Author Topic: Why the big saws (Read 5109 times)

CX3 · « **on:** January 10, 2011, 06:04:46 pm »

Guys I have been using a chainsaw to make a living everyday of my life for the past 10 years. I have cut some big timber. I very rarely need more than a 20 inch bar for anything we do. I carry a 25 inch bar and it stays rusty in the toolbox along with its chain. I hear of these huge saws and 60 inch bars. I understand in a few very remote parts of the world a saw like that would barely get through the bark, but what in the world are these saws being used for? I can imagine Ian is cutting some big stuff, along with you guys in Canada and around Oregon...etc. I guess the question is this, if you have a giant saw that weighs 50 pounds and it takes longer than than 10 minutes to sharpen it, lets see some pics of what you put on the ground with it.

Cut4fun · « **Reply #1 on:** January 10, 2011, 06:13:05 pm »

I sold a woods ported 084 to a guy to run a 50" bar buried ripping hardwoods. He burned up 2 stock MS660's with 42" last year and wanted something that could run a bigger bar buried.

chevytaHOE5674 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 10, 2011, 06:35:21 pm »

When i was working in the woods every saw I used was at least a 24/25" bar more often than not a 28". When your cutting lots of 20"+ trees it makes sense to have a longer bar. You don't have to fiddle with cutting from both sides, makes bucking easier, also makes delimbing easier on the back as you don't have to hunch over constantly. Also with skip tooth chain long bars don't have many more teeth to sharpen than your 20" bar with full comp chain.

Mad Professor · « **Reply #3 on:** January 10, 2011, 06:45:56 pm »

50" trees come to mind.

Ianab · « **Reply #4 on:** January 10, 2011, 07:27:22 pm »

Quote from: Mad Professor on January 10, 2011, 06:45:56 pm

50" trees come to mind.

Like this one?
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,22582.0.html

Took that down with a 28" bar though, but it's not one of the "BIG" ones.
Not sure how I would have got on bore cutting on the side of a hill with a 60" bar though $:-\$

Right tools for the job. If you spend all day cutting 18" trees, and might find an occasional 30" one, then the 20"bar is the right tool for the job, and hauling a bigger saw around is just making your arms longer.

Most guys with those big saws just being em out for those special jobs when they NEED them. Although to do a good job bucking up big ugly firewood logs into chunks. You can just rest the saw on the log and let the weight feed it though

Ian

nhlogga · « **Reply #5 on:** January 10, 2011, 08:34:51 pm »

I use 24" bars so I don't have to hunch over too much. Easier on the back.

Dale Hatfield · « **Reply #6 on:** January 10, 2011, 09:11:10 pm »

I would love to see a patch of 50 inchers in Ohio. Im in the hardwood Capital of Ohio and them days
are gone.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #7 on:** January 10, 2011, 09:28:37 pm »

I'm not so much of a big bar person as a big saw person. I run a 394 with an 8 pin sprocket and a 20" bar most of the time. With a chain that is properly prepared for the cutting at hand, it is very fast. I don't like waiting. If I'm in bigger wood I will run the 32" bar. Yeah, we all know we can cut more than double the bar length, but sometimes it's just faster to use a longer bar. As mentioned, a full skip 32" has 35 cutters, and a full comp 20" has 36.

tyb525 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 10, 2011, 11:12:42 pm »

Ripping logs and slabbing come to mind

Plus, it's easier to fell a tree IMO with a bar that stick our of the tree a bit, than having to cut from both sides with a shorter bar.

Not that I've used any real long bar, longest I have is 28". For me, it comes down to what I have. If I had only the 28", I probably wouldn't pay to get a shorter bar (which means buying more chains, too).

barbender · « **Reply #9 on:** January 11, 2011, 12:18:28 am »

I don't cut many trees over 20", but once I tried a 24" in bar it became my go to unit. I am 6'5" and find that the extra weight of the bar is offset by me not having to hunch over all day. I really notice the difference in my back if I have to throw my 20" bar on for a day. I just put a 20" bar on my Husky 346, I'm liking that too. Not something you would bury in a cut all the time, but the extra reach is nice. I run skiptooth chain, I got skiptooth to try on my 346 too. It seems to cut just fine.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 11, 2011, 06:54:18 am »

CX3,I hear what your saying I use a 20" most of the time,if I can't slice and dice with a 20 I don't mess with the tree.I have up to 28" bars but thats for those big butt road trees.A bar longer than diameter makes aiming a large tree a little easier and the point about keeping you back straight has merit.I've cut alot of pine years ago with a 16" because thats all I had and never felt undergunned.Frank C.

Ed · « **Reply #11 on:** January 11, 2011, 07:44:49 am »

There are still some big hardwoods in my area, enough for me to warrant a keeping a big saw on the shelf.
This was a White Oak I took down a couple of years ago on our property. It had taken a pretty good lightening strike and was slowly dieing, took it down before it became a real hazard.

Saw is an 084, 60" bar.

Ed

CX3 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 11, 2011, 08:59:37 am »

Thank You Ed. Thats what Im talking about that is awesome!

Ian I read the thread about cutting the leaner. Good job and I like the way you posted the pics and the diagrams. I can tell you know what the heck is going on

Cut4fun · « **Reply #13 on:** January 11, 2011, 12:22:32 pm »

Quote from: Dale Hatfield on January 10, 2011, 09:11:10 pm

I would love to see a patch of 50 inchers in Ohio. Im in the hardwood Capital of Ohio and them days
are gone.

There a oak take down right down the road from me on a farm that looks like the one in Ed's pic. At list 50"+ I would bet. Several around here still.
Plus I know of a dead elm that is 48" across ona farm that I've been helping with and removing 18"-21" limbs from.

jim king · « **Reply #14 on:** January 11, 2011, 01:14:05 pm »

I thought with the nice info posted for felling you might like to see the suicide cut method used here.

I cannot watch them.

weimedog · « **Reply #15 on:** January 11, 2011, 01:29:43 pm »

Quote from: Ed on January 11, 2011, 07:44:49 am

There are still some big hardwoods in my area, enough for me to warrant a keeping a big saw on the shelf.
This was a White Oak I took down a couple of years ago on our property. It had taken a pretty good lightening strike and was slowly dieing, took it down before it became a real hazard.

Saw is an 084, 60" bar.

Ed

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

That's an Awesome picture! I have had to drop a few dieing over mature sugar Maples of the 3-4ft diameter base magnitude. (Have three or four more)....but they were so hollow (*DanG..the confession about to come) I was able to easily drop then with a 28in bar..probably could have with a 20! As the "Wall thickness" in the good spots was only about 15-20inches! Was like ripping into a tin can! Scares me to death thinking back on those two tree's! Had a local chiropractor there to watch in case some of the enormous dead limbs crushed my head ..he's a neighbor. Didn't know what was inside at the time several years ago when I started those jobs do now and going to let nature drop the rest..(I won't go take pics of those as they have been down a while ..might have one around somewhere anyway)

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #16 on:** January 11, 2011, 01:32:53 pm »

Jim, the official Latino Book of Logging, MUST have the same instructions. They cut that exact same way here. They think I'm crazy to do it the "Traditional" Gringo way. They waste a LOT of wood, leaving those support roots standing.

barbender · « **Reply #17 on:** January 11, 2011, 01:56:04 pm »

Ed looks like chainsaw darth vader on top of that white oak

Nice pic!

barbender · « **Reply #18 on:** January 11, 2011, 01:58:17 pm »

I'also noticed I tend to get in trouble over notching and what when using a shorter bar to cut from both sides. Operator error for sure, but it doesn't happen when I use a bar that cuts all the way across.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #19 on:** January 11, 2011, 07:54:41 pm »

Quote from: Dale Hatfield on January 10, 2011, 09:11:10 pm

I would love to see a patch of 50 inchers in Ohio. Im in the hardwood Capital of Ohio and them days
are gone.

You must be over towards Holmes county perhaps

I agree ,on this side of the state very seldom do you see a big oak much over 36" .Rarely though a big one still pops over 4 feet and a hundred plus high .

That said generally most trees state wide could be easily handled with a 36" bar .

I have one long bar and that a 48" large McCulloch mount hard nose which I think is the largest in this area that I know of .That NOS bar was most likely made in the 50's and as a matter of fact was a flea bay purchase from Ohio .25 plus shipping .In the 7-8 years I've owned it the thing has been used 4 times .It should last for the next 100 years at that rate .

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #20 on:** January 11, 2011, 08:18:00 pm »

I use a 41" bar mostly for trimming flare off of large logs as I am rolling them onto the mill. Wherever I see flare I get it while the log is on the ground or on the loading arms. 41" isn't always long enough. I like to reach in from the end rather than standing on the side of the log, in a comfortable position, and just let the bar fall right down through the wood. In this application it would take a lot more time to try to get around at the back side to make cuts using a shorter bar. I use a 090AV because I have two of them from a chainsaw mill, and they do the job well. Probably going to replace these soon with an 880 having whatever the next size larger bar is.

sawguy21 · « **Reply #21 on:** January 11, 2011, 08:28:04 pm »

Local loggers used the super long bars on big saws for many years but not much call now as they changed felling technique. The big tools are too hard to handle on steep slopes with heavy underbrush. We do get calls for 60" bars from the mills for lift saws, these are used to trim lifts to length for trucks and rail cars

CX3 · « **Reply #22 on:** January 11, 2011, 09:26:55 pm »

Thanks for all the replies. I definitely understand the use of huge bars for milling and cutting the ears off the big logs. And for splitting big logs at the mill. I guess I am just ignorant to the different ways of doing things in the world. Thanks for the pics too.

Ed i cant get on here without looking at your picture.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #23 on:** January 12, 2011, 04:58:54 am »

A 60" odd inch bar might come in handy here.

bill m · « **Reply #24 on:** January 12, 2011, 07:26:28 pm »

I have a 36" bar that I used when I was running my tree service. Now, for logging, I don't use anything bigger than a 20" bar.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #25 on:** January 12, 2011, 07:30:11 pm »

20-26" inch bar would be ample for most cutting around here, it's mostly getting to be smaller second growth. Folks hate to see a tree get any size.

ErikC · « **Reply #26 on:** January 12, 2011, 07:58:11 pm »

That's something we all can agree on. Whatever size bar you are running now, it probably is not what you needed a few years back. For Falling I like a 28", and find a lot of the trees I cut are just a bit over that size, works fast and easy for me. I have a couple of 36" bars, and find use for them only now and then. There are still plenty of big ones, but cutting a whole patch of 'em happens just once in awhile.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #27 on:** January 12, 2011, 08:57:32 pm »

20's and 24's are what most tree service folks run around here on 70 to 80 cc saws .They usually use 36"s on their 066 Stihls .Few use Huskey so I can't comment about them . I myself have mostly 20 inch that are the most often used .

Banjo picker · « **Reply #28 on:** January 12, 2011, 09:15:32 pm »

I had an order for some red oak over the holidays...I took down a big tree and had to use the 084 to split the log because neither the tractor or the backhoe would pick up and move a ten foot stick...split it with a 36" bar and then had to finish prying it apart with the forks on the tractor....I wanted to take pics but never had the time...Tim

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #29 on:** January 12, 2011, 09:36:10 pm »

Splitting a sycamore for quarter sawing. I think it was about 44" small end. Used the 394 with the 32".

stump farmer · « **Reply #30 on:** January 14, 2011, 05:13:55 pm »

Large saws and long bars come in handy where working from both sides of a tree during falling is difficult or not safe like on a hillside or when a tight spot with no escape route exists on one side. Same thing when bucking a tree that has a lot of spring to it. Any logs that have been pushed hard by a dozer into a jumbled mess usually have some spring to them and I'd like to be on the safe side with my body as far away as possible from the cut. Worked with a few guys who liked 32" bars for cutting brush because they could simply bend the bar enough to get a thrown chain back on without having to loosen the bar nuts and mess with re-adjusting chain tension...

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #31 on:** January 14, 2011, 05:38:58 pm »

Quote from: stump farmer on January 14, 2011, 05:13:55 pm

Worked with a few guys who liked 32" bars for cutting brush because they could simply bend the bar enough to get a thrown chain back on without having to loosen the bar nuts and mess with re-adjusting chain tension...

Depending on the job, maybe they should invest in a brush/clearing saw.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #32 on:** January 14, 2011, 07:26:16 pm »

You have to be the only person on any forum I know of to run those super duper souped up weed wackers .

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #33 on:** January 14, 2011, 07:44:10 pm »

I tried the chainsaw method, 1 week to cut an acre. Brush saw, one day per acre. Enough said.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #34 on:** January 14, 2011, 08:12:09 pm »

Perhaps but with a good Woods mower with a stump jumper and 40 HP tractor 1 acre in about an hour .--- remember no substitute for horse power ----

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #35 on:** January 14, 2011, 08:22:31 pm »

Yes, but you better have a lot of ground lined up to pay for said equipment. I've never in my life seen a tractor in the woods doing any such thing. I've seen them on field where woods was encroaching, but never brushing the woods down. And I live in farm country, we got what you got.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #36 on:** January 14, 2011, 08:33:06 pm »

Quote from: SwampDonkey on January 14, 2011, 08:22:31 pm

Yes, but you better have a lot of ground lined up to pay for said equipment. I've never in my life seen a tractor in the woods doing any such thing. I've seen them on field where woods was encroaching, but never brushing the woods down. And I live in farm country, we got what you got.

Well I wouldn't call Ohio a thriving metro area like NYC ..Good grief I'm right smack dab in the eastern half of the corn belt .However ,in the woods no except in an open area perhaps reclaimed as pasture land .Open fields overgrown,standard operating proceedure .That or about a hundred head of hungry goats .

CX3 · « **Reply #37 on:** January 14, 2011, 10:45:15 pm »

Stump Farmer, that brings another question up. I used to watch axe men. And always wondered why on earth are those guys cutting that timber with a bar that sticks two feet out the other side of the wood? Is it because, like you said, staying away from the logs when bucking them? I am sorry but the western type logging methods just really enthuse me. I would really like to fall timber out there, and would also like to see a cutter from out west come here and work with me a little bit. I bet there would be lots to learn from both sides of the cover.

DonT · « **Reply #38 on:** January 14, 2011, 11:23:23 pm »

I have "a super duper weed whacker" to they work quite well for there intended purpose.

John Mc · « **Reply #39 on:** January 15, 2011, 09:47:08 am »

I have a Jonsered 2036 brush saw... Maybe not a "Super duper" weedwhacker, just a "super weed whacker" -- but I'm not doing this commercially. I also have a 33 HP Compact Tractor with a 5 ft Woods Brush Mower.

The tractor with brush mower is certainly faster, if you are in an area where you can fit the tractor (like an overgrown field or an established trail that needs maintenance). However, it's much harder to be selective with the tractor/mower. When I'm battle buckthorn, and want to save some of the desirable species mixed in with it (White & Red Oak and Maple saplings. for example) the brush saw makes a great tool. I tried it with my 50cc chainsaw for a while - that's time consuming, backbreaking work.

John Mc

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #40 on:** January 15, 2011, 10:14:02 am »

Hopeful to find some more about big saws here.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #41 on:** January 15, 2011, 10:22:47 am »

The thread has been bush whacked.

weimedog · « **Reply #42 on:** January 15, 2011, 12:02:11 pm »

Quote from: SwampDonkey on January 14, 2011, 08:22:31 pm

Yes, but you better have a lot of ground lined up to pay for said equipment. I've never in my life seen a tractor in the woods doing any such thing. I've seen them on field where woods was encroaching, but never brushing the woods down. And I live in farm country, we got what you got.

The two tractors I run at work during the summer would make short work of that brush..both have Alamo Brand mowers, One with a hammer mower on the end of the boom and the other a bush hog style with a corner "door" you can open to expose more of the "bush axe" blade..the hammer mower handles tree's 4 inches and down easily and real quick! I've ground 6inch trees starting from 20ft up and then just letting the hammer mower grind the trunk to chips until i get to the bottom.

Also my 1066 with a heavy 7 ft bush hog handle 2inch and down fairly well. I mow the back sides of our fence lines and mowed 7miles of what is now horse and motorcycle trail when I got here 10 years ago with it..right thru the woods and scrub brush fields. And I recovered a 5 acre section with small tree's, just knocked then over and let the bush hog grind at them...worked a whole lot faster than a saw! 115hp & 12,500lbs has its advantages!

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #43 on:** January 15, 2011, 12:20:48 pm »

Not so handy if you have save trees.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #44 on:** January 15, 2011, 01:36:42 pm »

Again we are talking reclaiming fields and road side on firm ground. Not running down through the woods terrain. We have track hoes with special heads for that kind of clearing like on power lines and cutting road ROW. Your tractor set up couldn't take it for very long. The ground in your woods would have to be real easy compared to woods up here. A few nice granite stones to hang you up and bust your hog and some wet ground to sink you to the hubs and it will mean game over. And yes it'll work a whole lot faster than a saw. But we use a saw to space crop trees, not clear fields. And we started out talking about chain saw brushing, so we aren't talking about clearing much. Not clearing much because 1) a chainsaw is about as slow to clear brush as a bush axe, and 2) your back will be so sore from bending all day to the ground that it will get old real quick. If spacing were so much cheaper and productive using a tractor than clearing/brush saws than that's what they be using. They have tried using mechanical means, but they did too much damage and the spacing was way too wide and the cutting was non selective. Then they got the idea to cut trails in the thick areas with a machine. That didn't work either, they had to go around the thick spots and run down through the light spots. Any place they did hit with the machine made a trail of death with spears pointing up like some Vietnamese pit trap. So they stopped doing that because no one would walk those dangerous trails to get at the in between that needed spaced. Twelve men cut 50 acres a week.

weimedog · « **Reply #45 on:** January 15, 2011, 02:22:02 pm »

Actually have time in an excavator with hammer / flail mower in the past. Know them well! I have run road side mowers as well in the summer for a few years and got real familiar with those as well. U have some beautiful pics in your gallery, now I'm inspired

..think maybe I'll upload a few of the woods and trails..

Posted this a few times...but a good reference..the western 240 from the air, the shot doesn't do justice to the 800-900ft elevation changes that's typical of the hills:

Typical motorcycle / quad trail:

Road in the late fall to the western half:

Trail from original "mowing" op, now used to skid as well as being a trail:

And I agree, I never would have been able to clear and cut the amount of trail I did that first two years setting up this farm with a saw by itself & by myself like I did...and also reclaimed around 70 acres of fields. Ultimately cut and finished a total of 14 miles of trail (7miles "tractor" cut thru the woods & the rest with saw and Stihl hedge trimmer attachment & hand clippers with the kids) And that was before mowing the fields boundaries back and putting up 24,000 ft of 4 wire Hi tensile! We've done a fair amount of clearing of brush here trying to re start a 260plus acre farm.

..I would still be at it if it was strictly hand held attachments! Have to get creative with the tools you have at times, part of the mentality of a former excavation contractor/ business owner. Lots of the "higher ups" where I work now have no idea how to innovate, and why should they? They have learned how to spend other folks dollars (tax dollars) to buy what ever they see fit for a task, regardless of cost. And many of the so called operators just want to drag a device and have it do all the work so having them "brake peddle Steer" around the big trees on my rocky hill sides, jacking a bush hog around would happen or wouldn't end pretty & therefor isn't a practical solution! AND I agree that dragging a long saw around all day is tough on an old back like mine! SO there has to be specific reasons to justify a long saw.(Although CAD is enough for me now! )

But back to the thread focus, for milling I used a 36inch bar for a long time because most of the wood I was milling was 26-30inch across. Just needed the length (My avatar)

Also use a 28inch like this for blocking a lot of the hard over 24inch stuff, and we have a lot. Next couple of years will be spent clearing out Ash and Beech to promote Maple & Cherry. Have around 50 more acres to thin...hence the saw hobby!

Also evaluating a Sugihara 28in reduced weight bar to try and do said blocking and have less of a back ache. I really like what I am seeing with them! (I've posted all that before therefore will spare the space...

smalldog · « **Reply #46 on:** January 15, 2011, 03:41:31 pm »

I use a 20" bar on my ms460 for most of my bigger cutting until I have to put on the 25" bar. I sold my John Deere 80EV with a 36" bar to my dad. The BIG oaks I cut are about 4 to 5' dia., normal is about 3' dia.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #47 on:** January 15, 2011, 04:00:41 pm »

It's funny how things look flat from the air.

Brad_S took this from a windmill up on Mars Hill looking down toward the end of our road. That road under the nose cone is on the mountain. The next road to the left is below the mountain on the E. Blaine Road in Maine. That irregular field in the middle of the photo is 160 acres, one of dad's fields he sold when retiring. It hits onto Maine toward the road I just mentioned. The next field to it's south, which is up on the photo, is 100 acres. The rest of that big chunk off to the left of dad's field is probably close to 2000 acres of field including that rectangle below dad's field that comes in there almost to the border. The woods with dad's field was another 270 acres. That's 1 farm, he sold 3 more with another 425 acres, mostly cultivated land.

I can say one thing, we never took tractors into the woods. That's for skidders and horses. And we never had any permanent woods roads, just farm field roads. There was lots to cut near the fields, let alone what's way back yonder.

As to your coworkers buying whatever they want, I wonder how long before the easy spenders get cut off in their purchases on the government dole? Money sure ain't free and easy around here.

clww · « **Reply #48 on:** January 15, 2011, 09:55:03 pm »

I've got two trees I've done in the past 3 years that I'll put up (if I can figure out how to add the photos). These were both residential trees in homeowner's back yards. The first was a 72" (widest spread) pecan that we took down with the 084 w/ 36" bar. The second one, that I'll never finish, is an 86" oak that blew over during a 2009 Nor'easter we had. I'm ripping the main trunk now with the 090 w/ 54" bar. I still have 8" of wood left with the saw buried! THAT'S A TREE!

CX3 · « **Reply #49 on:** January 15, 2011, 10:22:01 pm »

Yes thats a treeeeeee. Get a pic I gotta see it. Im from the show me state

stump farmer · « **Reply #50 on:** January 15, 2011, 11:52:58 pm »

From CX3 'And always wondered why on earth are those guys cutting that timber with a bar that sticks two feet out the other side of the wood? Is it because, like you said, staying away from the logs when bucking them?'

That might be the reason. Usually see those large bars on the landing and not so much being hiked around while falling.

weimedog · « **Reply #51 on:** January 16, 2011, 01:58:02 am »

Quote from: SwampDonkey on January 15, 2011, 04:00:41 pm

It's funny how things look flat from the air.

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Brad_S took this from a windmill up on Mars Hill looking down toward the end of our road. That road under the nose cone is on the mountain. The next road to the left is below the mountain on the E. Blaine Road in Maine. That irregular field in the middle of the photo is 160 acres, one of dad's fields he sold when retiring. It hits onto Maine toward the road I just mentioned. The next field to it's south, which is up on the photo, is 100 acres. The rest of that big chunk off to the left of dad's field is probably close to 2000 acres of field including that rectangle below dad's field that comes in there almost to the border. The woods with dad's field was another 270 acres. That's 1 farm, he sold 3 more with another 425 acres, mostly cultivated land.

I can say one thing, we never took tractors into the woods. That's for skidders and horses. And we never had any permanent woods roads, just farm field roads. There was lots to cut near the fields, let alone what's way back yonder.

As to your coworkers buying whatever they want, I wonder how long before the easy spenders get cut off in their purchases on the government dole? Money sure ain't free and easy around here.

Awesome Picture and View!

Not my co-workers, most of them are farmers or ex-farmers and understand work, risk, and taxes.....its the managers, most of them never had to invest their own assets in a real "make or break" ( With significant consequences) risk...one in particular (the decision maker) was a son of a large successful farm owner. With daddy's backing he thinks a risk is getting insulted.

BTW I bought that land I live on with proceeds from my old excavation business I build from nothing but a temper tantrum to get out of the computer business! Never inherited a thing but a last name and genetics. The farm purchase's original intent was to allow my six kids grow and have room to do the things they wanted hence trails and places to ride horses and motorcycles (We even held races on it one year)... we were successful in that endeavor as the kids have all done well, after the kids began to move away that's when I decided to bend the farm to more productive ends. And the farm already pays for it self

And as far as permanent roads...

the terrain is a bit rough here...sort of have to...

Since road building was what I did for a living...AND the roads/trails make it easier to maintain the fields, thin the woods lots, and generally get around...we have a few. Also makes it easier for the log trucks to get to my wood..don't have to skid as far.

Wonderful looking area your Dad farmed, bet there are some great memories along with those beautiful pictures! And why is it aerial views always look flat?

But back to big saws..these are a pair, one a Solo 603 with a 28inch bar, the other a 920 Jonsered with a Sugihara 24inch bar..I posted this before in another thread..but more relevant now. that 920 with the 24inch Sugihara feels lighter than my other 920 with a Windsor 20 inch bar. Those reduced weight bars do make a difference.

weimedog · « **Reply #52 on:** January 16, 2011, 02:41:36 am »

Quote from: clww on January 15, 2011, 09:55:03 pm

I've got two trees I've done in the past 3 years that I'll put up (if I can figure out how to add the photos). These were both residential trees in homeowner's back yards. The first was a 72" (widest spread) pecan that we took down with the 084 w/ 36" bar. The second one, that I'll never finish, is an 86" oak that blew over during a 2009 Nor'easter we had. I'm ripping the main trunk now with the 090 w/ 54" bar. I still have 8" of wood left with the saw buried! THAT'S A TREE!

PM if you want I can post them if you can email that pic 2 me or if you have it posted at another site.

weimedog · « **Reply #53 on:** January 17, 2011, 01:02:50 pm »

Some BIG tree by clww:

clww · « **Reply #54 on:** January 17, 2011, 03:51:14 pm »

Thanks for the assist, weimedog!

The first and third photos are the big Pecan while the middle photo is the giant Oak.

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #55 on:** January 17, 2011, 05:02:20 pm »

Most inspiring pictures, did these logs get milled?

Al_Smith · « **Reply #56 on:** January 17, 2011, 06:55:15 pm »

I guess this is a big saw as big saws go .Homelite 2100 S with a hardnose 48" .The oak was pretty fair sized too .

clww · « **Reply #57 on:** January 17, 2011, 07:43:36 pm »

TT-the pecan did not get milled

The Oak is being rough-cut, ripped into planks which are going to sit around for a few years before I make something from them.

The main trunk is 12 feet long and the planks I get should be at least 42 inches wide.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #58 on:** January 17, 2011, 08:01:45 pm »

Need some extra spinach to get enough steam to man handle them babies. Just kidding, as I'm sure you have some horse power at your disposal.

Some of you guys like knocking big trees down near houses.

CX3 · « **Reply #59 on:** January 17, 2011, 08:07:50 pm »

See now thats what Im talking about. CLWW actually needs a big saw. I love the pics that is a huge oak. I would really like to see a 42 inch board also. I saw a 36 inch board nailed to the side of an old barn once. That is really neat. Thanks.

Ianab · « **Reply #60 on:** January 17, 2011, 08:27:10 pm »

Quote

See now thats what Im talking about. CLWW actually needs a big saw. I love the pics that is a huge oak. I would really like to see a 42 inch board also. I saw a 36 inch board nailed to the side of an old barn once. That is really neat. Thanks.

We cut this one a few years back...

Ian

Al_Smith · « **Reply #61 on:** January 18, 2011, 06:56:29 am »

Quote from: SwampDonkey on January 17, 2011, 08:01:45 pm

Some of you guys like knocking big trees down near houses.

Like has nothing to do with it . On a hazard tree sometimes you can't leave it up to mother nature because dear old mom might put it down right on top of the house or the neighbors ,not good .

clww · « **Reply #62 on:** January 18, 2011, 07:32:15 am »

That pecan was a solid tree. The neighbors of the customer had removed all the limbs on their side of the fence, so all the weight was on one side, leaning toward a house. That was the heaviest wood I've ever dealt with. Half again heavier than oak.
The oak was toppled by Mother Nature and her wind gusts. During that particular Nor'easter, November 2009, we had wind speeds topping 80 mph-hurricane force.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #63 on:** January 18, 2011, 07:39:22 am »

I wasn't poking at ya's, just noticing the view.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #64 on:** January 18, 2011, 09:06:19 am »

Quote from: clww on January 18, 2011, 07:32:15 am

That pecan was a solid tree. That was the heaviest wood I've ever dealt with. Half again heavier than oak.

They tell me that pecan is the most dense of the hickory type trees .We have none this far north but we do have several varieties of hickory which I assure you are heavier than our most dense of oaks . I've heard pecan makes excellant firewood but it makes beautiful furniture as well .The later being the more noble of usage .

Fact being in my log pile I have a dandy of a straight shagbark yet to be milled and my intention is indeed for the more noble usage . If not myself maybe someone 50 years from now as it's highly doubfull that I tarry quit that long .It's also doubtfull any 100 footers will still exist that far in the future .

Al_Smith · « **Reply #65 on:** January 18, 2011, 09:25:13 am »

Quote from: clww on January 17, 2011, 07:43:36 pm

The main trunk is 12 feet long and the planks I get should be at least 42 inches wide.

Now I'm not telling you what to do but often those big old wide planks can warp like a sled runner .Depending on how you sticker it and which portion of the log it comes from ,edge or more on the quarter most likely will determine how it turns out .What ever you do ballast the dickens out of it when you sticker it . If nothing else pile railroad ties on it to get some weight .

Mother nature and time grew that thing ,now it's up to the lumberman how it turns out .Hopefully very nicely .

weimedog · « **Reply #66 on:** January 18, 2011, 09:35:01 am »

Quote from: clww on January 18, 2011, 07:32:15 am

That pecan was a solid tree. The neighbors of the customer had removed all the limbs on their side of the fence, so all the weight was on one side, leaning toward a house. That was the heaviest wood I've ever dealt with. Half again heavier than oak.
The oak was toppled by Mother Nature and her wind gusts. During that particular Nor'easter, November 2009, we had wind speeds topping 80 mph-hurricane force.

Wow..is all I can say! Can't imagine what that sounded like (felt like?) when they hit the ground!

Al_Smith · « **Reply #67 on:** January 18, 2011, 09:48:43 am »

Probabley not as dramatic as if it had hit the house .

clww · « **Reply #68 on:** January 18, 2011, 10:02:54 am »

On that pecan, the final piece was about 25 feet long when it came over. Fell where I planned it and threw out a lot of grass and dirt when the top part impacted (first). When the oak went over, that was the entire tree. I was told that it got part of a garage roof, one car (total loss), the power pole at the street and another tree in the traffic circle. They never lost power, with the lines laying on the ground, until the power company showed up and cut power for safety. I didn't start working on the tree until after the usual firewood pickers had gotten all they could. 5 other tree service companys would not touch it-too big. I saw it on Craigs List..."Free Wood-You Cut", called the owner, and drove over to his house. He'd told me it was a big tree, but that can mean different sizes depending on who I talk to. Some folks think a big tree is 16" in diameter, although I don't. That one I most definetly consider a BIG tree! Maybe some day I'll get done with it. It's kind of turned into my 'Moby Dick'.

ChrisF · « **Reply #69 on:** January 18, 2011, 10:42:08 am »

That be some NICE wood, Clww.

And man, the Stihl 084 is one of the best looking saws ever made.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #70 on:** January 18, 2011, 10:47:24 am »

A lot of times those 250 year old plus oaks could have root damage ,especially in town trees . 50 years or so of having their roots compressed by being under a driveway or lopped off because of a building foundation can take a toll on them .You can't see any damage then out of the blue up pops a big wind and blows it over with a big ten ton root ball on the end or a big hollow void and flatens everything in its' fall path like a pancake .

A big old fatty like that might have to be ripped to even get the log out .

clww · « **Reply #71 on:** January 18, 2011, 06:48:49 pm »

I am ripping the boards there on-site, 3-5 inches thick by 12 feet long. Hopefully get one cut, drag it onto my trailer and bring it to the house.

CX3 · « **Reply #72 on:** January 18, 2011, 07:26:36 pm »

What do you guys think a 8 foot chunk of that big oak weighs?

CLWW why do you have to cut the boards so thick?

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #73 on:** January 18, 2011, 07:43:51 pm »

5000 pounds?

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #74 on:** January 18, 2011, 08:02:33 pm »

Water wheel repair for a sawmill.

As good a guess as any. Actually, they had to do just that near here on an old saw mill. No white oak up here except some rare bur, nothing big enough. Had to truck the stuff 1000 miles from PA.

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