Author Topic: Log Turner (Read 2774 times)

250quality · « **on:** July 02, 2011, 09:50:04 am »

Just wondering if anyone had any sort of plan for a 12 volt winch powered log turner like the Woodmizer style.
Just finished my 12 volt clamp system and wanted to continue before my motivation left.
Thanks

sst04 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 02, 2011, 01:33:23 pm »

I would like to see pics of the 12 volt clamp system.

250quality · « **Reply #2 on:** July 02, 2011, 04:41:01 pm »

I put up a couple pics. You can also find them on here from another member as I copied his only mine is winch powered and his was manual.
Works great.

robnrob2 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 05, 2011, 09:46:17 am »

Here is a picture.

All 3 claw style turners work off one 3,000lb winch,,
cable is routed along by the track, toward the winch, then the 3 cables are buckeled together to the one cable, and winch pulls all 3 at once,, ya really only need one tho,,one claw,, the claws are weighted with window sash weights in the 2x2" square tubing, so gravity pulls them down..
I'm studying tho goin with a Hydraulic setup,, either a 2 plane, or a chain,,, both take the same amount of juice, and 2 sets of control valves,,just depends on the power pack that I get for it, and what I can cram in there with least amount of aggravation.

250quality · « **Reply #4 on:** July 05, 2011, 05:40:55 pm »

Sweet deal! Gonna get to work building one soon. Tonight I gotta finish my band brake system.
Can't seem to get them big wheels to stop turning no how when the clutch is disengaged.
Been sawing too long with the blade always turning. Not as brave in my old age I guess.

250quality · « **Reply #5 on:** July 05, 2011, 08:39:24 pm »

Thank you to all! After 2 more strategically placed pins and a brake system I am happy to say my mill finally stops after 15 seconds of coasting.
Pretty sure this will add some life to my blades as they are no longer permanently in motion.
Now onto the log turner.
Funny how sucess makes you feel like trying something else.
Even found a rattle I never new about now that I can hear the ol diesel purr.
Thanks again
Brian

robnrob2 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 06, 2011, 07:21:26 am »

I have a typical Bicycle brake and cable, that is hooked up to my blade engage lever, and the brake is set up over the band wheel, and it clamps the wheel, so when I disengage the blade the brake stops it very quickly.
Wheres your photos ?

250quality · « **Reply #7 on:** July 06, 2011, 05:56:35 pm »

Great idea. May try that as well. I put up a couple pics but will upload more soon.
Thanks

robnrob2 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 07, 2011, 07:28:40 am »

Oh and By the way
I have a 2,000lb winch mounted on the mill, with a hook on it, and at times the claw log turners just seem to p/u the log instead of rolling it, so I'll bring the carriage over the log, drop the hook down under the edge of the log, hit the button and over it goes, and it is fast,
I can also hook my small skiden tongs, if I need to move short logs for reposition, the mill can cut up to 21'6"

Nuther shot

Depending on your machine and design, an on board winch can be very usefull.

Here you can see the winch is used to lift the log loader,, After the carriage is locked down.

shelbycharger400 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 07, 2011, 10:14:22 pm »

i like that setup for the log turners

250quality · « **Reply #10 on:** July 08, 2011, 06:54:32 am »

My mill lives in its own building but I never ran a beam above it or I would just put in an overhead winch.
I am still tossing around the idea and what would be cheaper and easier.
I did see you winch idea earlier and now that I dont have to rush everything because my blade now will stop, that may be the way for me to go.
How big of winch do you have mounted on it?

250quality · « **Reply #11 on:** July 08, 2011, 07:00:24 am »

Sorry. Too early in the morning for the brain to register.is the 2000lb big enough or should I loof for something bigger.
I still got about 40 12 foot oak logs left to saw and all a pretty good size. Real tough with just me and a cant hook hence the log turner idea.

robnrob2 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 08, 2011, 07:41:07 am »

A 2,000lb winch has done all I needed it to do,, I only have enough cable on the spool to reach down to the ground and grab the log loader,, the less cable on the spool the more yankin power, but a bit slower, not much tho.
In my pole barn I have a 4" wide by 8" high I-beam,, it is up on post and is perpendicular to the mill and about in the middle of the mill, I do have an electric hoist on it,, I only use it to carry logs to the mill, but it too could flip logs,, just not as convenient.

250quality · « **Reply #13 on:** July 08, 2011, 04:51:03 pm »

Yea I'm spoiled. Got a mini ex with a thumb and a tractor with forks at my end. Save the man, kill the machine.

250quality · « **Reply #14 on:** July 17, 2011, 06:20:45 pm »

Found a 3000lb winch on sale and mounted it on my carriage. Should have done that 3 years ago. Works amazing but still tyring to perfect my hook. Seems to want to slip off when I wrap it around the log to roll it so I found a short nylon strap works but a little slower.
Would sure like to see a pic of Robnrob2's brake system as mine is not workin out so well. Back to the drawing board I guess.
Shut down and waiting on a new guide roller from Cooks as mine has a flat spot worn on it and causing some bad band vibration.
Wish they had a store in Ontario but might be dangerous.

redbeard · « **Reply #15 on:** July 17, 2011, 06:38:00 pm »

I have a machinist buddy that dresses up my guide rollers he just chucks them up in the lathe and smoothes out the flat spots it dosent matter if they are different sizes I just adjust the mounts to level the blade. Are your guide rollers really tight on your blades i believe that was causing mine to stop and wear a flat spot. I run about a 1/8" - 3/16" deflection just enough to keep them spinning. I can post a pic of my brake on a B-20 if you want its just a brass bar that rubs on the main drive pulley.

250quality · « **Reply #16 on:** July 17, 2011, 07:31:44 pm »

Now why didn't I think of that! Great idea and will get me going again quicker.
Sure would like to see a pic of your brake system redbeard.
Down to 12 oak logs left and got the itch to finish them. Had my bush logged last year but due to the fact that they wanted to rape me on the price I kept it all and payed the logger for his time. Ended up with about 5500 feet of red oak to saw. Being only a part time hobby it has taken some time to get through the pile but I see the light at the end of the tunnel now. Hope it's not a train!
Thanks

redbeard · « **Reply #17 on:** July 17, 2011, 10:02:23 pm »

Here is some pics of the log turner and brake for the B-20 , The brake works pretty good when you first set it but it wears to fast unless your careful on release i let mine just barely touch the wheels it has a slower stop. Hope this helps the turner is awesome it has many uses like it holds the logs solid on the first couple of cuts and turns and its bi-directional function is very handy.

shelbycharger400 · « **Reply #18 on:** July 18, 2011, 04:42:53 pm »

what material is that brown wear bar? I know delrin (nylon dose work too)

redbeard · « **Reply #19 on:** July 18, 2011, 05:47:57 pm »

Brass.

shelbycharger400 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 18, 2011, 06:45:11 pm »

id say go with delron plastic, it has medium abrasion resistance, and prob cheaper than buying brass bar stock

250quality · « **Reply #21 on:** July 18, 2011, 08:25:31 pm »

Thanks Redbeard. Got my guide roller turned for 20 bucks and 14 dollars worth of bearings. These bearings are sealed units that never need grease and the ones from Cooks are not. Wonder why they wouldn't use sealed bearings with all the dust and all.
Picked up some small automotive brake pads and there lined up with the side of my drive pulley which should act like a brake rotor if all goes well. One more trip to Princess Auto and it will be complete. Pics soon to follow.

redbeard · « **Reply #22 on:** July 18, 2011, 08:39:34 pm »

Some of the guys drill there sealed bearings so they can lube them, I haven't yet but i want too cause the idle side guide roller is the one that wears the quickest due to the constant water lube, it eventually eats them up. the drive side guide roller bearing last 3 times as long. Yeah the brass bar brake is not the best design but it works for awhile i prefer a slow stop, i bet on the newer TK mills they have a different design.

250quality · « **Reply #23 on:** July 18, 2011, 08:46:11 pm »

I'm running diesel fuel in my drip system. Stopped with the water a while back. Seem to do the job.

shelbycharger400 · « **Reply #24 on:** July 19, 2011, 10:13:55 pm »

it might behove you to talk to a bearing house, and tell them you are in Wash Down environment, then tell them your bearing specs. or tell them the bearing number, then ask for a wash down equiv.

IT will cost you $ but then you get the best of the best stuff... in Stainless steel

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Author Topic: Log Turner (Read 2774 times)