Author Topic: What type of saw chain do you use (Read 2514 times)

T Welsh · « **on:** October 18, 2011, 06:26:00 am »

I am curious about what type of chain every body is using on there saws
my favorite is 72lgx Oregon square chisel full comp. I also use Stihl rapid rsc full chisel. Tim

Cut4fun · « **Reply #1 on:** October 18, 2011, 06:40:50 am »

I still have rolls of oregon CL real square chisel full comp 3/8 and RS RSK RSC round chisel, oregon LG 325 and 325 RSC, then PS3 3/8LP

JHBC · « **Reply #2 on:** October 18, 2011, 10:37:29 am »

On my Stihls 20"-28", I use Oregon 72LGX, and my Huskys 32"-42", I use Oregon 68LX or 68JX. Full chisel, but not square.

John Mc · « **Reply #3 on:** October 18, 2011, 12:46:47 pm »

"square" chisel would be the Oregon 72CL. (the tooth is sharpened with a square-edge file, rather than a round file.) Gives a bit of extra cutting performance over "round ground" chisel chain, but tougher top sharpen by hand. I've only used one once, on a GOL instructor's saw, just to see what it was like.

The 072lgx is a round chisel chain You sharpen it with a round file, but the "corner" of the tooth (where the top plate meets the side plate) is still square, rather than rounded off or chamfered like a semi-chisel (or "micro-chisel") chain.

I use either the 073lgx or 073lpx (the 073lgx is just the .058 gauge version of the 072lgx. Don't ask me why, but just about everyone around here seems to use .058 gauge chains.) The lpx has a bit more anti-kickback provisions in the design (but is still nothing like the worthless consumer safety chain). To tell you the truth, I can't tell the difference between the two when cutting. When running .325 pitch, I've used Oregon's 21LPX chain (round chisel, a .325 pitch version of 72LPX)

I've also used Bailey's "Woodland Pro" chain: 28RC for the .325 pitch, and 38RC for .375 pitch chain. Both are round chisel, seem to cut similarly to the Oregon chain. I've heard this is just re-badged Carlton/Total. (6 or 7 years ago I did have some Carlton chain that had hard spots in it that ruined a few raker files, but I've never run into the problem since.)

If I recall, the sharpening angles on the Woodland Pro chain are a bit different from the Oregon... and it did not like being sharpened to Oregon specs.

nmurph · « **Reply #4 on:** October 18, 2011, 03:59:31 pm »

Quote from: T Welsh on October 18, 2011, 06:26:00 am

I am curious about what type of chain every body is using on there saws
my favorite is 72lgx Oregon square chisel full comp. I also use Stihl rapid rsc full chisel. Tim

LGX is not square chisel. It is chisel, but not square filed chisel; that would be CL

BobR · « **Reply #5 on:** October 18, 2011, 05:07:35 pm »

Stihl RMC (yellow) chain works great on my MS 261 with 16" bar.
Oregon 90S (non safety) works great on my pole saw. Bailey's sells this by the link. I've not seen it advertized anywhere else.

mad murdock · « **Reply #6 on:** October 18, 2011, 05:14:06 pm »

I run chisel tooth full skip chain on my 372XP, I cut mostly Doug Fir, and it cuts like butter, the hardwood I do cut, is mostly big leaf maple, and it cuts easy as well. When I mill I use the woodsman pro ripping chain that Bailey's sells. On my smaller saws I use semi-skip semi-chisel (half round), as it can take the dirt better, and since I use the smaller saws for alot of the dirtier cutting, that works best for me. I have run Carlton, Wlindsor, Oregon, Woodsman Pro, they all seem similar. I don't see much of a difference between chains, they all seem pretty good, as long as they are set up properly, they all cut great.

mooleycow · « **Reply #7 on:** October 20, 2011, 08:12:43 pm »

I bought a stihl farm boss ms290. After reading the post here I get the idea the green chain on my saw is a product liability chain. Think after reading I may need a rsc yellow chain. New here, don't use one much, except hurricane cleanup. Used to live in the mountains(meadows of dan Virginia) cut my share. You folks are right on about helping people you meet to learn about cutting wood. Thanks for being here.

beenthere · « **Reply #8 on:** October 20, 2011, 08:24:07 pm »

Not sure why you think that, or how you think that. How is it a product liability to you?

AdkStihl · « **Reply #9 on:** October 20, 2011, 08:26:30 pm »

Stihl .325 RSC on the MS270WB , .404 RSLF on the 08 & Oregon S-series 91 Low Profile Chamfer chisel on the Eager Beaver.

T Welsh · « **Reply #10 on:** October 20, 2011, 08:59:47 pm »

Quote from: mooleycow on October 20, 2011, 08:12:43 pm

I bought a stihl farm boss ms290. After reading the post here I get the idea the green chain on my saw is a product liability chain. Think after reading I may need a rsc yellow chain. New here, don't use one much, except hurricane cleanup. Used to live in the mountains(meadows of dan Virginia) cut my share. You folks are right on about helping people you meet to learn about cutting wood. Thanks for being here.

Most of the chains on this topic are pro chains with little or no kick back features, be aware that if you change your (green tie strap) chain for (yellow) you will be increasing cutting,but you will also increase kick back, be safe and look into whats right for you and your saw, if your cutting mostly firewood go with a chipper type chain they are more forgiving than chisel chain when you hit the dirt (we all do it) Tim

Al_Smith · « **Reply #11 on:** October 20, 2011, 10:19:50 pm »

I can't rememeber the numbers but most times it's some form of round chisel chain usually Oregon , except the antiques .Those if they are gear drives is whatever they came with . They're for show not to cut much wood with .They will of course but at a somewhat "relaxed " pace .

acco1840 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 20, 2011, 10:49:21 pm »

Stihl full chisel. anything else is crap.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #13 on:** October 22, 2011, 11:08:45 am »

Stihl is good chain ,no doubt but it should be for the price .

Oh sure it's harder and might last longer but it will still break cutters and bend drivers just like all the rest .

Chain is just like oil which I won't get into .You have people lining up on both sides of the line to argue or evangelise about any brand made .Funny thing is they all seem to be able to cut wood .

T Welsh · « **Reply #14 on:** October 22, 2011, 05:59:44 pm »

Al. I second that!!! The sharpest,cheapest chain works for me. we go through a 100' reel a year and it would more if we didnt keep it the ties straps under lock and key. our guys have habit of trashing chains

Tim

Al_Smith · « **Reply #15 on:** October 23, 2011, 07:52:29 am »

Well you know I try to refrain from getting anal about chain ,saws ,oil or politics .Although sometimes just because of the orneriness within me I like to stir the pot just a little .

I'll never bad mouth Stihl chain with the exception of anti kick back .On that I'll opinionate on anybodys safety chain .Then again although it's not for me I can see were some feel it's safer and that's fine .

I personally think Oregon micro chisel is a faster cutting chain than Stihl chisel but again that's just an opinion . Now don't get me wrong because I've got plenty of Stihl chain loops .If I were in the business of using a chainsaw to make a living I'd probabley use more of it but I'm not so I don't .

Pricey stuff but I hear through reliable sources that in areas of the PNW they sell it in competitive prices with Oregon which here amongst the corn fields they do not .

Then again Lawdy what has happened to the price of chain now days ? I about had sticker shock when I looked up the price through Baileys for a either a 105 or 109 driver loop of .404 chisel for an 084 .It wasn't so long ago I bought 143 driver loop for about half what it sells for today .

Just Me · « **Reply #16 on:** October 25, 2011, 07:15:52 pm »

I buy up those "Al Gore" safety chains as the old fellow I buy them from calls them as he will not sell a chain saw with them on. He's an old farmer selling Dolmars in his retirement, and it you need a lesson in right wing politics... Whew!

Anyway... Those chains are great for cutting into houses and doing log work just because they do not cut too aggressively, they do not pull into the cut. They also seem to be able to hit more nails and keep working, probably because they do not allow a big bite. I screw them up and throw them away. He sell them to me for $5 brand new, so why sharpen? Faster than a sawzall for sure......

On my XP I am thinking of trying a skip tooth. My buddy has one on his and says it cuts hardwood firewood faster, but he's just a carpenter like me. Can someone fill me in on a skip tooth and when you should use it? I'm in the dark.

Larry

Al_Smith · « **Reply #17 on:** October 25, 2011, 07:50:52 pm »

Al Gore didn't have a thing to do with safety chains ,that was Ralph Nader .He was also famous for stopping production for few years of convertable automobiles ,Corvairs and just about anything that could be used in a dangerous way to hurt one another .In other words because he felt that we collectively weren't smart enough to protect ourselves from ourselves the government should do it for us .

The only thing Al Gore is famous for is inventing the internet plus supposidely being an ultra conserative eco type guy while all long having a 10 thousand dollar a month electric bill .Evidently he and Tipper must have disagreed .

Just Me · « **Reply #18 on:** October 26, 2011, 05:45:29 am »

Al, to this old guy, and if you met him you couldn't help but like him, Al Gore represents everthing that is wrong with this country.

Hence his "AL Gore" chains.

He cracks me up every time I am there......

Larry

roadiestar · « **Reply #19 on:** February 07, 2012, 06:32:54 pm »

What ever is on sale

baloo75 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 07, 2012, 07:43:03 pm »

I currently use a .325 RMC on my MS280, but several times I have pondered going to an RSC. I stay on top of the sharpening and have never had a problem, but still am curious about how much faster a full chisel would be. I only cut firewood but am really good about rolling logs to stay out of the dirt, or use my timberjack. My question being, with a 20" bar if I get into something that takes up the entire bar will I have problems with power. As long as I don't stand on the saw it does well now, but with the aggression of the full chisel I don't know...

Ward Barnes · « **Reply #21 on:** February 07, 2012, 08:09:56 pm »

Howdy Folks:

On my MS 390 w/18 inch bar I went from the Stihl green chain to the Stihl yellow chain (33 RSC) the price went from $17.00 for the green to $28.00 for the yellow. Unless someone gives me a greenie and it is all I have available I'll never go back. The yellow is worth the price difference.

God Bless, Ward and Mary.

Ohio_Bill · « **Reply #22 on:** February 07, 2012, 08:17:31 pm »

I like Sharp Chain , and don’t care for dull .

John Mc · « **Reply #23 on:** February 07, 2012, 10:35:48 pm »

Quote from: baloo75 on February 07, 2012, 07:43:03 pm

still am curious about how much faster a full chisel would be... My question being, with a 20" bar if I get into something that takes up the entire bar will I have problems with power. As long as I don't stand on the saw it does well now, but with the aggression of the full chisel I don't know...

A chisel chain is more efficient at cutting than a semi-chisel or "micro-chisel" chain. With both types properly sharpened, the RSC will take less power to do the same job. Basically, it cuts faster because it's more efficient, not because it's "more aggressive".

lumberjack48 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 08, 2012, 10:45:42 am »

If you use a full chisel and know how to keep it sharp, you'll never go back to a semi-chisel. When your cutting 18"+ wood, don't bury your whole bar, work your saw up and over and down at no time using the whole length of the bar at once, this keeps RPM up and chain speed which means your cutting again as fast. I used a 16" bar, more chain speed, more power, quicker to sharpen, it was my choice. If i ran in to a lot of 30"+ wood I'd put my 20" bar on.

I personally thing a full chisel is easier and quicker to sharpen then a semi-chisel

Al_Smith · « **Reply #25 on:** February 08, 2012, 11:16:11 am »

I think it's a learning curve type situation .Some of the posters are just not familiar with chain designs much less how to file a chain .It's of no fault of their own ,they just haven't been exposed to it .

I'm not a betting man but if I were I'd say given enough time those who have a desire to learn to file will become pretty good it .

I'd also say with comparrison of chisel and semi they'll soon learn that what they might appear to loose in time by having to file chisel just a tad more often than semi that the cut speed will more than make up for the file time .

mad murdock · « **Reply #26 on:** February 11, 2012, 02:09:17 am »

wow! them stihl chains are pricey! Am I glad I am not stuck on that stuff

Ii have used Carlton, Windsor, Oregon, Woodsman Pro et. al. For day to day logging, I liked the windsor chain, it lasted well filed quick and sharp, and was reasonably priced. I don't think even today that I have spent more than 15 or 20 bucks on a loop of chain. That is with a 24-28" bar. Sounds like someone is getting ripped off at those prices, but then again, maybe it is the location.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #27 on:** February 11, 2012, 08:00:19 am »

I buy what I get a deal on,I've got a breaker and rivet spinner so modifying chain legnth is no big deal.When we talk of chisel we should specify square or round ground.True square chisel is awsome but you really need a good grinder to sharpen it reliably,its a rare bird who can do it justice with a flat file.Most of the time I just file round chisel.As with most things they charge what the market will bare,northwest guys will pay less due to competition and quantity used. Frank C.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #28 on:** February 11, 2012, 08:29:01 am »

From the info over the net on several forums it appears the west coast crowd in the timber country have the benefit of more competative pricing on Stihl stuff including the chains .

As a general rule those of us in lower impact areas for use of saws are not afforded that luxury .However even with that in longgevity of use it's hard to beat the durability of Stihl chains .Never the less even considering that factor no matter who made the chain ,rocks and tramp metal will kill them all just the same .

So considering all it's not just initial price of the item to be considered .Durabilty plays a big factor but then that choice is up to the buyer .I mean if you don't rock them a Stihl chain will go about twice as long or more than Oregon and that's a known fact .

Now I have 45-50 operational saws which collectively get a fair amount of usage but individually do not .Some are wearing Stihl chains but most have Oregon or Carlton .Because of that factor plus some are just collector saws I cannot justify the increased costs of Stihl chain .If however I used a chainsaw to make a living I'd seriously consider using all Stihl chain .That's just one mans opinion of many though .

mad murdock · « **Reply #29 on:** February 13, 2012, 03:31:11 pm »

Well stated Al, and to be fair to Stihl chain, I have to admit I have never used it. Never had a Stihl dealer worth a darn when I was logging full time, and having used Stihl saws in the woods from time to time, though they are ok, I have a personal preference for the swede saws.

Mebbe I will have to try some out next time i get some chain. I usually can cut 10-15 truckloads of logs(say 40mbf or so,) before I retire a chain. I file it right back to the witness line, then put a new one on.

Migal · « **Reply #30 on:** February 20, 2012, 02:21:09 am »

i didnt know al gore had time to sharpen chains let alone invent a internet

oh on the stihl saw you are the repairman if it breaks heck of a saw!!!

Al_Smith · « **Reply #31 on:** February 20, 2012, 05:24:08 am »

Well you have to remember Al Gore kind of embellished things a tad bit .He took credit for a lot of things he didn't do .

Seems he left that guy chad hanging in Florida and thus off went Al Gore to get a nobel prize .Only in America .

tcrew · « **Reply #32 on:** February 21, 2012, 01:54:23 am »

Quote from: baloo75 on February 07, 2012, 07:43:03 pm

I currently use a .325 RMC on my MS280, but several times I have pondered going to an RSC. I stay on top of the sharpening and have never had a problem, but still am curious about how much faster a full chisel would be. I only cut firewood but am really good about rolling logs to stay out of the dirt, or use my timberjack. My question being, with a 20" bar if I get into something that takes up the entire bar will I have problems with power. As long as I don't stand on the saw it does well now, but with the aggression of the full chisel I don't know...

I run a MS280 with 20inch RSC chain and the saw pulls great. I use it for firewood. And im kinda anal about my logs not having dirt,and if so knock it off and clean em up a bit b4 i cut. Big difference, but like every one says here, if you get in to dirt, its over fast for the sharpness on a RSC. 4 me i love RSC, and my 280 with 20 inch bar. Try it and see how you like it. Good luck. and saw safe.

DeerMeadowFarm · « **Reply #33 on:** February 22, 2012, 03:36:32 pm »

Quote from: baloo75 on February 07, 2012, 07:43:03 pm

My question being, with a 20" bar if I get into something that takes up the entire bar will I have problems with power. As long as I don't stand on the saw it does well now, but with the aggression of the full chisel I don't know...

As Lumberjack stated, the efficiency of the chain is more of a factor than "aggressiveness". I just put a Stihl 18" RS chain on my 346XP and it was like my saw had a motor job done to it; it cut much better and faster. In fact, I cut a lot more logs per tankful than I was with my old safety chains.

Quote from: Ward Barnes on February 07, 2012, 08:09:56 pm

Howdy Folks:

On my MS 390 w/18 inch bar I went from the Stihl green chain to the Stihl yellow chain (33 RSC) the price went from $17.00 for the green to $28.00 for the yellow. Unless someone gives me a greenie and it is all I have available I'll never go back. The yellow is worth the price difference.

God Bless, Ward and Mary.

The local Stihl dealer here charged me $20 for an 18" loop of the RS so I guess that's all right.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #34 on:** February 22, 2012, 05:14:15 pm »

Well a sharp chain will do as much for you as a 200 dollar port job .A lot cheaper too .

sawguy21 · « **Reply #35 on:** February 22, 2012, 11:26:36 pm »

A little off topic but a dealer called today asking if anyone made 3/8 lo pro carbide chain.

She admitted it was a dumb question but had to ask on her customer's behalf. He was using a cheap box store saw to cut used ties.

We both had a good laugh.

Paul_H · « **Reply #36 on:** February 22, 2012, 11:50:42 pm »

Roy,

Stihl 63PD3 should fit the bill.

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Author Topic: What type of saw chain do you use (Read 2514 times)