Had the same problem on my 22d timberjack what it was with mine it had sat a while . what i did is hooked to a tree on a hill and let the weight of the machine fee spool it out did this a bunch of times to get the dust out of the brakes then adjusted the brake band on the winch by the two set scews going through the angle iron on the top and bottom of the frame holding the winch. I was told years ago to cut a small peice of wood and go from small rod abovethe lever to hold the lever in the fee spool position maybe this will help

Sunrise Farms · « **Reply #5 on:** January 02, 2012, 04:09:59 pm »

I played with it some and I think the winch is fine, its just the lever doesn't stick into out, it just pops back like the others. With the machine off I can hear a click which the others don't make. I can put a bungee on it and get out to pull the cable.

Any one know how much this machine weighs? I thought I was told a 225 weighed 13,000, so I'd think about the same

what about a part number for the oil filter? Its leaking some oil between the steel cover and the housing.

madmari · « **Reply #6 on:** January 02, 2012, 04:25:31 pm »

You may have to adjust the brake on the winch hydraulic piston. On the bottom of the piston you will see two nuts, one to adjust and one to lock. Sounds like the piston travel is short, not allowing the valve lever to stay down.
If the 208 has set awile, hook up to a tree and drive ahead in free spool. Put the transfer case in neutral and winch yourself back. Do it a few times, see if it helps.
We have a 208, 1978 model also. Nice little rig- you'll like it.

timbuck2 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 02, 2012, 06:21:44 pm »

If it's a 2 stick (old style) the winch works both ways, that would be the reverser box is in front of the tranny. Later they used a better t-case with reverse in that. My 208-E is like that. Anyway take the side cover off the brake band side of the winch. Then you should be able to see if rust and debris are a problem. Sometimes the brake band itself gets out of round and binds the drum in one spot. Take an iron bar and pry it out. Set your jamb nut on the hyd. cyl. at 10 or 11 threads showing for starters. Does your control valve detent properly on freespool? Good luck, one of the cheapest skidders to run, when not in use I keep mine in the barn covered up with a blanket!!! oH yeah, that bit I posted about having two size tires on a sidehill was just a gag. Not many fell for it. Happy New Year, and may you all get "wall to wall and treetop tall".

Sunrise Farms · « **Reply #8 on:** January 03, 2012, 08:33:59 am »

I'll have to play with the winch a little more to get it perfect. As far a driving the machine, the winch pto is always spinning? Seems like a lot of extra wear on the u-joints..

How about the oil filter and the seal?

OntarioAl · « **Reply #9 on:** January 03, 2012, 09:58:43 am »

I have a TJ 230 for over 25 years, and it is a very economical machine to operate.
When in operation always (when you are stopped and engine running blade down brake set) leave the main transmision in neurtal and the transfer case in gear. This stops the winch drive PTO from turning it also saves wear on the upper transfer case bearings and gears as the lubrication is carried up by the action of the gear train as you drive along . I add a Amsoil after market product to the lube helps keep a film of oil on all moving parts.
I would also put a magnetic plug in the transfer case drain.
As for wear on the winch drive shaft a good quality grease applied regularly is your friend I have skidded thousands of cords of wood and have yet to replace any of the winch drive lineparts.
Hope this helps
Al

jocco · « **Reply #10 on:** January 03, 2012, 12:15:10 pm »

Ontario those 230's were good machins wern't they!!! Stabile and reliable.

timbuck2 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 03, 2012, 12:25:10 pm »

Spotted a cherry 207d for sale last weekend, I don't have anything to do with it but it was clean, straight and original. Kind of a blast from the past. Being from Lancaster, which was Timberland's #1 TJ dealer for years I somehow notice all things Orange.

Ed_K · « **Reply #12 on:** January 03, 2012, 03:11:21 pm »

Sunrise Farm,how's the forwarder running?

Sunrise Farms · « **Reply #13 on:** January 06, 2012, 07:53:45 am »

She runs well, but havent had a whole lot of time to use her. A little bulky in the Woods. I can yard everything up with this 208 and haul it all out with the forwarder. Should work prety slick. Just need to find more time

Sunrise Farms · « **Reply #14 on:** January 08, 2012, 05:53:33 pm »

So I have a question about the brakes now. They were sticking, but I was hoping a little use would free them up, but not the case. So I took the winch off to get at everything. I took the castle nut kinda thing off and the Four nuts but cant get the drum off. Pounding the outside of the drum just bends the backing plate out. It was getting pretty dark so I gave up for the night. What should I do to get it off? Is there anything im missing?

a old timberjack · « **Reply #15 on:** January 08, 2012, 06:05:47 pm »

is your cam adjuster backed off?? on the back of the backing plate its the bolt with the spring. thats easy, i just took my winch apart last nite, cable would pull out 1 ft. then bind up, i been having to power out, after alot of heat, homemade pullers, and coors lite

found out that it was a drum bearing wich spun and wore into the main shaft causing the drum to run cocked, 1,000.00 later i should be back in the woods.

Sunrise Farms · « **Reply #16 on:** January 08, 2012, 07:46:51 pm »

Mm, I might not have been clear but I meant the regular foot brakes on the back of the transfer case, I just took the winch off so I could get at it

jocco · « **Reply #17 on:** January 08, 2012, 08:40:21 pm »

Yes two bolts to adjust shoes if its like any i have dealt with the big castle nut should do it for the drum. Could it be fluid not returning to cylinder? bad springs? Ridge on drum?

jocco · « **Reply #18 on:** January 08, 2012, 08:42:48 pm »

Quote from: a old timberjack on January 08, 2012, 06:05:47 pm

is your cam adjuster backed off?? on the back of the backing plate its the bolt with the spring. thats easy, i just took my winch apart last nite, cable would pull out 1 ft. then bind up, i been having to power out, after alot of heat, homemade pullers, and coors lite found out that it was a drum bearing wich spun and wore into the main shaft causing the drum to run cocked, 1,000.00 later i should be back in the woods.

Don't want to ruin your party but last one of those winches run $2500 sems like every part on it needed rebuild.

Sunrise Farms · « **Reply #19 on:** January 08, 2012, 09:51:41 pm »

Umm, the winch works fine now, just needed to know how to use it properly.

as far as the brakes, I adjusted the brakes and its still stuck. I opened up the bleeder to release any pressure if tgere was any

jocco · « **Reply #20 on:** January 09, 2012, 06:55:13 am »

Bottom line you got to get the drum off. Could be a failed shoe binding up? broken spring or retainer? If opening the bleed did not release it, its not a dirty master cyl etc.

Sunrise Farms · « **Reply #21 on:** January 09, 2012, 05:28:01 pm »

My guess is that it was parked with the micro lock on for a while and the hinge part of the shoe rusted together so they arent returning when the pressure is off

Is it going to cause any damage to drive it around some and hope that it works loose?
How about driving it untill the pads wear out enough?

Sunrise Farms · « **Reply #22 on:** January 12, 2012, 06:12:28 pm »

So I got it apart. It seems to just be missing the return spring. The cylinder seemed a little sticky. Those two and some brake clean should get me back together.

Does anyone know if that drum brake setup is from any common truck? Id rather go to my local gut to get it than call Nash and wait for it to ship, and pay shipping...

bushmechanic · « **Reply #23 on:** January 13, 2012, 06:55:54 pm »

Hey Sunrise farms congrats on the 208,that is a really nice machine.The brakes are a sore point ,rarely do they work properly.In order to get the brake drum off you will probally have to back the shoes off,the shoes usually wear a groove in the drum and makes it impossible to get it apart.There are nuts on the backing plate which work as a cam system to move the shoes out against the drum for adjustment,release those and you drum should come off.Check to see if there is any oil on the shoes,if so replace the oil seal.If the shoes are not sticking upon operation then I think your problem may be in your master cylinder or a kinked line.Good luck.

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Author Topic: got a 208d tj, have some questions (Read 962 times)