Found something odd on my LT35 today,

[petefrombearswamp]

Chuck,
Looks like metal on my lt40, and thought so on my old mill (which is yours now.)
I am going to check this tomorrow if it doesn't snow too hard.Weather is calling for snow all week.
Oh well we have dodged the bullet so far.
My manual says 1/16"
Pete

[YellowHammer]

I just pulled it from the saw to check it a couple minutes ago, its definately metal, I checked it with a file and a magnet.  I wonder if I shouldn't replace it with a nylon one, that sounds like a good idea.... 
YH

[MartyParsons]

Hello,
The picture is a 3/8 bolt or better yet allen bolt with lock nut. Not ever seen a plastic one, dont think it would last very long. I am not sure why the first post that the blade had been hitting or rubbing the wood. It should be in there, it is not something new. They have been using the wood for some time. LT15, LT28 and LT35 The other mills use the metal bolts. The LT70 is from the top.
The early mills had a bearing running on the band in the center top.
I have seen these bolts good as new and some are gone like rubbed / ground off.
Hope this helps.

Marty

[Bill Gaiche]

I would say replace metal stud with a nylon/plastic stud. Maybe a brass one would work or aluminum but not sure. Trial only would you know for sure. The steel stud would cause gaulding in my opion and could damage a blade over time. bg

[Chuck White]

I don't know fella's, but the one in my LT40 is either plastic or nylon. 

Which makes sense because that would be more of a lubrication affect than a steel one. 

Pete;  Maybe the original owner switched the metal one out and the nylon one in.   

I adjust mine 2 or 3 times through the course of our sawing season.

[customsawyer]

I have had 3 mills with the metal bolts and can't remember a single time that it has messed up a blade.

[pineywoods]

If there is 1/16 inch clearance and the band is rubbing the block/bolt, I'd be looking for the reason. It will be a mechanical resonance situation, and that's something thats not easy to comprehend. Slightly changing the drive belt tension or engine rpm just a tad might stop the flutter. Blade tension will also have an effect. Too much hook angle in real hard woods can also cause blade flutter.

[ely]

Tom, told me along time ago in a pm about that bolt, it started out as a bearing on a bolt. he said it was up there in case the band got to moving up and down too much it was to keep it all in check.
Tom went on to say he had seen the bearing replaced with all varieties of wood and a few plastic and other soft materials. In Toms' words "you can put anything you like up there, chances are it will never touch the bands anyway."

[Jeff]

My mill still has the bearing up there (87 lt30 )  It's seized up. Does not turn. It was that way when I got the mill. Tom also said not to worry about it, it didn't need to turn.

[millwright]

I also have an LT35 and have seen the wooden block, but it doesnt appear that it has made any contact that is visible after sawing about 15,000 bd ft.

[123maxbars]

After alot of research and talking with my woodmizer Rep it looks like the wood block was the right side, but came loose from the two screws and was lower that it was suppose to be causing it to rub against my blade.  Thanks for the help on here!!

[Chuck White]

Glad to hear that you have the problem taken care of 123maxbars.

[musikwerke]

My 1987 LT30 has the roller bearing on the stud.  I replaced it and set the clearance when I rebuilt the mill.  It stays clean and rust free on the circumference so something touches it once in a while.

[Jeff]

It may be that its simply getting scoured with sawdust. The outer part of mine gets clean looking to when I saw, but nothing ever touches it that I know of.