Skidder or Tractor

[terry f]

   Thinking about getting one or the other. What I need to do I could get by with a small 4WD tractor, but for half the price I could get a retired skidder. How much life could you expect on one that is running and seems in good shape? I'm talking about sending it to the old foiks home where it will probably run less than 100hrs a year of light duty. Some of the prices I've seen are not much more than scrap or parts, and less than a atv. The tractor I would have to trailer home as my place is somewhat remote, but the skidder I would just leave there.

[thecfarm]

I could use both a skidder and a tractor,but I would not want just a skidder for what I do around here with it. I use the loader on the tractor alot. Right now I'm hauling away a stone wall with it. I dig dirt up in one area and move it to fill up rocks holes are to level a place out.A tractor leaves a much smaller foot print in the woods,but a skidder is safer and made to work in the works. With an older skidder you will have break downs too. A skidder will make faster work of getting the wood out,less trips to be made.

[JDeere]

I have both a skidder and a tractor with a winch and that is a tough call. If you are only cutting for your own use and enjoyment, I would probably go with the tractor. As the cfarm said, there is a lot you can (and will) do with it beyond skidding wood. Don't just let the initial cost determine what you do. Tractors are relatively cheap to run and maintain whereas a skidder can become very expensive very fast if you have a major breakdown. Production wise there is no comparison, as the skidder will pull circles around the tractor. Good luck with your decision. Let us know what you decide.

[WH_Conley]

thecfarm covers it pretty good. I use my tractor and loader every day I do anything. I winch logs with it, handle pallets, around mill and on the farm. I would like to have a skidder to. You would have to look at which one you would use the most.

I don't know your neighborhood, might give vandals a thought before leaving machinery any place.

[Peter Drouin]

the loging I do is on my own land, and im never in a hurry I have made roads here and there on it. A skidder would be faster but I like my JD , with the walasten 1200 it will pull any tree I want or 2. but I don;t want break it so I go lite and often

  

  and the cab is nice you just cant go crazy like you do with a skidder

[Ironwood]

Not sure what I envy more the tractor or the shed!

 Nice, Ironwood

[terry f]

    Thanks for the replys. This might be a stupid question, but is it possible or have seen a snowblower mounted on a skidder? Nice setup Peter, but way out of my price range. I agree on the shed.

[Ironwood]

You would likely need to drive the blower by hydrauli,c which does rob some HP. But that said it should work, most skidders should be 45-100HP.

Ironwood

[Maine372]

ive never seen a skidder with a snowblower but lots of guys have found a way to hook up old state plows to  push roads open. some sort of temporary mount like the snow pushers they use on parking lots.

[gspren]

  Many years ago near Patton, Maine I saw a huge snowblower with a 4 cyl Wisconson engine on it that was mounted on a skidder. I didn't see it in action but it looked impressive.

[redneck]

I can't stop looking at that shed nice job!!

[Holmes]

I can't stop looking at that shed nice job!!

I think his saw mill is on the other side of the tractor. That is a very nice shed.

[grassfed]

I farm and I have 4 tractors and a 501 farmi. For logging I have two skidders (one for parts/backup). I hate running my tractors in the woods! I have a 100 hp SAME tiger that would probably out pull my 440B in a contest but it gets too beat up in the woods and it does not turn as well. I might be the problem or maybe it is my rocky woods but it is hard on the tractors. I think that Peter might be able handle that JD in the woods, but if it was me that beautiful Deere would be a pile of junk in a week.   

[chevytaHOE5674]

If you want a machine that was designed to pull wood then no tractor can compare to a skidder. Skidders are designed to be used and abused in the woods and keep on ticking.  They have the tires and underbody protection to handle constant use in the woods.

If you want a machine that can do hundreds of tasks from brush hogging, FEL work, plowing, discing, as well as pull some wood then a tractor is a good alternative. You have to be more careful with them as they just aren't designed to be worked in the woods constantly. But they will get the wood out if your not interested in all out production.

[Peter Drouin]

My sawmill is on the other side  holmes:D    

  

  and grassfed I am real carefull with JD cost to much                    

[mad murdock]

I have used tractors, cats(dozers, and skidders in the woods.  I would take a skidder any day over any of the above, as it can handle the abuse, even if you take it easy, you will ding up a tractor sometime, it will just happen.  A used skidder would be my choice, especially if you are talking about 100 hrs a year in the woods.  Don't sound like much but it will be the difference between joy and misery for every hour you put in on the machine, IMO.  I use mine for pushing dirt and snow as well as pushing logs up into a nice deck, and even moving logs around with the blade and a chain. (grab hooks welded to the blade in strategic locations are REAL handy).  The winch on the skidder can be used in many ways, especially if you have a snatch block some extra cable and chain, etc.  (though you can do this with a tractor winch too.) If your terrain is at all hilly, the skidder will be more stable on uneven ground as well.

[Peter Drouin]

your right madmurdock and with a skidder you don;t have to worry about the winch being ripped off the 3 pont hich

[Side loader]

Excellent advice and I too like the shed.  Been tractor logging for a couple of years now and today brought home a jd540d grapple skidder.  We have managed to break 2 valve stems had a flat on a rear tire, broke the center link not to mention the Broke fender, blinker ect. All in the past month or so  We've been moving about 50 tons a day with a 50 horse Kubota. It will work, BUT a tractor will be abused and a skidder should not, as a forestry machine is it's designed purpose. My advice would be if you are truly "pitle logging" then a tractor might work. But a skidder is by far the most logical choice for moving a greater volume of wood. Hope it works out for ya.

[Piston]

I'm surprised more people don't use/recommend the Kioti Payeur forester?  I think that would be my ideal smalltime logging setup, however I have no experience on them and have never seen one in person. 

I believe I would prefer a front end loader with grapple attachment for the woods over the small straight blade it comes with though. 

I think Woodmills has one of these, or had one? 

Peter,
Please stop posting pictures of that shed/mill/tractor setup you have.  It's just cruel    Your driving me crazy!   

[thecfarm]

What I'm more surprised is Peter has not broken the glass out of that tractor. That tractor should pull some wood.I only have a 40hp and can go good with that,but looks to be 50 or 60hp?

[Peter Drouin]

It;s a 81 hp . and yes I did brake the back one . JD wants 300.oo for a new one . so I made one out of plxaglass works good

[Stephen Alford]

 Hey Terry , in my case the tractor has been great for cash flow and urban work. The skidder has the clearance and snork. Thought I might share a couple of pics.  The tractor has been used for thinning work where the trees are felled by hand ,winched then bucked. Removal is with the grapple to limit damage to the residuals.

  

  

  

 
  The skidder is used to make a landing

 
   The road is cut full tree and the tops put in a bullpen

 
   The trees harvested are storm damaged

 
   The twitch is cut and hauled out

  

 
   Got to watch for widow makers

 
   Then out to the landing

  

  

 
   Get ol Petie loaded

 
   And call her a day 

 

[Piston]

Stephen,

You make it sound pretty simple.... 

[bill m]

Here are a couple of pictures of the equipment I use.

  

 
I think I am one of the few people using a tractor full time-year round in the woods logging.

[Tim L]

I would love that set up.

[jueston]

Here are a couple of pictures of the equipment I use.

I think I am one of the few people using a tractor full time-year round in the woods logging.

bill, what horse power is the tractor you use? and do you find that grapple has enough power?
i have looked at setups like that and i like what i see.

[beenthere]

Likely 'nuff power to load those logs and stack 'em.

[Mark K]

I used a Belarus 822 with a cab and farmi 601 log winch for many years in the woods. Never took out a window in the cab, just had to be careful and know your equipment limitations. Ran that setup for six years before I bought my timberjack. I can move a lot more wood with the skidder than the tractor. Tractor was 86 HP and skidder is 92 HP.  The tractor was more nimble in the woods but for every trip I make with the skidder I would have to make three with the tractor.

[Piston]

Bill,
Between you with your pictures of your setup, and Peter with his pictures of his millshed setup, you guys are driving me crazy 

I really admire that equipment.

[thecfarm]

Nice  job you are doing Stephen.Are those trees poplar? Trees are pushed into a bullpen? What's a bullpen in the woods?
billm,I really like your setup,ALOT.

[bill m]

jueston, My tractor is 55 hp. and I could always use more lifting power with my grapple. It does good most of the time but I have some jobs ahead of me with some big timber on them.

 
This 12 ft. log had about 630 bd. ft. in it and wasn't to bad to pick up. I am cutting more of this pine now and bringing out logs that are 19' 6 " and minimum 20" inside the bark on the small end. I picked up a butt log yesterday that was 26" on the small end. That was about all it wanted to pick up. The longer the log is the harder it is to pick up.

[woodmills1]

yes I have a le forester from payeur

It is perfect around the mill and great in the woods

here is the first tractor an LK3054


 

 

and here is arnold, I still have the trailer in the first picture

 

  

[Piston]

Woodmills,
Do you prefer the front end loader like you had it on the old tractor, or do you like the new setup with the front blade better? 


Bill,
Did you get your tire chains from a local source?  I'm not all that far from your area and would like an aggressive set like that. 

[Stephen Alford]

   Hey cfarm , in the storm damage pic those are largetooth aspen. One of the goals of the landowner was to get some access to trap lumber in his woodlot. When cutting the road I cut the stumps low and drag fulltree. He can then harvest what he needs with his tractor.  I clean up the storm damage . The bullpen is just a place along the road near the landing where I put the tops and limbs after I cut out the firewood. He sawed enough to put up a new machine shed. Last I talked to him the shed was up and he was out 53$ for nails.   

  

  

 
    Well piston be sure and post some pics of that new tractor , its just a matter of time, it's that simple.     Remember there is no replacement for displacement.

 
    Jeff your doing an amazing job with the forum.    Thank-you, your family and the admins for a great home to visit. Want to wish you all a Merry Christmas. 

 

[thecfarm]

What a tangled up mess. But at least you are making money and the land owner too. Kinda looks like some of my fir. Like the pictures. Thanks.

[bill m]

Piston, my rear chains came from Labonville and front came from Global Forestry.

 
I would try Labonville first. Ken Jones Tires in Worcester has some very similar but I don't think they are as strong.

[g_man]

Bill, I never get tired of looking at your equipment.  What do you use to make your roads so that you can get your tractor and trailer around in the woods ?  The hardest thing for me and my tractor is getting roads in that I can winch from and skid on.

[EricR]

I would go skidder all the way.  i brought my nice shiny kubota into the woods about a year ago and today all i can say today is its not so shiny.  Its now got some ding and dents, a bent step, and missing both tail lights just to mention a few things.  I have a small scale firewood operation and consider myself a carefull operator but stuff happens.  it kills me to have such a nice piece of equipment in the woods that really wasnt designed for it.  they do get beat up no matter how carefull you are.   Just today i got a nice 3 inch stick stuck up under it.  Took about 20 minutes and some choice words to get it out and it smashed my hydraulic filter and bed a hydraulic line.  Dont get me wrong, you can get the job done as i have been doing so for the last year, but i dont think its gonna have a very high resale value when im ready to upgrade.    the picutres dont do it justice but that sob was in there

  

 

[Piston]

Thanks bill.

[bill m]

g_man, I spend a lot of time planing and laying out my roads to minimize the amount of backing up with the trailer and being able to reach the most amount of wood without the need for prebunching with my winch. I also cut my stumps as low as possible.

  

 
EricR, a skid plate would help keep things underneath from getting banged up.

 

[terry f]

     You guys are killing me. I was thinking of an old skidder and a chainsaw and you show me all this beautiful equipment. Stephen, how's the skidder at moveing dirt when you make your landing? The little tractor (28 horse) I've used couldn't push much dirt, had to backblade with the bucket to do most anything.                                                                                                         I don't have any experience with a skidder, but the winch seems like the ticket for me. Whats the maximum distance you can safely winch a medium sized log to the skid trail. My plan is to put 4 or 5 trails dissecting my property and pull the logs to the trail with as little damage as possible.           

[mad murdock]

You can winch as far as the cable you got on the drum. A lot of skidders I've run had 100 yds of mainline. Much more than that gets too heavy to pull out. As far as pushing things, they won't quite do as nice a job as a dozer, but almost. Compared to a tractor with FEL, no contest, the skidder will out do a tractor in that dept. hands down. I use mine to push up 40' logs into a nice size pile, and pile slash as well as dirt work.

[rick f]

Mad Murdock, I got to ask what size skidder and winch holds 300 yds. of cable?  That must drag hard after about 20 yds or so.

[g_man]

Maybe both you guys mixed up yards and feet. Glad I'm not the only one who does that. 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Most skidders I've cut behind and pulled cable for had between 25 and 125 feet of cable depending on how cheap the owner was.

Few winters ago I was hand cutting the veneer logs off a sale to make sure it was done right and also pulling cable to get the logs up out of a ravine for the crew. And 125 feet was a lot of cable to pull out, and then connect sometimes up to 8 or 10 chokers together to get to the bottom or other side of the ravine to get the logs out; boy was that a workout. haha

[thecfarm]

I have a 3pth winch on my tractor. I have pulled out all of the cable,150 feet added on 2 length of 50 feet cable to get the wood to me. BUT this I was doing on a bog,cutting everything. So there was no trees for the logs to get behind. Also makes for ALONG day too. Takes time to do all of the hooking and unhooking. But even just pulling out 150 feet of 7/16 cable 150 and TRYING to walk in a straight line without getting behind another tree is hard. Seems like every time I do it I have to unhook or hook to another tree to get the log from behind a tree so I don't bark up every tree in the 150 feet of cable.Takes alot of time to fool with a few trees this way. Even though my land is a challenge to put a road in,I do anyways. It's just easier in the long run with another road.
I have worked my tractor in the woods and so far,have done no mechanical damage with brush or stumps or rocks. I only cut fire wood for me now,but even when I was doing it for money i was careful with my brush and my roads. My roads were just about always brush free and would cut any bushes putting in a road. Yes,I have the dented fenders,broken lights and all the other things that happens. BUT all my cutting is and was done on my own land which is a big difference. I got all the money. Did not have to share it with land owner. Anything that was done was done to benefit me and I could spend the time doing it.All my brush gets cut up in short pieces too. When the limbs are on the tree I'm on the end of the limbs working my way towards the tree when I can. I cut the limbs into 3-4 feet long. This way the brush gets on the ground and does not stick up in the air, will rot quicker too.Sometimes I will run the saw up and down the limbs to leave just the limb with nothing on it. Yes,I know this takes time,but when I get done with a tree,it's a nice clen job. Than in a few years I can drive run through what is left for brush.My wife has a fit over every dent on my tractor,I just tell her I bought it to work it,not to look at it.

[John Mc]

Working my compact tractor (NH TC33D) in the woods, the only damage I've had so far is a couple of flat tires on the front (good thing, since the rears are filled with Calcium Chloride). I have knocked off a hydraulic filter twice, but that was working in a field (flipped up a flat rock just the wrong way once, and a friend ran over a hidden 2x4 once that harpooned the filter).

How I manage this is that the tractor stays on the trails most of the time. When it does go off-trail, it's only on relatively clear areas. My Uniforest 35E winch has 230 ft of cable, but most of the time I only use about half of that.

The real solution is to armor the tractor by adding a belly pan, limb risers, and FOPS. I'll get around to that one of these days. Until then, I've just got to continue being careful. The equipment I have wouldn't begin to do the job for someone trying to make a living at this, but it works for my needs.

John Mc

[mad murdock]

Maybe both you guys mixed up yards and feet. Glad I'm not the only one who does that. 

Right you are. It is definately feet not yds.  ]
I would not be able to heft that much cable.   I am glad you clarified that one!

[ianw]

it depends on what brand of tractor i would not recomend a kubota they have a real light rear axle if you were going with a tractor go with ethier a JD, case ih or challenger and you really want a loader. also don't forget fuel cost and filter cost and all the maintence cost that go in to owning a good running piece of equipment

[John Mc]

it depends on what brand of tractor i would not recomend a kubota they have a real light rear axle if you were going with a tractor go with ethier a JD, case ih or challenger...

In the smaller sizes (compacts) Case is identical to New Holland. Just different color and options.

[Ironwood]

ianw,

 Just curious as to the comment on the light rear axle on the Kubota, I am concerned about this on an upcoming purchase. I dont like what i see as for rear housings and axles on MOST brands. I have uddy working on several JD's 4120, 755(mine), and one other I cant remember the #. I am not impressed at all. That is why I am looking at an older unit (see "compact Tractor" thread), to boot many of the drives on the back of the newer stuff is pretty complex and hard to get o, shiels covers all sort of FUFU. I really want an older heavier tractor, that is why I am leaning toward an shuttle shift VS hydro drive. I would like to be able to quickly split the tractor and work on it.

 Can you give me some reccommendations on a heavier older Kubota? Where is your experience from?


 Ironwood

[woodmills1]

the skidder type blade is much more usefull in the woods, as well as more manuverable.  the FEL and trailer made for hard turn arounds in the woods

that said, the FEL with bucket is much more usefull around the yard and the mill.  I also have a CAT backhoe so went with the skidder blade for the tractor

the Payeur forestry package includes belly pan, engine guards, FOPS, hydraulic cooler, rear chains and front winch and blade

[pineywoods]

ironwood, I went through the same thinking. You might want to take a look at the heavier industrial kubotas. Most compact tractors are designed for yard/garden type work. I bought a used kubota M4700, 50 hp 2 wheel drive. Shuttle, 8 fwd 4 rev. Had a bunch of guys who do nothing but front end loaders install an aftermarket fel, canadian made E Z on. I spent a whole day with them, picking their brain. They say most of the broke housings break right where the bell housing tapers down to the tranny housing, right behind  where the fel frame bolts on. When I told them that my tractor would be used as a woods and sawmill support machine, they added 2 pieces of heavy wall 2X2 square tubing from the loader frame back to the rear axle. 2 big U bolts around the axle to the tubing. Loaded tires, forks on the fel, logging winch on the back, lots of downright abuse. the only problem has been a flaky ignition switch.

[Ironwood]

I hear you on the more "industrial" type units. I was thinking either a L35 or L39 and in GREEN possibly a 990 w/ a CX300 loader which seem much nicer than the 430 / 460,....... loader (which seem to "flip" flop around alot on the upper arms). I also have a Ford 2120 in my sights with a BushHog loader, and a Ford 1920.

 Ironwood

[thecfarm]

My 2120 bolted all the way back to the rear axle,another reason we brought it. The NH TC40 is the same way too.

[weimedog]

 Have two tractors that are primarily farm tractors but do in a pinch....and that "pinch" seems to happen 40 or 50 times every fall. This fall over 100 times. One thing that my 1066 brings is...your not going to believe this...maneuverability! I don't have to cut as much of a road/trail to my wood when those foot brakes allow me to pivot and the power / weight allows me to pull the logs around those tree's.



 



 

 

[mad murdock]

Wow weimdog! I just put 2+2 together from your pic you posted in the thread on the chainsaw board. You drug those 3 loads you got last monthe with that tractor? Hat's off to you, that was no small feat!

[weimedog]

  yes I did.  It wasn't so bad, only 1/4 mile drag from the woods to the landing. Just one or two muddy cross slopes, rest was OK. Hard part was having to go to work at 3:00 everyday just when I was getting moving! Thanks BTW

[rwthom279]

 

 

My little 27 HP does more than ever intended, runs all day on 8 gal GAS.  If you work smart, have(or build) the right attachments, etc, a little tractor is a valuable tool, even for woodlot management.  IMO a 2 wheel drive will do alot w/ chains and weight, get one with a differential lock.  Mine will go places that are scary enough, and travel places a tractor was never intended (4wd can get ya ina bind fast).  Nice thing is, it's 5ft wide and will just about fit between anything.  I work with what I have...build it to suit needs. 

You might find yourself an older tractor at a great bargain that will work for you, just dont get in a hurry.  Learn what it'll do first, and never take your mind off the task at hand.  It olny takes a second on anything (tractor, skidder, saw, etc.) to end up hurt or worse.

[mad murdock]

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

My little 27 HP does more than ever intended, runs all day on 8 gal GAS.  If you work smart, have the right attachments, etc, a little tractor is a valuable tool, even for woodlot management.  IMO a 2 wheel drive will do alot w/ chains and weight, get one with a differential lock.  Mine will go places that are scary enough,  but doesn't go places a tractor was never intended (4wd can get ya ina bind fast).  I make what I have work...build it to suit needs.

You can do a decent job with a tractor. Way back when my older brother and I began logging full time, (in our teens), we hired our skidding. Then when it got difficult to line up a machine, plus we wanted a bigger piece of the pie, we bought a farmall super h. Drug out about 5 truckloads a month. Went from that to a dozer w/loader and a dray. Then from that to a new iron mule. If you got the $$ and the need to justify it, no comparison, IMHO, skidder wins every time.
You are doing pretty good w/that 2wd tractor, but with no ROPS, be careful! Don't want to see another casualty! My 59hp Garrett diesel skidder burns mebbe 5-6 gal per day.

[weimedog]

having read this posting and getting a better flavor of the discussion. couple of things come to mind..nothing will beat a purpose built piece of equipment for a job...skidders obviously are exactly that. When considering tractors...I have to say there is no replacement for displacement! A few things I have learned over the last 20 plus years relative to old farm tractors. As Mad Murdock has pointed out ...rops is something you want. Snag a log at the wrong time and you can pull a tractor over on yourself. Out here seems like every few years that happens to farmers like me using ag equipment in logging applications. Also I can tell you every hose, linkage (throttle!), wire,  light and corner of a cab will be tested by brush, limbs etc. My poor international 1066 doesn't have many lights left. I'm considering getting a tractor with no cab (Rops as a bar).

As far as those 4x4 utility tractors..very handy for smaller stuff (under 24inchs) and dry ground..I've pulled an awe full lot with my 35hp 4x4 compact (Massey 1433 built by Iseiki in Japan, typical of the type). Problem is they aren't built heavy enough for sustained logging ops..I've bent everything related to the three point on that little tractor trying to pull too much. Also when there is mud they simply don't have the ground clearance once the ruts get deep enough to get to hard pan for traction after the 10nth trip. AND last but not least they are about the most expensive option when you consider weight/power per dollar because they appeal to a larger market and bring top dollar. A larger 60-70hp "obsolete" 2wd farm tractor with double ring chains is both cheaper and way more capable than those compacts when the logs get larger, the mud gets deeper, and the hills steeper. Something like a 7000 class ford,  or like an old 3020 John Deere in that class HP. You can find suitable tractors for well under 10k...sometimes under 5k! And if you beat them..your not out much.

As far as those "bigger" 2wd farm tractors...I love my 1066! About a $10,000 tractor used and 100plus HP and 12,000lbs with 18.4x38 rear tires & double ring chains...but its really too big. Easy power and good brakes along with a very robust 3point make it very effective and I burn maybe 5 gallons a day idling out the biggest logs I have. Just I really need a bit smaller machine, a winch and more logging friendly attachments to be more productive. I'm considering retiring the 1066 back to all farm activities and finding something more suited ...a tractor in the 70 to 90hp class with no cab, at least 34in rear rubber; maybe 38's. Bet I find one for around 5k that will work just fine..

Something that still has use in the farming operations, our main deal here:
http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=6560831&
http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=6609622&

Last but not least, for the price of a good compact you can start considering the larger true ag 4x4's in the 70plus hp range.....another story! Yet again a level above the 2wd tractors..! For the 15k class you could have a real pulling machine! Something like: http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=6647701&

[John Mc]

Weimedog makes some good points, and sums up the situation nicely.

I do my firewood harvesting with a 33 HP compact tractor (NH TC 33D). This is not really "logging": Since it's all going to be blocked to 16" lengths eventually anyway, I can cut the tree to whatever length works to minimize residual stand damage, and stays within the capability of my tractor. I'm also not skidding long distances: it's all on my own land, land I own jointly with a group, or on friend's land. I'm not making a living at this, so if conditions aren't right for my tractor, I can generally wait until they are. I can still drop trees, and in most cases can buck and split them where they fall, if I can't get the tractor close to bring them out. In fact, most of my processing is done at the closest point on the trail to where a tree dropped. The logging winch has made a huge difference in reaching trees, and in protecting my tractor from damage.

What I have works for my needs. I already had the compact tractor for other reasons anyway. I sometimes wish I'd gone the next frame size up (and to a +/- 40 HP tractor). Even then it would still be a compact, given my other uses for it. On some of the things I do with it, a larger sized tractor would be a problem.

If i were buying a tractor primarily for my own version of logging, it would be a bit bigger. If I were buying equipment that would be used only for logging, and needed to be efficient enough to make a living at it (or at least make some significant income), it would be much larger and/or probably wouldn't be a tractor at all.

[mad murdock]

Great points weimdog and JohnMc. My only additional .02 worth to add is that there is a lot of used logging iron available for little $$. My skidder was $3,000 as is. It ran, but not great. I did manage to squeeze in about 15 truckloads of logs with it before I spent an additional $600 fixing the engine up. (granted, if you aren't turning wrenches yourself you would not get off that cheap).
Nonetheless for well under 10k there are many options. A guy just needs to put down on paper all the things he will use a machine for, then match up a machine to best fit those needs.  I am of the persuasion that if I look at used equipment, i would rather have 2 or 3 pieces of equipment that are more adept at 1 or 2 things, than try to use 1 for everything.  FWIW