New home for M14 Foley belsaw

[captain_crunch]

Greg
Will try for pics tomorrow not difficult to do  mine had the laminated file pieces and chrome laughed at em so I first tryed a wore down 4 in grinder disc and it worked  but was too close to hub  but cutt off wheel is flat so that worked just needs to be worn down enough  not to hit ring poor people just have poor ways
Brian

[snowshoveler]

Now you just know I am going to copy this sharpener thing.
And Crunchy posts pics that I can copy.
 Chris

[Lambee10]

Greg:

I was going to PM you but I figured someone else may be learning from this thread...

would you replace both the bit and shanks or can I reuse the shanks?  Yep- I am cheap.

[apm]

You can reuse the shanks over & over again. For a hobby sawyer you may never wear out a set. That's assuming the shanks you're currently using are still effective. You may need to "rust reaper" them prior to trying to remove them if the saw has been sitting a long time. The wrench is pretty self evident, but the shank just twists out of the saw, bringing the tooth with it. Go ahead and completely remove the shank, this first time, so that you can clean and lubricate the pocket it goes in. When you are ready, mount a tooth and twist the shank back into place. It should start pretty easily and then get tighter the farther you twist it. The last 1/4" or so of travel is usually pretty snug. You may even need to tap the wrench with the heel of your hand to seat the tooth against the shoulder. Once installed, I've always taken the handle of the wrench and tapped the gullet of the shank straight down into it's socket, just for kicks. I don't know if it helps or not, but it makes me feel better!

Check your shank after installation to make sure it's in the center of the tooth. If not, it will need to be tapped to the appropriate side of the saw to center it. Again, the handle of the wrench will move it sideways if necessary. Check the shanks to make sure the gullet area is not badly rounded off, but has nice square edges. I've heard of guys filing them back square if they were worn, but I don't think I've ever tried that.

All of the shanks should go back in with approximately the same effort/tightness. if a couple are looser than the others you can lay them on an anvil and put a couple of heavy center punch marks on each side, symmetrical to each other, and that will tighten them up in the socket.

Tell us a little about your saw; what diameter? how many teeth? what style tooth?

Greg

[Lambee10]

I did not think the shanks could be worn out.  the Book from Standford Lunstrum states they may get thin over time but I cannot imagine they would with this mill.  I am sure he is talking a high capacity producing unit.

I have not stopped long enough to study the blade for numbers becasue it is dark when I leave the house and dark when I get home during the week.

However, I mentioned earlier in the thread I actually have the orignal owners manual and the sawblade parts list has the 40" diameter blade listed as using IP Tooth (style B- 8/9 gauge- 9/32 Kerf).  If I remember right it has 24 teeth.  Looks like the bits come in boxes of 100.  that should do me for a while- me thinks.

[apm]

When I bought my mill, new, in 1985 or 86, B.H. Payne was supplying the saws to Belsaw. That's what they told me, anyway. I didn't buy a saw with my mill at the time because I had a couple of saws already from a previous mill. Later, I bought one of the original Belsaw saws from a forum member, here. They're just a little different in that they don't have holes for drive pins and they have a low number of teeth to keep the power requirements low for the Belsaw mills. The center hole is also a little smaller than standard. I ran a Hoe 48" saw on mine for years but had to use a bushing on the mandrell to allow for the larger hole. I think 40" was standard from Belsaw. The one I bought is a "B" 8/9.

Greg

[dail_h]

lambee,,, thats the saw i'm running on my Belsaw,,40", 24 tooth , B8 / 9. my sawdoc repitched it so it bites a little better. is bout all my 3600 Ford can handel in poplar

[Lambee10]

Dail
What kind of HP do you figure you are getting out of the PTO for the 3600?

I hope sharp bits will help the huffin and puffin I got on a few bigger oaks.

[dail_h]

Hey lanbee,
  think the book calls for 45 /48 hp or somethin like that. but thats new ,, mine's a little tired. do run straight exasut when sawin ,, helps a little. pint of kerosene in each 5 gal diesel helps too

[captain_crunch]

Strange ??
We took a 50 in Hoe blade off my Belsaw and put a 46inX36 tooth Simons on it and don't remember a bushing

[bandmiller2]

Its tough to mill underpowered,the way Belsaws are set up they need a left turning engine.The best solution is to find a large diesel farm tractor with worn out tires,no three point,or something else to make it not desireable as a field tractor and leave it hooked to the mill. Frank C.

[captain_crunch]

At one time my belsaw was ran off a Ford 300 6 out of a lumber carrier which had a 4 speed with a Reverser (johnson bar) which gave you 4 reverses which is correct rotation for Belsaw opperation. Also industrial engines generally have a govnor

[dail_h]

Captin, the 48" that i got with the mill,has a larger center hole,, owner said he had bushin machined,, n sawed with the blade,, but we didnt find it with the mill parts,, or "on the nail" where was supposed to be,lol

[captain_crunch]

Know what you mean every time I find something like this  the key piece seems to have gotten lost