Author Topic: Frick setworks (Read 1207 times)

NMFP · « **on:** December 19, 2011, 10:45:14 pm »

Can anyone tell me why this mill has 2 controlls? I have seen and used many mills with the type on the left but what is the function for the one on the right?

Any suggestions or ideas are completely appreciated.

Thank you!

beenthere · « **Reply #1 on:** December 19, 2011, 11:49:12 pm »

Looks to be one is a double throw on the left and the right is a single throw. Also, the left has much finer increments of movement thus more accurate setting of the finer increments. And maybe the right one is just for reversing the knees. Can't tell that from the pics.

Is this one yours, or one you looked at and took the pic?

NMFP · « **Reply #2 on:** December 20, 2011, 12:13:12 am »

I actually just purchased this mill. Everything is in ok shape but I am going to rebuild the mill with new wood along with cleaning, painting and lubricating all metal parts. When I am done, it should be like a brand new mill but I wasnt sure with the set works. Had never seen two on a machine before like this. I was actually thinking about removing the one on the right but not quite sure yet.

york · « **Reply #3 on:** December 20, 2011, 05:39:58 am »

Hi,in your first thread Ron w. said it may be to recede the head blocks-i have never saw any thing like this,bert

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #4 on:** December 20, 2011, 05:58:37 am »

Looking at the gear ratio, I would say that the bigger one is a fast reverse. It doesn't look like original equipment and could have been added on by one of the owners. I was thinking that the original Frick setworks had 2 different gear ratios on them. One side was slow so there was more accuracy in the sets. The other side was fast and was used only in reverse. But, I don't see that on your setworks.

Frick had power receders on some of their mills. It ran off the back of the carriage and involved stepping on a lever at the sawyers position. That put the setworks in neutral and than was run by a wheel running on the plank that was attached to the lever. It worked great, and you could really turn logs quicker and line up for the cut quicker. I've used them on several mills.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #5 on:** December 20, 2011, 06:53:29 am »

For sure its a manual receder, looks like you need one hand to release the setworks pawls and one to work the receder.With that gear ratio it will recede fast.NMFP the best thing I've found to prep old cast iron for paint is a cup wire wheel on a small angle grinder.Procede slowly using the old wood for a pattern.What I'am saying is just don't pull everything apart and put it in a pile.Keep us posted. Frank C.

york · « **Reply #6 on:** December 20, 2011, 07:11:43 am »

YEP,looking more at picture,frank is right-the set-works has two rods coming down,you twist the handle to lift and release the pawls,then with you right arm,you recede the head-blks...

I am down in Kratzerville and would like to see this mill,thanks Bert

NMFP · « **Reply #7 on:** December 20, 2011, 08:15:30 am »

Bert:

When I get it moved here and start the process, I will be letting you know for sure. I am actually headed to Middleburg today to drop my portable mill off for some engine maintenance.

As you said, it is a manual receeder but do you think it would be better to find a foot receeder of another mill? I used a foot receeder years ago on a mill but its been a while.

Thanks everyone, you have been very helpful.

york · « **Reply #8 on:** December 20, 2011, 09:01:10 am »

NMFP,on rt.220 at top of hill before ya drop down into Dushore,is what looks like Frick mill,set up and there doing nothing,with four head-blks,i will stop and get better look at it...yes,just pm me when you get it home..Bert

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #9 on:** December 20, 2011, 06:21:04 pm »

Quote from: bandmiller2 on December 20, 2011, 06:53:29 am

For sure its a manual receder, looks like you need one hand to release the setworks pawls and one to work the receder.With that gear ratio it will recede fast.

You don't need to release the setwork pawls. If is moving in the opposite direction for the pawls to grab. They simply float over top the gear.

beenthere · « **Reply #10 on:** December 20, 2011, 07:04:18 pm »

Those pawls aren't keeping the knees from receding?

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #11 on:** December 20, 2011, 08:38:34 pm »

Ron,are you sure about those pawls,they ratchet it forward but won't let it turn back unless lifted, mayby I'am missing something. Frank C.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #12 on:** December 21, 2011, 05:48:00 am »

Its been awhile since I run a handmill, so I might be wrong. But, I don't see any way that the first handle can move those paws up and down. The setworks I used to run would flip one side up with a bar while the other side was activated. That doesn't appear to be the case in the picture.

york · « **Reply #13 on:** December 21, 2011, 08:17:09 am »

NMFP,take a look at link-Frick mills are in pa.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Frick-Sawmill-/320816810733?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab22c0aed

NMFP · « **Reply #14 on:** December 21, 2011, 09:11:58 pm »

York, I saw that listed this morning. I thought about looking at that one as well but should probably stick to the one I found.

Thanks so much and greatly appreciate the help and so on....

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #15 on:** December 22, 2011, 06:38:51 am »

There are old circular mills laying fallow everywhere.I live in a suburban yuppie stroon field and have no problems finding mills.Most of the old circle sawyers are living in God's woodlot now,all the folks now want bandmills.Frank C.

Dave_ · « **Reply #16 on:** December 22, 2011, 12:01:23 pm »

Not all the folks

steamsawyer · « **Reply #17 on:** December 22, 2011, 01:25:56 pm »

I wish it was in my neighborhood, I'd be on that like a duck on a junebug. It looks like its in better condition than the one I already have.

york · « **Reply #18 on:** December 22, 2011, 02:11:31 pm »

Yep,that e-bay frick looks good and only about 45 mi.from me,may run and check her out....

Frickman · « **Reply #19 on:** December 29, 2011, 11:00:26 am »

I agree with Ron W., the setworks on the right was installed by someone to just recede the carriage faster. If you look at it it only moves the headblocks back, not forward. Also, there is nothing resembling a power receder on the left hand setworks.

Many of the Frick mills, especially the 0 and 00 models, were sold as bare bones mills with no bells and whistles. I've seen them without receders, extra dogs, even no adjustable taper on the knees. They were sold to farmers to cut railroad ties and locally used lumber when there was free time over winter. Noone had much money back then, especially the farmers, so they cut expenses everywhere they could. Thus the bare bones mill like is pictured here.

What the sawyer did was put whatever setworks he wasn't using in "neutral" so that it was not engaged to the set shaft and used the other setworks. When he wanted to switch he just put the other one in neutral. It is not an efficient setup but it is much better than just using the one on the left. I have sawn on mills like it and let me tell you, it's not as easy as it is with a receder.

NMFP · « **Reply #20 on:** December 30, 2011, 07:12:12 pm »

Frickman:

I agree with you in that it will be easier than using the one on the left. This mill actually has 3 tapers along with additional dogs. I like the fact that this mill is simple so that there are less things to go wrong.

Do you know if it would be difficult to locate a foot receeder or if I should just stick with the one thats on it?

Thanks, NMFP

shelbycharger400 · « **Reply #21 on:** December 30, 2011, 09:34:56 pm »

bandmiller2

circle mill waitin its turn here
more and more i see here and watch youtube, not all mills are the same even by the same manufacturer, mainly the circle mills.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #22 on:** January 01, 2012, 10:43:10 am »

I don't think you can use a foot receder with the setworks you have on that mill. The foot receder has a wheel that runs on the receder board. That pushes the setwork pawls into neutral and the wheel moves the headblocks forwards or back through the setworks. When the receder board goes down, the wheel drops and the pawls become functional.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #23 on:** January 01, 2012, 09:06:21 pm »

Shelby,I don't think I've ever seen two circular mill the same.Years ago there were options and most sawyers mixed and matched parts from different mill to there likeing. Frank C.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #24 on:** January 01, 2012, 09:14:48 pm »

NMFP,have you tried that hand receder on the right in your picture you don't need the mill setup to try it,it may be fast and easy.My Chase has a beam receder but I need to manually twist the "D" handle to release the pawls so it will recede.Many times I'll just use the setworks to recede the headblocks. Frank C.

NMFP · « **Reply #25 on:** January 02, 2012, 07:08:59 am »

Yes, I actually went the other day and started loosening everything and it works well but it will need disassembled, leaned, painted and lubricated for sure. It works ok as it is right now but i am positive it will work better after lubricating a little.

The one on the left, there are pins in it and they set the advancement for board thickness. Do you know off hand if the pin holes are set for nominal dimensions such as 4/4, 5/4 and so on or do they have overage built in so that the boards can be sawn with overage such as 1-1/8" and 1-3/8" respectively? Most of the handset mills I sawed on a few years ago did not have the pins and we watched the setworks for our board thickness and location.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 02, 2012, 07:33:24 am »

NMFP,those holes in the quadrant are nominal and include the desired thickness such as 4/4 plus saw kerf.Those dimentions are adjustable for different kerf saw and special dimensions between the pins.Adjustments are made by how far the pawl yoke goes back to its rest there should be an adjust bolt there. Frank C.

beenthere · « **Reply #27 on:** January 02, 2012, 10:44:08 am »

Also the 'head' of the pins can be made different size to account for finer adjustments.

Frickman · « **Reply #28 on:** January 03, 2012, 10:39:20 am »

NMFP,

You cannot put a foot receder on your mill the way it is setup, just like Ron said. Like bandmiller2 said, there should be an adjustment bolt on the back for fine tuning the distance you move the headblocks on every set. You may also have some shims that are bolted on back there that are set up like feeler gauges. You can flip them in and out for a rougher adjustment. I don't see any in your picture though. With a little work and ingenuity you can make that setworks work as well as the fancier ones.

NMFP · « **Reply #29 on:** January 03, 2012, 03:15:51 pm »

Frickman,

I believe you are correct that it will work as good as the fancier ones out there. I am beginning the tear down and rebuild process this winter/spring and will make sure everything is working correctly when it is reassembled. I havent seen another one out there like this so i was sort of confused when I first spotted it. Will be nice to get it rebuilt and set up so that I can begin sawing with it.

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Author Topic: Frick setworks (Read 1207 times)