woods man pro .325 saw chain

[simplicityguy92]

what are some thoughts on woods man pro saw chain from baileys. does any one run the .325 chain on a 50cc saw i usally only run stihl chain . is woods man pro recomended

[kenskip1]

Sim, I have been using it on my Husky 51, and 445 on 116BC at .058 on both saws. I have not had any problem with it.Best bang for the buck! I plan to order some for my Husky 55.Ken

[ladylake]

 Most 50cc saws cut faster in bigger wood with .325 vs 3/8 which might be ok in smaller softwood with a good 50cc saw. I don't know about woodsman, I've been running carlton which works good for me.  The best way is to try a couple loops yourself.   Steve

[ladylake]

 Just to keep things staight chain comes in .50     .58   .63 gauge which is how wide the groove is in the bar.   Then there's 3/8 low profile which uses a different drive sprocket the regular 3/8,   then .325  and regular 3/8  and also .404 on big saws.  The .325 drive links are closer toeghter than the regular 3/8 which give the .325 slower chain speed but more torque to the chain.   Steve

[HolmenTree]

Fellas Woodsmen Pro chain is rebadged Carlton chain. I've used their .325 chain and found it is an excellent chain.

Only the diameter of the drive sprocket and powerhead hp / rpm determines the chain speed .

Willard.

[ladylake]

 And the diameter of a 7 tooth .325 is smaller than a 7 tooth 3/8 thus more torque and less chain speed with the .325.   Steve

[John Mc]

I've mostly been using Oregon 21 LPX (.058 gauge, .325 pitch, chisel chain) on my 50cc saw (a Jonsered 2152, sister saw to a Husky 353).

At the recommendation of several folks here on FF, I tried some of Bailey's WoodlandPro (28RC). I've only run one loop of it so far (last fall), but I was happy with it. It ran well enough that I'm going to try some more. I buy loops of Oregon at my local saw shop - I like to support them a bit. When I have an order for Bailey's, I'll usually throw a few loops on the order from them - next time it will be a few loops of WoolandPro.

I've not seen any semi-chisel chain in WoodlandPro in .325 pitch, so if you are looking for that you may be out of luck. I don't use semi-chisel anyway, since most of the wood I cut is fairly clean.

John Mc

[simplicityguy92]

i will probly buy a few loops of woodsman pro to test it out. i usally run .325 stihl chain on my ms250 for cutting softwoods and it cuts real fast but the sthil chain is 2x the price of woodsman pro. have any of you tried the skip tooth .325 from baileys. ive used home ground skip tooth but never store bought.

[sawguy21]

  I have never seen skip tooth in .325. What is the advantage (except for the guy that doesn't like to file)?

[HolmenTree]

  The .325 drive links are closer toeghter than the regular 3/8 which give the .325 slower chain speed but more torque to the chain.   Steve

And the diameter of a 7 tooth .325 is smaller than a 7 tooth 3/8 thus more torque and less chain speed with the .325.   Steve

You're saying 2 different things here , but now I see what you were trying to say the first time.

Willard.

[ladylake]

 Not really, the closer drive links on the .325 result in a smaller sprocket.  Steve

[HolmenTree]

Not really, the closer drive links on the .325 result in a smaller sprocket.  Steve

Well Steve you should have said that the first time

Just messing with you

Willard.

[ladylake]

 Guess I should have, now were on the same page.   Steve

[sharkey]

Im thinking of trying the Windsor 50JL chisel chain.  Anyone have any experience with it?

[Hanson]

I've been running woodsman pro now for a while on my STIHL 026 without a problem. Like HolmenTree said its just rebranded Carlton.

[John Mc]

Fellas Woodsmen Pro chain is rebadged Carlton chain.

Which is also sold under the "Total" brand name (or at least it was a few years ago... I haven't checked if it's still sold more recently).

I did have a problem with a couple of loops of Total chain 6 or 7 years ago. One or two depth gauges (rakers) on each loop was so hard it destroyed my flat file every time I tried to file it down a bit. Probably a problem in their heat treating operation. I stopped using them after having that problem. I'd been using them for a couple years before that without problem. I just tried a loop of the WoodlandPro last fall which was fine.

BTW... If ayone is trying to google the brand, what Bailey's sells is called "WoodlandPro", not "Woodsman Pro".

[JohnG28]

BTW... If ayone is trying to google the brand, what Bailey's sells is called "WoodlandPro", not "Woodsman Pro".
[/quote]

I thought that was what everyone was talking about here,  wasn't sure if I missed something.  I have a few loops of WoodlandPro chain and like it.  Seems good and the price is right.

[HolmenTree]

Im thinking of trying the Windsor 50JL chisel chain.  Anyone have any experience with it?

I never heard of 50JL , it might have been a chain developed after the Sandvik / Windsor joint venture. If it was anything like the 3/8" 50AL chisel then it would be a heck of a good chain, it was said to have the longest cutter in the industry. Very tough  chassis too with very little stretch which they called "the austempered chain chassis".
But I have used 50J and 50 JG semi chisel and it couldn't be beat for cutting hardwood and frozen timber in a .325 sized chain.

Willard.

[John Mc]

Very tough  chassis too with very little stretch which they called "the austempered chain chassis".

Austempering produces a microstructure known as Bainite. That should be a great structure for chainsaw chain. High hardness, good ductility, and not as "notch sensitive" as Martensite (the structure produced by more conventional quench and temper processing). It does tend to be a more expensive heat treatment. I wonder if others are using this structure as well?

John Mc

[SawTroll]

......
Only the diameter of the drive sprocket and powerhead hp / rpm determines the chain speed .

Willard.

Really the "diameter" that the chain rivets run at, and I want to add that it is about initial chain speed - then you need sufficient torque to keep the speed up in the wood.

"Fastest" can easily be slowest when all factors are brought into play.

[HolmenTree]

Very tough  chassis too with very little stretch which they called "the austempered chain chassis".

 I wonder if others are using this structure as well?

John Mc

This austempered info on the Windsor sawchain I learned of was in the early 1980s. I'm sure other companies are doing the same. I'm no expert on the technology, but when Sandvik from Sweden joined up with Windsor in 1986 they probably introduced alot of other alloy and tempering practices. That Sandvik is very good at right to this day.
 Sandvik broke away from Windsor in the 1990s, for what reasons I don't know. Windsor was back on their own again until the day Oregon- Blount bought them out, along with Carlton.........

Willard.

[Ed]

I have never seen skip tooth in .325. What is the advantage (except for the guy that doesn't like to file)?

Ship chain can have several advantages, the extra space between cutters allows more room for chips during the cut. Having only half the cutters reduces the cutting force required. Some guys use it so thay can run a longer bar than the saw is rated for.

I've found on really soft and wet woods, it makes a huge difference in cutting speeds.

Never used the .325 skip, to hard to find locally, I stick with .375 & .404

Ed

[sawguy21]

Ed, I certainly understand the advantages of skip. It is very popular here on the west coast for good reason. However, .325 is generally limited to saws under 60cc with 20" or shorter bars.