New home for M14 Foley belsaw

[Lambee10]

I spent most of the day in the woods Saturday uncovering a M 14 saw that I had made an agreement on.  It took a large backhoe, 22' trailer (way too short) and deternimation.

We got it out of the vines and trees that were growing around it and loaded it on the trailer with about 10' hanging off the back and away we went back to my farm.

When we got home, I realized that the big backhoe was not going to be there to help lift this off  (small oversight) and I had to use chains and  my small tractor and bucket to lift it in one piece off the trailer.  Well, needless to say I did not have enough weight in the back end of my tractor and it made for some wierd feelings.  I loaded every piece of equipment I own on the back stacked up on the bale spear (box blade, cider blocks, what ever) and was able to lift it up high enough to pull the trailer out from under it. 

On Sunday, I used several quarts of 3 in 1 oil and every thing came lose and started working!  I need new belts and much more work but it was a relief to see things start moving again.  Hopefully I will try to have this leveled and set over Thanksgiving break but it is almost as fun fixing it as it will be running it!

Anyone know how to make the days longer? I want to play with it after work!

Will keep you posted as I am sure I will have questions.

 Will try to get some pictures up on the extraction!

[dail_h]

Congrats  man, I just got my M14 goin a coupla weeks ago, what a hoot to saw with, after sawin with  a band mill. Sure does make my old tractor huff n puff tho

[bandmiller2]

Lambee,take a couple of pieces off the mill and work on them in your shop after dark.Clean ,free up,and paint then move on to outhers pretty soon it will be ready for assembly and done up proper.Congrats on your "new" mill. Frank C.

[Peder McElroy]

Congrats on the Belsaw. I have one and what fun to run,but be careful and use two people when you mill, I didn't one Sunday and it was almost my last time milling. Be safe and have fun.
Peder

[captain_crunch]

A shut down is essencal I have a spider web throttle rope monkey motion that lets me stall tractor in bad spot

[Lambee10]

Thanks for the input.

Captain- I have been pondering on the Kill switch.  I have some ideas but I am open to learning what others have done.

I had to bypass the driver seat switch on the tractor so I could operate the PTO without leaving my son on the tractor  .  I thought that in an emergancy I could build a switch to open and close that circuit but it just stalls the tractor.  I think I would rather make something mechanical to run over and be able to hit the spring loaded PTO on/off switch.

Any pictures or ideas I could see from someone?

[mad murdock]

Congrat Lambee10 on your mill!  Sounds like a great addition to your farm.  What species of wood will you primarily be milling? Will you be using the lumber for farm preservation/upkeep/improvements?

[captain_crunch]

my tractor is old enough to not have any saftey switches other than no start in gear but I have 2 nylon ropes ran thru pullys to hand throttle so in trouble mill will kill tractor at idle in bind. Also this is about as close to saw as you can get with out being dumb

[Lambee10]

Believe me- I am not going to get near that thing.

good pricture.  I see you converted to Hydaulics.  What is the support/pipe that the handle is mounted to?  Is that a building support?

Also looks like a guide wheel at the bottom- Is that to keep it off the support?

[bandmiller2]

On boath circular mill I;ve set up  put a remote clutch lever in the sawyers box.Also good form to have a clear path if you have to get out of dodge quick.Something like a section of fireplace screen suspended by chains above the saw will catch most of the shreds and small stuff that gets slung off the saw.Its good to have a hinged section next to the saw in case something gets wedged agenst the blade you flip it up to release it and not heat the plate. Frank C.

[captain_crunch]

the post is roof suport and put there on purpose to hide behind : the wheel adjusts in out with crank when cutting 1 in boards you crank pointer(on 6in in pic) to 1in saves lots of thinking Only drawback is better remember to crank it back when edgeing

[Lambee10]

Oh I see the pointer now.  clever.  One day when I grow up I will be that smart.

your pretty skinny to hide behind that pole!

[captain_crunch]

This pic of Jered(oldest son) and Duane might show how blade is gaurded

You can see blade over Jered's left hand if you look close. When I saw I stand almost where Duane is standing more beside blade than behind it

[Lambee10]

thanks. What horsepower does the Ford put out at the PTO?  How does it work for you?

[captain_crunch]

Ford 3000 rated at 40 pto hp mine was tweeked to 48 when We had it on dyno when I was in agg shop at collage. Dont have trouble sawing this size logs

secret I belive is hyd carrage feed infinite speed control and saw cant grab into log like Duanes American really need to be on toes with it or it will grab into log.
not sure what went south with pic but click on link and it will pop up

[beenthere]

Ford 3000 rated at 40 pto hp mine was tweeked to 48 when We had it on dyno when I was in agg shop at collage. Dont have trouble sawing this size logs
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
secret I belive is hyd carrage feed infinite speed control and saw cant grab into log like Duanes American really need to be on toes with it or it will grab into log

Forgot an end bracket. Make use of the Preview button and you will catch those things.

[captain_crunch]

BNT
Thanks fer tip I used preview but not puter sharp enough to notice things like that

[Woodchuck53]

Congrats Lambee. Enjoy the mill.

A couple years ago I fixed a temp. air cylinder to a friends pto lever with a quarter turn ball valve on the exhuast side to vent if he got in a bind. He shifts the lever in to gear and attached a spring to it. He would charged the cylinder with air to hold it open. Any problems he would jerk the valve handle open and let the spring tension pull it in to nuetral.

Crude but it worked till he had things like he wanted and he felt he could saw by his self safely.

Maybe something like that would work for you.

[Lambee10]

Well I got the mill set and level.  have worked on tweaking it when I have time and actually tried to mill a log or two just to see what happens.  Kinda crooked but did not expect much.

One problem I did not think about is the pto shaft is solid.  Since it does not telescope it is difficult to hook up to the tractor by yourself!!!

Keeps me from running the mill by myself!   

  

 [img]ht

[bandmiller2]

Lambee,does the PTO look homemade? never heard of one that didn't have some telescope.It should also have ether a slip clutch or shear bolt. Frank C.

[apm]

 

  You've got a fine start, there, Lambee. What you gonna do about sawdust? I've got an M14 just one state over from you.

Greg

[captain_crunch]

Two suggestions one is a roll table behind saw so lumber dont have to be packed by hand. Second is crusher screen works better beside saw than solid deck to let sawdust fall thru and needs  to hinge or lift to allow small slices that  WILL  wedge between deck and blade to fall thru
 
 
for saftey reasons decking between frame rails not really good idea because it offers chance to get where you should not be with saw running

[reride82]

Hello,
I don't mean to steal this thread, but how do you guys have your splitter/sail mounted behind the blade? Is it fixed, or is mounted so you can adjust it? I was thinking of using all-tread bolts and having them bolted through the rail frame. Will this work or is there a better method? And what is the best way to tune it so it doesn't hang up on the cant or the slab? Any pictures?

Levi

[apm]

Hi Levi,
My splitter is adjustable. It is mounted to the frame with four bolts, with a nut on each side of the frame rail. You can move it in or out to any position that suits you. I use a straightedge like a 6' level against the saw plate and set the splitter about 1/16" or so away from the level.  There's a little guess in it because the saw stands up a little when it's rotating as opposed to making your adjustment with the saw stopped.

Greg

[reride82]

Greg,
Thanks for the information. I'll give that a try when I'm up at the mill this weekend.
Levi

[Lambee10]

Levi- I did the same as Greg.  Put a level against the blade to line it up.
I added a roll table and a temp log deck and will try to get pictures of them.  I may pop one of the adjustment on that piece so you see it.


I would like to see log deck ideas from others.  I am glad I did not dig holes or anything yet as I need it wider than what I have and a little further away from the sawyer station. 

The owners manual (yes the last owner kept the manual and actually found it) shows a quick view of a hinged log deck that can be lifted up near the frame so a person can walk in there.  Can anyone share picts of what they use?

Greg- I am open to ideas on the saw dust.  I saw a blower system on one site that blew it into a trailer.

[bandmiller2]

Lambee,sawdust blowers are handy but pull alot of power right off the top.If you have a large engine or electrical service fine,they can also be noisy.A sawdust conveyer is quiet and requires squat for power.Belsaws owners manual is good info especially the flip up log turners. Frank C.

[captain_crunch]

here is how my Spltter Ah er sail in these parts looks
 
I use conveyer under mill to move sawdust to shed we use lots of sawdust with cows and horses so mine is in shed
 

[captain_crunch]

one more look not good pic
 

[bandmiller2]

Splitters are of two types bar type shown and disc type that turns,boath do the job of keeping the newly cut board from pinching the saw.They should be flush on the log/cant side and a little wider than the saw kerf.Frank C.

[bandmiller2]

Lambee,The log deck should be the same hight as the carriage.I use two3' pieces of oak to roll the logs on the mill then remove them to walk by.My two flip up turners are mounted on short sections of phone pole burried deep to just clear the carriage knees.You won't go wrong if you follow Belsaws directions.Your mill will be more pleasant and less tiring if you build a wood deck to work on,one thats a little springy,it will keep you off the cold muddy ground.Don't be too neat leave a little sawdust around the mill foundation will keep the frost from going deep.Frank C.

[Lambee10]

thanks Bandmiller- I will leave sawdust around so I look busy not because of frost line.  Our frost line consist of whats on the windshield in the mornings here.  If we get a lot of frost and they close schools. 
I think the PTO shaft is somewhat homemade.  It was run from a Farmall M and that was connected full time.  I need to use my tractor so I am looking to replace it with a telescoping version.  That should save a few cuss words.

CC- I like the conveyor solution. I have stalls and other uses for the dust so I need to think on that more seriously. 

By the way: good looking set up APM.   

[apm]

If you're powering the mill with a tractor PTO, the dust removal gets a little more tricky. On an M14 the tractor is directly in front of the mill, right in the way of where you'd normally come out with a dust chain. I use a dust chain on mine, but had to run it out at an angle to clear the tractor. It requires a little imagination.

A guy named Tripp used to post on here some with an M14. He had the most elegant solution for a dust chain I'd ever seen. You can see his stuff on YouTube. Just search Belsaw sawmill. You can just see the dust chain beside the tractor in these pictures.
Greg
 

  

 

[captain_crunch]

Looked at Belsaw Mill on  youtube and wow there is a 5 second(cheap camera) vidio of ours when we first set it up Dont do link thingy well But is called Crunch Family's Rebuilt Circle Mill

[Lambee10]

was that you?

I saw that when I first researched the M-14.

[reride82]

Lambee,
If your log deck isn't permanent yet, how do you have it built? I have been thinking about the log deck as well but I figured having it a little mobile would be better at first as well. My sawyer's station is mobile at the moment, well as far as my hydraulic hoses and wiring to the engine will reach anyways...

Captain,
I like the idea of a conveyor for the sawdust. I have a blower but not any real way to power it. I don't have electricity to the mill yet and trying to get power off of the engine to the blower would be tricky unless I went hydraulic which I think would be a little too much on my hydraulic pump. But with the conveyor system I think I could use a low speed hydraulic motor and thus solving the problem. Has anyone ever used a grain elevator(chain with cups or paddles) off of a grain combine for sawdust removal?
Levi

[bandmiller2]

Levi,you can use almost anything for a sawdust conveyer,anything that will handle grain should work.I've always used fire hose because it was available.Just run the end of the conveyer below the leading edge of the saw the sawdust will build its own trough to the conveyer belt/chain. Frank C.

[bandmiller2]

Levi,you were asking about a log deck that is movable.For my bandmill that is portable I made two super heavy duty 8' long saw horses from oak same hight as the mill with two removable  pieces of oak so I can walk between the mill and log deck.I can load 4 or 5 logs and have room to stack boards that need edging. Frank C.

[reride82]

Bandmiller,
Thanks for the info. I was thinking something like an upside down T for bases for each 'sawhorse' and make two of them for my log deck. I'll take a closer look at the grain elevators and see how tight the clearances are. I would imagine with some of the debris that comes off the mill, I should probably get rid of the outer tin that is on the elevators and just use the chain and paddles. Am I correct in this thinking?
Levi

[Lambee10]

I like the idea of the sawhorses...


My temp log deck looks like something from Dr. Seuss.  It has rail ties on top of cut logs on top of bricks.  solid but very temporary.

[bandmiller2]

Levi,I would try the grain elevator as is I've never had trouble with "big stuff" in the sawdust,you could always modify it later if there was a problem.Frank C.

[bandmiller2]

Lambee, the saw horses I made used a 4x8"  oak beam and oak 2x4" for the legs everything drilled and bolted using all thread. Frank C.

[Lambee10]

thanks Bandmiller

I got an issue with my mill that I hope someone can help me on.

As I run log or cant through the saw it starts off well and straight but it starts pushing the setworks back so by the time it gets to the end it is much thinner than it started.  I finally mounted the saw gauge that comes with the foley belsaw and I can watch it as it moves down the track and it will move down (or farther from the saw) as it passes.

Bottom line is I cannot get straight cuts.  I set the lead per the manual and checked for level. 

I am somewhat machanically inclined but new to milling so I may have to ask to clarify some of the terms.

thanks..

[beenthere]

Lamb
Do you have Stan Lunstrum's circular saw book? 

Can read pdf here, and it will give you good info on mill setup, inclucing terminology.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf

[captain_crunch]

First thing I would check set first knee even with gear notch (say 2 or3) on carrage make sure they are all in same alignment next on each knee there is a C shaped clamp with 2 1/4 in bolts with lock nuts held to knee by 2 3/8 thru bolts that you loosen then set friction on carrage drag they are kinda fragile and if knee gets clobbered by log will bend  not keeping enough drag on carrage settings. Also never flip cant against knees they are not strong enough for this

[Lambee10]

CC- I know what you at talking about.  The gears are aligned but I was afraid to put to tighten the c channel to tight.  I do have some slop in the movement.   Is that friction piece and the gear set the only thing to keep that from sliding backwards?

Been there- I should have asked for that for Christmas...  I will check it out

[bandmiller2]

Lambee,I know you set the lead acording to Belsaw but its not an exact thing and possibly you don't have enough.The vibration of the carriage as it moves down the track tends to contribute.I don't own a belsaw but there should be a way to tighten the setworks so they don't move as easily.The back of the saw should just tick the face of the cant on gigback,if it makes consistant marks that a sign of not enough lead.Good form to check for side play on the carriage mah have to shim the wheels. Too much lead will tend to pull the cant away from the last clamp. Frank C.

[apm]

Hi Lambee,
If you've got the board splitter set too tight up against the cant it will put pressure on the feedworks and force them back. As they push back, the saw runs out and makes the cant even tighter against the splitter and compounds the problem. Make sure your splitter is not rubbing hard against the cant by sawing into the log a foot or so past the saw, then shut everything down and check the splitter.

Good luck!
Greg

[Lambee10]

Thanks for the things to check.  I just read an updated post for Saw Tooth maintenace for Yooperdirt and there were good points on there also.  I do need to learm more on teeth maintenance and sharpening.   However, I think the lead may be my first check and elimination. 

that post also covered the saw leads and I think I will pop the old plugs out and once I get new ones cut and oiled.

When I did adjust the lead last weekend I did not check the board splitter.  I was looking at too many other things....

Looking forward to a 4 day weekend so I can see this saw in the daylight!

Thanks again, keep the advice coming and Merry Christmas to all of you.

[Lambee10]

Bandmiller- I went back and re set the lead a little more and then ran a level along the blade to see how even it was to the board splitter and it was a bit off. (thanks apm). I lined all that up and started looking at the set works.  when the handle is released and set back against the stops so I can move the carriage forward the little gizmo that sits in the gears raises up and does not touch any of the gears.  I can grab the set works and push it back.  That, I think was my problem with not getting straight cuts.  As the saw pushed throught the log it pushed the whole deal back away from the saw. I did some adjusting and tightening and ran some junk wood through it and low and behold it was the same dimension on the front and the end.

I am trying some better stuff soon and will see if is still works but thanks for the advice and help.

[bandmiller2]

Lambee, thats good news,most circular mill problems can be solved buy taking the time to study the problem, there a pretty simple device. Have a good new year my friend and keep em sharp. Frank C.

[apm]

Great news, Lambee. It looks like you've jumped in with both feet. File away in the back of your mind, after you get everything set and running the way you want it, if things change on you, 99% of the time it relates back to saw tooth maintenance. Nothing will correct for a dull saw. You'll learn the sound of sharp teeth soon enough.

Greg

[captain_crunch]

Sandy Claws brought me new camera just in time for pics of last of Insence cedar milling
 
here is pic of the shorted dogs I made for bigger logs
 

[eastberkshirecustoms]

Has anyone ever used a grain elevator(chain with cups or paddles) off of a grain combine for sawdust removal?
Levi

I don't have any pictures as it was years ago, but the old Lyons circular mill we had on the farm used exactly those for sawdust removal. There were two elevators. One under the blade that fed the second elevator, which dumped into a trailer. The were both scavenged from an old McCormick tag along combine. If I remember right, each elevator had a small auger on the end that fed the paddle shoot.

[Lambee10]

, if things change on you, 99% of the time it relates back to saw tooth maintenance. Nothing will correct for a dull saw. You'll learn the sound of sharp teeth soon enough.


OK- I think I need to learn more about sharpening the teeth.    Anyone have suggestions on this?  I am pretty sure I am not hearing the sound of Sharp Teeth!

[bandmiller2]

Lambee,the easiest thing is to compare your bits on the saw to a new one of the same type.A jockey electric sharpener is the cats pooper but costly.Myself I use a Dexter file guide,basically an aluminum handle with rollers to keep the file at the propper angle.The big problem with freehand filing is keeping the tooth straight across as folks have a tendancy to rock the file.I've never really mastered the art of swaging outher than repairing a damaged bit. By the time my bits should be swaged they have earned their keep and I just replace them. Frank C.

[apm]

Your best bet is to start with a new set of teeth to establish the saw works well. Simonds is about the only game in town, anymore, I think. You buy the teeth based on your saw. It'll be something like " 3-8/9 9/32"  That'll be "3" the style of tooth in your saw (could also be another number like 2 or 2-1/2, or a letter like B)  8/9 will be the gauge of your saw plate. All saw plates are tapered, thicker at the center, or "eye" and thinner on the rim. Your saw will probably be 8 gauge at the center, then 9 gauge at the rim, hence 8/9. The fractional number, 9/32" will be the kerf of the bit you choose. 9/32" is a good compromise, general purpose bit. There are different type of specialty bits, like standall, but you won't need anything like that to start. If you carefully clean your saw, near the eye, it'll often be marked as to the gauge and style. If not, Simonds website illustrates the different pocket styles, etc.

A circle saw is actually a system comprised of three components, the bits, the shanks and the plate. If the plate has problems, you or I can't do much about it. That's where the saw doc comes in. But if the plate is OK, commit your attention to the shanks and bits. The shanks are actually springs. Not only do they hold the bit tightly in place, they also apply a stretching action at the rim of the saw. It's important for all of the shanks to be as close to the same tension as possible. You don't normally want to run a mix of old and new shanks. The shank will also wear over time and become thinner. Ideally, the shank will be thicker than the plate of the saw, with good sharp edges in the gullet. One of the purposes of the shank is to contain the saw dust and carry it out of the kerf. If the shank is worn thin and the edges are rounded off, the sawdust will spill from the shank and fill the kerf. When that happens you create heat and a whole host of other problems. New bits will have the correct geometry for most situations. When you hear and feel the way they cut, you will know immediately when they need attention. In sharpening, your best bet is to slowly and carefully try to duplicate the original geometry while removing as little material as possible to return them to a sharp condition. Teeth are tapered from the front to the rear. As you sharpen them, the kerf actually becomes narrower. You should be able to get several sharpenings without worrying about the kerf thickness as long as you haven't damaged any teeth enough to have to remove a lot of material. Once sharpened back a certain distance, if you want to continue using them, you'll need a swage. A swage is simply a tool used to widen the cutting edge of the tooth to reestablish the proper kerf for clearance of the plate in the cut. Using a swage can be a little of black magic and definitely takes a lot of trial and error. A lot of guys replace the bits rather than swage them. If you choose to swage, getting every tooth as close to the same width as possible is the challenge. Some teeth will spread to one side or the other and appear to be the same width, but have in effect created a "set" that is not desirable.

Use new teeth initially, sharpen them by duplicating the original geometry with a file and stay away from dirty bark logs.

There are chrome bits available. They seem to last longer between sharpenings, but can't be sharpened with a file. You probably should stay away from them in the beginning. The "go to" mechanical sharpener is the Andrus. Meadows sawmills owns the rights to it, now. They are available used, on ebay, occassionaly. They are fairly foolproof and require no electricity, but you can get by with just a file after some practice.

A sharp saw is a pleasure, a dull saw is a pain.

Greg

[captain_crunch]

I did a little altering to my Andrus sharpner and now use a wore down 4 in air cutt off wheel and it will sharpen my chrome teeth

[Lambee10]

thanks Greg, Frank and CC.

Greg: you make a good point in starting with new and having a base line to what sharp should be.  Since this mill was in the woods unused for 15+ years I do not have the tool to remove the teeth. I will look at Simonds and see what I can get.
I apprieciate the time you took to explain the process and details of the blade.  It answered a lot of questions...but problably not all of them.

[apm]

Last I heard, Timberking still had some of the saw wrenches in stock, if it's the original saw supplied with the mill. I got mine from Payne saw. I'm sure Menominee would have them as well. You need to know what type saw you've got before you buy the wrench. The different styles use different wrenches. If you can post a picture of the teeth of the saw, someone on here can undoubtedly narrow it down for you.

Capt. I'd love to see a picture of the modifications made to your Andrus sharpener.

Greg

[captain_crunch]

Greg
Will try for pics tomorrow not difficult to do  mine had the laminated file pieces and chrome laughed at em so I first tryed a wore down 4 in grinder disc and it worked  but was too close to hub  but cutt off wheel is flat so that worked just needs to be worn down enough  not to hit ring poor people just have poor ways
Brian

[snowshoveler]

Now you just know I am going to copy this sharpener thing.
And Crunchy posts pics that I can copy.
 Chris

[Lambee10]

Greg:

I was going to PM you but I figured someone else may be learning from this thread...

would you replace both the bit and shanks or can I reuse the shanks?  Yep- I am cheap.

[apm]

You can reuse the shanks over & over again. For a hobby sawyer you may never wear out a set. That's assuming the shanks you're currently using are still effective. You may need to "rust reaper" them prior to trying to remove them if the saw has been sitting a long time. The wrench is pretty self evident, but the shank just twists out of the saw, bringing the tooth with it. Go ahead and completely remove the shank, this first time, so that you can clean and lubricate the pocket it goes in. When you are ready, mount a tooth and twist the shank back into place. It should start pretty easily and then get tighter the farther you twist it. The last 1/4" or so of travel is usually pretty snug. You may even need to tap the wrench with the heel of your hand to seat the tooth against the shoulder. Once installed, I've always taken the handle of the wrench and tapped the gullet of the shank straight down into it's socket, just for kicks. I don't know if it helps or not, but it makes me feel better!

Check your shank after installation to make sure it's in the center of the tooth. If not, it will need to be tapped to the appropriate side of the saw to center it. Again, the handle of the wrench will move it sideways if necessary. Check the shanks to make sure the gullet area is not badly rounded off, but has nice square edges. I've heard of guys filing them back square if they were worn, but I don't think I've ever tried that.

All of the shanks should go back in with approximately the same effort/tightness. if a couple are looser than the others you can lay them on an anvil and put a couple of heavy center punch marks on each side, symmetrical to each other, and that will tighten them up in the socket.

Tell us a little about your saw; what diameter? how many teeth? what style tooth?

Greg

[Lambee10]

I did not think the shanks could be worn out.  the Book from Standford Lunstrum states they may get thin over time but I cannot imagine they would with this mill.  I am sure he is talking a high capacity producing unit.

I have not stopped long enough to study the blade for numbers becasue it is dark when I leave the house and dark when I get home during the week.

However, I mentioned earlier in the thread I actually have the orignal owners manual and the sawblade parts list has the 40" diameter blade listed as using IP Tooth (style B- 8/9 gauge- 9/32 Kerf).  If I remember right it has 24 teeth.  Looks like the bits come in boxes of 100.  that should do me for a while- me thinks.

[apm]

When I bought my mill, new, in 1985 or 86, B.H. Payne was supplying the saws to Belsaw. That's what they told me, anyway. I didn't buy a saw with my mill at the time because I had a couple of saws already from a previous mill. Later, I bought one of the original Belsaw saws from a forum member, here. They're just a little different in that they don't have holes for drive pins and they have a low number of teeth to keep the power requirements low for the Belsaw mills. The center hole is also a little smaller than standard. I ran a Hoe 48" saw on mine for years but had to use a bushing on the mandrell to allow for the larger hole. I think 40" was standard from Belsaw. The one I bought is a "B" 8/9.

Greg

[dail_h]

lambee,,, thats the saw i'm running on my Belsaw,,40", 24 tooth , B8 / 9. my sawdoc repitched it so it bites a little better. is bout all my 3600 Ford can handel in poplar

[Lambee10]

Dail
What kind of HP do you figure you are getting out of the PTO for the 3600?

I hope sharp bits will help the huffin and puffin I got on a few bigger oaks.

[dail_h]

Hey lanbee,
  think the book calls for 45 /48 hp or somethin like that. but thats new ,, mine's a little tired. do run straight exasut when sawin ,, helps a little. pint of kerosene in each 5 gal diesel helps too

[captain_crunch]

Strange ??
We took a 50 in Hoe blade off my Belsaw and put a 46inX36 tooth Simons on it and don't remember a bushing

[bandmiller2]

Its tough to mill underpowered,the way Belsaws are set up they need a left turning engine.The best solution is to find a large diesel farm tractor with worn out tires,no three point,or something else to make it not desireable as a field tractor and leave it hooked to the mill. Frank C.

[captain_crunch]

At one time my belsaw was ran off a Ford 300 6 out of a lumber carrier which had a 4 speed with a Reverser (johnson bar) which gave you 4 reverses which is correct rotation for Belsaw opperation. Also industrial engines generally have a govnor

[dail_h]

Captin, the 48" that i got with the mill,has a larger center hole,, owner said he had bushin machined,, n sawed with the blade,, but we didnt find it with the mill parts,, or "on the nail" where was supposed to be,lol

[captain_crunch]

Know what you mean every time I find something like this  the key piece seems to have gotten lost