proper direction of tree falling

[REGULAR GUY]

Can anyone help me with advice on falling  Pines (approx. 34 inch dia at base and approx. 130' tall with even branch distribution), leaning very slightly the oppesite  direction of preferred direction because of a bank that would split the trees if felled wrong.  I think wedges would work but I want to be sure. There are only two trees that I'm concerned about so I dont want to break my billfold and spend money I don't have so if anyone could get back to me it would be appreciate it very much. 

Regular Guy
 
                                                                                                                                                           

[bill m]

I have used wedges to tip over pine trees of that size and bigger with up to a 10 ft. back lean so yes, it can be done.

[Banjo picker]

Are the trees live or dead?  Using wedges on a dead tree can cause the hinge to snap.  Tim

[submarinesailor]

Can anyone help me with advice on falling  Pines (approx. 34 inch dia at base and approx. 130' tall with even branch distribution), leaning very slightly the oppesite  direction of preferred direction because of a bank that would split the trees if felled wrong.Regular Guy

Hire a pro with good insurence to get it on the ground and then you can deal with it on your own.  Some thing that big can go crazy on you in a heartbeat.

Bruce

[blaze83]

regular guy,

sounds like a fun day, are you in Ohio? I'd love to come give you a hand if you are close enough. From your description it sounds like it is very doable. It always amazes me how much movement occures with wedges.  some things to consider from my perspective:

1  go slow, your not in a race so take your time
2 i'd make my under cut about 14 inches deep in the 34 inch tree, no deeper than 17 which is half way through
3 make sure the under cut is clean, the cuts line up correctly with no over cutting "dutchman"
4 start the back cut about an inch and a half above your undercut
5 get one wedge started as soon as possible with 2 or 3 more as soon as possible after that
6 with  5 inches of holding wood left all 3 or 4 wedges should be securely started
7 if trees are dead be very aware of falling debre, bark, limbs tops etc from the vibration of  driving the wedges and even the saw
8 at the 4 inch mark of your back cut I would begin to saw a little 1/2 inch and then drive the wedges hard, alternating each wedge with a blow
9 cut a litle more and drive the wedges
10 I would not cut past 2 1/2 inches of holding wood but would turn off the saw and keepdriving the wedges until the tree fell



it takes a little time, but is much better than getting impatient and sawing of your holding wood.

as a side note, if there are structures or power lines around getting a pro to do it is recomended, if all you have as a concern is breaking up the log, I'd  go for it, it is how we learn and get better.

make sure YOU HAVE A CLEAR ESCAPE ROUT sorry for the caps but this is very important and wear chaps hardhat etc. I  was on a job where a guy took a limb on the hardhat, it saved his life, all he had was a concusion and sprained neck

have fun, and if you feel a check in your spirit listen to it and don't proceed


look forward to seeing some pictures


Steve

[maple flats]

You must have 2 escape routes, each about 30 degrees from the direction directly opposite your planned fall. Make sure all other escapes are also clear in case it starts going the wrong way.
Is there any thing important within 135' such as a house, garage etc.? Be very careful cutting both the face side of the hinge and the back cut. If you are asking how my guess is that you do not have a bar long enough to reach thru all the way. It is not mandatory but the in experienced have a hard time making a straight cut, especially on the back. You will tend to cut too deep or not deep enough in the center. Check your saw, there is often a line molded in to sight, at 90 degrees from the bar to aim. Use it, this helps. I have cut lots of trees this big and bigger but the last one I did I cut too deep in the center from one side. This caused the tree to break the hinge and go about 20 degrees from plan. I had the area cleared and no harm was done but none the less it fell wrong and I have Game of Logging training (GOL). If you have no training it might be worse.  Submarine sailor might have the best suggestion. If you do decide to drop it yourself, have a spotter to watch and signal you, but they should be 175'+ away, and you should cut a little then check them, and continue this. Agree on hand signals ahead. This tree is not worth your life.

[REGULAR GUY]

Welp, Got it done and it was a breeze! Pardon the pun!!!!! Sorry I didn't reply for a while but me and computers don't get along none to good. All I needed was a coupla wedges, climbed about 3/4 up and tied off a line with a 3 ton come-a-long just for insurance reasons but didn't need it. Nope I'm not in Ohio, I,m in the "Left Coast" (California). Thanks to all that responded. Reading all these sites on this forum sure is interesting and it's amazing all the stuff a guy can learn. Thanks again gents. Hope ya'll are doin good, workin and makey money.           Regular Guy!

[Ianab]

Glad it went well.

A proper plan and some wedges will get a lot of things sorted, and rigging a line, "just in case" is a good safe belt and braces approach.

Ian

[Banjo picker]

Glad it went well for you.  Tim

[blaze83]

glad to here of the success, post some picks if you took some I usually forget the camara

steve

[Collima]

I'm a third generation logger in my families business.  I've been logging for 20 years.  We have never used or owned a wedge.  We always have a skid steer or skitter on the job. A skid steer can always push a tree in the right direction. If it's too big or leaning too bad we cable it.  Leave a lot of hinge!  Usually goes pretty fast. We even do a lot of street reconstructions in urban environments with overhead lines and lots of structures.

[chevytaHOE5674]

A wedge is a whole lot cheaper and easier to use than having a skid steer or skidder on standby. Also there are many places that the equipment would have a hard time getting too where a simple wedge would get the job done.

[Magicman]

Since I don't have skidders and skid steers, wedges are not optional for me.  They are required, even when they are not needed.  I seldom fell any tree without wedges.  A sudden wind can come up and spoil your day.  And yes, I HAVE seen it happen.  I like "insurance" cables also.

[Collima]

Yes you are right. A wedge is a heck of a lot cheaper than a piece of equipment. Lol.

[clww]

I most always use wedges and no felling with winds over 20 mph if it has to be precision-placed.
We like pictures, too.

[saltydog]

I cant imagine logging without wedges in my back pockets. you save so much time and energy and dont tie up the skidder operator .to each there own. ive always said alot of people can cut pulpwood .not many know how to cut hi grade logs. you would lose a small fortune pushing over log trees.they have to be cut off to avoid stump pull. i had a guy come work for me years ago his saw was always pinched.i asked wheres your wedge?he told me he had one once he used it to hold his kitchen door open! try them youll like them.

[thecfarm]

I just about always put a wedge into my cut.Just a habit that I got into. If I cut 50 trees I may only need it twice,when I think I did not need it.

[Magicman]

I also use wedges when bucking a tree.  Sometimes limbs, etc. can put a strange twist on a tree trunk.

[bigsnowdog]

Are steel wedges the only way to go, or are the plastic ones acceptable?

[chevytaHOE5674]

Plastic is the only way to go for felling and bucking. When you hit them with the saw they don't destroy your chain.