Bandmilling in extreme cold

[BandsawWarrior]

We've used our bandmill in -20 but it's not fun and "problems" start to happen.  I really don't like to saw when it's below -10 because it's hard on things.  But 0 to -12C is no problem we do it every winter!

[Brucer]

I don't know what the "shoe" on the contact strip is like on an LT-70. I used to have trouble with mine on the LT-40. Emery on the bottom rail helped. Very fine emery on the contact strip helped. But I finally figured out that there wasn't enough pressure on the shoe. On the LT-40 you just have to slide the mounting bracket in toward the rail a little (do it with the battery disconnected!!). That made a huge difference. Not only does the extra pressure improve the contact, the extra friction keeps the shoe and the strip clean.

One other thing I found -- sawing in the cold, wet sawdust collects on the outside of the shoe bracket where it can freeze. Moving the sawhead to the front of the carriage pushes the shoe out, but it won't press back to follow the contact strip. I now make it a point to clean out the area around the bracket whenever the weather is close to freezing.

[pa_of_6]

Brucer
The contact "shoe" is exactly the same for the LT70 as the LT40.
Even the copper strip is the same.

WM keeps their cost of production down that way.

And yes, there is an adjustment slot on the "shoe".

It is also surprising the amount of wear that does happen to that "shoe".

Experience has taught me (I also had a LT40) that when you order the new "shoe",
also order new springs, two are used (and a couple of extra ones) and the allen head screws that attach it. The bottoms of the screws wear with the brass "shoe".  If those springs break, it also will not make good contact with the copper strip.



But, if you have the cable track with the remote mill....them welding cables do the trick.


IMO, the only wood that needs to be cut when it gets cold is firewood!

[Brucer]

... Experience has taught me (I also had a LT40) that when you order the new "shoe",
also order new springs, two are used (and a couple of extra ones) and the allen head screws that attach it. The bottoms of the screws wear with the brass "shoe".  If those springs break, it also will not make good contact with the copper strip.

That's something I learned at someone else's expense. I ran someone else's hydraulic mill for a season and whenever the weather got a little damp, the hydraulics wouldn't work. They owner had a fix for it, though. He'd grab the wire leading to the shoe and push it in against the strip with his left hand, and operated the controls with his right hand.

One day when we were down waiting for a load, I took the shoe apart and realized that A) the springs where half the length they should have been and B), they were on the wrong side of the plastic guide. When I pointed this out, the owner said his previous operator had "repaired" the thing.

Eventually he broke down and bought some new springs and I got it working. Also had to emery the contact strip because it had so many pits in it from bad contact points. However, the following year he burnt out the cable to the shoe because everyone had been bending it so much. After he fixed that, the hydraulic motor failed because there'd been too much voltage drop across that wire. .

[pa_of_6]

Like the Midas guy said

You can pay me now, or you can pay me later!


Cheaping out bites you in the end.

"Eventually he broke down and bought some new springs and I got it working"

And really, the cost for overhauling the contact is so minimal.
I bet he paid you a good wage!
Fresh air and all the water you could drink??

[AvT]

AvT

My past experience with WM, this is what I would do with you mill.

7- Go to Cooksaw website and read his info,and buy his sharpening video..and order youself a band roller....learn how to use it, and use it!

ly agree with everyone else....Keep it out of the salt!!!

Thanks pa, I almost missed this informative reply of yours.  see your #7 suggestion?  I found the information about how important flattening blades is but I can't find the tool to do it there

[pa_of_6]

Go to the cooksaw website.

They sell them puppies for about 800$
(and seeing how our canadian loonie is strong now, it will be less CAN$)

For cutting oversized logs, the roller made a huge difference.

I often wanted to call my sawmill operation
"Seaside Sawing"
"Every now and then there is a little wave!"

But the cook roller took that all away.

If there is wave in the board it can be explained by physics....
And the physics can be adjusted to allow for straight cuts, everytime.

All them points I gave you really will help.
Been there, Done it, Bought the t-shirt, wore it out and bought another!

[Magicman]

AvT,  My suggestion is to always follow your sawmill manufacturer's recommendations concerning bands, etc.  They designed and manufactured it and will stand behind their product.

[paul case]

i have noticed that in the last 2 cookssaw magazines that i get in the mail, the band roller wasnt offered. pc

[pa_of_6]

Really....wow, I may have to give Cook a call to see if they are still making them.

It would be easy enough to copy what they have done...

[Coon]

I just received an email reply from Cook's Saw Mfg. and they still do offer the band roller.  The price of it is $795.

Brad.