Shed-Seven

[Qweaver]

Well David was getting cranky about the Dozer and backhoes setting out in the weather so I drew up the plans, fired up the LT28 and here is the result.  Got the roof blacked in and the metal pre-drilled to go on in the next few days...a coat of primer and paint and we are golden.  What next?  We wanted to do the roof today but the threat of rain put us on hold.  Raining hard out there right now.
We did stay dry long enough to dig out this huge stump.  I was wondering if we would get her for a while there.  Amazing what you can do with a backhoe and a small dozer.
 

[fishpharmer]

Looks good Qweaver.   I guess its fair to say you like your lt28?

[WDH]

Everyone that I know could use a shed like that including me  .  Is that yellow poplar siding?

[Magicman]

The shed is very nice, but I like them TRACTORS !!!  It's just the boy in me.   

[Qweaver]

Yes sir, I do like the LT28. It's a huge step-up from the LT15.
It's all poplar except for the treated posts.
The cross beams were sawn at 1.75x10 and 1.75x8.  Rafters sawn 1.625x6, siding nailers @ 1.5x4, siding 1x10.  I sheeted the roof with 5/8" OSB and 1x4" poplar strips to screw the metal roof to. 
I'm going to concrete 2 stalls and leave one dirt for the dozer.  The building is 24'x36'.  I haven't worked out the board feet used. 

[Qweaver]

Well, the metal is on the roof and the outside has 2 coats of paint and I'm ready to put on the battens.  I've never put on battens.  Could I nail them on with 15 ga finish nails with my air nailer?  I'm thinking these small headed nails may not hold.  I sawed the battens 3/4" x 2.5"  8p box nails may be a better choice but I don't have an air nailer for that size and there are a LOT of nails.
I'm loving these 12' wide bays.
Quinton

[WH_Conley]

I usually put one nail in the batten, aim for the crack between the boards. That way everything can move as it gains and looses moisture. My weapon of choice is a number 8 or 10 nail in my Paslode nail gun, galvanized for what shows, no rust stains that way.

[Qweaver]

That's why I ask questions here.  I would have not thought about just using one nail in the center.  I would have thought that the batten would cup using just one nail.  But if you usually do it this way with no problems then that makes it much easier.
Thanks

[WH_Conley]

Check grain, turn them til if they cup they will cup in, the bow will be out, there is where the nail in center really works well.

[shinnlinger]

ONe nail in the center of the batten is the way to go to allow for expansion contraction, but I use full round head ring shanks and 1x4 battens.  Does a guy with a hoe and dozer  really need an excuse to buy a  framing nailer??

[Piston]

  Does a guy with a hoe and dozer  really need an excuse to buy a  framing nailer??

I couldn't have said it better myself 
Good work on the shed!   I sure could use one of those.

[submarinesailor]

ONe nail in the center of the batten is the way to go to allow for expansion contraction, but I use full round head ring shanks and 1x4 battens.

Ditto - but make sure they are galvanized.  I pick them up at the blue box store.

Bruce

[Qweaver]

I actually own 3 nailers.  An 18ga, 15 ga and a framing nailer.  I use the 18 and 15 a lot but have never driven a nail with the framing gun.  I prefer driving hot dip galvanized 16p with a hammer but I guess I'll fire it up to nail these battens on.  I guess it will drive 8p.  I don't have the book for it.

[WH_Conley]

Set the depth of drive not to bury the nail, let the lumber dry and then go back over the nails with a smooth faced hammer, not a waffle head, cuts down on marring.

[Qweaver]

I'm really surprised at how fast the siding boards have dried out. They were sawn and put up right away.  In three weeks they have already shrunk up as much as my other shed that was built the same way last summer.  The logs were felled last summer and had dried some but I now have 1/2" to 5/8" gaps and I think they are done shrinking.  I have the battens sawn and stickered and I'm going to wait a week to paint the battens before I nail them up. This will help reduce the amount of movement.  If I leave the back side unpainted they should only cup inwards...I hope.  
Quinton

[WDH]

Q,

Wood cups toward the bark. 

[Qweaver]

Hey WD, I respect your input and I'm sure you are right but as I was reading your post I got to thinking about how I was instructed to install treated 2x6 decking and my 2x8 treated pier boards.  They are installed with the "frown" showing...that would be bark side up.  I've never done battens but I've done a lot of pier boards and decking with the bark side up. This is claimed to reduce upward cupping.  I have mistakenly nailed some on with the smile showing and they did cup up.  Am I mis-reading your comment?
Quinton

[DouginUtah]

Danny,

I hesitate to reply to your "Wood cups toward the bark" statement as I may be misunderstanding what you are saying, but tell me if this is wrong...

If you look at the end grain of a flatsawn board the growth rings form arcs. As the wood dries those arcs will tend to straighten, which would put the convex surface on the side away from the bark. Right?

Maybe the word "cups" needs to be defined. 

[dnalley]

To me, if you don't want your cup to hold water....it's bark side down.

[Qweaver]

Now I am totally confused.  I just watched 5 different "installing decking" videos and everyone of them recommended orienting the boards bark side up to avoid cupping.  Yet when I look at shrinkage charts I see the opposite.  I want to get this right before I start painting and nailing.  I have nailed and screwed many thousands of feet of decking...all oriented bark side up.  There has to be something else going on here.