Author Topic: Old Jonsered I.D Help....Pics Added (Read 1045 times)

Coon · « **on:** November 01, 2011, 09:00:32 pm »

I had an old Jonsered saw given to me a while back and have not had a chance to look at it till now. This saw is pre-chain brake era and has the metal body. The only thing I have seen that is wrong with the saw is the kill switch is broken. I don't know what size it is but have found the id tag that has the number 628614 on it. What model and size is it? Haven't found anything through google.

Bad.

Will get a pic of it later tonight.

Ianab · « **Reply #1 on:** November 02, 2011, 12:35:59 am »

I'll take a guess and say it's a Model 70.

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/3a55a2ed7b64a45388256b69007f99e7?OpenDocument

If it's not that, it's a close relative.

Ian

sablatnic · « **Reply #2 on:** November 02, 2011, 12:50:23 am »

My guess would be a Jonsereds 52.
I've got one myself, but I can't go and check it as it is dark outside.
Do you know if yours is electronic or has contact points?

Brucer · « **Reply #3 on:** November 02, 2011, 01:09:29 am »

It has a lot of similarities to my 1981 70E, which was the electronic ignition version of the 70. About the only thing that's different is the cowling around the starter cord.

Stuff that matches mine:
- rear handle, handle mount, and throttle.
- front handle mount.
- chain cover.
- fuel cap.
- chain oil cap.
- filter compartment knob.
- spark plug cover.

This may be a superficial comparison -- different models in any given era tend to look the same.

Coon · « **Reply #4 on:** November 02, 2011, 03:09:53 am »

I don't know whether it has electronic ignition or points. Will know more tomorrow when I dig into it a bit. I found a kill switch off an old homelite saw that I have here for parts and will put it on. I know with the old switch buggered I had no spark. May have to dig into it further. The guy that gave me the saw told me that it ran the last he tried it just that the switch gave up the ghost. He said the saw had a rebuild just before he got it and he used it to cut maybe a couple of cords of firewood. Said it was too heavey for him and he bought a lighter saw. Had it sitting around in his garage for a few years as you can tell from the white oxidization on the metal where the paint is gone. Seems to have some great compression when I pull it over.

I want this ol girl running as a good back up saw.

What mix should I use in it? My other saws I use 50:1 but shouldn't I use like 32:1 or 40:1 in the ol' timer? It is the first of the project saws that I have. The next saw is clearly and antique but you will all have to wait an see.

snowstorm · « **Reply #5 on:** November 02, 2011, 07:13:31 am »

i also say 70 the 52 was all red. looks like it was dipped in saltwater

Corley5 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 02, 2011, 07:54:01 am »

The 49 was all red. Maybe some 52s were too but the ones I've been around were red and black. This saw looks like a 52 to me.

Coon · « **Reply #7 on:** November 02, 2011, 02:00:49 pm »

From doing a little research I found that the saw could be a few different models. I will be going out to the workshop in a few and will find more specs on a few of the things... carb... electronic or points.... etc.

mad murdock · « **Reply #8 on:** November 02, 2011, 02:36:12 pm »

when I first started cutting in the woods, my brother and I had a 52E (red and black, that looked like a spitting image of your pic. The other saw was a promac 10-10 automatic.

Coon · « **Reply #9 on:** November 02, 2011, 07:18:37 pm »

Well it definately is an E model whatever size it is because it has the electronic ignition. I have been cleaning up the saw and will be checking for spark soon. I just came in to put on some warmer clothes. Guess that means I am not working hard enough eh?

It has the Tillotson HS2 10 508 carb on it which is probably original.

Coon · « **Reply #10 on:** November 02, 2011, 10:50:03 pm »

I got a nice blue spark on the saw with no kill switch.

I hooked up a switch and called it quits on it as I had other things to do. Now to get the saw to fire.

Tomorrow I will give it a shot of prime and see if I can make some 2 stroke smoke. I don't know how many years the saw has sat so I will find out whether I need a carb kit next. Hope not.... this redneck hates to spend money on anything.

Brucer · « **Reply #11 on:** November 02, 2011, 11:56:39 pm »

Electronic ignition places the age around early 80's or later.

The kill switch on my old 70E just shorts the ignition coil to ground. Leave the wire off the switch and the saw will run. Touch it to the housing to kill the saw (ear insulated gloves!). Or you can just use the choke to stop it -- that's what I did while waiting for a new switch.

Coon · « **Reply #12 on:** November 03, 2011, 03:04:17 am »

Brucer, you read my mind.

I actually have put on a new switch just haven't checked to see if it works or not. Hoping I don't need a carb kit on it....

What is a rough adjustment on the carb for the H an L adjustments? I just need a ball park and will adjust it to run right from there? What mix should I be using. In my other saws I normally run 50:1 with synthetic oil and add a bit of methylhydrate to the gas before mixing in the two-cycle. I use methylhydrate in all my gas up here as it has solved some major condensation and water problems. I have a bit of 32:1 mix with synthetic 2 cycle oil and fuel stabilizer here I could try.

Corley5 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 03, 2011, 07:18:08 am »

We ran 50-1 mix in the 70s and 52 that I was involved with.

NCFarmboy · « **Reply #14 on:** November 03, 2011, 08:42:44 am »

1 turn to 1 1/4 turn on both the high and low screws. The 32 to 1 mix should be fine to try and start it. I used to run 36 to 1 in all my stuff mainly because my Homelite blower called for 32to1. That was years ago and mixing oil has been improved. My 1978 4200 Poulan called for 16 to 1. Withe the new oils I run 40 to 1. Be sure to final tune with the mix you are going to run.
Shep

Coon · « **Reply #15 on:** November 03, 2011, 07:12:50 pm »

Well, the ole gal ~~purrs like a kitten~~ barks like a dog.

She smokes like the dickens too with the 32:1 mix I got her set for.

I will retune the carb for either 40:1 or 50:1 once I use up this bit of fuel I have. It took a bit of coaxing with the primer bottle in both the plug hole and carb to get her going and sucking on its own. Now it starts on the first or second pull. Sharpened the chain up and made a couple of cuts in a couple of pieces of firewood. Good to go now.

Brucer · « **Reply #16 on:** November 04, 2011, 02:14:10 am »

For the 70E ...

Using regular 2 cycle oil, the book calls for a 1:25 ratio.
Using 2 cycle oil complying with BIA TC-W, a 1:40 ratio is recommended.

Spark plug gap ... 0.020 inches, or 0.5 mm.

Carburetor ...
High speed screw is 3/4 to 1 turn from the bottom.
Low speed screw is 1 to 1-1/4 turn from the bottom.
Don't set either screw lower than the minimum recommended or you'll seize up the engine.

Don't crank the engine with the spark plug removed from the system. If you need to pull the plug to make sure it's firing, be very sure the plug is grounded. Otherwise you could fry the electronics.

The bar oil flow can be adjusted. Lay the saw on its side and look at the bottom -- you'll see a hole about 1/4 of the way over from the chain drive. There's an adjusting screw in the bottom of the hole. Turn it clockwise to decrease the oil flow, and counterclockwise to increase the flow. Normal factory setting is 1-1/2 to 2 turns from the bottom (full clockwise).

There should be a "chain catcher" pin below and just in front of the drive sprocket. Remove the three mounting screws and you'll find a chain oil strainer.

Coon · « **Reply #17 on:** November 04, 2011, 02:45:04 am »

Thank you for the info Brucer, much appreciated. I ran the saw a bit and will go by your reccomendations. I will mix it 40:1.... kinda figured 50:1 it might be kinda scarce on oil and run a bit lean no matter how the carb is set.

I will check the oil strainer as there is most likely 25 years worht of crap built up in it. I can however see that it is pumping plenty of oil still as the rusty chain was lubed up fairly decent after running it for a couple of minutes.

If this saw is anyhting like my 630 Jonsered it will serve me for a long time yet. From the looks of this saw compared to my 630 the ol 630 has done alot more work.

The guy that owned the saw previous to me had it for a number of years and only used it to cut a couple of cords of wood, then it sat around like a welfare bum.

I can't say that for my 630.

The next saw will be alot more work to get running but it has a lengthy history in the family.

I will start a new thread for this homelite project as it is a beast of it's own class.

thecfarm · « **Reply #18 on:** November 04, 2011, 07:38:55 am »

Another saved form the scrap heap,to do the job it was designed for.

Coon · « **Reply #19 on:** November 04, 2011, 01:36:44 pm »

thecfarm, Just wait till you see the next project I am going to start on. The old homelite has been in the family for many many years and could probably tell you a logging story or three. It takes a good size man to be able to handle the saw that's for sure.

Heck I just may get a short video of this ol' Jonsered running today.

Magnesium Mary will be happy to show you a little preview of what she does.

Brad Thompson · « **Reply #20 on:** November 27, 2011, 11:24:33 am »

Guys, I think this saw is a 52 or maybe a 521. The air filter cover is not right for a 70. The 70 cover goes down the side a bit, but the 49sp and 52 use the flat top cover. If I remember right, the 521 was the same.

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Author Topic: Old Jonsered I.D Help....Pics Added (Read 1045 times)