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Author Topic: Sharpening Chains.. by > File, Rotary Files and Grinding Machines.. Trying All 3  (Read 1585 times)

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Offline thecfarm

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  • If I don't do it,it don't get done
Took me a while to realize that I take more off the chain when the motor is on the left side.I take one less swipe on that side and it cuts fine now.It's good to know how to sharpen by hand.I don't really want to change how I sharpen now.I'd have to learn all over again.
You can buy a chainsaw vise that you just pound into a stump.Shaped like a "U" with two places on the bottom to pound it into the stump. Cost about $10 about 15 years ago.  Easy to move it from one stump to another.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor OWB

Offline Al_Smith

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What to do with a badly damaged chain,the big question .It will cost you about a buck or so the time you buy the cutter and tie strap to replace one .Then you have to knock the thing apart and spin up a new one .Often times Baileys has loops on sale for like 12 bucks for a 72 driver loop of 3/8's chisel .Shucks if you bought the components to spin a 20" loop individually you'd have 100 bucks in it .

Those rocked chains are what I use for race chain stock .Usually the chain would be worn back to where it's thinner and all you have to do is cut it down to a 60 driver or whatever .Then the fun begins,file the stupid thing until your fingers get so stiff you can't bend them any more .

 


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