Author Topic: building a log forwarding trailer (Read 8103 times)

logman81 · « **on:** February 22, 2011, 09:58:03 am »

I've been kicking around the idea about building a off road log forwarding trailer with loader to tow behind my 40hp tractor. Much like the Hardy and Metavic ones. I'm pretty good with metal working skills and have most of the tools needed to do it. I've got some basic plans from sawmillplans.com so I do have something to go by. Any thoughts or advice on this would be very help full.

redlaker1 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2011, 10:18:27 am »

I was thinking of building one as well, but never got around to it.

the one thing I wasnt sure about was the swing system, not sure if there is something available that you can buy? and would you need 359degree swing, or just 90degrees each way?

logman81 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2011, 11:43:34 am »

The plans that I've got say to use a hydraulic orbit motor with roller chain and sprockets. This would make it a continues rotation swing system. The question I have is how to mount the main shaft to the loader mount. Maybe I could use some sort of tapered roller bearings or something like that. It would need to be built very strong because it would hold the weight of the boom plus log/logs.

Coon · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2011, 02:12:56 pm »

I have been building just what you are talking about for quite some time now. I have had it on the back burner for close to a year now but just dug it out of the snow a couple of days ago. If you look in my gallery there are a few pics of it there. I have a few more that I took yesterday but have not uploaded to the forum yet. Will get on it shortly though and post them. I have a couple of questions for the forum to ponder as well.

Brad.

P.S. I just brought up my old thread called Hydraulics Help Needed in the General Board. You might wanna read.

logman81 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2011, 05:18:41 pm »

That's pretty neat Coon keep up the good work. I'm going to use a mono- beam design for mine and run it off of the tractor hydraulics. Got it pretty much all figured out just need to start getting the things I need to start on it.

Maine372 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2011, 05:43:09 pm »

you wouldnt neccesarily need 360degree or continous rotation since the tractor will usually be in the way of going straight off the front. i would think 270 degrees would be sufficient. thats 45 degrees past perpendicular to the frame each way.

Ford_man · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2011, 06:38:39 pm »

You may want to consider mounting a 3PT hitch backhoe on the front of the trailer you can pick up a used one real reasonable You can get a small grapple from Hudsons.
The Hyd. pump runs off the PTO

logman81 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 22, 2011, 07:33:08 pm »

I have a small 3 pt backhoe but I want to build the loader myself from scratch. I plan on buying a grapple and rotator assembly from vallby. I'm going to run the loader off the tractor pump, it is already plumbed to the back of the tractor for the backhoe so I will run it off that.

Coon · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2011, 07:50:45 pm »

logman,

I have decided that I will be setting my log trailer up to run off of tractor hydraulics and also have a hydraulic powerpack set up for when I have the trailer behind an atv/utv or pickup. The rotator that I have for the main boom requires an oil bath to keep the bearings lubed. What I figure on doing is to build my hydraulic tank underneath it and mounting the rotator into the top, thus killing two birds with one stone. If you look in these two pics you can see what I mean.

Brad.

isawlogs · « **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2011, 08:09:40 pm »

Nice pics, where are you putting the oil filter? if you have the rotator in the tank , and normaly the filter is on the return line, I would be afraid of shrapnal coming off the rotator and contaminatingthe iol in the tank .. then again might not be an issue . $:-\$

snowstorm · « **Reply #10 on:** February 22, 2011, 08:16:43 pm »

rotator in the oil tank?

?? no......no.........no no

isawlogs · « **Reply #11 on:** February 22, 2011, 08:24:42 pm »

I don't think that rotator will be rotating enough to warant an in tank install , grease the *&?% out of it and leave it alone. Not like it was on the business end of a loader unloading wood in a mill yard .

logman81 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 22, 2011, 08:48:13 pm »

I would have to agree with isawlogs keep it simple and keep it lubed! I'm going to use a orbit motor with double roller chain and sprockets for boom rotation when I build mine.

Coon · « **Reply #13 on:** February 22, 2011, 09:02:42 pm »

I don't see why it would not work to have the rotator in the tank like I have shown. I have to keep the rotator system raised up a bit to provide room for the sprocket to turn freely. Like I said the bearings inside need an oil bath. I was planning on putting the oil filter in the return line just before the tank. There should be no shrapnel coming off of anything, unless the chain decides to break. I have a large magnet that could be fixed to the bottom of the tank to cover this issue.

Brad.

barbender · « **Reply #14 on:** February 23, 2011, 10:24:53 am »

There was a member on here not too long ago that built one from scratch, grapple and all, and it was well documented with photos. I'm sure a search would turn it up.

logman81 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 23, 2011, 05:07:03 pm »

Thanks barbender I thought there was some one building one awhile back. I going to use the mono beam design, The main beam will be 6x6x1/4 wall square tubing, the log poles will be made out of 2x4x1/4 rectangle tubing and 2x1/4 wall Dom tubing that will be bent into the shape I need. It will also have a boogie setup 8 ply tires, I got most of it worked out!

I'm also going to purchase a 36'' vallby grapple and rotator with a half hanger. I also planning on using joy stick control valve just need to find where to get one.

John Mc · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2011, 06:38:26 pm »

I am about as far from an expert on this as you can get, but...

I wouldn't be too nuts about running it off the tractor hydraulics. Working in the forest with this is a rough application. If you do break a line or develop other problems, how long before you pump all your tractor's hydraulic fluid overboard? If you are going to have a hydraulic power pack for ATV use anyway, why not just keep the systems isolated? It would also prevent cross-contamination if you had a problem in one system.

redlaker1 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 23, 2011, 06:42:47 pm »

as for having the chain drive and swing bearings in the hydraulic tank, I would avoid that for sure, even if you have to make a gear case to house the oil for those components. with only a return filter, if anything happens to that chain or bearing your pump is going to eat that and die.

logman you seem to have a good plan, joysticks are nice for sure, after running hoe alot its hard to go back to the old sticks... something like this would probably work https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7677&catname=hydraulic

of course you will need a 5th circuit for the rotator, or a selector valve with a button to switch between rotator and grapple. and possibly a 6th circuit if you want stabilizers.

its also good to have load checks on anything that will be lifting or holding a load

I have been eyeing up those valby grapples/rotators for my mini excavator, they sure look like they would be nice.

logman81 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 23, 2011, 07:07:49 pm »

Thanks redlaker1 I think I'm going to need 6 circuit valve bank. I'm going to contact a few of the the log trailer makers like metavic or maybe baileys and see if they will sell me one of theirs. I know that it wont be cheap but I got to have the joysticks.

Thanks for the tip on the load checks I will keep that in mind. The grapples do look like nice units there is a place on ebay that is selling them. 36'' with rotator and free shiping $1900 I think. Has anyone bought one from them before? I forgot them name of the place but seems like a decent price.

barbender · « **Reply #19 on:** February 23, 2011, 08:57:37 pm »

todd.crow is the member who built one, I found the thread but I am not smart enough to link to it.

Coon · « **Reply #20 on:** February 24, 2011, 01:33:31 am »

For starters the reason why I was going to set it up so that it can be run from either a power pack or a tractor is due to the room available on the hitch system. I still may mount the powerpack there yet...... lots of cogitating to do still.

Again the available room for the gearbox/hydraulic tank setup is why I thought of using one tank. I am still not exactly sure of how big of a hydraulic resevoir I am going to be using. I do still have this tank which is just under 3 US gallons. It has both in and out filters.

Would this tank be big enough? How many gpm of flow should I have for a pump for this set up?

Brad.

Ironwood · « **Reply #21 on:** February 24, 2011, 07:32:07 am »

Good thread, want to follow along, Ironwood

isawlogs · « **Reply #22 on:** February 24, 2011, 08:32:19 am »

If you are going to use the in tank gear , why not use the three gllon tank as an filter for the pump and use it with the other tank

That way you would have your in oil gear and a filter for you pump!

Hilltop366 · « **Reply #23 on:** February 24, 2011, 08:38:57 am »

I was wondering if a cut off axle tube and hub from a truck or school bus would work, not sure which way would be best bolt hub to frame and mount loader on tube or flip over and mount loader on hub, then I got to thinking that if it would work why not keep the centre on and use the crown and pinion gears for pivot of loader by installing the rear end vertically.

Remove one axle and cut most of tube off leaving enough for a lower mount, weld mount plate on the tube end and install drain plug. Shorten up top tube and axle to desired length, turn end of tube to line up the spring mount to trailer for a place to bolt top of rear end, add slow turning motor coupled to pinion shaft to power rotation. the differential would have to be locked and the hub bearing would require grease because it would no longer be in gear oil but it might work. What do you think?

pineywoods · « **Reply #24 on:** February 24, 2011, 09:27:33 am »

Hilltop, methinks that you have the right idea. Back before the knuckleboom loaders and grapples, just about every pulpwood truck in the south had a rotating boom made out of a truck or school bus rear end, mounted vertical with the boom welded to the hub. No hydraulics, just a cable hooked to a homemade winch powered off a pto on the truck tranny. No cutting down the bud rear end, just mounted it vertical and braced it good.

Ironwood · « **Reply #25 on:** February 24, 2011, 12:31:38 pm »

That is great stuff, love it. Nothing ever wasted.

Ironwood

Coon · « **Reply #26 on:** February 24, 2011, 01:31:10 pm »

Marcel, I was thinkin that if this hydraulic tank was not big enough I could just remove the filters and such off of it and use them in the tank I will be building. From my research I have found that I would require atleast 2-3 gallons flow for a pump and that the tank should be atleast twice as big as the flow. This in itself tells me that this little tank does not have enough capacity for what I need. I need to get out my graph paper and start drawing something up.

-30 C is too darn cold to be outside welding and such anyhow as my feet get cold if I am standing in one spot too long. I will see what I can come up with today.

Brad.

ickirby · « **Reply #27 on:** February 24, 2011, 02:49:19 pm »

Quote from: barbender on February 23, 2011, 08:57:37 pm

todd.crow is the member who built one, I found the thread but I am not smart enough to link to it.

Link to the todd.crow forwarding trailer build thread

logman81 · « **Reply #28 on:** February 24, 2011, 06:25:40 pm »

Some neat stuff guys. Lumberjack48 thanks for the info,that is a nice little dray but to small for my needs. I'm going to build one that can haul 16' logs and will have a floating boogie setup.

logman81 · « **Reply #29 on:** February 25, 2011, 12:07:48 pm »

I have a question about what type of shafting I should use for the main loader shafting. I was thinking about using 3 1/2'' 4140 but it is not the easiest to weld. It needs to be strong because it will bare the weight of the loader arm and grapple plus the weight of the logs. It needs to be weldable because I will be welding a sprocket to it. Let me know what you think I'm planning on starting on the project in a few weeks if everything goes to plan.

lumberjack48 · « **Reply #30 on:** February 25, 2011, 02:05:35 pm »

That Hill lake dray handled 16' logs , a lot of guys put a another axle under them, made it pull a little easier. We used it for loading trucks, sorting and piling wood on landing, besides skidding.
On good going my dad put 2 cords on it.

logman81 · « **Reply #31 on:** February 25, 2011, 05:06:38 pm »

I didn't realize that it could handle 16' logs it looked kind of short. I would rather build my own using my design that way I get exactly what I want for my needs. And when it is finished and thoroughly tested I my decide to manufacture them and sell them locally as I do with the log skidding arches and firewood conveyors that I build in my spare time.

Stephen Alford · « **Reply #32 on:** February 25, 2011, 05:40:08 pm »

Hey logman81, just a couple of thoughts. I prefer to have the loader on the back,over the years the work space behind the trailer has worked for me. The other advantage is I can back the tractor up to the trailer and just have the loader on the 3 pt hitch for hourly jobs. On an off road unit I have found the fold out legs to work better than ther telescope style. Personal preference I guess. there are some pics in the gallery. Good luck with the build.

logman81 · « **Reply #33 on:** February 25, 2011, 07:16:47 pm »

Thanks for the thoughts Stephen and thanks for wishing me luck.

logman81 · « **Reply #34 on:** February 26, 2011, 07:01:49 pm »

Still looking for suggestions on what type of steel I should use for the construction of the main loader shaft. I was thinking 4140 but not sure. It needs to be a weldable metal because I,m going to need to weld a sprocket to it.

Ironwood · « **Reply #35 on:** February 26, 2011, 07:13:49 pm »

I hear you on weldable, but can you put some type of sprocket mounting fange, weld that to the mast and bolt the sprocket to that (if the sprocket wears out or breaks you dont have to go back thru the welding process. Just a thought.

Ironwood

logman81 · « **Reply #36 on:** February 26, 2011, 07:32:24 pm »

That is a grate idea Ironwood I think I might just do that it makes sense to do that thanks.

logman81 · « **Reply #37 on:** February 26, 2011, 07:38:58 pm »

What do you think I should use for the loader mast 4140 or another metal?

mog5858 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 26, 2011, 08:37:02 pm »

if you are going to weld 4140 make shere you take the sweat out of the steel. or you could have underbead cracking.

Ironwood · « **Reply #39 on:** February 26, 2011, 09:18:01 pm »

Sorry, no expert at alloys, I have a local friend who I quiz on that when I need to.

Ironwood

logman81 · « **Reply #40 on:** February 27, 2011, 09:47:04 am »

mog5858 I'm not to sure on what you mean by taking the sweat out of the steel. I'm used to working with mild steel and aluminum, Do you mean preheating it before welding?

UN Hooker · « **Reply #41 on:** February 27, 2011, 07:30:03 pm »

For a joy-stick loader valve you may want to look at this one. For the money its a pretty decent valve.
http://baileynet.com/index.php?id=31&productcategory=1000010 Look at #220-951.
I have a 4 spool one - they did not have the 6 spool when I bought mine.
UN

logman81 · « **Reply #42 on:** February 27, 2011, 08:31:01 pm »

Thanks UN Hooker that is really close to what I'm looking for just missing on lever.

I need one that has the two four position joy sticks plus two levers to operate the stabilizers and one to open and close the grapple, like the one on the baileys log loaders.

barbender · « **Reply #43 on:** March 01, 2011, 09:36:28 am »

I ran a little loader that had joysticks with the seperate lever for the grapple open/close, I thought it was kind of a joke. I'd way rather have a switch controlled solenoid so the switch could be mounted right on your joystick. The other configuration was way too slow, you basically had to let go of the stick so you could grab the grapple control.

logman81 · « **Reply #44 on:** March 01, 2011, 04:56:52 pm »

I understand your point but I want to keep it simple and not get to involved with electronic stuff!

redlaker1 · « **Reply #45 on:** March 01, 2011, 06:53:20 pm »

if you dont want to go electric you could put a hydraulic selector valve on a foot pedal to control the grapple circuit. foot on for rotation, foot off for grapple.

if you do go electric its pretty simple really, you could put a button on the joystick, or a foot button like the ones that old ford trucks had for the dimmer switch. as long as you have 12v power you are good to go.

this is what I am going to do if I put a grapple/rotator on my excavator, as I only have one aux hyd circuit

todd.crow · « **Reply #46 on:** March 01, 2011, 11:30:00 pm »

As someone has mentioned I have been building a boom and grapple for my log trailer. It has been pushed to the back burner by several projects. I hope to be able to get back to it before spring and the farm field work begins again.
I also bought the plans from sawmillplans.com, but I think the only thing I used from them was the idea of the hyd motor for the swing system.

There were so few specs in those plans it rendered them basically useless. I designed my version with a 3D design program called Alibre.

The swing shaft on my boom is 3 3/4" 4140 steel. We did not welded to it, it sits in a sleeve and is held by 2 set screws.

On the shaft rides 2 tapered wheel bearings (the same as in a Semi rear axle). We machined into a 6 1/2" by 5/8 wall tubing places for the race to go and then welded the attachment point for the boom to the tubing. The swing gear is bolted to a flange that is also welded to the tubing.

For the hyd valves I decided to use two valves, a 2 spool for the outriggers and then a five spool for the boom/grapple. I plan on a seat mounted to the swivel where I can operate the boom so having 2 valve bodies works out fine.

You could do something similar, just remove one valve from the backhoe valve configuration, and add it to a single stacking valve.

Todd

Coon · « **Reply #47 on:** March 02, 2011, 01:09:59 am »

I was just looking up info on the two sets of control valves that I have here to use on my project. I have a 5 spool bank made by Prince and the other set is FPS which was bought out by Parker and is a 4 spool bank. The nice thing I found out about the Parker valves that I have is that for $150 plus taxes and shipping and such I can buy a dual joystick conversion kit.

I see this as a bonus to what I was planning on doing. I will set up the valve as I currently have it now but will also set it up so I can convert it at a later date when I have the money for the conversion kit. Now all I need is a pump and a motor for the grapple rotator.

I am putting on both banks of valves to give me other options as well. In the future I will be building a dump box with a sand spreader on the back. I will be able to load the box with a hoe bucket and be able to dump the box and use the spreader or convert it all back to use as log trailer.

This is the bank that will be converted to dual joysticks.

Brad.

logman81 · « **Reply #48 on:** March 02, 2011, 06:17:07 am »

Tod.crow it looks like you have a very good design going there. Do you think I could weld a sprocket collar to the 4140 shaft then bolt the sprocket to that. How would I weld the collar to the shaft? Would I have to use a collar made of 4140 or can use mild steel and can I use my mig to weld it. Were did you get the sprockets from? Sorry for all the questions but want to make sure I have everything all figured out before I start building. I would have to agree about those plans I'm basically using them for the basic concept not the actual design.

todd.crow · « **Reply #49 on:** March 02, 2011, 10:36:27 am »

If you look at my shaft, there are 2 pieces to the shaft. A shaft of 3 3/4 with a collar that we machined to have a ID 10 thousands smaller than the OD of the shaft. We heated the collar in the oven to as hot as we could get, while the shaft was in the freezer. We then (in a hurry) took the collar and slid it over the shaft and once the collar became the same temp as the shaft (took about 10 seconds) it will never move again.

We avoided welding on the shaft. Didn't want to create any places for cracks to form. You can get Drawn of Mandrel tubing that can slip over your shaft to weld your base/boom to.

I purchased my sprockets from Surplus Center. I did have to use the mill to machine out the centers to fit over the tube that they attach to.

Todd

barbender · « **Reply #50 on:** March 02, 2011, 12:36:07 pm »

hey todd.crow, good to see your back, hope you get back to your loader soon, I can't wait to see the finished result. Logman, I would suggest you find a loader that has the controls you're looking at and try it, if you've ran any log loaders I don't think you'll like it. You need to be able to open/close the grapple while the rest of the loader is moving to be effecient at all, having to stop the operation so you can run the grapple isn't too smooth

Truck loaders have the swing on foot pedals, and the grapple is left hand side to side if I remember right (it's the motion that usually swings the boom on an excavator, when I first started on a center mount every time I tried to swing left I dumped my wood on the ground

) If you have a seat set up you could go with a foot swing, but I think a 2 way solenoid that would switch between grapple rotate and open close would be pretty simple and would make it way faster to load with. My .02

bill m · « **Reply #51 on:** March 02, 2011, 08:35:27 pm »

logman81, for what you are doing a separate lever for opening and closing the grapple in between the joy sticks should not be a problem. The log loader on my Metavic is set up that way and works fine. Having to take your hand off the joystick to operate the grapple only adds 2 or 3 seconds to the cycle time for each stick so with a load of firewood (about 30 pieces ) it adds less than a minute and a half for loading time.

logman81 · « **Reply #52 on:** March 03, 2011, 07:18:17 am »

That's what I was thinking bill m I just want to keep it simple and easy to operate. I'm not worried about high production and I don't think 2-3 seconds is going to make that much difference. Hey bill m do you know the manufacture of the control valve? I really like metavic's setup seams easy to operate. Any pics of your machine?

brendonv · « **Reply #53 on:** March 03, 2011, 04:22:42 pm »

On the Farma Loaders, the brand is HydroControl Model 12174. I know you didn't ask me but worth throwing out there. I know this because I'm currently adding a flow control valve to mine, it's all fresh in the brain.

Bill at HydroControl is very helpful.

Left stick is upper boom and mast rotation. Next is left outrigger, right out rigger, then grapple open close, and lower boom and grapple rotation. I think.

Very user friendly setup.

Uses 1/2" BSPP Ports, and you can get them to convert to anything.

logman81 · « **Reply #54 on:** March 03, 2011, 07:14:24 pm »

Thanks brendonv that helps a lot I really appreciate it. Did you get a chance to take pictures of the loader boom? May I ask why you are putting a flow control on it is it operating to fast for you?

logman81 · « **Reply #55 on:** March 03, 2011, 07:26:23 pm »

brendonv do you have a website for hydrocontrol?

brendonv · « **Reply #56 on:** March 04, 2011, 06:19:20 am »

This weekend I can get the pics for you.

Adding a flow control for a crappy designed hydraulic system from Farma, or JMS. The upper boom has no counter balance valve, so if the stick drops too fast, then when the stick hits vertical, the cylinder stalls as it waits for the pump to catch up and fill the empty side of the cylinder. I am going to slow down the drop with a flow control valve, or try to anyways. They don't even have filters on them either from factory. I have one in the barn that just came in the mail this week for it.

It might be Brian, not Bill actually for hydrocontrol.

http://www.hydrocontrol-inc.com/en/company/sedi-hydrocontrol-nel-mondo

logman81 · « **Reply #57 on:** March 04, 2011, 07:01:08 am »

Thanks brendonv for the link but I could not find the specific valve. Does your valve have two four way levers? All the ones I saw on the site were two lever valves. I can't believe it doesn't have a filter on it that's just not right at all.

brendonv · « **Reply #58 on:** March 04, 2011, 03:49:57 pm »

Yes, two four way levers. 5 levers in total.

Call them up.

I took pics for you this morning, I'll e-mail them tonight.

brendonv · « **Reply #59 on:** March 04, 2011, 04:44:31 pm »

Just sent ya pics.

redlaker1 · « **Reply #60 on:** March 05, 2011, 08:34:37 pm »

as brendonv said you didnt ask but I will put in my last plug for the selector valve.

having to take my hands off the controls to go from grapple to rotation would drive me nuts... but then again I am used to running hoe and continuous motion. its just so much more fluid and smooth to be able to quickly go back and forth with the grapple functions.

the cost wouldnt be much more if any, and its really simple to plumb. but if you dont load wood that often or do it for a living then I guess its not a big deal

looking forward to some more pictures of the progress on these projects. I really enjoy seeing peoples projects

if I didnt have a mini excavator with a thumb and a dump trailer already I would probably be building one of these. but I am getting by at the moment

logman81 · « **Reply #61 on:** March 06, 2011, 08:01:11 am »

I'll stick with the lever to open and close the grapple it's not that big of a deal to me it would be better than what I have now witch is nothing! I will be starting to get what I need next week, I'm going to try and get all of the hydraulic parts that I will need first, Then I will get the axles, tires and wheels and then the steel. I'm also thinking about getting Alibre design so I can design it first and make sure all the bugs are worked out first.

brendonv · « **Reply #62 on:** March 06, 2011, 10:52:02 am »

I see no problem with all levers, as long as they are properly setup. No taking your hands off anything to operate the functions on mine.

logman81 · « **Reply #63 on:** March 06, 2011, 12:52:36 pm »

There really is no problem with all levers. I'll set mine up with the levers and I'll be plenty happy with that setup. If it works good I might build a loader for my landscape trailer that way I can haul my own logs off my job sites myself. Or buy a used log trailer like a jms or something like that.

redlaker1 · « **Reply #64 on:** March 06, 2011, 01:37:49 pm »

oh I was under the impression you were going with joysticks, if its all levers then whats another couple levers. you could go as big as you want and have a few extra circuits on there for future use, independent stabilizers, etc

logman81 · « **Reply #65 on:** March 06, 2011, 02:42:11 pm »

I'll be using a valve that has two four way levers, two levers for the stabilizers and one lever for the opening and closing of the grapple and it will run off the tractor hydraulic pump witch is 11 GPM.

bill m · « **Reply #66 on:** March 06, 2011, 07:00:46 pm »

Is this trailer for off road or on road?

logman81 · « **Reply #67 on:** March 06, 2011, 07:07:08 pm »

It's going to be built for off road to tow behind my tractor.

bill m · « **Reply #68 on:** March 06, 2011, 07:13:21 pm »

Don't put axles under it, build it with bogies. They will climb over rough ground and obstacles, straight axles will not.

logman81 · « **Reply #69 on:** March 06, 2011, 08:56:55 pm »

That's exactly what I'm going to do.

Thanks for the tip any more?

Stephen Alford · « **Reply #70 on:** March 07, 2011, 06:01:18 pm »

Hardest thing about having a log loader is it takes about 2 weeks to get the smirk off your face the first time you run one. Because of clearance issues I removed the draw bar and use the 3 pt hitch to hook to a swival hitch on the trailer. This makes it very easy to hook up and if the trailer were to flip it would not take the tractor. As redlaker1 pointed out be sure the check valves are there and set right. The first time I had the loader at the front and stood to operate it. Found I liked the seat and to the back. Easier to see what I am doing and having an arm rest makes you faster. The biggest thing for productivity is the extend/boom. Most do not have a cab so a shield over the levers will save you a lot of grief. If it is sloped front and back wires and limbs will ride over and not damage the levers. Given the choice I would have the stabilizer levers away from the rest. With big gloves , frozen fingers and loose clothes you can hook one of the stabilizer levers by mistake if they are all the same height and in the middle. If you are unloading good sized logs it will give you quite a lurch. I adjusted them after that happened.

logman81 · « **Reply #71 on:** March 07, 2011, 07:25:09 pm »

Sounds good Stephen Alford I'll keep the checks valve in mind.

logman81 · « **Reply #72 on:** March 09, 2011, 07:12:45 pm »

Can any one tell me the manufacturer of the joystick valve on the Metavic log loaders? I emailed them a few days ago and have not got a response yet.

Ironwood · « **Reply #73 on:** March 09, 2011, 07:23:07 pm »

Logman,

No offense, but they may not call you back, If you're reverse engineering ANYTHING it is difficult to expect a call back on a question. Least that is my experience (guess I rarely ever asked, but just seems that would be my experience

)

Ironwood

logman81 · « **Reply #74 on:** March 09, 2011, 07:45:30 pm »

I didn't tell them I was building anything I told them that I needed a replacement one.

bill m · « **Reply #75 on:** March 09, 2011, 08:17:11 pm »

Here is a picture of the valve on my Metavic. I can't remember what brand it is. I can look tomorrow and let you know.

logman81 · « **Reply #76 on:** March 09, 2011, 08:26:32 pm »

That wood be a huge help bill m. If you could tell me the brand and possibly the model number that would be great. Seems to me that it is a good setup and easy to use. Just curious how much hydraulic flow is needed to run the loader? My tractor has 11 gpm so I think that should be enough.

Ironwood · « **Reply #77 on:** March 09, 2011, 08:28:35 pm »

Ahhh, well in that case Bill, make sure you dont just PM him, let us all know. That is a nice setup.

Ironwood

bill m · « **Reply #78 on:** March 09, 2011, 09:04:57 pm »

My tractor has about 12 gpm. I run it at about 1200 to 1300 rpm. anything faster and the loader is to hard to control.

mog5858 · « **Reply #79 on:** March 09, 2011, 09:34:25 pm »

log man81 what i mean by taking the sweat out is when you start to heat up your steel with a LP torch or tigger torch you will see it get wet and start to sweat then clear off. i would say in the 150-300 F if you can try a test pice befor you go for it. i don't know how good of a welder or what you got for a mig i would not try to do a weld like that whitout a 220V mig and make shere you got a gas mig. the no gas flux core i would not trust them little ones. just a ruff starting place i would say in the 22-26Volts and 350+ wire speed.

logman81 · « **Reply #80 on:** March 10, 2011, 06:43:15 am »

Thanks bill m, Then my tractor should have no problem powering it. mog5858 I'm using a Lincoln 216 mig, I am an excellent welder and fabricator, I have built my own firewood conveyor and atv log skidding arch.

I'm using 75% argon and 25% CO2 gas mix.

bill m · « **Reply #81 on:** March 10, 2011, 08:21:35 am »

The control valve on my Metavic is made by Walvoil from Italy. The nearest dealer to me is Airline Hydraulics in Bensalen, Pa. www.airlinehyd.com

Ironwood · « **Reply #82 on:** March 10, 2011, 08:58:43 am »

If someone inquires to the supplier of the valves, could you share the cost with us so we dont inundate them w/ inquiries.

Thanks Ironwood

logman81 · « **Reply #83 on:** March 10, 2011, 11:04:02 am »

Thanks bill m you wouldn't happen to know the part # of the valve? I checked the web site out but I need to know the model number to get the right quote. Once I get a price I will let you know all about it.

bill m · « **Reply #84 on:** March 10, 2011, 01:11:10 pm »

I could not find a part no. on mine. You would just have to call and talk to a sales person and describe what you are doing with it. You want series circuit spool sections so you can operate more than one lever at a time. Another place for the Walvoil valves is www.hydraulic-supply.com

brendonv · « **Reply #85 on:** March 10, 2011, 02:13:19 pm »

Log man, how about you fire me over some pics of your conveyor. You have my address.

I've got a small spare Honda, and a rough idea of a conveyor.

logman81 · « **Reply #86 on:** March 10, 2011, 03:52:32 pm »

Brendonv I build them and sell them as a side line to my logging and tree service business. Thanks so much bill m for your help I'll keep you all posted on the build.

logman81 · « **Reply #87 on:** March 12, 2011, 09:19:51 am »

I have contacted airlinehyd.com about the loader valve but they have not gotten back to me yet I will try again in a few days. I did however find a supplier for airline products in Northkingston which is very close to me. I may try and contact them and go through them for the info.

logman81 · « **Reply #88 on:** March 17, 2011, 06:44:41 pm »

I'm not having much luck with airlinehyd.com with a response from them. Still looking for info on the valves that they sell. I'll try going through local supply place for the info and see if that works. I'm ready to start building the log forwarding trailer so I need the info.

Ironwood · « **Reply #89 on:** March 18, 2011, 08:18:32 pm »

Thanks for keeping us in the loop.

Ironwood

logman81 · « **Reply #90 on:** March 19, 2011, 11:19:12 am »

Your welcome.

I just wish I could a response from the hydraulics place I really need the valve for mock up purpose.

brendonv · « **Reply #91 on:** March 19, 2011, 08:55:34 pm »

I would think the valve would be almost the last thing you'd need. Mine simply mounts on a T shaped mount made of 1.5" square tube.

Get to work!

logman81 · « **Reply #92 on:** March 20, 2011, 06:04:39 am »

Maybe so but I would like to have it in my hand to figure out where to mount it. I'm going down to the steel supplier this week and get a price quote for the steel. The 75 acre logging job has be taking up all my time lately so I only have weekends to work on it.

Spalted Dog · « **Reply #93 on:** February 23, 2012, 07:37:18 am »

Any progress on your trailer? I am working on a similar project. Hope to order steed today.

logman81 · « **Reply #94 on:** February 23, 2012, 11:11:39 am »

Spalted Dog I actually went a different route and bought a pettibone skidder.

I felt that I would never able to keep making a living with all the break downs I have had using the the tractor. It's just not design to be put through the stress of logging. But I do plan in the future to build a self loader for may tag along trailer for those occasional small yard jobs where their isn't enough logs for a log truck to come. I still may build a forwarding trailer for those small jobs where minimal ground disturbance is a must I'm all ways building something!

Keep us posted I love to see self built log loading trailers once you build one you will find many uses for it.

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Author Topic: building a log forwarding trailer (Read 8103 times)