Author Topic: Husky arborists saw? (Read 1504 times)

Just Me · « **on:** October 13, 2011, 08:32:10 pm »

I was at the dealer the other day picking up a new 357XP, which I like so far and was thinking I would buy a 240 for a jobsite saw to replace the one I ran over with the tractor.

Anyway.... I spied a Husky arborist saw for $319, and wondered how they are as saws go. I need a small saw around on construction sites, and at my age cleaning up brush with the XP is not that much fun, so I would like to hear your opinions as to its usefullness and relaibility.

Larry

zopi · « **Reply #1 on:** October 13, 2011, 08:50:09 pm »

They are ok...on par with the less expensive stihl top handle saw...

DonT · « **Reply #2 on:** October 13, 2011, 10:42:07 pm »

I love my huskies but carry a stihl200T when climbing.The echo 330T is about that price here,it is a decent little saw for the money and worth considering.

T Welsh · « **Reply #3 on:** October 14, 2011, 05:51:27 am »

I just dusted off and fired up ours. it sits on the bench most of the time next to our Stihl climbers. they seem a little under powered,but do the job. take it for a test ride and judge for your self. and if you like it,offer them say 200 and then it gives you some room to barter and see what happens, I would say around 250 would be a good price,if they wont budge get them to throw in a spare chain and a tool kit. I like to barter, I just bought an 044 and a 046 from our dealer and they where asking 499 and 599 I saw the manager and yelled at him I,ll take both right now for 800,it took another 1/2 hour,but I walked out of the store with both of them. cash talks!! Tim

Al_Smith · « **Reply #4 on:** October 14, 2011, 07:21:58 am »

I have no idea about the praticular model but will comment about an older model .

I have in my shed with the other 45 or so saws three Husqvarna 335's .They have a nice balance but don't have quite the power of say a Stihl 020T or Ms 200T .It's enough though and in good running condition they do fine .

The weak link on those things is the oiler ,it's a simple fix of about 10 dollars for a new pump shaft but it's not a real joy to install .You have to completley dissect that little saw to do much of anything to it .If a dealer did the work you'd have half the price in it as it cost new .

I've since heard that Husqvarna has since addressed this problem .Too late I'm afraid in this area because the trimmers that gave me those saws will never buy another one .

Kevin · « **Reply #5 on:** October 14, 2011, 02:06:01 pm »

I have both, Stihl and Husqvarna.
I have a modified muffler on the 335 and I don't see much of a power difference between the two, if any.
I have used the 335 for many years in the trees and brushing, it has been a great little saw.

Just Me · « **Reply #6 on:** October 14, 2011, 06:42:56 pm »

Quote from: T Welsh on October 14, 2011, 05:51:27 am

cash talks!! Tim

I know cash talks, but mine is usually saying "Goodbye".

I got the 357 for $650 with an extra chain from this dealer. I have never run an arborists saw so I have no clue what they are like. Half of what it would be used for is log cabin work. I'm working on a oak log home now and could use it soon if I thought it was the ticket. I need a lot of control and a fast chain speed to do the scribing I need to do.

He won't let me try the one on the rack as it is brand new, can't say I blame him. I'll see if I can try one of the Stihls one of my climber buddys has, should give me an idea if it would fit the bill.

Larry

John Mc · « **Reply #7 on:** October 15, 2011, 09:13:29 am »

Do you really want an arborists' saw (I take that to mean a top handle saw used when climbing)? Or is it that you just need a lighter weight limbing and ground work saw? If you're not climbing, the rear handle saws might be worth considering instead. Lots of good choices from various manufacturers, and I find the rear handle better for the "cleaning up brush" you mentioned (A Brush saw or clearing saw is even better if what you are doing is cutting saplings and weeds, but it may not be worth hauling around with you if your primary focus is chainsaw-type work.)

Just Me · « **Reply #8 on:** October 15, 2011, 05:04:19 pm »

The most important use for the saw is the log work. I do mostly trim. Where a stud wall meets a log wall I cut a slot in the wall with a tool I made out of a biscuit joiner, and this is set at whatever wall material that is being used T7G, drywall, etc. Then I use the chainsaw to cut from this scribeline back to the stud so the material can be slipped in this slot. It takes a saw with control, and high chain speed seems to be the ticket. The 240 I ran over with the tractor worked just fine, but I was wondering if the lighter arborist saw would be better. A lot of the time I am on a ladder or hanging off of some Rube Goldberg type scaffold. You are in the cut for a long time when doing this, and I was just curious if the arborist saw would be better at this as it gets tiring trying to not slip and ruin a wall, that can not be fixed easily.

Outside of that, the 240 does just fine, so maybe I should just stick with the devil I know.

Larry

T Welsh · « **Reply #9 on:** October 15, 2011, 05:54:03 pm »

Just Me, After you said what you need it for and since your buddy has a 200t I would try his first, you will be sold on it! it will do everything you intend it too and it will blow the Husky away. as for the dealer that wont let you try a saw out.(look for another dealer) I will not tolerate some one not letting me test a product out before purchase. you would not buy a car with out testing it first would you! you will be well satisfied with the climber, you can also change the chain to give you better cut results as in smoother cut on the face of timbers and less tear out. The top handle gives you the line of sight to make good square cuts,you can also pick different lengths of bars to fit what best suits your needs. I hate to be prejudice but go with Stihl on this one. it will last a life time. Tim

John Mc · « **Reply #10 on:** October 15, 2011, 09:21:10 pm »

If control (especially for long periods) is an issue, I personally would not use a top handle saw. The closer your hands are together when operating the saw, the less leverage you have. The wider handle spacing of a rear handle saw will give you better control with less effort.

The 200T is indeed a great saw, but I don't think your application is the best use for it (unless for some reason you need to do a good number of these cuts one-handed?)

Jasperfield · « **Reply #11 on:** October 15, 2011, 09:59:59 pm »

You can get an 020T (200T) with a rear handle. These saws, in my opinion, are Stihl's best.

John Mc · « **Reply #12 on:** October 16, 2011, 08:05:14 am »

Quote from: Jasperfield on October 15, 2011, 09:59:59 pm

You can get an 020T (200T) with a rear handle...

That would be the MS 200 (the "T" in 200T stands for Top Handle).

So the next question would be is Larry looking for about the same power as what he had, but a couple of pounds lighter (MS 200)? Or is he looking to step up in power with about the same weight as the 240 he used (Husky 339XP =rear handle, Husky 435/440/445/450 - the 450 is about a pound heavier, but a nice saw as homeowner/landowner saws go, Stihl MS 200/210/230/250)

Lastly: the 240 he had was a "homeowner" saw. It seems to have been working OK for him until it got in a wrestling match with a tractor. For a bit more money, does he want to step up to a midrange or pro saw with better power-to weight ratio, and better durability (maybe not, if his tractor is itching for a rematch?)

John Mc

SawTroll · « **Reply #13 on:** October 17, 2011, 08:58:23 am »

Don't buy a top-handle saw for ground use, you will have less contol than with a rear-handle saw.

Also avoid the 235/240 - they are made by Poulan, and heavy for their power.

Just Me · « **Reply #14 on:** October 18, 2011, 05:34:11 am »

Tracked down my friend in the tree business and played with his 200T. Not the ticket. As has been said, hands are too close together. Cool saw though, and I wouldn't kick one out of my barn for leaking oil, but not what I need right now.

I want to see a 339 XP, but they seem to be an odd duck. Its about two weeks or so before I start that job, so I have some time. All else fails they have 240's sitting on the shelf.

Thanks for the advice. I would have bought the top handle saw and found out the hard way it was not the tool for the job without your help.

Larry

John Mc · « **Reply #15 on:** October 18, 2011, 12:14:07 pm »

Larry -

Your 240 should weigh about 10.4 lbs (powerhead only), 38cc, 2.0 HP. The 339 is a bit of an odd duck. It's a pro-level arborist saw, but with a rear handle.

If you want to step up to something with a better power-to-weight ratio than your old 240, you might look at the Husky 450. It's 50cc, 3.2 HP, 11.2#. I've always though this saw hit a sweet spot in Husky's "landowner" (midrange) saws. Nice power and weight, 50 ccs is enough to do more than just limbing, if needed (You can cut 12"+ hardwoods with it, but it takes a sharp chain and a bit of patience.) At $390 List, it's a decent price as well. I'm not as much of a fan of the Husky 455 or 460. They're decent saws, but a lot more weight for the small increase in power you get over the 450.

The Husky 353 $425 list (52cc, 11.2#, 3.3 HP) is also a nice saw. I own the Jonsered "sister saw" to this (2152) and have been very happy with it. A step up in construction from the 450. They sell it as a "landowner" saw, but it shares a lot of construction features with their pro saws.

IMO, the king of 50cc saws is the Husky 346XP (50cc, 11.0#, 3.7 HP), but at $510 that may be more than you want to get into, especially if a 240 has been doing the job for you. Also, if you already own the 357XP, you can probably get away with less than the 346XP.

For any of the above, I'd probably go with a 16" bar (they are often sold with longer bars, but a good dealer would let you swap it out).

All of the above are lighter than your 357XP (which, if I recall, is actually heavier than the 12.1# listed in the specs). If you want to go lighter than your 240, you could look at the 435 (9.3#) or 440 (9.8#). Both still beat the 240 for power. I'm not very familiar with these saws, however.

I don't know as much about the Stihl line. I do know the MS 200 has a great reputation. They tend to list all of their smaller saws as "occasional use" saws. However, I've heard comments hear on FF that there are significant differences in construction and power to weight ratio of these saws... I just can't remember which ones are the better ones. Someone else can chime in on the other models to consider in their line.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #16 on:** October 18, 2011, 04:24:11 pm »

Quote from: SawTroll on October 17, 2011, 08:58:23 am

Don't buy a top-handle saw for ground use, you will have less contol than with a rear-handle saw.

.

I've heard that .Maybe for the less experianced that's good advice .I've used a top handle myself for ground work for over 35 years and never had a problem .Actually in the early days it was all I had so there really wasn't much choice other than a bow saw .Somehow a bow saw never really suited me .

DR_Buck · « **Reply #17 on:** October 18, 2011, 05:33:59 pm »

Quote from: Al_Smith on October 18, 2011, 04:24:11 pm

Quote from: SawTroll on October 17, 2011, 08:58:23 am
Don't buy a top-handle saw for ground use, you will have less contol than with a rear-handle saw.

.
I've heard that .Maybe for the less experianced that's good advice .I've used a top handle myself for ground work for over 35 years and never had a problem .Actually in the early days it was all I had so there really wasn't much choice other than a bow saw .Somehow a bow saw never really suited me .

I've been using my husky 335Xp to prune fence lines for 6 or 7 years now. Its much easier to control around the fence wire than a rear handle saw.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #18 on:** October 18, 2011, 06:17:30 pm »

I've used a Stihl 200T to cut stuff out of a chain link fence and never hit a wire .Try that some time with a 372 Husky .

Just Me · « **Reply #19 on:** October 18, 2011, 07:42:07 pm »

Quote from: John Mc on October 18, 2011, 12:14:07 pm

Larry -

All of the above are lighter than your 357XP (which, if I recall, is actually heavier than the 12.1# listed in the specs). If you want to go lighter than your 240, you could look at the 435 (9.3#) or 440 (9.8#). Both still beat the 240 for power. I'm not very familiar with these saws, however.

I don't know as much about the Stihl line.

I was reading and it seems that the 435 and 440 are NOT made in China?

I did not even pay any attention when I bought it last year and did not realize my 240 was made in China. May be a fine saw, but I don't buy from China if I can help it. Well, it can't take a 45hp New Holland, so it must not be that tough.

I bought a 455 last year and did not like it, much prefer my 357.

Local Stihl dealers have not been good to me, so I think I will go in tomorrow and see if they have a 435/440 provided they are not made in China. I'd try a Stihl again if we had a better dealer. We don't.

Al, I've seen your picture on Sawmill Creek, you look like you should have no problem hanging on to just about any saw. I'm not that big. And I'm older.....

Thanks for the help.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #20 on:** October 18, 2011, 09:38:30 pm »

Someone must have stuck it on there then because I'm not on that forum .

Ha ,I'm not all that big,6 foot and 220 .I can one hand a 200 but I have a bit of a problem with an 084 .

Just Me · « **Reply #21 on:** October 23, 2011, 05:37:20 am »

Ordered a 435. would have got a 440 but it has the toolless chain adjustment.

Will post after I abuse it a bit...

Larry

Just Me · « **Reply #22 on:** November 01, 2011, 06:45:22 am »

Picked up the 435 and worked it a bit this weekend. It does have the one nut bar bolt, but if its not a problem it does not look like a bad deal. There are two posts with a stud in the middle so I can't really see it going anywhere. Didn't loosen up and we cut down and processed about ten trees. The 357 did most of the work though. Takes four pulls to start even when warm, don't like that but will see how it is after it gets some use. 357 starts one pull when warm, two-3 when cold.

I did find it to be underpowered for what we were doing [so I stuck my BIL with it] so I would certianly not buy one as a fire wood saw. It may get better as it breaks in. It was nice for limbing, and that is one of the reasons I bought it. For $250 its fine.

I'll start on that log cabin next week and see how it works for what I really bought it for.

Larry

Al_Smith · « **Reply #23 on:** November 01, 2011, 10:45:40 am »

Well keep in mind it's just a little what 41 cc or something .Usually with a little run time they improve .

I've never even seen one but to me these 40 cc saws must be a cut between a little trim saw and a full 3 cuber .As a rear handle they aren't a climbing saw and with such small displacement not really a firewooder .

Most limbers or at least the pro types are full 3 cubers so I have no idea where these intermediate displacement saws fit into the line up .Not bad mouthing the saw just somewhat confused .

John Mc · « **Reply #24 on:** November 01, 2011, 04:14:37 pm »

I agree, Al. I had a 40cc saw (Jonsered 2141). I ended up moving up to a 50cc 2152. About the same weight, but 20% more HP. A nice little saw, but still enough "oomph" that I can use it for firewood cutting when I've already got it in my hands (at least on the smaller logs).

For what Just Me mentioned as his primary purpose, the lighter weight, and cost, but still more power than his old saw should work out well for him. I don't imagine he needs a whole lot of power to cut those slots in the log wall, and if it's a long cut (sometimes at awkward angles?) the 1 pound lighter weight than his old 240 ought to serve him well.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #25 on:** November 01, 2011, 08:14:48 pm »

Well yeah that's a point I never thought of .That or who ever mentioned cutting roof notches in post and beam barns .Of course in that case it might be good idea to teather off the saw .

You could cut firewood with it if it wasn't a big amount maybe a little camp fire wood .Perhaps that's what they made them for .

John Mc · « **Reply #26 on:** November 01, 2011, 09:21:08 pm »

What always cracks me up is the 40cc big box store saws that come with the 20" bars on them. (Oooh... this ones got a bigger bar! It must be better.)

Al_Smith · « **Reply #27 on:** November 02, 2011, 06:01:44 am »

Well size does seem to pop up in a conversation now and again

Just Me · « **Reply #28 on:** November 14, 2011, 06:46:01 am »

Well, I got a chance to use it for what I bought it for. Works very nicely. Hanging off of a ladder cutting wrong handed, it is light enough that I can handle it, but still has enough power that I am not there all day. Nice and controlable for delicate cuts. I'm happy with my purchase.

Larry

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Author Topic: Husky arborists saw? (Read 1504 times)