Author Topic: green flooring (Read 1027 times)

cypresskayaksllc · « **on:** November 14, 2011, 09:08:03 pm »

Im rebuilding my woodshop. Putting everything up green. Ill be cutting the flooring this week. My joists are going to be 2x6 16oc. Im not sure how to do the flooring. Using pine, slash. My idea was to cut it 5 or 6 quarter, Screw it down. Run a fan on the flooring (on top and underneath). After its down to about 12-14% I would unscrew and plane the exposed side and rescrew tight together. Any suggestions? The floor is 1200 sq ft

jueston · « **Reply #1 on:** November 14, 2011, 09:33:36 pm »

i think the problem will be he gap between the boards when it dries, it might be a half inch or more.... i think your better off letting the boards air dry for a few months and then installing them, at least then the majority of the water is out so the shrinkage would be small.

jueston · « **Reply #2 on:** November 14, 2011, 09:36:32 pm »

i just re-read and realized you allready addressed the shrinkage... your idea sounds good to me....

WDH · « **Reply #3 on:** November 14, 2011, 10:03:49 pm »

That seems like a lot of re-work to do. Why not sticker the pine and let it initially dry. In Florida this time of year it will dry fast, especially if you put fans on the stack.

However, your plan sounds fine if the re-work is not a problem for you.

T Welsh · « **Reply #4 on:** November 15, 2011, 05:19:08 am »

Like everyone else said,it will work,but the amount of work involved removing after drying and running through the planer and reattaching doesnt sound to attractive to me.Tim

kelLOGg · « **Reply #5 on:** November 15, 2011, 06:38:13 am »

I would not want to plane flooring after it has been walked upon in a shop. Ground-in dirt and who-knows-what other foreign material would nick the planer blades. Let it dry first.
Bob

pigman · « **Reply #6 on:** November 15, 2011, 07:23:43 am »

I think cracks in a shop floor would be great. Just sweep the dust in the cracks.

scsmith42 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 15, 2011, 07:35:17 am »

I presume that you want to install some flooring right away so that you can use the shop. Rather than removing the boards in the future (for all of the reasons already stated), what about this?

Mill twice as much flooring as you need, 4/4 thick. Put half of it down in the shop right away, and sticker the other half. In a few months when both are dry, S2S the dry stack and install it on top of the old (with a layer of tar paper in-between them to control the moisture migration).

ely · « **Reply #8 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:49:34 am »

i agree with the last post.

metalspinner · « **Reply #9 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:53:00 am »

Scott, that sounds like a good idea.

The subfloor in our house is 1x6 set on the diagonal with tar paper placed between the sub and finished floor.

Magicman · « **Reply #10 on:** November 15, 2011, 09:07:59 am »

Your plan will work. Since it sounds like the final installation will not be T&G, I would consider a slight V-groove.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #11 on:** November 15, 2011, 11:36:12 am »

Quote from: pigman on November 15, 2011, 07:23:43 am

I think cracks in a shop floor would be great. Just sweep the dust in the cracks.

that's what I did. I put down green 4/4 white oak on 16" centers. 2x6 joists on 8' span. There's 1/2" gaps now. It doesn't bother me.

cypresskayaksllc · « **Reply #12 on:** November 15, 2011, 12:33:58 pm »

I guess the gaps wouldnt be that big of a thing. Maybe Ill just plane the face side green and hope that the thickness stays somewhat consistent.

beenthere · « **Reply #13 on:** November 15, 2011, 01:55:45 pm »

Seems a one-face planing wouldn't get you much.
If there is variation in rough thickness, planing one side will just be somewhat parallel to the other side. If there are humps that ride through on the bed, planing will effectively make thin spots.
Maybe planing lightly on one side and flip over for a finish planing on the other face.
Planers were meant to set thickness after one face was jointed flat (or skip dressed).

jim blodgett · « **Reply #14 on:** November 15, 2011, 04:28:24 pm »

If you do decide to screw it down green and take it back up for surfacing later, only use one screw per joist per floorboard. That will allow the floorboard to shrink without (or at least with far less) splitting. If you pin both edges, you're asking for severe cracking and splitting because any shrinkage will occur towards the fastened edges, from the center.

Same reason we don't nail both edges of siding or any t&g woodwork, and why professionally built furniture, millwork or cabinetry utilizes floating panels whenever possible.

Wood moves as seasonal humidity fluctuates. You can either learn to account for those fluctuations when working with wood, or try to fight it.

dnalley · « **Reply #15 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:09:25 pm »

Are you gonna build the walls on top of the flooring? If so, you're gonna have a problem getting some of the boards up, especially on at least two sides. What about plywood subfloor and then dry flooring later?

WDH · « **Reply #16 on:** November 15, 2011, 08:41:29 pm »

Quote from: hackberry jake on November 15, 2011, 11:36:12 am

There's 1/2" gaps now. It doesn't bother me.

Hackberry,

You must not have snakes

.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #17 on:** November 17, 2011, 12:55:28 pm »

I'm sure there are snakes around there, but if theres commotion above them, they wont go towards it. They'll just hide down there and keep the mice at bay. Its just a saw shed.

cypresskayaksllc · « **Reply #18 on:** November 17, 2011, 09:14:06 pm »

Last year I found a snake in my bedroom and there arent any cracks in the floor. And its on the second floor. I still dont know how he got in

Magicman · « **Reply #19 on:** November 22, 2011, 08:25:39 am »

I know of an instance where a snake entered an open sewer line and navigated the commode trap. $:-\$

They can also climb stairs.

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Author Topic: green flooring (Read 1027 times)