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Author Topic: Trouble with Alaskan Mill, especially Mini Mill  (Read 1704 times)

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Offline Kevin

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Re: Trouble with Alaskan Mill, especially Mini Mill
« Reply #20 on: March 31, 2011, 05:39:11 pm »
Did you buy that mill used or new?
Pull on the chain mid bar, the driver should almost clear the groove but not clear it..
Don't tighten a hot chain, when it cools the chain will tighten up again.

Offline danf26

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Re: Trouble with Alaskan Mill, especially Mini Mill
« Reply #21 on: April 01, 2011, 09:03:17 am »
Mill is used, and lent to me by a friend. If all or some of this information would have been explained in a instruction manual or something of the like, man, would that have been useful.

Thanks for the chain info.

Offline Kevin

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Re: Trouble with Alaskan Mill, especially Mini Mill
« Reply #22 on: April 01, 2011, 09:18:03 am »
That mill looks modified, I wouldn't expect great results from using it.

Offline mad murdock

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Re: Trouble with Alaskan Mill, especially Mini Mill
« Reply #23 on: April 01, 2011, 03:23:41 pm »
I tension my chain just to the point that it does not hang loose on the bottom side of the bar, i.e. a very slight slack when pulled by the fingers, but it snaps back onto the bar.  Depends on the length of your bar, and size of chain to some extent, but you don't want it so tight that it causes heat build up, and you don't want it so loose that you are running the risk of throwing the chain every other time you throttle the saw.  I hope that the description helps, kind of hard to describe for me, as I have not thought too deeply on the subject. It's only been about 30+years since I first started running a saw in the woods :)  Still got all my limbs and phalanges though, so it can't be all bad. :D
'64 Garrett 15A, Granberg Alaskan III, Husky 372XP, McCulloch 10-10 auto, Poulan wild thing, Stihl 075, Mac 10-10A(RHP), Homlite 360, '71 Int'l 1110 Plus more toys

Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: Trouble with Alaskan Mill, especially Mini Mill
« Reply #24 on: April 01, 2011, 07:08:33 pm »
The guideline of being able to pull it about so far from the bar, or whether it snaps back in etc,  is very subjective.  It depends on how tight you grip it and how strong your fingers are.  After running chain slabbers a fair amount I have concluded the best guideline is to have it as loose as possible, but not so loose it comes off while you're milling.   If with a chain saw, I would guess that if you watch whatever chain is visible, like on that part of the bar which is not in the cut (  :) :) :) ), you would see some looseness or "slapping" of the chain if things are good but not enough where the chain is soon to de-rail.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT   W-M LT40SHDD w/42HP Kubota, Peterson WPF 10-30 with chain slabber. LogRite fetching arch, capstan PortaWinch, W-M CBN sharpener/dual setter. Rens P4000 Metal detector.

Offline danf26

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Re: Trouble with Alaskan Mill, especially Mini Mill
« Reply #25 on: April 01, 2011, 08:31:45 pm »
OK, guys. So pictures are up. Here's the link to my pictures regarding the Mini Mill: OFFSITE PHOTOS ARE NOT ALLOWED! So, basically the pictures tell the whole story. In taking the pictures, I realized much more about what was wrong, so I thank you all because it was knowing you guys would be looking at them that helped me diagnose.

In the process, I learned more about what wasnt right with the mill, and how to position it to give it the squarest cut. And, you'll be able to see the cut is pretty square, but totally uniform thruout. But definitely within a range Im happy about.

The ironic part, is this mill broke on me 7/8s of the way thru the cut. One of the screws broke in half. So, I imagine a brand spanking new Mini Mill might be in my future.

I hope you look thru the pictures, as a lot of them have descriptions and notes on them. Also, what is that blue stain on my freshly milled green oak?

Thank you all, seriously.

 


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