trimming limbs off

[robotguy]

im searching for info on how is the best way to trim a limb , specificly i have seen several types of sheers /lopers , some cut from one side to the other others cut from both sides & meet in the center , cutting off the limb,  i am specificly seeking info on which is better, (or worse) as i will be cutting tens of thousands of these at a time  and  i want to know from the pro,s what there thoughts are  i have checked into  hydraulic & air powered sheers / lopers & both are avail  but i would like to here from you 'all   still getting the hang of this smileys face thing , (hope i hit the right key)  thanks
robotguy  

[Chet]

I can help you, but you have to be more specific in what you are doing, and what you want to achive.

[Stephen_Wiley]

Pruning tools which make a shear cut are best.  Anvil tools cause pinching and when dull will tear the bark on the bottom edge resulting in a more trauma extending beyond the proper cut.

Note:  Where you prune your branches should havea greater priority than the tool that you use.

[Chet]

Stephen, please don't take this the wrong way. But improper techniques or choice of tools can totally render useless any attempt at proper pruning methods.
Select the proper tool for the job, then use it correctly, using the appropriate pruning method.

[Stephen_Wiley]

Chet,

Not offended at all, maybe did not make my post clear enough.

I believe we would agree on the definition of  a proper cut.  However it is very difficult to 'advise' anyone of proper cuts, over the phone or internet without seeing the plants in question.

In my previous post, I wanted to bring attention only that the tools used will make a difference in final health impact to the tree based on kind of tool used and sharpness. Relatively a small point, but by no means a complete recommendation.

Pruning Tool
1.  Sharpness of tool to be used.
2.  Best to have a shearing cut opposed to a pinching or anvil  
    cut.
3.  Tool should be sanatized prior to using. If tree being pruned
    is infected then sanatation should be done after each cut  
    and especially before pruning adjacent trees.
4.  Tool should be checked for looseness.  A loose handle in
    loppers will result in a poor cut.

Robotguy

Pruning techniques beyond tool usage can be described in simple terms. But unfortunately are more complex when addressing the individual plant.

Hard to substitute numerous years of pruning applications based upon plant species, physiology, disease and pest disturubances, structural flaws to a simple one size fits all question.
     
A proper cut includes the use of the right tool, the cutting angle, and location of the cut in relation to the branch, stem, bud or twig left remaining.

As Chet also mentioned knowing your purpose for cutting will make an impact upon recommendations to maintain plant health and doability of what you desire.

[Kevin]

Here's everything I know about pruning ...

Don't flush cut, the remaining branch should be no less than a third of the cut branch and cut back to the new growth.
That's it, I do line clearance.

[robotguy]

thanks for the help , use a shear cut, check blade for loseness, and third, sanitation,
the first & third i didn't know,  and the second one i had assumed.    
now for some specifics,

Vizualize a 30 year old acre of reprod (re-planted) scheduled for thinning by the owner, who has given you a specification  
,,,say for example,,, trees are to be thinned to a 15 feet average radius  ( 15' x 15' )  and the remaining trees are to be limbed  1/3 the way up (or what is best for that specific tree as decided  at the time of trimming)  dropping the branches as you cut to the ground .
At most post-thinned lots i have seen they did not limb the standing tree's however on some private lots i have seen where the owner did de-limb.  i have learned from the posted comments good forestry practices & that  limbing in lift's (stages) over time, produces CVG lumber and thats the target.    

would bleach work for sanitizing a blade ?

[Ianab]

Hi Robot
What you are asking about seems to be like fairly normal forest management here In NZ
The normal equipment would be a set of heavy duty loppers and a small jacksaw that are carried in a hoslter worn on your belt. Pruning is done from a special aluminium forestry ladder that has spiked feet for stability and a M bracket at the top to rest against the trunk. This makes a pretty light and portable rig that you can carry around all day.
The actual pruning schedule is based on the diameter of the trees and they would normally be pruned about 3 times to eventually give a clear log of at least 5-6m while keeping the diameter of the defect wood in the centre of the log to a minimum. The main species is of course Radiata pine, but similar regimes are used other softwood species and some Australian hardwood type trees.
This is a link to a local tool supplier (not much use to most of you folks) but it will give you an idea of the tools we use.
http://www.treetools.co.nz/view_products.php?cat=1
Of course after 30 years here the radiata would have been milled, replanted and maybe ready for a 1st pruning again

Ian

[Greenman]

Robotguy,

There is some good information on these posts, but it sounds like there is so much more you need to know before you start pruning.  The following references would be very helpful.

ANSI A-300: Tree, Shrub, and Other Woody Plant Maintenance (see http://www.natlarb.com/content/laws/a-300.htm)


The Tree Climber's Companion by Jeff Jepson (http://www.pro-outdoors.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/scstore/p-100100.html?E+scstore)

Anything by Claus Mattheck, Sharon Lilly, and/or the International Society of Arboriculture (http://www.isa-arbor.com)

Learn anything and everything you can about tree physiology, especially CODIT (Compartmentalization of Decay in Trees).  If you don't read any of these books, add this to what these guys have said already: don't take too much crown out of the tree.  A typical rule of thumb is that you shouldn't remove more than a third of the crown in a year. There is a balance between the amount of roots and the amount of shoots (the root-to-shoot ratio), and if you take too many branches, then the chances of sprouting as a stress response will increase.  Practices can vary somewhat from time-to-time with species also.

Good luck.