# 1 saw bench. build

[weisyboy]

got my blades today.

so considering its bucketing down i thaught id put the bench together.

here is a rough sketch of what im doing.

36" blade run off the tractor pto.

feed will either be hydrolic of friction.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday Carl

Looks like your got the makings of an Aussie Belsaw Mate  I have a nice 36" 20 tooth insert that works great with pto hp it just chews up the logs I could have sold you too Mate  I take it your planing on sawing small n short salvage  logs for sleepers ,pallet and case timber and the like Mate  I recon you wont need to make your sizing to heavy to cope with that and a dual V belt friction feed should work fine at a fraction of the price of hyd (does your tractor have hyd couplings at the rear for remotes ?) as that would be an easy rig up too Mate 

I sent you a reply to your message too with regards to sizing and will email the drawings for you tonight Mate 

Regards Chris

[weisyboy]

no trouble mate.

for logs up to about 3.5m long and about 12-14" diameter. they are a bit small to do on the lucass.

and iv got a stack of small pine logs now so ill do all of them and might buil a second house up here. there is no other use for all the crap.

tractor has rear hydrolics, but might just go with friction, i can find anyware that sells shafts that i can put pulleys and pilow  blocks on . but ill keep looking.

wev had 5" of rain overnight so im not going anyware today. creeks will be way over.

[Carpenter]

You could get a belsaw arbor shaft.  That would be the right size for the saw you are building.  Or, you may have to get a bar slightly over sized and have it turned down, that would make it perfect because they don't come perfect if you just get a bar.  Of course then it would have to be turned down for the collar and threaded.  It would be so much easier to just get an old belsaw for parts, if you can find one in Australia.  What are you going to do for headblocks?  Or do bench saws even have headblocks?  What exactly is a bench saw anyway?  I've got another question, is that a right or a left handed saw?  That may seem like a dumb question, but at first glance it looks like a right handed belsaw, where the husk is actually part of the frame and the orange table with the rollers is just an outfeed table with the rollers on the wrong side, or is that actually a husk which makes it a left handed saw.  It's kind of hard to tell from the picture.  It looks like a fun project for a rainy day .  Good luck and keep us informed, I would like to know how its coming along.
     Oh, I just thought, if it is a left handed mill, the belsaw shaft won't work.  The threads would be backwards.

[weisyboy]

a sawmill is a place that saws timber, saw benches are what they use to saw timber.

this would be a number 1 bench used for breaking down.
a number 2 has rollers and a fence used for resawing cants.
a number 3 is smaller again just like a bit table saw.

i dug out an old saw arbor from down the back.

will work a treat, could only find 1" idler shafts but will go to the wreckers and get an axle from a land cruiser or patrol they are 35mm. wil then get a 1 3/8 " 6 spline machined onto one end to attach to tractor.

i need a 300mm pulley on the idler and 100mm on the saw spindle.

i think i have the drive worked out, just got iron out the details. but it might just still be easyer to go hydrolic.

[bandmiller2]

Weisy, your bench saws are a different concept than we're used to over here.I've seen old ones that were used to resaw products like lobster pot or plaster laths not for primary log breakdown.Do you dog the log down,or just manually  hold it on the carriage.??Frank C.

[weisyboy]

this is a verry simple design used for squaring and cutting cants that can be sawn into board on a #2 bench.

the log are sat on the carriage and doged to stop them from rolling, the dogs are more or less like a cant hook hook that is hinged off the bolsters.

[weisyboy]

made a start today.

was able to collect up most of the bits i needed from round the place.

i have

1 1/2 " shaft spindle with a antclockwise thread. (perfect as tractors pto runs anti clockwise)

1 3/8" toyota hilux rear axle shaft. for power shaft, have to get 6 tooth spline cut on one end, the wheel end will have a drum, actually a split rim, on it and be the friction drum for the carriage movement.

1" drive shaft for feed spindle friction end, have 250mm wheel one end and 2 1/2" pulley the other.

3/4" shaft for feed, 6" pulley on the one end and i need to put a drum for the carriage pull cable on the other.

i still need,

1 x 10" 3 spb pulley (1 3/8" taperlock center)
1 x 4" 3 spb pulley (1 1/2" taperlock center)
1 x 76 " x 2" flat belt
3 x 82" b section V belts
1 x 40" A section V belts

1 x 1 3/8" pillow block bearing
3 x 3/4" pillow block bearing
1 x hilux rear axle bearing.
8 x 3/8" bore sealed bearings

70' 1/4" wire rope.
2 x pulley blocks

i still have to make

drum for wire to wind onto.
carriage
4 x wheels to run on train track
10 x idler rollers

and i have to get a 6 spline cut on the hilux axle.

not to bad really.

clear as mud what im doing hay?

ill do a drawing to explain.

[weisyboy]

so this hopefully will make it clearer ish.

the yellow shaft is where the tractor attaches,

(orange)3 belts go from a 4" pulley there up to a 10" pulley on the spindle input speed is 400 rpm @ 1 : 2.5 that has the blade at 1000rpm. witch gives about 9000-10 000 fpm tip speed.

(blue) as the drive shaft is a hilux axle there is a hub on the end, a hylux split rim goes on there, its 16" diameter, and the other blue wheel is a 10" cast wheel with inner tube stretched over it for grip, a 2" wide flat belt, then the blue wheel is moved up it rubs on the drum and turns clockwise when its pushed down it tightens the belt and goes anticlockwise.

the other end of that shaft (red) has a 2.5" pulley, that drives down to a 6" pulley on the end of the feed drive shaft (red)

so gearing there is 1:1.6 increase then 1:2.4 reduction so it ends up being 1:1.5 reduction.

so input is 400rpm feed spindle is doing 266rpm. on a 1.5" drum its doing 100 fpm max feed.

if thats to fast i can just change the pulley ratio of add some more layers of rubber to the friction wheel.

[buildthisfixthat]

how does the cable move the carriage ,?contious spool on to a drum ,as i have tried that method and the problem was the cable all twisted and wandered on the drum after turning a few turns so i had to loop the cable around the drive pulley ,are you using cable 2 drums 1 for forward 1 reverse ?

[weisyboy]

im gunna use 2 ropes insted of one rope and count on friction. one rope looped will sross over itself. unless your drum is groved to allow for it.

[weisyboy]

i took some pics this morning not mutch to show its just rhs welded up




the main frame is done. im working out shat positions now. iv run into a few snags with that, my hilux rim is to big diamiter and dosent leave room for the otehr wheel,
so iv found a 10" pulley off the old chaff cutter it has a 50mm bore and i need 40mm so ill bush up the shaft.

it will work better anyhow,

once i get the bits i need on monday ill be able to put all the shafts on and have the head working, then i just gota put it in place lay out the track and build the carrigge.

[weisyboy]

here you can see that with the split rim on there isnt enough clearance underneath. as the pulley needs to drop/raise about 70mm to tention belt or run on rim.




so i got this 250mm pulley to go on the shaft. its got a 50mm bore and the end of the shaft is 40mm so ill get them to bush it out when i get the spline cut on the end.




be putign the smaller pulley on it means i can lift it up, and put it threw the rails, witch meas i gain about 7" or more underneath.

[buildthisfixthat]

looks good interested in seeing it cut through a 10"log the blade is 36" have you accounted for tooth style,what is the kerf on the blade the less teeth ,the faster it has to turn ,more teeth more power to cut and more pressure to feed the log  what tooth style is the blade ?

[weisyboy]

it is 8 tooth, with 6mm wide tungsten tips with full length gullets to allow big bites. it will need to run at about 1400 rpm.

i have changed again, i found a high speed pto attachment for the tractor it runs at engine rpm. so i will fix that direct to the saw spindle and tehn drive back from there witch means i will save big $$ on pulleys and belts where i will need 1 A section not 3 B section.

if the trctor has enough power 55hp it will cut fast, especialy in pine. i should be ble to cut logs up to 14" diamiter. with a 12" cut depth.

[buildthisfixthat]

any progress on the saw ??

[weisyboy]

might get time this arvo, iv been busy with this work thing that keeps getting in the way.

all i gotta do is drill holes and mount the shafts up.

i managed to find a high speed pto shaft for the tractor so i can mount direct to the saw spindle.

then i need to mount a 6 spline shaft on the saw spindle. and its mobile.

[weisyboy]

i drilled 2 holes this arvo. i need to roll it over and its starting to get heavier.

[weisyboy]

got the feed all hooked up.







nearly there boys.

[weisyboy]

had to put a pto spline on the end of my saw shaft, thought about getting it machined on, bugger that ill just weld a length on.

but can i keep it alighned, turns out i impressed myself. perfect,







even found me some line wheels, saves the 300 bucks id have to fork out for them, EACH.