? for magicman and others

[albirk]

magicman you talk about hack and squirt ? is how do you hack and what do you squirt with the reason i ask i clean alot of fence rows for a farmer for my firewood he bought some brand x brush killer and the stumps looked like you planted 10 shrubs around them the fence row looks great in the spring but in the fall it is a bigger mess then before you start just would like to no what others spray the stumps with
thanks alan

[customsawyer]

Read the label and see if the tree you are trying to kill is on there. 

[ely]

use a 50% mix of glyphosate and water it should treat cut stumps on just about every species except two.  locust and mesquite are tough to kill but it gets em most times.

if its an area thats not wet typically you can also do well with a strong mixture of diesel and pichloram? thats not the spelling sorry. 

also if you are spraying cut stumps in the spring when the sap is rising it will throw off alot of the herbicide.

[sandhills]

We primarily use Tordon on fresh cut stumps here, I have a buddy that uses a cordless drill and drills down at an angle in the stump, then puts it in the whole to kill the tree before its cut down.  Basically same principle as MM's hack and squirt.

[RPF2509]

A good idea would be to consult with your county agricultural agent about what works and what is legal.  I agree that spring is a poor time for hack and squirt.  Usually late summer, fall and even winter if things don't freeze solid are the most effective time.  Diluting glyphosate may or may not be more effective.  Imazapyr (Arsenal trademark) can be very effective but can translocate through the soil or root grafts and damage other nearby species.  Again consult with local experts and be sure to read the product label before using.

[Brad_bb]

I use Toradon(sp?) here on my farm.  I cut and then paint with a brush.  Works great.  Mulberry is my primary problem.  They are very resilient if you don't systemically kill them.  I just cleaned my fence rows of small ones last week.   

[CX3]

Tordon is mean stuff.  Be careful with it, they say wherever it touches the ground that nothing will grow there for 20+ years.  Or so I've heard

[WDH]

Tordon is soil active, so don't slop it all over the place.  It is what I use.  When treating a stump or tree, the only part that is important to coat is the cambium which is between the inner bark and the solid wood.  Painting the entire stump instead of just the cambial ring is of no value, takes longer, and wastes herbicide.  Same hold true for hack-n-squirt.  The hack does not need to be deep as long as you penetrate to the cambium. 

[clww]

Tordon is mean stuff.  Be careful with it, they say wherever it touches the ground that nothing will grow there for 20+ years.  Or so I've heard

Where would I go to buy some of this "Tordon" stuff?

[Texas Ranger]

Danny, it has been 25 years since I used any Tordon, but I seem to remember that soil contact broke down Tordon.  Do I remember wrong?  Getting old, ya know.

[customsawyer]

Tordon is very soil active. I use it treating kudzu and the like but if you are putting out a high rate per acre you have to be careful of what is down stream.
Tordon is also a restricted use pesticide and you have to have a applicators license to buy. 

[Norm]

You can buy tordon RTU at most farm supply stores. You do not need an applicators license to buy it or use it.

[Brad_bb]

Yes there are a lot of warnings with Tordon.  There are limits as to how much can be used per acre etc. and how it can be.  Use it sparingly!  I use it mostly on small Mulberry from pencil size up to about 4 inches.  Using it on heartwood would not be effective, but mulberry doesn't have much heartwood unless it is big.  You want it to be drawn into the trees circulation system.  I obtained some from a farmer with license, but I am  very careful with the stuff, both in it's application, and my personal safety. I've learned alot about this stuff and other fungicides and pesticides (through my grape growing) . Many herbicides will go inert after a period of time.  I can't remember on Tordon unless I read the info again.  I apply it with a small paint brush and don't slop it around. I've had very good success with it killing the small mulberry trees after I've cut them, but thankfully don't have to use very much.  The same bottle has lasted for years.  Whatever you do, read and understand all the manufacturer information.

[JV]

Has anyone used Garlon or Remedy?  Looks like Garlon runs $300-$350 for a minimum of 2.5 gallons.  If I read the online label right, it mixes 50:l with water.  Remedy runs $100 + a gallon and mixes 3:1 with diesel fuel or kerosene.  I don't believe they are restricted use.  I let my applicators license lapse years ago and haven't kept up.

[WDH]

Garlon is great.  I use it as the preferred foliar spray in a 3% solution.  Mix in 3% roundup and you have a mix that will kill broadleaf hardwoods and grasses.  Neither is soil active, but this mix will kill most anything that you get it on. 

[CX3]

I get tordon at any local farm supply.  I think you do need a applicators license if buying it in bulk jugs, but I am not certain about that.  You can buy it over the counter in the little bottles without a license

[WDH]

I am not sure if the small bottles are full strength or not.

I think that Remedy is the generic for Garlon 4.

[Don_Papenburg]

I use generic glyphosate straight up ,applied with a brush to the mulberry stump .  Just paint it on wet with fullcoverage. tree quits growing.

[WildDog]

WDH hit the nail on the head, just paint the cambian layer.

Not sure how relevant it is for you guys on that side of the world. Down here I use Tordon or straight roundup for stem injection, some of the generic glysophates are very thin and I have found some regrowth on our eucalyptus, for honey locusts and in riparian zones I basal bark with a mix of diesel and starane (picloram should do it) just use a backpack and spray the trunk for a couple of feet.

[Norm]

They've dropped the price of the real roundup so much you can buy it for what they sell the generic for. Be careful of what you buy labeled as roundup because some of the extended use kinds have soil active additives with it. I have well water so I do not like using anything that persists. The tordon rtu has a popup top and you can use just a tiny bit around the stump edge like Danny says. Never had one come back from that.

[Magicman]

I have been on the road sawing for a few days, but anyway, at first I used Pathway.  I was a bit disappointed because I thought that it wasn't working, but it's just slower.  Last year I used 8oz or Arsenal per gallon of water.  That worked and fast.  I paid $535 for a 2½ gallon jug, which will go a looong way.  I have used Remedy, but am satisfied with my present mix.

[albirk]

thanks for all the tips i'm one the road now so i can't look at the bottle but i think it is for around the house use so it will not kill flowers and things it was a quart bottle that you mixed 1 cup to ten gallon of water it may not kill a stump if poured on without mixing with water
thanks alan

[miking]

I use Garlon or Element 4 for basal bark applications frequently in the non-growing seasons , mostly late fall and winter but it is useful year round. It is an oil base herbicide and its cousin 3A, both Garlon and Element trade names is water based like Round-Up and others. I don't know which of these I like better in the growing season but 3A is a little more long-termed in its effectiveness as it takes longer to break down than Round-Up. Someone mentioned black locust a ways back and 50% Round-Up is killer on it if applied cut-stump or in a frill cut in late fall.