Loading a Lucas on a pickup truck?

[nomad]

     I've seen the videos of loading and unloading a Lucas on an Aussie ute.  Okay; doesn't look so bad.  But I've got a 1030 Lucas and a Dodge 4x4 Ram 2500.  Getting that saw high enough to slide in the back takes 2 big men and a strong boy!  And that's before you put in a hard day.  After one it takes all the above and a magic wand.

     I can't always count on having one or two extra bodies on hand to help load/unload.  I've got an overhead rack for the framework and rails; no problem there.  I don't want to have to resort to a ramp 20' long if I can avoid it.  Anybody got any bright ideas?

     I guess taking the blade off would make it a bit simpler, but sometimes I expect to be set up with the slabbing attachment and that would complicate things.

     I've tried several ideas so far that all seemed good.  They all had one flaw.  None of 'em worked.  Anybody already invented this wheel?  I'd sure like to know; I'm tearing out what little hair I got left!

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

Heres what I usually tote my 10-30 around on the trailers good and low to the ground but its also handy as when Im not doing sawing i just park it with everything I need still in it there are a fair few blokes here who have built dedicated single axle trailers wit a tool box at the front to do it the same way Mate 



Now when I was in the States I was driving round in a Lucas Mills & Baileys 08 mod 2500 Ram now I used either the ramps or the same method I used when I was taking the mill on pickups and light trucks which is easy with the sidewinder  Roll the carriage upto the back of the truck .wind the carriage back to the other side off the frame to take the weight of the large wheels lift one end of the carriage up into the back of the truck then wind the center unit back to the original position keep one hand on the winder and one on the break to be able to lock it off if needed  then just lift the end up thats still on the ground and roll er in  it works the other way too if you want to reduce the angle but you would have to have the saw off 

With the trip there Casey and I fitted two Mills and everything else in from My trip and demos in the 2500 crew cab the standard bed and roof rack and ill have to load them up along with the others as I have a couple of pics with it all loaded up and It Chock a Block Full    I was told we would not fit them both on and we would most likely have to truck one back to Ca but when Im told somethings dang near impossible I gotta do it They just got the reply I'll fit em on and we did after alot of packing 

Hope this helps

Best Regards Chris

[nomad]

     Chris, I think I see what you're saying.  Load the big wheels first, then crank the sawhead up to that end?  I haven't tried it that way.  I was putting the little wheels up first.  That mean't I could only move the sawhead up to the tailgate 'cause of the blade.  That wasn't far enough for one man to load it.  The truck is just too tall.  I'll try that when I get back home next week.
     That still won't help me with the slabbing attachment installed though.  I'm really trying to avoid a trailer if I can help it.  But if I gotta go that route, then I will.

[js2743]

How about a small winch mounted on your overhead rack to pull the saw up the ramp. do your ramps have the upward curve in them? or are they the straight ones? the curved ones work much better

[KnotBB]

I work mostly alone so had to figure out something so...:

I use the side rails as a ramp for my 827!  That gives me a 22' long ramp and nothing extra to carry.  Made sloped blocks that fit into the rails and lay over the tailgate to off load.  Need the slope to get the saw on the "ramps"  Use 1" blocking on the ground end to get a gentle slope to get on the rails to load when needed.

Been doing it for about three years and no problems at all.

[nomad]

I work mostly alone so had to figure out something so...:

I use the side rails as a ramp for my 827!  That gives me a 22' long ramp and nothing extra to carry.  Made sloped blocks that fit into the rails and lay over the tailgate to off load.  Need the slope to get the saw on the "ramps"  Use 1" blocking on the ground end to get a gentle slope to get on the rails to load when needed.

Been doing it for about three years and no problems at all.

     Now that's an idea I just never thought of.  I don't think the 10-30 is much heavier than the 8-27.  I think my biggest concern would be the rails sliding off the tailgate.  Can you post a pic of the blocks you use with this idea?  Sounds intriguing.