Author Topic: ideas for an engine for a band sawmill (Read 1348 times)

stephen breen · « **on:** December 27, 2011, 11:09:11 pm »

I am very new to sawing logs and i am wanting to build a band sawmill to build a small barn and other projects around the house. i would like to saw pine and oak. i have come across a couple of 5 hp gocart engines i was thinking i would use one of them. any sugestions? im a sheetmetal worker by trade so the metal and iron work will not be a problem i am just looking for something to power the mill that will not cost to much.

POSTONLT40HD · « **Reply #1 on:** December 27, 2011, 11:19:47 pm »

Welcome to the Forum Stephen.

Great post. You'll get a lot of help on your question here.

There's a lot of talent on the Forestry Forum.

Good-Luck!

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 28, 2011, 06:58:31 am »

Stephen welcome,5hp is not enough to do any real milling.An electric motor is hard to beat a 5 hp electric would do the job,be quiet and easy to build a roof over.If your a carefull workman you can build a good functional mill it won't be cheap but cheaper.Even better is finding a used mill. Frank C.

learydeere · « **Reply #3 on:** December 28, 2011, 07:15:53 am »

One of the mills i have is a hudson with a 10hp briggs and that is way under powered. My woodmizer has a 24hp onan and that seems to do the trick. I would look for a small diesel out of a reefer truck some of the smaller ones are around 25-30 hp

Blaszer · « **Reply #4 on:** December 28, 2011, 09:18:33 am »

This is the saw I built over the summer... It has a 16 horse Kohler with electric start and electric clutch...since the pics, I added a water system for the blade....

Chuck White · « **Reply #5 on:** December 28, 2011, 09:30:05 am »

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Stephen and Blaszer.

I'm with Frank on this one, try and find a used mill.

I feel you would be money ahead to try to find a used LT10 or LT15, or other brands similar in size and price range of these two mills.

I don't think there would be a significant difference between buying one of the mills (used) mentioned, and the cost incurred running around and finding the parts and material to build a mill.

Good luck;

Bill Gaiche · « **Reply #6 on:** December 28, 2011, 10:31:27 am »

Welcome. 5hp isnt enough engine to do any sawing with good results. 10hp will work 15hp better and will do a pretty good job. It takes a decent engine to pull a bandsaw blade. I have a 14hp and it does me ok for I just do sawing for my own projects. Finding a used lt10 or 15 might be a better way to go. Buying all the metal to build a mill is not that cheap unless you have acess to some. If you still desire to build your own which I did may be for your own satisfaction and pride. Look around your area and see if you can find a good used engine. That might save you some money. Go look at a band mill and take notes of how its built then go from there. Look in the photo gallery and you will see mills built at home that work very good. There are some good ideas there that may be helpful to you. Good luck, bg

ahlkey · « **Reply #7 on:** December 28, 2011, 11:19:40 am »

I worked for a small engine manufacturer for 10 years and with a 5HP motor you would not be happy with it on a bandsaw mill. I have a 23HP Vanguard from B & S which does a good job but if you had to go smaller I would suggest a 13HP engine like the GX series from Honda or similar models from other manufacturers. I agree if you can find a good used model that would be the way to go.

mad murdock · « **Reply #8 on:** December 28, 2011, 12:10:49 pm »

Welcome to the forestry forum Stephen. Spend some time reading some of the threads on here about building your own mill. A lot of guys on here have done it. Whether you build, buy used, or buy new, one thing you will be glad you did, when you get into milling is going after the most h.p. you can afford. Milling softwoods can be done "ok" on less power, but when you start chewing on oak or other hardwoods you will want all the poweryou can get, IMHO.
Blazer yer home built mill looks pretty nice! Good job

JFarmer · « **Reply #9 on:** December 28, 2011, 07:57:08 pm »

Go electric! I recently converted my LT40 from a kubota diesel to 25hp electric. The electric is quieter and a whole lot cheaper to operate and maintain. With electric you dont have oil changes, filters, and all of that stuff to buy. Mine will now saw circles around the diesel any day. Hope this helps and good luck!

mikeb1079 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 28, 2011, 08:30:04 pm »

i also built a bandsaw mill this summer and i say build one! yes it's alot of time and work but if you have the time and don't have the 3k minimum to buy one you should build. i too would vote for at least 10hp or better. mine has a 16 and it's perfect for my mill. i've maxed out the mill at 24" cutting half dry elm and it was fine, but i'm glad i didn't go much smaller.
good luck

357blacksmith · « **Reply #11 on:** December 28, 2011, 09:48:09 pm »

My Logmaster LM1 came standard with a 13 hp engine. I have pushed it through some pretty big logs. It performs great on green pine. Aged oak and a blade with few miles on it will start to take the fun out of it. I would keep an eye out for a good used motor with a min of 10hp depending on the diameter of logs you plan on sawing. Down here people over load their generators during power outages and are left with a nice motor attached to a burnt electronic device. Good luck.

shelbycharger400 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 28, 2011, 09:59:24 pm »

im running a 12.5 hp briggs on my chain bar slabber with a 36 in chain , 6 inch electric clutch. it cuts 12 inch dia logs, i definatly recomend that you go larger than that , im planning on upgrading to a 20 hp myself.
i bought my 12.5hp for 150 bux, 20hp motors run 200-300 used. you can find mowers with them on it for that price too.

pineywoods · « **Reply #13 on:** December 28, 2011, 10:07:13 pm »

re : generator engines. There is a problem with using generator motors. The crankshaft stubb is tapered and does not have a key slot, kinda hard to put a pulley on it. A centrifugal clutch off a golf cart will fit on the shaft with a little lapping compound. Look around for a lawn mower graveyard..

r.man · « **Reply #14 on:** December 28, 2011, 10:14:04 pm »

Two suggestions, build the saw and put on the biggest engine that you have access to even if it is the 5 hp, and secondly I have read a post by someone that said you could get pulleys that are made to fit on tapered generator style shafts.

Banjo picker · « **Reply #15 on:** December 29, 2011, 12:26:59 am »

The spray trucks we run at work use Yanmar diesels. I think they make their own fuel.

If my Perkins/Cat engine goes out I will give them a hard look. Banjo

Slingshot · « **Reply #16 on:** December 29, 2011, 10:47:00 am »

Maybe this one would be big enough for you guys to run a home-built band saw??

___________________________

Bill Gaiche · « **Reply #17 on:** December 29, 2011, 08:33:38 pm »

Do you think that would work for a portable mill? bg

fishpharmer · « **Reply #18 on:** December 29, 2011, 09:41:35 pm »

Stephen Breen and Blaszer welcome to FF!

This is the place to learn how to build your own sawmill. FF helped me build one. You can see some of the details in my early posts. Many other other members have homemade mills as well. That search button up near top of the page has helped me out many times. Stephen, if all I had was a 5 hp engine I certainly wouldn't let that stop me from building a sawmill. Build the engine mounts large and strong enough for a larger power source to be added later.

Blaszer, neat mill how did you come up with your design? Looks like it works good.

I started out with the William (Bill) Rake Simple Sawmill Plans. I don't believe they are available any longer as his website is gone. However, here is a link to a fella that has built a mill using those plans...

http://kruppt.tripod.com/

Good luck and ask lots of questions.

shelbycharger400 · « **Reply #19 on:** December 29, 2011, 10:08:55 pm »

slingshot...
that motor runs about 400 rpm, but has GOBS of torque. darn near direct drive it on a circle mill

Slingshot · « **Reply #20 on:** December 29, 2011, 10:43:30 pm »

I just happened to run across it on U-tube and thought it was quite a monster.
Kinda wonder what it might be used for.

__________________
charles

JD350Cmark · « **Reply #21 on:** December 29, 2011, 11:44:25 pm »

Quote from: Slingshot on December 29, 2011, 10:47:00 am

Maybe this one would be big enough for you guys to run a home-built band saw??

___________________________

Could that be Bill Warren setting up for those logs lost at sea?

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,1165.0.html

Blaszer · « **Reply #22 on:** December 30, 2011, 08:29:37 am »

This is actually my 2nd mill.....The first one was a 2 post design that raised and lowered by threaded rod on each post with #60 chain joining them together to synch them....The first one had a smaller motor on it...(either 6 or

....Trial and error played big parts in the design....I had a good supply of steel , so screw ups and redoes were not a big deal...I have a 1 1/2 ton truck crane (electric winch, would mount to floor of truck and have 7' of reach) It will be mounted on the new trailer mounted frame rail to aid in loading and flipping logs...

iffy · « **Reply #23 on:** December 30, 2011, 09:18:51 am »

If you are still wanting to build your own, don't discount the various options available from Linn Lumber. You can buy everything from a single part to a kit to a complete head. If you buy the stuff that's hard to get locally and do some judicious shopping for the local stuff, you can get in to a mill pretty reasonable. I bought a kit for the 19" head and I think I have about 1700 in it. Of course, it is still setting in my shop partially assembled, but since this is my retirement day, hopefully the mill will be running in the near future.

Blaszer · « **Reply #24 on:** December 30, 2011, 09:44:43 am »

I'm not sure why I try to type 8 and a smilie appears.......

beenthere · « **Reply #25 on:** December 30, 2011, 11:25:03 am »

Quote from: Blaszer on December 30, 2011, 09:44:43 am

I'm not sure why I try to type 8 and a smilie appears.......

Put an 8 with a closing parens next to it, and you get

.
Put a space after the 8 and before the parens will get you 8 )
Clicking on "preview" before "post" will give you the chance to make the correction.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #26 on:** December 31, 2011, 07:29:00 am »

I can't see any reason a simple bandsaw couldn't use wood for ways,especially a stationary mill. Build a good heavy duty sawhead and run it on wood with a steel strip screwed down,as long as you want. Frank C.

Hilltop366 · « **Reply #27 on:** January 01, 2012, 02:15:47 pm »

Quote from: bandmiller2 on December 31, 2011, 07:29:00 am

I can't see any reason a simple bandsaw couldn't use wood for ways,especially a stationary mill. Build a good heavy duty sawhead and run it on wood with a steel strip screwed down,as long as you want. Frank C.

Like this one (looks like a Norwood with really long wood extension) cutting some wood for the Bluenose II rebuild project in Luneburg Nova Scotia.

shelbycharger400 · « **Reply #28 on:** January 01, 2012, 02:28:26 pm »

biggest problem with stationary mills here, in the frozen tundra, is warpage and frost heves. this is partially why my belsaw mill isnt back up and running, it has 2x10's that were doubled up and staged on both sides. heaver than u know what when i cut it in half. Im waiting til i have a few hundred to buy a trailer house frame.

Magicman · « **Reply #29 on:** January 01, 2012, 03:24:23 pm »

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, stephen breen.

News:

Author Topic: ideas for an engine for a band sawmill (Read 1348 times)