Stairs design help

[Rooster]

My wood stove which is ICBO (approve in the US) but not approved in Canada has to be treated has a non-approved stove. So the clerances must be 4feet around the stove.

Would you have enough clearance if you were in the States?

[sbishop]

yes but all this means is i have to figure out where i can put the stove...probrably just move it a foot away where the stairs are going but i'll have to double check! another 2 1/2hrs drive 

Sbishop

[clif]

Just a thought, but I have had to put a dormer in to get the head room when a  loft was put in later.  Or since you are not legal any way you could put in a "Monk stair" http://bottleworld.net/?p=157

[jdtuttle]

Sbishop,
Not sure if it's a building code issue north of the border but in NY we use refrence standards. There is a reduction chart for approved fire resistance walls. For example; 1/2" cement board with a 1" air space allows for a 66% reduction in wall separation. 48" x 66% = 31.68". You  could be approx. 18" from a wall. Of course I don't know what is applicable where you are. Maybe worth asking.
jim

[sbishop]

Jim,

sorry for the delay but i've got some better numbers now.

Total rise 92 1/2
total width 102 (run)

outside wall height to ceiling is 94" (a foot out from the wall is 102) for head room. i'm going to go with 24" wide stairs. they are only going to be used to go up and down (not worried about taking furniture up and down)

i've tried doing some calculation following yours and what i've got so far is 12 threads of 8 11/16 and 13 risers of 7 11/16. (first step at top of stairs is a step down) ...3 risers to the landing...10 risers for the rest.

is my calcualtions correct and are these steps ok? steep?

THANKS Jim

Sbishop

[ljmathias]

Those are pretty narrow treads, means you mostly go down kinda sideways stepping (rough treads on the house I'm building are about like yours and the 5/6 year old grandkids won't go down without help)- but you do what you gotta do to make it fit.  Good luck.

Lj

[Jim_Rogers]

I've got to go out right now, but I'll check these dimensions out later today.

[Jim_Rogers]

Ok so using your dimensions I entered them into my drawing to represent the roof slope.

Then I made the riser and thread the sizes you wanted. Starting at the top beam I copied them out to make them come down until they touched the floor. And they pretty much line up ok.

I then made the landing at the third step top and checked the clearance to the sloped roof.

You could get by with this. I have a chart somewhere that tells what a steep stair slope is in degrees but I can't find it now.

See attached.

[sbishop]

Thanks Jim,

i was playing around with the numbers and i came up with this, which is really close to your drawing.

Can i move the top stringer closer to the wall where it lands on the landing(in your picture)?  in my drawing i've got the treads at 9 9/32.

looking at my drawing can i cut the stringer off at the third step and building my landing based on that (landing size of 27 27/32 plus enough room to attach stringer by 24" wide)



i'm i confusing anyone yet?

One last question.... 2X12 or 2X10?
Sbishop

 

[Jim_Rogers]

2x12 to be safe. That's what I used in my drawing.

[sbishop]

Got the stairs installed on the weekend...with all the planning that went into this...it was actually a piece of cake!

THANKS Jim and everyone else that helped!

I'm all done working on the camp for another year but i will putting on a railing first thing in the spring!

[Jim_Rogers]

How do they feel to walk up them?

Did you have enough head clearance?

Jim Rogers

[sbishop]

Jim, lots of head clearance...over 6" and they feel great.....wife was impressed....thats all that counts!

[Jim_Rogers]

It's really important that they feel ok when you walk up and down them. If they don't then you can trip and fall or stumble going up or down.

These are the reasons why they are so well inspected to see if they meet code.

[sbishop]

My father, who turned 70 years young this summer even tried them out with no issues.