Author Topic: New Member/New to rebuilding (Read 1973 times)

05_sprcrw · « **on:** March 03, 2011, 08:07:51 am »

First off I would like to say thank you to everyone on this forum I have been lurking and reading a lot on this forum for the last 2 weeks. You have taught me a lot already and I can't wait to learn more.

I just picked up 2 394xp parts saws (both had different things wrong with them) and I will be able to combine them into 1 working saw. Anyway I am going through it now and won't have any problems with any of that thanks to all your posts on others 394xp rebuilds.

I have always ran a 7 tooth 3/8ths drum but these saws have sprockets on them. I was wondering what the difference is in an 8 tooth and a 7 tooth sprocket is? I am trying to decide which one to go with. I will run a 28" bar on this for some particularly large oak trees we have down in the creek now and in the future. It will see 99% of the time only hardwoods we don't have any softwood around here that would get that big to warrant the use of this saw.

I also was wondering about removing the base gasket to get a tad more compression. I have read about guys doing that and if it is safe and worth it I will go ahead and leave that gasket off when I go to reassemble the top end. If I do leave that gasket off do I need to do anything to make sure it seals up properly?

I do plan on porting the muffler because I picked up one of the knock offs that have a small hole instead and I would rather have it move a little more air by opening it up. Any other suggestions to make this saw come alive.

TYIA

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #1 on:** March 04, 2011, 08:39:38 am »

Ok I figured out the squish issue I am picking up some Dirko liquid gasket maker to lower the cylinder and gain a little compression.

I will mod the muffler soon and will add the heavy duty air filter that seems like my best bet for "safe and easy mods" that I can handle myself.

I still can not find much out about the sprocket differences.

How hard are these saws to start, I have thought about adding a primer bulb to the saw if it would help them start easier.

One other question I have is where would a good place to sell extra parts I have? I have duplicates of just about every single item since I bought 2 parts saws that are good and I won't use them.

weimedog · « **Reply #2 on:** March 04, 2011, 12:01:42 pm »

Put up some pics as you step along! Also for base gaskets and other either pressure or exposed to gasoline apps you would probably do well to get your hands on either Yamabond or Three Bond 1194 gasket materials.

John Mc · « **Reply #3 on:** March 06, 2011, 11:05:34 am »

Quote from: 05_sprcrw on March 04, 2011, 08:39:38 am

One other question I have is where would a good place to sell extra parts I have? I have duplicates of just about every single item since I bought 2 parts saws that are good and I won't use them.

You might try Chainsawr (http://store.chainsawr.com/), one of our forum sponsors on the right hand side of the screen. They sell used parts, probably buy them also. I've not had any personal dealings with them, but have heard very good things about them.

John Mc

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #4 on:** March 07, 2011, 07:26:31 am »

Thanks guys for the input I will also check with chainsawr about the used parts. I have purchased things from them and Baileys but I had no idea that chainsawr would purchase used parts.

And an update, I built my own crank case splitter over the weekend and got the case split and I stripped the paint and it has a fresh coat of husky orange on it right now drying. I am putting 2 more coats on and then I will be ready to start putting it back together.

I forgot the camera at home but I will be sure to post up some pictures when I remember to bring the camera in.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #5 on:** March 07, 2011, 09:01:32 am »

Well do what you want but were it I,I believe I would hang on to those parts .It's a lot easier to sort through a bunch in a box rather than track them down for triple the amount you have in them .Keep at it long enough you'll have boxes of parts then forget where you put them .

You can pop the base gasket and hog out the muffler and that gets more than most would be tickled to death to have .It won't run any faster but it will have some more grunt in the pull than totally stock as a normal rule .

I have no idea about Husqvarna but Stihl base gaskets are 20 thou thick .Probabley using sealant that would lower the cylinder about 18 thou give or take .Most likely add about 3-4 degrees longer exhaust and increase the intake a few .The blow down will remain about the same ,just shifted a tad .Try it ! If it doesn't work clean the goo off the cylnder and crankcase and stick the gasket back in .

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #6 on:** March 07, 2011, 10:02:31 am »

Thanks for those tips Al. I have been thinking about holding on to them as well I keep flip flopping back and forth on what to do.

And I think I will go a head and put the gasket on to start so I can see if I do gain anything by eliminating it and modding the muffler. Just more of a nice to know where I started type of deal. I don't want to hot rod it by any means but if I can do a little light work and get some beneficial gains for very little cash, I would be dumb not to do it.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #7 on:** March 07, 2011, 10:43:48 am »

Well you have to start someplace ,we all did at some point in time .

It isn't something you have to jump into feet first .Take your time, it's not a race .

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #8 on:** March 08, 2011, 08:48:51 am »

Will do definitely a fan of taking my time and doing it right.

And as promised here are pictures:

Will change soon I have to upload pictures here instead of --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--.

This is where I stand as of now with it. Hoping to have it assembled by the end of the weekend if everything goes smooth from here on out.

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #9 on:** March 08, 2011, 09:02:19 am »

You can see the paint wrinkled in a few spots

I am in the middle of fixing these spots now.

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #10 on:** March 09, 2011, 07:57:00 am »

I made my own assembly tool to help press bearings and seals in.

Starting to reassemble

Crankshaft and Piston together

Chain break assembled

Then I got busy and forgot to take more pictures, here is where I left off and will resume tonight after work.

cgk60 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 09, 2011, 09:14:42 am »

Good job , I would like to rebuild one of my old partner S-55 saws. Just haven't had time yet. I have the gasket set and the seals, still need to get the bearings.

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #12 on:** March 10, 2011, 07:58:50 am »

Well I am rounding the bend on this project. I just have to put a pin in the chain break band and a spring on and it will be ready for its first start up. I checked compression last night and it was around 150 with new rings is that good? That seems pretty fair considering it is a used cylinder and piston.

Here it is all completed minus those few pieces and I forgot to put that handle cut out in it before the pictures. My first build is in the bag and the best part is........ I have no extra pieces left over

A little bigger then my 455 I would say

sharkey · « **Reply #13 on:** March 12, 2011, 05:26:06 am »

Very nice job! Great paint match too.

150psi cold compression is spot on. Should increase as the rings seat.

One tip for you on the bearings for next time because I see many more saws in your future! Bearings in the deep freezer ovenight. Cases in the oven on 300f for 30-45 minutes before your ready to assemble. Put your mittens on and the bearings will slip right into place.

If you dont have a copy and would like one of the Husky 394xp shop manual, send me your email address via a private message and I will forward a pdf copy back to you.

ladylake · « **Reply #14 on:** March 12, 2011, 06:31:01 am »

You sure could try a 8 tooth on that saw, I'd guess cutting speed would be close in big oak. Steve

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #15 on:** March 14, 2011, 08:38:09 am »

Thanks for the tips sharkey and ladylake.

I think I will give an 8 tooth a go for smaller bars (20"-24") and anything over 28" I will run a 7 tooth.

I did bake the crankcase halves at 200° for about 2 hours before I was ready to put the bearings in. I used that bolt more or less to apply even pressure to make sure they slid in even and not crooked (same reason for the seals). I will be sending you a pm it would be nice to have that on hand thank you for that generous offer!

And I got a bar on it this weekend and got the carb tuned it fired right up and I did a little bit of cutting with it. I must say I am very impressed with this saw, and as you stated I think I will be making more saw purchases in the future.

And this is probably my favorite picture of the saw.

countryhog · « **Reply #16 on:** March 18, 2011, 11:22:48 am »

so were you able to salvage the labels?

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #17 on:** March 18, 2011, 12:29:05 pm »

I was not able to salvage the lables I have new ones on order and should be here in about a week.

Cut4fun · « **Reply #18 on:** March 18, 2011, 01:31:22 pm »

very nice.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #19 on:** March 19, 2011, 07:20:13 am »

Looken good .Some times on a used cylinder the comp is right there from the onset and some times it takes a little run in before it perks up .

Yoopersaw · « **Reply #20 on:** March 19, 2011, 06:18:23 pm »

Very nice.

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #21 on:** March 20, 2011, 08:43:45 am »

Thanks for the compliments guys I am very happy with how it turned out.

And Al I will retest compression here in a few more outings to make sure they are good and seated.

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #22 on:** March 28, 2011, 07:51:53 am »

One last question for you guys, do these saws normally puke bar oil out of the vent tube? Mine seems like it pukes quiet a bit of bar oil out of that small breather tube that is in the oil tank. Is there ways I can slow it down or reposition the tube so it does not do that as much?

ladylake · « **Reply #23 on:** March 28, 2011, 08:06:25 am »

Good job, it's feels good to get old saws running doesn't it. Plus you save a lot of money when you don't have to haul a saw to a dealer. Steve

Al_Smith · « **Reply #24 on:** March 29, 2011, 06:38:45 am »

I don't know what to tell you about that oil issue .Firstly I'm not really much up on Husqvarnas and secondly I don't recall ever owning a saw that didn't spit some oil here and there . Come to think about I can't recall owning anything that took oil that didn't eventually leak oil given enough time .

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #25 on:** March 30, 2011, 07:23:03 am »

I agree a small leak is not bad but in 4 days it leaked all my bar oil out of the breather tube to me that seems like something is going on. I turned the vent tube up and moved it to the highest point in the oil tank I could get it to so I will see if that as enough to solve the problem.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #26 on:** March 30, 2011, 07:59:43 am »

I'm not familiar with this saw at all but it sounds like the oil is wicking off by capillary action .

It might be such a thing as it needs some type of check valve .Maybe a couple of small threaded set screws in the vent like Stihl used for fuel tank vents on older models would do the trick .

Now I have no idea how or why those little screws work but they do .

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #27 on:** March 30, 2011, 08:28:32 am »

I will check into that thanks for the idea the breather tube was in the lower part of the tank and was riding in the back of the truck. I am wondering if it didn't start a siphon and just kept sucking the oil out of the tank slowly.

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #28 on:** April 08, 2011, 07:43:36 am »

Well I figured out the oil leaking problem, I had the vent tube pushed down into the lower corner of the saw and it was able to siphon itself out of the saw, I moved to on top of the filler hole where a bolt go through it sits there awesome and is almost always held completely out of the oil so I don't have to worry about that anymore. Thanks for the help guys.

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Author Topic: New Member/New to rebuilding (Read 1973 times)