Garrett skidder support

[mad murdock]

To all who are interested.  Don Garrett, the late owner of Garrett Enumclaw, who supported Garrett skidders, from the model 10 up to the latest production models, died a few months back, kind of all of the sudden.  Adam Garrett is liquidating what parts he can, and they will probably be shutting down the business by the end of this year.  If you have a need for parts, or manuals etc. etc.  the time to get them would be now.  IF any other Garrett owners are on the forum, maybe we could form some sort of association that the family would consider bequeathing blueprints and or other documents to so a group could continue supporting the older iron that is still out there.  Any ideas?

[mad murdock]

http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?&pos=-85948
http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?&pos=-85949

Trying to figure out this photo posting thing.  If it works you should see a couple of shots of my Garrett Skidder.

[beenthere]

mad
You are doing fine on the photo thing, up to a point. 

They are in your gallery, and you can now put the images in your post by clicking on the sentence in green (just scroll down and see that line below your gallery pic).

Also, can check your progress by clicking on the Preview button before clicking on the Post button. Make any changes that corrects what you are not happy with.

The skidder looks like it will get you some wood out.

[mad murdock]

OK Been There, I found the line you were talking about, here goes nothing


WOW  It works!  Thanks for the helpful tip.  I had to copy and paste the html to the post, as my browser probably is non-compliant (Firefox).  I am finally getting the hang of this thing!

[treefarmer87]

nice looking little skidder!

[mad murdock]

Here are scanned copies of the original advertisement from 1964


I hope you can see the info ok.  Kind of hard to see when I resized it for the upload.

[John Woodworth]

Garrets Rule!

[John Woodworth]

mad murdock : next paint job Old Catipiller Yellow was the original color.

[mad murdock]

Thanks for the info John.  I hope to be rebuilding the engine this winter, and that will be a good time to repaint.  It looks like an old Allis Chalmers color now, don't know the history on the current color.  There is a guy near Cannon Beach, ORE who has a model 15 gas powered, he told me his machine has an extra joint in the center, that it is sort of double articulated, and can really snake through the woods, as it can double over on itself. He said he thinks it was a factory option.

[John Woodworth]

I don't know what the man told you about double articulated, I can't remember the steering on the 15, do you have one steering cylinder or two working through a Idler arm, thats what the 21 uses and the idler arm is on the front frame between the hinge pins with a cylinder to the frdouble articulatedont and a cylinder to the rear. The Garrett turns so short to start with that it can't double articulate with out drive line problems, see if you can get a picture of his set-up.

[mad murdock]

I will see if he still has his machine and try to get a pic.  My machine has one steering cylinder on the left side.  I will be getting whatever info I can from Adam before the opportunity is gone for good.

[John Woodworth]

mad murdock: I've been thinking about the machine you were talking about and wonder if it wasn't  a Garrett 20, they look very much like a 15 only a bit bigger, as I remember they had dual turn cylinders with a idler, If you see the machine the 20's had a 353 Detroit for power and a mdl 9 Gearmatic winch. Wonder if thats the case and he's thought it was a 15 all along.

[redlaker1]

howdy all,   I just got a small garrett skidder so I hope I havent missed the boat here.    its a bit of a fixer upper but I havent been able to go over it too thoroughly yet.   
so I have a few questions,   I think from reading a bit that it is the smallest garrett model 10?   it is about 6'6" wide,   and around 14' long.     it has a 4cyl gas engine.   

it sure would be nice to get some literature and information on it.    not sure if garrett had parts or service manuals.     
as well if anyone knows of any common issues or weaknesses to keep an eye out for.

I will try and take a picture or two and post them up

[John Woodworth]

redlaker1: there is nothing avaible as far as manuals for the 10, I've had mine for 30 years and was never able to get anything, most everything is covered in the 15 manual if you can find one.

The weak points on the 10 are the head gasket, the axle cone washers, make sure to check the axle nuts regularly, when they loosen up the axle works and will snap the studs, also if you ever rebuild the motor the 272 should not be bored more than .30 or it will overheat, if it needs more than that have it sleeved back to standard.

Always use a metalic clutch even though a standard ford clutch will fit you end up with shifting problems and holding a adjustment with the automotive disc.

The 10 is a good machine don't run anyting more than 1/2'' on the drum and that will hold anything it will pull, what I like about them is where ever you can get the blade through the machine will go, perfect for thinning.

The Biggest problem you will face is tires, babysit what you have as there is nothing on the market, I ended up using 12x28 tractor tires which on my rims bring it down to10x28 the correct size but you have to be a lot more careful where you go.

Any questions I can help you with let me know.

[mad murdock]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Redlaker1.  Congrats on your Garrett 10 acquisition.  I had never known of Garrett prior to buying my machine, since I cut my teeth in the woods back in the Great Lakes region, standard fare was Franklin, CanCar, TJ, JD, IH, Case, Pettibone, etc.  After getting my machine, I did a bit of research into Garrett and was edumicated on the history of the skidder, to say the least.  When you have a Garrett, you are going back to the roots of modern day skidders, as Dwight Garrett first built the articulated AWD skidder in 1949.  There is a wealth of knowledge on the FF, and as I stated in the beginning of this post, there may be a few parts/pieces kicking around back in Enumclaw, but Adam Garrett is winding things down with Garrett Enumclaw for good by the end of this year, you will have to contact him to see if there is anything that he has that could be of help on your machine. 

[redlaker1]

here is a few pics of my little skidder,  havent brought it home yet but plan to in the next few days.   the owners agreed to me buying it only on the condition that I give it a good home and get it running and use it.

a few questions,     does anyone know the ballpark weight of one of these units?    and where would be a good place to look for specs on the engine, trans, axles and winch?  

I really havent had a chance to look it over much,   but will when I get it to my place.   probably work on it as a winter project.    I am a journeyman HD mechanic so I am no novice,   but I dont have much experience with gas engines, forestry equipment,  or anything this old really.   but I think it should be pretty simple once I get into it.  

looking forward to getting this unit running,    thanks for the help and info guys

[John Woodworth]

redlaker1: looks just like mine, mine was sold new in 1964 and yours is in that ball park as the later ones had a different frame. the engine is a Ford Industrial 172 Ci. Rear ends are Rockwell common in the older 1 1/2 ton trucks but the gear ratio is 8:3 to 1 if I remember right, the trans came off the old Ford Flathead truck (1/2-1ton) motors. your winch is a gearmatic mdl. 8A.

Where are you located at? would almost be easier to pass some of the important things that I've run into through the years by phone.

I can run some copyies of the important things if you can't find books but I don't wan't to get too involved there as last year I coppied the bulk of the complete 15 manual for a guy here on the forum and for what it cost me never even got a thanks.

E-Mail me if you want to get in touch, will be glad to help.

[redlaker1]

thanks for the offer John,  I may take you up on that someday.

right now I still need to get the machine over to my garage so I was wondering if anyone knows the approximate weight of a garrett model 10.

I measured  and it will fit on my car hauler,  but not sure if it would be too heavy and if I should borrow my friends gooseneck float

thanks again

oh I am up in canada,  northern ontario

[John Woodworth]

Redlaker1: i believe the 10 weighs around 7000lbs, I've hauled mine many times on tandem axle utility trailers without any problems.

[treefarmer87]

i have never seen any around here, i would like to buy one and fix it up.

[Corley5]

Cool machine 

[redlaker1]

well I got the old girl home.    going to be a while before I will have the time to get it in the garage and start the restoration...   but I am really looking forward to it
everything went well getting it here and it winched on nicely.
here is a few pics





thanks for the help and tips

[John Woodworth]

Redlaker1: it's nice to see the pictures, someone in the past has realy taken care of it even still having the running lights is something,there are panels missing on the front l/R of frame you will notice the bolt holes, plan on putting something back as it is a trap for sticks without.

Do you know the history of how it got to your area, it,s unusal to be that far from where it was built especialy how rare they are.

Old Catipiller yellow when it comes to paint time, mine has the same Navy Grey primer underneath.

They are close quartered in the operators position and may take a bit to get used to the steering but is the quickest in the woods and wherever you can get the blade through the rest will follow.

Am interest to see your progress, thats the best looking 10 I,ve ever seen and know you'll enjoy it once it's running.

[redlaker1]

I'm not too sure about the history of the machine,   I plan to ask the family I got it from as it belonged to their father.        its funny actually I found a good friend of mine has a garrett skidder as well that is still being used.  it doesnt have the canopy on it it though,   they use it for towing and winching floatplanes out of the water.     I know the guy that maintained it for many years so I know he will be a good source of information.

I had a chance to look it over again quickly today and turned over a few times with the fan hub,   there are lots of little things that need attention though..  lots of play in the linkages on the blade and steering valves,  pedals,  and definitely needs new pto and throttle cables,   u-joints, needs new rad possibly because there was no cap on it.    lots of it is minor,  but being a mechanic I am a bit picky

I am starting to gather enough gear for a small woods operation   haha   this will take a bit of strain off my mini excavator  which is my dozer/crane/yarder/woodloader/skidder/excavator

[mad murdock]

Thanks for posting the pics Redlaker1.  You will not regret getting the ole girl shipshape, as John says, they are one of the best machines in the woods for snaking in tight quarters.  For the rest of you on the forum who may have an interest in acquiring a Garrett, check out the classifieds in the Capital Press Ag newspaper, here is the link.  There is an occasional machine that shows up in there from time to time.  http://www.capitalpress.com/Classifieds/results/?CategoryLink=IRRIGATION,HEAVY-FARM&ClassificationID=1410&operator=search  or maybe you will find one on Craigslist like I did, but hey, there is a lot of good old iron out there, if a guy needs a machine, and looks around.  I see lots of equipment sitting idle these days.

[redlaker1]

quick question guys,   would my garrett be positive ground?     that sure seems to be the case

as well wondering about the steering and lift cylinders,  if they are a common brand and if there is seal kits available?

[Buck]

That lil machine is SWEET!

[John Woodworth]

Redlaker1: your skidder should be negative ground, any hydraulic supply should be able to come up with seal kits, if you do replace the cylinders update to a larger bore size as the standard ones are pretty wimpy when it comes to power, I have chlinders off a 25 on mine one it will lift just about anything within reason.

[John Woodworth]

Redlaker1: did some checking, if you still have a generator it will be positive ground.

[redlaker1]

john,  I do still have a generator.   I had hooked up the battery positive ground and gave it a few cranks today just checking things out.  engine was turning the right way but it didnt fire.   still have to check a few other things over.      generator looks pretty ratty so I was thinking I will just put an alternator on it for simplicity when I get it running. 

thanks again for all the info   

[northwoods1]

I used to work with a crew on the Menominee Reservation that was running one of those 10 models. They had it fixed up real nice. If I remember correctly the guy put 4 new road grader tires on it which were much more durable than tractor tires. There is also a perfectly restored one in the showroom at Woodland Equip. up in Iron River MI. or at least there used to be. tc

[John Woodworth]

Garrett through the years put out many machines most people have never seen much less know about, through the years going over to their shop for parts they always seemed to have something diffrent parked there, one tine it was one of the first 10's to come out, it had planetry axles, another a 15 set up as a fork lift, no blade and you sat facing the rear which was where the forklift was, very impressive, another a 15 set up with a crane boom on the rear, no blade. Their mdl. 16 was a awsom machine, in between the 15 and 20 the first had the aircooled German deisel, later 353. Their most impressive where the 30 and 35's which had more power than the machine needed and you had to wach yourself on a hard pull in a turn or you could blow the center driveline.

The thing I always found special was Don, he always knew who I was when I called for parts and I never needed a part number for he was a walking parts book and if he didn't have it knew where to get it, he even sent me the original build plans to build the brk. caliper mount whin I got my 2'nd 21. He was a man all you Garrett owners should have known and a little bit of him is in each and every Garrett built and I wouldn't trade my Garrett's for all the Cat's, Jd's and Mountain Logger's I've run in the past.

This One's for you Don and all you Garrett owners.

[mad murdock]

Thanks for that John,  I did not know Don real well, but was privileged to speak with him about my machine several times.  He was awesome.  My hope in starting this thread was that we could figure out a way to keep support for Garrett skidders going somehow, either by creating a knowledgebase, or acquiring any data/materials Garrett related that the family was going to get rid of, since Adam is winding things down for them.  I really appreciate your knowldeg and input John, as I have found it very helpful to me in keeping my machine operating.  Still going on my neighbors piece, picking away at it.  I will be posing new questions as I get into my engine this winter. 

[redlaker1]

thanks for the history bits john,    I really find this stuff interesting.   my grandfather would have been really excited to see this old skidder,  he worked in the bush his whole life and in the early days he ran an experimental camp to test out the first skidders from john deere and see if they could replace the horses and tractors.     its pretty cool that these old skidders are still running almost 50 years later

so I have a few more questions.     

went over the ignition system and gave it a tuneup,  but still only get a really weak spark.   was looking on the web and find that there are kits available to convert the points and condenser to an electronic system.  is this a good way to go or should I just get a kit to fix up the old system?

as well my generator is in pretty rough shape but I found a kit on a tractor supply website for converting to a normal 12v neg ground alternator.   looks like that is what I will try.
I also found that I can get a new radiator which was used in an old ford tractor,  so that is good because mine is in bad shape
nice to see that there are lots of places to get engine and related parts

and last    I was looking at the drop box on the rear dif and it definitely needs bearings and seals.   was this dropbox something commerciallly available or was it a garrett custom part?


thanks again for all the help   I really appreciate it

let me know when I am over my limit for questions

[John Woodworth]

redlaker1: your ignition if original should be a non-resister coil goung through a ballist resister and wire core  plug wires, by all means if you can get a conversion kit just make sure your upper bushing is tight as the conversion works of a set air gap and shouldn't vary that much.

Your better off with the alt. conversion just look for a one wire hook up alt which saves you from having to wire in a regulator and by all means save your old generator for if you were to take it back to original, allso do you have the two six volt batteries? by going alt. a single battery is enough and it doesn't have to be all that big.

by drop box are you talking of the chain box on the front of the punkin with the top drive line to trans, bottom between both rearends? if so that was a Garrett product but bearings and seals are no problem from a good parts store, they should be able to look them up by number' I have the seal number if you can't read yours. Just be sure and check the chain tension before you take it apart so you will know how tight to adjust it putting it back together, if you get it too tight the pinnion flexes up and will leak oil at the seal and can cause the pinnion nose bearing casting in the housing.

One thing I forgot to tell you all was the Garrett 10 with the planetary axles was powered with a Wisconson V-4, was realy a neet looking machine.

[barbender]

It's a shame- no one makes a small unit like that anymore. That's a neat little machine.

[mad murdock]

John, Question for you about the starter on the Ford Diesel;  Is there an aftermarket high torque starter motor available, that will fit on the 172?  I had to replace my starter when I bought my machine, got a rebuilt one from the auto-electric shop, it did ok for a while, now the engine will not start on it's own, cranking rpms are not enough--turning too slow to fire off.  I know that it is due to the worn rings/pistons/sleeves, but it will fire off in a second if I pull it about 2 or so. Just want to be sure I get a good starter on it, as in the factory engine manual it even states that the starter motor needs to spin the engine at about 300 rpm, or it is not up to par.

[John Woodworth]

mad murdock: I'm assuming your engine has been eithered to start and that starting warm is ok. The only thing you can do with the starter is with a good rebuilder they can update the armature and fields for a little more cranking power and be sure your barrery has the highest cold cranking amps you can get that will fit.

You have talked about rebuilding the mtr. thats the ultimate answer and don't ever use either, it rounds the upper edges off the compression rings to the point it won't cold start without. Do you have a portabile generator, if so put a block heater on it and in the morning run it while your getting everything ready for the day, just rember to unplug it before starting as running with it plugged in can burn out the heater.

I know that not the answer your looking for but if you can't find a rebuilder that can update your starter, I can line you up with the man who does mine although we have some miles between us. You rebuild your starter, have a good battery and with a block heater it might buy you some time.

[northwoods1]

It sure would be nice if someone still produced a little skidder like this these days. Probably want 100k for it though! I remember once I was working on the Menominee reservation here near my home and one of the crews working next to me was running one of these little skidders. One day a group of people came out and filmed it skidding some logs for some type of documentary. They hooked up this huge 10or 12' pine log to it and got some shots of it bringing that out of the woods. Actually the log was so big they had to take another skidder and give them a push to get going that little machine couldn't quite get that log started by itself. Mad murdock I would give the whole starting system a good going over before swapping for a heavier starter. Particularly make sure good high cranking # battery w/good connections & cables. My first cable machine I ever owned was a c4d tree farmer with a ford engine. I ran it for at least 7-8 years before swapping it and the truth was that it needed ether every time you started it cold and I mean even if it was 90 degrees out! Thing was the old girl always started with just a little shot,  I never had to do anything with that engine the entire time I ran it.  Once you use ether on an engine regularly it is addicted to it but can still go for a long time yet. All the equipment I have ever bought "brand new" one of my cardinal rules is never use ether! I have a quick coupler set up that I can hook my diesel pickup to the machines and warm them up to operating temp before hitting the start button. I normally use that setup when it gets down near freezing gives me an excuse to sit tin the truck for a few more minutes drinking coffee too. tc

[mad murdock]

Thanks guys for the input.  John, it does take just a teeny sniff of ether even when warm.  The engine will be getting a walk-through this winter if I can get the time and the cash to do it.  The oil consumption tells me the rings are about gone, not to mention the smoke out the exhaust (oil smoke) and the healthy amount of blow-by coming out the breather button on the valve cover.  If I push it hard on a good sized drag, it will push a bit of oil out the breather as well.  If the dip stick is not pushed down past the catch spring, it will pop up, and oil will come out while the engine is running.  Oil pressure is ok, just a lot of blow-by.  I meant to type that if I pull it a foot or 2 it pops off instantly.  When I first put on the rebuilt starter, it would start up ok with a little sniff of ether, but when hot, it had to cool down or it would not start with the starter.  Pulling it, it will always pop.  I priced a engine rebuild set for about 675.00 including all gaskets, rings pistions, sleeves, bearings ect.  I think it even included new valve springs, and valve stem seals.  The only question mark on this which will be answered as soon as I yard the head off, is if it has sleeves or not.  Hopefully that answer will be yes.  If not, I can have the machine work done locally for about 120.00 a hole.  When I get it done, I will for sure never use ether, especially since it does have intake heaters on it, and they work pretty well.  I did go through the injector timing procedure, to make sure it was as good as it could be, and it was pretty close.  I did adjust the idle speed a bit, and tweaked the timing just a smidge to get it as best as could be for condition all things are at, and it did help some.  Northwoods1, when my brothers and I logged in Vilas Co. area, we had all of our equipment set up with the quick connect coolant hose setup.  Saved a ton on breakdowns and other issues that you will get into when operating in -20 deg and colder.  We used to shut things down when it got much colder than that, as it seemed like we would have more problems than it was worth if we pushed it in the cold too much.  Metal does really strange things when it gets that cold out!  I must admit, being here in Oregon has spoiled me for sure.  We only get a week or 2 at most per year where the thermometer dips below freezing during the day, most of the time the temps hover from 35-50 degrees.  Sure beats -40 plus!

[John Woodworth]

mad-murdock: hate to give you the bad news but your engine does not have sleeves, it's a diffrent block than the 172 tracror mtr. which was sleeved.

The thing you need to be careful on is in boring the motor, .20 ok, .30 marginal, anything over that they will overheat. my engene I over bored it and sleeved it back to standard, so be careful there and a good machine shop should be able to help you there, regaurdless you are going to have too mutch cylinder wear to just re-ring so see where you are bore size and cyl. wear before you order any parts and remember the 172 Ford Industrial is a diffrent engine from the one that takes sleeves.

It's best to let the machine shop get the pistons for you when the bore it, the wrist pins are free-floating so you can still put the block together yourself without a press if you want to.

[mad murdock]

Thanks a bunch John for the info.  I am sure I will have more when the time comes to tear into it this winter.  I was kind of thinking that the engine was of the no-sleeve variety originally.  If it is sleeved already, it will be because it was done by a previous owner then.  If you look at the pics in my gallery, you will see that the arch is not original equip.  It looks like an old TJ arch or something welded on the back frame.  Whoever did it, did a good job.  I was told by Don that according to the SN of my machine, it was originally sold to Portland Road Co. back in '64.  They maybe had special equipment on it.  He told me that they sold several model 15's to the big lettuce producers in California, and had a 3 pt hitch arrangement adapted to the back to pull plows, and other field equipment.  My blade on the front has a metal bracket on the left side, upper side, that looks like it may have had some kind of construction related thing that fit on it.....who knows?

[mad murdock]

John,
Is it feasible to do the engine work with the engine in the skidder?  With all plates, and panels off ,access looks good.  That is of course if the cylinders do not need machining. 

[John Woodworth]

Very much so, I've in framed two 15's in the past although it really isn't that bad to pull the motor. Check your cylinder wear, any more than .0010 and I'd re-bore and sleeve if I were you. I tried to buy some time years ago on one with .0012 and it ended up popping one of the wrist pin keepers causing the wristpin to go through the cylinder wall.

For your own sake don't cut corners, years from now you will thank your self, my 10 I overhauled in 1982 and has never been apart since and runs as strong today as it did then and have never regreted what it cost at the time.

[mad murdock]

Thanks John for your sage advice.  FYI, for my day job I am a helicopter mechanic, so as far as cutting corners are concerned, my wife accuses me constantly of overbuilding everything I approach, as it is hard for me to do anything without thinking of when am I going to have to fix this again, and how can I make it easy to get to to service.  I am amazed when I see the sloppy (by my standards) and hokey (again, compared to aviation) materials, processes, and standards that go into home construction and such.  Most especially, the plumbing trades. Nothing personal against plumbers, I have relatives who are plumbers by trade.  I will certainly pull the block if the cylinders at all look iffy. The manual I have has all of the service and OH specs, so I will be able to mic things when I get to tearing into it.  My biggest problem right now is i will have to buy some 1/2" 3/4" and 1" drive sockets, and larger wrenches, as the aircraft world is about 80% 1/4" drive stuff, and 7/32" to 1" on the wrench sizes.  Used to have a full set of large tools, when my brothers and I logged full time, and maintained all of the equipment ourselves.  I will keep you posted on the progress as I get into it.  BTW, I got some Cat yellow rattle can, this paint is made by a Moeller if you have heard of them, we buy it from a commercial marine supplier, Moeller still manufactures the good (really caustic by enviro standards), zinc chromate primers, that stick to non-ferrous metals like the toughest glue you have ever seen!
Their line of engine paints are tough as iron as well, even out of a rattle can!  I will have to blow up the tree farmer logo, and hand paint that back on the machine as well.

[Hoss]

I have enjoyed reading this Garrett thread. I live in Buckley, WA which is three miles from Enumclaw where the Garrett skidders were manufactured. The museum in Buckley has the original skidder manufactured by Garrett, so I stopped by to take a look. They said it was donated by Garrett himself and before he passed away he bought new tires all around for it. It looks like a model 15 but it has no model number on it that I could see. The skidder has a sign that says it was number one of 20,000 made in Enumclaw, WA,
Thunder Bay Ontario, CA, and Malmo, Sweden.
Hoss

[mad murdock]

Hoss, If you are back at the museum anytime, you can locate the model # and serial# it is on the left side of the main frame rail, stamped in the inside, near the front of the machine.  I LOVE my machine! I think that Garrett Skidders are the best thing since sliced bread! 

[Bobus2003]

well I got the old girl home.    going to be a while before I will have the time to get it in the garage and start the restoration...   but I am really looking forward to it
everything went well getting it here and it winched on nicely.
here is a few pics

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(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

thanks for the help and tips

Theirs a machine similiar too this one a few miles from my house.. Think its still in operating condition

[treefarmer]

Having some trouble with a gearmatic model 8A. Heard you were the guy to talk to. Winch was just rebuilt and won't hold the load up like it should. Seems like an adjustment problem. Spring on brake band is tightened all the way and still doesn't hold band up. Possibly a new spring?

[mad murdock]

Putting this post up front for those interested, I got a hold of a 1964 TreeFarmer manual, it was originally issued to the owner of a model 15 Garrett TreeFarmer SN 6405263, it even has the Gearmatic 8A winchadrum parts and maintenance sheets in the back. I will see if I can get it scanned into my computer and post them in a file on here somehow, maybe for now my gallery pics.  I will work on that next week.  along with a few pics of the cover, nice bright red manual with yellow lettering.  Found it on Craigslist for $25.00 from a guy within 50 miles of me!

[redlaker1]

Hey guys,  been a long time since I've posted on here,  but I thought I would bring an old thread back.

I have finally got to working on my old garrett in the last week or so.   I installed a new radiator,  electronic ignition and coil, new plugs and wires, and 12v alternator,  re-wired the whole machine,  new gauges, set the valves,  rebuilt the carb and checked everything over.   
so I finally fired it up last night and can't believe how good it runs.   so now I am going to work my way back through the machine and fix what needs to be fixed.

I saw the thread from garretts and have contacted them regarding manuals and would like to find out where the machine was originally sold.

I am wondering where on the machine I could find the serial #  or if the model 10s even had a serial # on them.

sure I will have more questions as time goes on while I am working on the machine

[mad murdock]

Hey Redlaker good to hear of your update! The old ford industrial is a pretty tough engine. I finally broke down and got my 15A going good this last spring, and it runs real good now. John W. may chime in on this, (he has a mod 10 also) on mine the SN is stamped on the left frame about where the battery sits just behind the front radiator guard ( armor).

[redlaker1]

well I looked and scraped off some dirt and found what might be the serial #   its on the left side frame rail near the front.    the number is 60 stamped into the metal.   not sure if that is it or not.

took the lid off the trans today and there was some water in there,   not sure where it got in,  but some of the gears are a little rusty.   they dont look bad enough to tear it apart just yet.   I think I will flush it real good and run it a bit and drop the oil a few times and then take a look and see if the gears are holding up.

excited about getting this thing in operating shape,   something about hearing that engine fire up gets you motivated again

[Mark Standley]

The other day I got ahold of a Garrett 10 the motor was seized up I brought it home pulled the head off freed up the motor put plugs, points, changed the oil, new starter. It fired right up and runs good was neat to drive it around. I do need some blade cylinders though. was cool to hear it run it had been sitting for over 10 years. The serial# was on a tag on the dash. I did talk to Adam to get operators manual that will help a lot.

[mad murdock]

Mark, here is the link to a thread that Adam Garrett started a while back, has links to some cool pics of some of the Garrett equpment etc. that they built over the years.  Fascinating stuff, to me anyways..
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=51852.0

[UN Hooker]

 redlaker1
     On my C-4 the water was getting in the transmission by following the stick. I went to China Mart, in the pet department and found a tough rubber ball (for dogs to chew on) cut it in half, drilled a hole in it a little smaller than the base of the stick and slid it on with a little RTV. That cured the water problem.

 

 

[terry f]

       Thanks for the thread mad murdock. John, do you know much about the model 16? I'm thinking about one, it has a air cooled diesel and looks in good shape. The price is a little high, but I might have a trade going. The owner says its never overheated, but I can't see how a air cooled diesel could stay cool.

[mad murdock]

Your welcome terry.  If the engine is a deutz, or something similar, it is a great engine. Deutz put a blower fan and a well designed shroud on their air cooled engines. Those things could run years with no problems!

[redlaker1]

UNhooker  thanks for the tip,   the gasket on the cover looked good so I the stick was my main suspect.   when I get back to working on it I will make something up to eliminate that leak.

terry,   mad murdock is right about the air cooled deutz,  they are rock solid and havent changed much over the years,   where I work we have at least 50 machines running those 912 and 413 series deutz engines in 3,4,5,6cyl, v6, v8 configurations,   and they run them hard and as long as the fan is turning I cant remember the last time one overheated.   anther nice thing is no electronics,   just a few sensor wires, starter, glow plugs....   
I am a big fan of the deutz.     my model 10 would be pretty neat with a 3 or 4 cyl deutz.       maybe duct the fan back in the winter for some heat  haha

[treefarmer87]

the c5 i am getting has a 3 cyl deutz in it. It came out of a trencher i havent seen one in a c5 before     

[mad murdock]

A lot of the CanCar Tree Farmers where I grew up (N. Wisc) had Deutz power, mostly 4 and 5 cyl.  Very good engines, quiet, powerful and EASY on fuel, plus very little maintenance.
If I had a Deutz in my skidder I would be glad of it, Though the ford Ind. diesel is plenty tough, it is really hard to knock the Deutz, IMO.

[lumberjack48]

treefarmer87 i got a feeling your going to be a little under powered.

I've seen 4 cylinder in the C4 and the C5 had a 5 cylinder

[treefarmer87]

i think so too, but the skidder is $4500 the motor and winch are new . i was goging to try it with the deutz, and if i dont like it, there is a place on the internet where i can order a brand new 4bt cummins for $2000

[snowstorm]

i think so too, but the skidder is $4500 the motor and winch are new . i was goging to try it with the deutz, and if i dont like it, there is a place on the internet where i can order a brand new 4bt cummins for $2000

brand new cummins for 2k??i'll take 10 of em

[treefarmer87]

do you think a 4bt cummins would be a better motor for it?

[Corley5]

Probably would be better than the 3 cylinder Deutz power wise but to swap in a Cummins you're also going to need a radiator    I see F4L 912 Deutz engines on E-bay for 3,000.00.  They should be a direct swap for the F3L 912 

[lumberjack48]

You want 100+ hp motor for the C5 or  you'll be stuck in the mud   

[tundratilly]

Hello! I'm new to the forum and have a little news for ALL! garrett owners. Here is a site to help find parts. These parts are NOS parts. I owned a C-4 from 1989-1992 and loved it. It was used commercialy and I swaped out the 172 Ford engine (gas) for a 172 Ford diesel. Made a huge different in torque and used 50% less fuel than the gas. This is the place G.F. Preston Sales. They are located in Sunridge Ontario Canada....gfpreston.com......877-245-2456...they have about 95% of the parts for old garrett and other C-4 variants........Hope this helps!!!

[mad murdock]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum Tundratilly!  That is awesome news
These old machines are just too good to put down   I really like my machine!

[redlaker1]

thanks for the tip tundratilly,   will definitely look them up when I am trying to source out parts. 

as for the gas engine,  I probably wont be using mine enough to warrant an engine swap at the moment.    but you never know.   once I get it going I imagine I will be finding all kinds of little jobs for it.