Author Topic: Wooden wedges? (Read 2341 times)

SasquatchMan · « **on:** December 22, 2003, 04:54:09 pm »

When a guy is felling a tree, is there any reason not to use hardwood wedges behind the saw as opposed to the commercial plastic ones? I'm just thinking I can save myself a few bucks.

Kevin · « **Reply #1 on:** December 22, 2003, 05:00:42 pm »

They won't take the same abuse and will likely split.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #2 on:** December 22, 2003, 05:15:02 pm »

I was thinking of a something super dense and super hard, like maple, (which I'll put up against yer sissy plastic any day). I suspect your right though, that with enough tapping etc they'll just wind up cracking... I'll make some up and we'll find out.

etat · « **Reply #3 on:** December 22, 2003, 05:19:30 pm »

Kevin · « **Reply #4 on:** December 22, 2003, 05:39:02 pm »

Tapping is what little girls do on a dance floor.

Wedges require some hard driving.

Corley5 · « **Reply #5 on:** December 22, 2003, 05:45:35 pm »

We used hardwood wedges when we cut da white pine for da camp in da UP. We got up there with out any wedges but there happened to be a chunk of maple 4x6 that we cut wedges from. They worked fine. Grain musta been curly enough to keep them from splitting.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #6 on:** December 22, 2003, 05:57:44 pm »

I KNEW IT!!

etat · « **Reply #7 on:** December 22, 2003, 07:58:54 pm »

Keltic · « **Reply #8 on:** December 23, 2003, 04:01:44 am »

They use to use them all the time around here. FMK

Tom · « **Reply #9 on:** December 23, 2003, 05:00:13 am »

I have used wedges made from wood when splittin a large log. It's called a "Glut".

Bro. Noble · « **Reply #10 on:** December 23, 2003, 06:40:38 am »

I have had very poor luck with plastic wedges. I've used the ones sold by the major chainsaw manufacturers and they just don't hold up. I use steel splitting wedges and caution. Since we usually only cut fairly large trees, I can usually make enough of a back cut before needing to drive a wedge that I stay away from the wedge with the saw. When I can't use the steel wedge or it isn't enough, I cut a dogwood or hickory wedge on site.

Kevin · « **Reply #11 on:** December 23, 2003, 08:14:07 am »

I'll just add...
All the pro's use hard plastic, metal or a combination of both.

Will a wooden wedge work ? Yes.
Is it as good or better than a commercial wedge specifically designed for this purpose? I think not.

rebocardo · « **Reply #12 on:** December 23, 2003, 10:20:47 am »

FWIW: I am only a beginner.

I use steel splitting wedges once in a while on a back cut if I need a lot of lift on a big stubborn tree. It is backed up by plastic ones though. The steel is used to drive it up, not hold it, since the plastic ones really deform at a sledge hammer beating when lifting a big tree.

Usually I just use the hard plastic ones, especially when bucking a tree to make sure the kerf does not close and kick back the saw on a 24"+ trunk.

rebocardo · « **Reply #13 on:** December 23, 2003, 10:27:35 am »

Myself, I want to have a certain amount of reliablity, even if it costs a few more dollars since my life is at risk. On a back cut, with plastic I know it will not likely spit back out, crack after a hammer blow, break because of the weight, has ridges, and a textured surface. Plus, being orange, yellow, or green they are easy to find.

Bucking logs or something where it might drop and contact with your saw (hate when that happens) or when splitting a large log I do not see the harm in using them. I use branches, wood I have cut, or what have you that is handy to keep a kerf open while cutting.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #14 on:** December 23, 2003, 10:57:59 am »

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like the anti-wood crowd are using wedges in a way I wouldn't do. I use wedges just to keep the kerf open on the cut... to fell the tree once the cut is done, tipping the tree with a crowbar is a lot easier than hammering away at wedges, no?

David_c · « **Reply #15 on:** December 23, 2003, 11:39:52 am »

i find plastic wedges work fine. one of the things i learned at game of logging was the open faced notch & plunge cut and i find i use it almost excusivelly. no more racing the tree down no pinched bars and if it needs a wedge put them in then cut the release wood and go.

Kevin · « **Reply #16 on:** December 23, 2003, 12:12:29 pm »

I wouldn't say I'm opposed to wooden wedges but I will say the hard plastic wedges will probably last much longer and aren't likely to fail when you need them at a critical moment.
You won't lift a large tree with a bar, wedges have proven to be the tool of choice by pro loggers.
The real big stuff gets jacked.
For keeping a kerf open wood is fine.

Woodhog · « **Reply #17 on:** December 23, 2003, 04:55:33 pm »

I use hardwood wedges all the time, usually maple, only takes a few minutes to make them and doesnt matter if you lose them, also pound with a piece of oak as my small axe is always lost....you can really pound hard on them....
Also dont fell sick if I cut into one of them...the plastic ones are very expensive and break when its cold....

Corley5 · « **Reply #18 on:** December 23, 2003, 05:24:40 pm »

I threw away a couple plastic wedges that I had because they were "spongy". They weren't worth a $hi+ for falling because if the tree decided it wanted to come back the wedges would flatten out and wouldn't help a bit

. Now that's dangerous in my book. That was my first experience quite a while ago. A couple years ago we were getting ready to cut some maple timber and I picked up a couple thinking they must have improved them. Nope not a bit. I did have an aluminum wedge around somewhere that was pretty nice. Worked good and didn't screw up a chain if you hit it. A steel splitting wedge works as good as anything just don't hit it with the saw. Given the choice between a hardwood wedge and a plastic one I'd take the wooden one anyday.

Minnesota_boy · « **Reply #19 on:** December 23, 2003, 05:35:03 pm »

Don't use a steel wedge for aspen when it is cold out! Frozen aspen will spit a steel wedge 5 to 10 feet. You can drive them in a bit and they seem fine, but one more hit and out they come. Kind of scary if you have started the tree tipping and the wedge comes flying out at you and then the tree tips back too!

Kevin · « **Reply #20 on:** December 23, 2003, 05:52:11 pm »

There are many different types of plastic wedges, they all vary in quality and cost.
There is even a softer plastic wedge for colder temperatures.

http://www.timberbuyer.net/chainsaws/wedging.htm

Quote

Wooden wedges need to be either thrown away, used as firewood or mounted on the mantel piece as an unsafe and unreliable antique. They will split, break or disintegrate and always when you need them the most. This can cause injury or death to you or someone else.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #21 on:** December 23, 2003, 06:29:49 pm »

Those maple wedges won't crack or split if I oil em up real good.

Kevin · « **Reply #22 on:** December 23, 2003, 06:32:26 pm »

They'll burn better too.

Corley5 · « **Reply #23 on:** December 23, 2003, 06:32:41 pm »

Frank_Pender · « **Reply #24 on:** December 24, 2003, 05:46:01 pm »

More often than not I have used Douglas Fir limb wood for both my falling and bucking wedges.

Rarely do they split on me.

They are very expendable as well as replaceable.

I like them as they are realy easy to make while the limb is still attatched to the feld tree. You can make several at a time.

Kevin · « **Reply #25 on:** December 24, 2003, 05:58:21 pm »

Frank;
There's too much nutmeg in your eggnog.

Ed_K · « **Reply #26 on:** December 24, 2003, 06:48:13 pm »

I bought a case of plastic wedges, they work for directional felling. But the best wedge is my Taylor skidder backing up

.
Ed

Frank_Pender · « **Reply #27 on:** December 24, 2003, 06:57:49 pm »

Thank You Kevin. I will take that as a compliment. In all seriousness, they work really well, in a pinch.

I have carries the same one around for most of a day sometimes, just because it holds together so well. Then, if I lose or split it our I just make another.

And, Kevin, I have all of my toes, fingers, etc..

I have never fallen a tree on a building, vehicle, equipment etc., but I have only been doing such things for about 45 years or so. :-/ I still have time to break my record.

David_c · « **Reply #28 on:** December 24, 2003, 07:12:31 pm »

hey Frank forgive my ignorance but how do you make the wedges if you dont mind educating me. thanks and happy holidays.

Kevin · « **Reply #29 on:** December 24, 2003, 07:17:35 pm »

Although I'm not rushing out to get any wooden wedges

, it would appear that the people still using them for falling trees are happy with them.

Frank_Pender · « **Reply #30 on:** December 24, 2003, 07:37:19 pm »

David, I first determin what I feel the length of the wedge must be based on the diameneter of the tree being felled. Around here I usually need wedges ranging from 12" to 16". With that determined, I work up a limb wedge that is at least 3" in diam. I try and use a limb that is still attatched to a log, if at all possible. to eliminate kicking it up into my stomach, etc,.

I then cut each of the flat sides of the wedge based on the length of the wedge I am seeking to make. When the flat sides are complete I cut to desired length. I usuallly leave about 3 to 4 inches of round on the hammering end of the wedge.

I have used some limbs from our Western Oregon Oak, but they seem to split tooooo easily when I really begin to lay into hammering them home.

Frank_Pender · « **Reply #31 on:** December 24, 2003, 07:38:31 pm »

Some of us are alive, yet, Kevin.

David_c · « **Reply #32 on:** December 24, 2003, 07:42:09 pm »

Thanks Frank now that you explained it it is soooo simple i dont know why i could'nt figuire it out on my own

.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #33 on:** December 25, 2003, 10:36:02 am »

David, I suggest a 372xp for that.

Stan · « **Reply #34 on:** December 25, 2003, 03:27:07 pm »

That's a pretty good suggestion, I think he has access to one.

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Author Topic: Wooden wedges? (Read 2341 times)