Author Topic: Finish for green timber (oak) question (Read 857 times)

scsmith42 · « **on:** November 17, 2011, 10:35:19 am »

What's the best finish to use on green wood? I have a large oak block (25" x 32" x 38") that I've milled up to put in the shop as a heavy table. Obviously it will require about 20 years to dry! Rather than leave the surface rough, I would like to put a finish on it to slow down the drying (and checking) process, as well as to improve it's looks.

Since most finishes are designed for dry wood, I'm wondering what the best options would be for green wood (such as timber frame posts).

Is a BLO - Poly - mineral spirits mix ok to use on the wet wood?

Scott

Stephen1 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 17, 2011, 11:05:50 am »

I`m chipping here as I`m interested also, If you put some kind of poly on won`t it crack as the wood shrinks.
Stephen

Jim_Rogers · « **Reply #2 on:** November 17, 2011, 05:08:03 pm »

Well, the old timer told me once, that before they made aluminum ladders they used wooden ladders.
Rarely were these "out of the weather". So to make them last they would mix 50% turpentine and 50% boiled linseed oil and brush that on.

This mix of oils will soak in and replace the water as the water evaporates and it reduces checking and splitting some.
Lots of the guys who I sell back hoe trailer planks to, use this mix and it makes the oak planks last a long time.

Jim Rogers

scsmith42 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 17, 2011, 08:01:16 pm »

Thanks Jim - I'll give that a try.

WDH · « **Reply #4 on:** November 17, 2011, 08:22:50 pm »

Keep us posted as I am very interested on how this turns out. That is a big hunk of wood!

scsmith42 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 18, 2011, 06:03:19 pm »

Danny, here's a photo for your enjoyment!

I plan on using a router sled to clean up the sawmill marks, and then run a hand plane over it before trying out Jim's turpentine/BLO finish.

Brian Moore · « **Reply #6 on:** November 18, 2011, 07:53:03 pm »

When I built my first work bench I read in an old book of my Dad's was to use (for dry wood of course) BLO. Apply one coat a day for one week, then one coat a week for one month, then one coat a month for a year, then one coat a year for the rest of your life. This has worked very well for me so far. The finish is almost impervious to any other liquid. So I would think the turp and BLO will work very well for you.

Please Keep us posted

Jim_Rogers · « **Reply #7 on:** November 18, 2011, 08:19:22 pm »

SC:
Did you cut that block yourself?

Jim Rogers

scsmith42 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 18, 2011, 09:12:24 pm »

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on November 18, 2011, 08:19:22 pm

SC:
Did you cut that block yourself?

Jim Rogers

Jim, between me and one of my farm hands, yes.

It started out as a cutoff from a 50" white oak log where the trunk forked off into branches. I hated to throw it away, so the cuttoff piece has been sitting around my sawyard for about a year. Finally decided to do something with it.

Swingblade mills have their advantages when it comes to doing funky stuff....

WDH · « **Reply #9 on:** November 18, 2011, 10:06:41 pm »

I want one!

PC-Urban-Sawyer · « **Reply #10 on:** November 18, 2011, 10:53:32 pm »

I think you aught to paint black dots on the sides and make what might be the world's largest (heaviest???) die (make two and then it would be dice...)

Herb

Raphael · « **Reply #11 on:** November 19, 2011, 11:38:55 am »

I've been using Land Ark wood finish these days, it's essentially a variant of Jim's linseed and turpentine finish.
Instead of turpentine they use D Limonene, aka: food grade citrus solvent and add a bit of bees wax to give it some luster.
The biggest difference is your house/workshop reeks of oranges for a couple days instead of turpentine.

scsmith42 · « **Reply #12 on:** November 19, 2011, 08:46:22 pm »

Quote from: Raphael on November 19, 2011, 11:38:55 am

I've been using Land Ark wood finish these days, it's essentially a variant of Jim's linseed and turpentine finish.
Instead of turpentine they use D Limonene, aka: food grade citrus solvent and add a bit of bees wax to give it some luster.
The biggest difference is your house/workshop reeks of oranges for a couple days instead of turpentine.

I can see where oranges would smell better! Thanks for the tip.

Scott

Norm · « **Reply #13 on:** November 20, 2011, 08:14:12 am »

The heck with the wood I want the shop!

Raphael · « **Reply #14 on:** November 20, 2011, 10:07:47 am »

Quote from: Norm on November 20, 2011, 08:14:12 am

The heck with the wood I want the shop!

Amen brother!

Rooster · « **Reply #15 on:** November 20, 2011, 10:10:27 am »

Secretly, he lives at the local vocational/ tech school!

I know some guys who never seem to pass the woodworking program... and then just keep signing up for the same class every 6 months. Even at $150 per class they would never pay enough tuition to equal the amount that all the equipment that they have access to is worth.

I'm thinking of taking the welding course...I have some fab-jobs I need to finish.

Sorry,...Staying on topic, ...is there a need to finish the bottom side? Will it dry at a different rate than the the other 5 sides and cause uneven checking? Is it on rollers? Are those forklift dados I see at the bottom? Are we looking at a possible solution to Brad_bb's request for a walnut sheller?

Thanks,
Rooster

scsmith42 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 22, 2011, 05:40:59 am »

Quote from: Rooster on November 20, 2011, 10:10:27 am

Sorry,...Staying on topic, ...is there a need to finish the bottom side? Will it dry at a different rate than the the other 5 sides and cause uneven checking? Is it on rollers? Are those forklift dados I see at the bottom? Are we looking at a possible solution to Brad_bb's request for a walnut sheller?

Thanks,
Rooster

The slots serve a dual purpose. They were sized for a pallet jack (but a forklift fits them just fine) in order to allow me to move it around the shop. I am planning to finish all sides, turning the block as needed in order to have the working surface up. The first step will be to build a router sled to allow me to eliminate the keft marks from the sawmill, and then I'll do a final finish with a hand plane. After that I'll apply a couple of coats of Jim's treatment, and then turn the block and start over.

Right now the block is covered by plumbing fittings (we're running black pipe air lines in the shop this week), but once we're done I'll start on the finishing process.

scsmith42 · « **Reply #17 on:** November 22, 2011, 05:42:39 am »

Quote from: Norm on November 20, 2011, 08:14:12 am

The heck with the wood I want the shop!

I dunno Norm... something tells me that you've probably got a nice shop stashed away on your farm ....

Norm · « **Reply #18 on:** November 22, 2011, 06:49:47 am »

Who me....

I notice you have a stand for your power feeder. How do you like it?

scsmith42 · « **Reply #19 on:** November 22, 2011, 01:31:35 pm »

Quote from: Norm on November 22, 2011, 06:49:47 am

Who me....

I notice you have a stand for your power feeder. How do you like it?

I can't imagine using the power feeder w/o the stand, for several reasons. First, you can't see it in the photo but the equipment island is made up of a shaper, bandsaw, and jointer/planer. The powerfeeder is mounted on the shaper in such a way that I can swing it over to the jointer and use it there as well.

Not to mention that it makes it real easy to change the setup for various board widths, thicknesses, etc.

News:

Author Topic: Finish for green timber (oak) question (Read 857 times)