Author Topic: LT40HD Electrical Problem (Read 876 times)

Klicker · « **on:** December 05, 2011, 04:48:24 pm »

I have a 2006 WMLT40HD with acuset 2. I went to use it today I had to boost it. When I was done and it was getting dark at that time I noticed that the green light above the key glowed and slowley faded out could this be coused by a short.

POSTONLT40HD · « **Reply #1 on:** December 05, 2011, 05:04:54 pm »

Sounds like a battery problem. If your mill is a 2006 and its now 2011.....its probably time for a battery.
Also it might be your alternator. It may not be charging. Check 'em with a meter.
Good-Luck.

Magicman · « **Reply #2 on:** December 05, 2011, 05:40:01 pm »

If you are saying that you had to boost it to start, then obviously you need a new battery.

As just mentioned, a voltmeter is really not an optional item. This shows that the alternator is producing the proper voltage.

Sometimes you need to know.

Klicker · « **Reply #3 on:** December 05, 2011, 07:40:26 pm »

I replaced the battery a little over a year ago and it had been sitting for a while. I never saw the green light stay on when the key was taken out. Rod

Magicman · « **Reply #4 on:** December 05, 2011, 08:01:11 pm »

Key ?? I re-read your original post and anything that I might say would be a guess.

POSTONLT40HD · « **Reply #5 on:** December 05, 2011, 08:15:06 pm »

When you take the key out, you will not see the green light on because there is no power. Hope we're on the same page??

TimGA · « **Reply #6 on:** December 05, 2011, 08:49:47 pm »

Klicker, How long did you run the mill after jump start? Did you have any problems with any electrical fuctions while running? Did you try to start the engine when you were finished? If you ran the mill for say at least an hour with no problems and it started back up with no jump, it would appear that alt and batt are ok. Has this just happened once or a continuing problem? If it will not start in the morning I would load test the batt after giving it a full charge. It sounds like you may have a short, with key in off position disconnect the ground cable from batt, then touch the cable to batt post watch to see if you have a small spark, you should not. Hope this helps. Tim

Klicker · « **Reply #7 on:** December 06, 2011, 05:54:44 am »

Thanks I didn't think that the light should be on when the key is shut off. I will call the dealer to day.

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #8 on:** December 06, 2011, 07:13:29 am »

Perhaps a random fact but it might be pertinent to your situation which obviously has also to do with your battery. The green light above the key is powered by the ACC terminal of the key switch. The ACC term on my 2001 LT40 super front remote has three other wires attached to this terminal, one is the little red (12V) wire to the big solenoid which provides connectivity to the hydraulic strip, another is the little red wire to the accessory solenoid in the big electrical box on the head. If one of those solenoids is bad, it can somehow be sending 12V to the ACC stud via their small red coil wire, don't ask me how, ive never been inside a solenoid. I recently replaced the big solenoid referred to above (after 11 yrs) because it was occasionally staying stuck on and powering the ACC stud , leaving the light on when the key was off.

sparks · « **Reply #9 on:** December 06, 2011, 02:16:01 pm »

You may be getting a back feed of voltage from a capacitor. As mentioned, the ACC terminal power the light and other components. You could remove the wires one by one and cycle the key to see which wire is causing it.

You never want to jump the sawmill. Remove the cable ends and charge the battery. Jumping the mill can cause a voltage surge and circuit boards do not like that.

If you think you have a drain on the battery do the test I attached.

Remember we are here at 1-800-525-8100 to hel[p if you need it. Thanks

Klicker · « **Reply #10 on:** December 06, 2011, 03:26:40 pm »

Thanks Terrifictimbersllc and Sparky. I will try the test tonight if the rain holds off and post the results.

Sparky I have had poor help from other 1800# that I try to avoid them we have a good dealer here in Nova Scotia but not for much longer as he is retiriing at the end of the year. That I just call him but it was after 5pm so I posted here.I have meet the new dealer and his wife he should do well.

Klicker · « **Reply #11 on:** December 06, 2011, 04:25:46 pm »

There is a short in it somewhere as the test light lights up when you do the test or touch the NEG and the frame of the mill. So I left the neg unhooked.

POSTONLT40HD · « **Reply #12 on:** December 06, 2011, 04:35:18 pm »

KLICKER.....KLICKER.....OH KLICKER. Please call 1-800-525-8100 and ask for Michael Ecenberger. I have spelled his last name wrong, I know, but ask for Michael in electrical. This guy, in my opinion is WOODMIZER'S top electrical man,

He can walk you through anything that has to do with an electrical problem on your LT 40.

Like NIKE says "JUST DO IT!" He can help. I promise.

pnyberg · « **Reply #13 on:** December 06, 2011, 05:50:59 pm »

Quote from: sparks on December 06, 2011, 02:16:01 pm

You never want to jump the sawmill.

Oops.

--Peter

Klicker · « **Reply #14 on:** December 06, 2011, 06:54:54 pm »

If I can't figure it out I will call.There aren't that many wires on a mill it shouldn't be to hard to figure out. I probable will not get back to it till next Monday.

jackpine · « **Reply #15 on:** December 06, 2011, 09:01:16 pm »

I am late getting to this thread but I thought that was normal

My lt-40 has been doing that for as long as I can remember and so far no other electrical issue.

Bill

sparks · « **Reply #16 on:** December 07, 2011, 09:08:43 am »

The only things that are powered when the key is off it the starter and the alternator. Disconnect the hot wire from the alternator and see if the test light goes off.

Magicman · « **Reply #17 on:** December 07, 2011, 09:27:09 am »

Yup, a faulty diode in the alternator would explain the light and the reason that the battery drained and had to be "jumped".

Slingshot · « **Reply #18 on:** December 07, 2011, 10:19:55 am »

Quote from: Magicman on December 07, 2011, 09:27:09 am

Yup, a faulty diode in the alternator would explain the light and the reason that the battery drained and had to be "jumped".

Magicman,
Reading this reminded me of a problem my son-in-law has with a Ford
pick-up truck, early 90's. The battery drains when the engine isn't runing and
no one has been able to determine why. He has to remove a battery cable
after using it and it shows no spark when reconnecting. Could the alternator
be the problem even though it still charges the battery?

_________________________
charles

Chuck White · « **Reply #19 on:** December 07, 2011, 10:28:52 am »

Quote from: pnyberg on December 06, 2011, 05:50:59 pm

Quote from: sparks on December 06, 2011, 02:16:01 pm
You never want to jump the sawmill.

Oops.

--Peter

X2 Peter.

Done it several times over the years. Guess I was lucky!

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #20 on:** December 07, 2011, 11:38:38 am »

I tried to jump mine once (diesel) off my F350 (diesel, dual batteries), wouldn't start. That's how I found out I needed bigger gauge jumper cables.

Klicker · « **Reply #21 on:** December 07, 2011, 01:32:33 pm »

I tried the wire from the alternator that was not the problem.

Mooney · « **Reply #22 on:** December 07, 2011, 03:39:12 pm »

Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on December 06, 2011, 04:35:18 pm

KLICKER.....KLICKER.....OH KLICKER. Please call 1-800-525-8100 and ask for Michael Ecenberger. I have spelled his last name wrong, I know, but ask for Michael in electrical. This guy, in my opinion is WOODMIZER'S top electrical man,
He can walk you through anything that has to do with an electrical problem on your LT 40.
Like NIKE says "JUST DO IT!" He can help. I promise.

I passed on these kind words to Mike. The guys always love knowing their help and expertise is appreciated!

He wanted to point out however that there are several electrical experts available to answer electrical questions. When you call 800-525-8100, press 5 for tech support and then 1 for electrical you will get an electrical troubleshooter. Only an electrical troubleshooter will answer this line.

Klicker · « **Reply #23 on:** December 07, 2011, 05:45:17 pm »

Mooney I will call on Monday we are getting some bad weather over the next few days. I won't be using my mill till next week so I disconected my battery and things will be fine. I did try the number to see if it worked from Canada and it does. Thanks

Klicker · « **Reply #24 on:** December 12, 2011, 10:17:43 pm »

Call WM 1800 today they s=and I still do not know where the short is. Try tomorow.

Klicker · « **Reply #25 on:** January 16, 2012, 05:11:43 pm »

I got time today to look for the short in my mill. I traced it back to the acuset2. It appears to be in the wire between the acuset and the transponder. I will be giving WM a call tomorrow. Rod

woodyone.john · « **Reply #26 on:** January 18, 2012, 03:59:04 am »

Quote from: Klicker on December 05, 2011, 07:40:26 pm

I replaced the battery a little over a year ago and it had been sitting for a while. I never saw the green light stay on when the key was taken out. Rod

i had the same problem .it was fixed when i replaced the ignition etc switch.

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #27 on:** January 18, 2012, 04:35:59 am »

Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on December 06, 2011, 07:13:29 am

Perhaps a random fact but it might be pertinent to your situation which obviously has also to do with your battery. The green light above the key is powered by the ACC terminal of the key switch. The ACC term on my 2001 LT40 super front remote has three other wires attached to this terminal, one is the little red (12V) wire to the big solenoid which provides connectivity to the hydraulic strip, another is the little red wire to the accessory solenoid in the big electrical box on the head. If one of those solenoids is bad, it can somehow be sending 12V to the ACC stud via their small red coil wire, don't ask me how, ive never been inside a solenoid. I recently replaced the big solenoid referred to above (after 11 yrs) because it was occasionally staying stuck on and powering the ACC stud , leaving the light on when the key was off.

More than a month now after replacing the solenoid mentioned above ( in the small box next to the battery), my machine still turns off completely. The green light, accuset and accessory power was staying on when the key was off.

Klicker · « **Reply #28 on:** January 18, 2012, 06:46:33 am »

Traced every wire from the ignition switch to the acuset and alight on the neg term that was lit becouse of the short. The light went out whenever the wire to the acuset was disconnected I did this while talking to both of the Mikes and Rick WMBack in Dec. I ran out of time so I pulled the Bat. On Monday I did it all over to make shore. The problem always led back to the acuset . I realy like my acuset and did not want to try taking it apart so when I was standing there looking at it I thought of the wire to the transponder so I pulled it off and the light on the bat went out. I called the new WM dealer and he said he had heard of this wire going on other mills. So he called and ordered the part for me. When I got home I had a call from WM Can wanting me to go over this with them because they had never heard of this before. Pluse they do not have this part in stock. I probable should have checked this sooner cause some time when I was sawing it would for no reason switch back to manual mod when sawing or a Transponder error would come up I would reach back and try to tighten the wire and keep sawing. I think this was when it al started. Rod

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Author Topic: LT40HD Electrical Problem (Read 876 times)