Skiptooth chains

[albirk]

I have a stihl 460 mag with a 24" bar that i run all the time and a 36" to block up some of the stump end at times would a skiptooth chain help keep the rpm up on the 36" so i don't have to hold it out of the cut so much I need to replace my old chains so now would be a good time to do that


thanks for the feed back

[ladylake]

 Yes a skip tooth would help, also don't get the rakers too low. Check your drive spocket and make sure it's a 7 pin, if it's more than 7 put a 7 pin on it.    Steve

[ErikC]

 I use nothing but skiptooth on all my saws. Even the 20"bars. It is easier to sharpen and definitely holds up the rpm's. On a big saw running real short bars, they will cut a little faster with full comp.

[HolmenTree]

On my saws with 28" and longer I like the skip chain, but with full comp on these long bars it holds an edge longer , thats why I run full comp on the shorter bars which are in the dirt more often. My long skip chains are for falling the big diameter stems and lowering stumps.

Willard. 

[stump farmer]

I think the skiptooth would help. A 36" bar on a 460 is on the high end for that saw so an aggressive cutter tooth like the Stihl full chisel (RSF) for example might be too much for the power head to pull. A cutter tooth with a smaller, more rounded tooth might not bog the saw as much. Different manufacturers use different names for these cutters. Also some chains are advertised to have superior chip discharge which helps with longer bars. If you can run your chain loose without problems that can help reduce friction and keep the speed up as well.

[HolmenTree]

460 Stihl can handle a 36" chisel 3/8"skip chain with the nose buried, just make sure you're running a 7 T sprocket and keep the rakers high .......keep those cutters sharp.

Willard.

[stump farmer]

Wonder if the 460s I've run aren't as strong due to California emissions. They have trouble with 36" bars. Then again maybe I'm not as good at sharpening as I need to be.

[Piston]

I run a skiptooth chain on my 361 when I use a 24" bar.  It certainly helps with my little saw so I would think it would for yours. 

[albirk]

thanks for the help the old chains are stihl but the new chains will be from baileys free shipping over $200 new toys on the way

[ErikC]

 I have a California 460, and it will do fine with 36" buried in pine or fir.  I really haven't buried it in hardwood. Sharper cutters are the answer, not lower profile. I use square ground, full chisel, full skip on those longer bars at all times, and when sharp the wood melts like butter. I use the same chain on my firewood saws and shorter bars, but round file it because it's quicker and will cut a little duller.

[Cut4fun]

Good read on full comp, full skip, semi skip.    http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_sequence.htm

[stump farmer]

ErikC. Are you using a flat file to sharpen the chain? That's a technique I'm still working on. On a straight buck the 460 does alright with a 36 bar, but during falling while in the kerf I seem to have trouble getting going again if I stop it to pound a wedge or whatever. A 660 or 394 seems to get going again much easier and wihout having to pull out of the cut as much. Worked in Hyampom 10+ years ago on a fire crew, beautiful area.

[ErikC]

 No on the square chain filing, never really even tried, the loggers I started cutting with in high school all ground several for the day, like most of the PNW, so I did too. At that time I got a silvey grinder for those. But I use a file on the round chains.

[ErikC]

 My 460 does the same thing on falling cuts, I pull back and get some rpms if I stop or it bogs a little. But that's a lot of cutters to get going again if they already have ahold. I know Hyampom well, it is a neat valley. Remember what fire by any chance? I have cut on a few.

[stump farmer]

Thanks for the input. I'm going to work on sharpening and look for some older posts on tuning. Can't remember the fire names, but it was '99 in Sept-Oct.