Boring cut questions

[joejkd]

Hello all, first post here. New to tree felling, just bought a house with a wood stove so started harvesting next year's wood on my land.

I've felled 2 trees so far, one a 30" wide maple and the other a 22# pine, but both didn't have tops on them (the tops were windthrown in hurricane Irene). They were good practice, but each was only about 15-20 foot tall and, to be honest, I made a ton of mistakes on each one.

I've improved my saw technique quite a bit, and have practiced the boring cut on some deadfall. I've gotten quite good with it, and wanted to use the technique to fell my next tree.

However, though there are many resources on the internet for this technique, the information seems conflicted. Here are the questions I needed clarified:

1.) On the actual boring cut, should the cut be "stepped" or an inch or two above the hinge, or should it be the same level as the hinge?

2.) When releasing the holding wood, do you cut down at an angle to meet the bore slot, straight through, or 1/2 inch below the slot? I've read it done all 3 ways. If you saw below  the slot, how do you know when to stop if the strap isn't breaking and it's time to wedge over instead?

3.) Can you use a boring cut on a back leaner?

Finally, off the topic of boring cuts, how do you aim your saw when notching? I have trouble avoiding bypass sometimes.

[beenthere]

Welcome to the forum.
Good questions.

#1  The boring cut, being part of the back cut, can be slightly above the hinge, but don't need more than an inch. Just avoid being lower.

#2  Releasing the holding wood depends a lot on how the tree is sitting, or how the holding wood is "holding". If in tension, then just cut it. If in compression, then be sure to have two wedges in place so the saw doesn't get caught and the tree doesn't set down on you. Much easier to place the wedges than have to try to get the tree back up. Don't wait to put the wedges in place, as "too late" is wasted time.

#3  Yes you can use it, and I do. But I make sure there is a place to put the wedge (s). Sometimes will make a bore cut perpendicular to the hinge at the back side just to get a wedge started. Then place two more wedges on each side to assist raising the tree when ready.

Finally... aim as in most things comes with practice.

[mad murdock]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum JoeJkd.  As for the questions on the boring cut technique, I have used it only rarely, as most of the trees I have cut were small enough to not have to use it to get the reach, I did use it on some large White pine many years back, (48" + dia.) and it worked well.  My cutting involves cutting logs for grade sawlogs, or veneer, so I use a reverse notch 95% of the time, (keeps the butt cuts to a minimum loss of $$).  You will have more control over the tree if you have your back-cut at least an inch above the notch plane, If you have a bar that is big enough to reach across the diameter of the trunk at cutting height, you will have more control over the tree if you do not cut out the center proir to making your back-cut.  Using felling wedges is highly recommended as this really gives you the maximum control over the felling process. Be carefull with leaners, makes sure you are aware of the soundness of the tree, (hollow center, rot, shake, etc).  A barber chair can do you in real quick.  Above all don't get in a hurry,  think ahead, have a clear escape route, and use a brain bucket!

[Kevin]

1.) On the actual boring cut, should the cut be "stepped" or an inch or two above the hinge, or should it be the same level as the hinge?

The boring cut is actually the felling cut and should be made at the top of the hinge with a step above the apex which is called stump shot.

2.) When releasing the holding wood, do you cut down at an angle to meet the bore slot, straight through, or 1/2 inch below the slot? I've read it done all 3 ways. If you saw below  the slot, how do you know when to stop if the strap isn't breaking and it's time to wedge over instead?

You would cut just below the boring cut straight through
If it doesn't trip then you shouldn't have bored it or should have used wedges prior to tripping it.

3.) Can you use a boring cut on a back leaner?
No, boring cuts are used on head leaners to reduce the tension

Finally, off the topic of boring cuts, how do you aim your saw when notching? I have trouble avoiding bypass sometimes.

Use the gunning sights on your saw to line up the face.

[joejkd]

Whoa you guys are fast!

Ok, wedges it is, with a stepped bore, and a backstrap cut below the slot. Got it.

What is the safest cut for a backleaner? I've got 2 in my lot that are leaning towards other trees and need a good technique to drop them. I'm not a pro so speed isn't an issue for me.

Also, I don't have trouble getting the notch facing in the right direction. I have a saw with no sights but I'm pretty good at getting them on the right facing. What I have trouble with is meeting the bottom cut with the top cut.

[Kevin]

What notch are you cutting?

For back leaners you can wedge them over or pull them with a rope.

[mad murdock]

Thanks Kevin for your precise clarification!  I never learnt the proper terms for all the cuts, just learned how to do them and get wood on the ground with maximum safety and minimum value loss in the logs.  I guess in my prior post I was thinking "plunge" cut technique.  

[beenthere]

joejkd
What saw are you using? Most saws, if not all, have the gunning sight built in. You just may not recognize it and could find it handy.

It might be a line on the top of the saw, and it might be the top handle.

[zopi]

If I have an off axis leaner, I put a rope on it...as policy...but then, I remove alot of trees around peoples houses and expensive toys...sooo...
Norwood has a neat little falling jack for pushing trees over...stick it in the ground and up against the trunk...jack the tree over...never used one though...

[joejkd]

I'm using an open face notch, top cut at about 60-70 degrees, and coming up from the bottom 10-20 degrees, so I end up with a 70-90 degree notch

I've got a homelite 18" 42cc (don't know the model number but I just bought it).

[Kevin]

Making that bottom cut is tricky and you will get better with practice.
Just line the top of the bar up to meet the top cut and do the best you can, don't cut too deep and you can always clean it up until you get good at it.

[madmari]

I use the bore cut alot, mostly on heavy leaners. On back leans, I plunge through the back of the tree into the face cut. This will leave you with two hinges- one on each side of the plunge you just made.Put a wedge in the plunge cut, smack it home and carefully cut both sides seperatly, using the wedge as you go between sides. This allows very accurate hinge depth.  If the tree does not go over after cutting both sides, get on the wedge some more and you'll see results.
  If the wood is rotten, hollow or otherwise bad, I'd use a snatch block and come- along . Slow but sure.

  Found that the secret to accurate, safe felling is take your time, be accurate the first time and use a very sharp saw.

 Be safe and good luck!

[thecfarm]

joejkd,Welcome to the forum. Cutting trees with no tops are harder to fall. No limbs to help the tree fall over.

[joejkd]

Great you guys a super helpful. I'll be heading into the woods again this weekend, I'll post some pics of what I do. I'm going to get me some good felling wedges tomorrow for starters

[thecfarm]

By the way,do you have chaps,hard hat,eye protection too?

[joejkd]

i have a hard hat and eye protection. I need steel-toe boots and chaps next

[John Mc]

joejkd -

One thing that can help with the notch cuts is to do the top cut first. You can then sight down that cut while making your bottom cut, and see when the bar approaches the plane of your top cut, helping to avoid bypassing the top cut.

The main thing is, keep practicing. After a while, you'll develop a better eye and feel for how things are going, and where the end of your bar is.

If you get a chance, you might want to look in to some chainsaw training. Around my area, the "Game of Logging" training is pretty highly thought of. There are probably other methods, but if you are into the bore cutting techniques, that's something GOL really focusses on.

What part of the country are you from? (you might want to fill out your profile when you get a chance).

John Mc

[Kevin]

On back leans, I plunge through the back of the tree into the face cut

Does that create a problem for stacking your wedges when one isn't enough?

[madmari]

Yes, it does. On large diameter  trees I might use 2 or three wedges, next to each other, I have some"high lift" wedges for the real challengers. They are prone to kicking out on frozen wood.
  Best practice, IMO, is if possible let the tree fall where it wants to. Saves time in the long run to buck and skid than have a tree spin off a hinge, pinch bars, hang up or worse get YOU. Understand that some times this is not and option, but if your little voice is nervous let the tree stand and move along. After more practice, the tree may not seem so intimidating.

[John Mc]

I sometimes use a bore cut on back leaners. The same holding wood that keeps a front leaner from falling until you are ready can also support a back leaner while you are putting a wedge in the saw kerf. When doing this on a back leaner, I'll usually off-set the holding wood a bit to one side, rather than leaving it straight back from the center of the hinge. This leaves a good place to but the wedge.

I only carry two wedges with me. For moderate back leaners, one wedge is enough. For heavy back leaners, I'll cut a cookie not quite as thick as the thick end of the wedge. I drive in the first wedge, then put in the cookie in the kerf next to the first wedge and drive my second wedge in on top of the cookie. If that hasn't driven the tree over, it has at least released the first wedge. I now have a bigger gap, put in a thicker cookie, and drive the first wedge back in.

I've found the wedge on top of a cookie works better for me than trying to stack wedges (they want to spit back out) or carrying a thicker wedge around that I don't use all that much. I've gone back and forth with the wedges and thicker cookies several times on one tree. The most I've ever done is about a 3.5 or 4" cookie to help drive over a 23" black walnut with a lot of back lean.

John Mc