Homemade logging winch

[bandmiller2]

This is old technology and the only thing I can take credit for is telling the story.An auto rear end differential is an almost majical device  custom made for a log winch.First to be handy the r.end should be narrowed, easy with a cut off saw and welder,I prefer the ones with the round tubes that I can use a pipe cutter on.A cable drum on one side hydraulic brake left complete on the outher, drive the pinion with tractor PTO.Helps if you have something to apply some friction to the cable drum.A remote lever to operate the master brake cylinder and you have a winch.As you drive the pinion the brake drum will spin[least resistance] tighten on the brakes and the cable drum will turn.If something hangs up just release a little pressure on the brake lever.Build a three point hitch "A" frame with a fairlead at the top and you have a poor boy logging winch.I have almost completed a constant running capstan for rope pulling, mostly firewood. Be carefull any of this stuff can hurt you. Frank c.

[r.man]

Sounds good. I'm poor, have wanted a skidding winch since I saw one 15 years ago, I have an old car differential and a tractor to hitch it to. Do you have any pictures of one? Thanks for the thought provoker Frank.

[KyTreeFarmer]

Hey Frank
I haven't started my capstan winch yet, too many other projects. Good to see you have about got yours finished. Keep us  posted on how it works.
KTF

[Magicman]

They are on the back of every "short wood" pulp truck around.....except they all haul "long wood" now.  Off to the scrap yard they went.

[zopi]

I'd hunt up an old hydraulic winch, and a pto pump off a TLB backhoe, build a 3pt frame with some fairly heavy caster wheels (to keep the tractor from being tippy..) and a shield to protect the operator..

[Stephen1]

We need a picture or 2 to understand what you are building ....

[sdunston]

This is old technology and the only thing I can take credit for is telling the story.An auto rear end differential is an almost majical device  custom made for a log winch.First to be handy the r.end should be narrowed, easy with a cut off saw and welder, Frank c.

Bandmiller2. I under stand what you are doing ,great idea, what ratio is the rearend you are using?
Sam

[bandmiller2]

Sam the rear end I'am using is out of an old jeep truck I would say probibly 411 although don't think it makes alot of differance.A positraction r.end would not work right.As Majic says the old logging trucks used them to run the swing loaders.Sorry on the picture thing guys it continues to elude me.Frank C.

[pineywoods]

for drawings, look here
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,34196.msg496431.html#msg496431

If you need brakes on the winch drum, add another master cylinder and hook it to the drum side slave cylinder.

[Hilltop366]

Hay Piney I was gona say that, I was also thinking that there is a park brake also that could be used to control the cable release so it don't ball up.
 


note the leaver that the cable passes by, when you pull on the cable it pushes the leaver over to let off the brake, when you stop pulling the brake comes back on, it's a must have imo.

[mick]

Hey Frank,

I like your method of building a winch out of a diff. Shortening the tubes with a pipe cutter and re welding sounds good. How do you shorten the axles?

Regards,
Mick.

[Old Hilly]

Made a machine like that for reclaiming barbed fencing wire. Boy, was that fun!! Took 2 days to make the machine (lots of coffe and conversation ) and about 2 days to wind up all the old wire. Doing the job by hand would have taken weeks and at least a pint of blood.
Occupational health and safety people would have had a real "dummy-spit" if they saw the machine but because I was working about 5' away from the wire I was pretty safe.
I also made a Potter's Wheel out of a back axle assy and a 1/4 HP electric motor. Handy things, the car diffs.
Dennis.

[bandmiller2]

Mick, most rear axles are fordgings and weld nicely.I cut the same amount as the outside tube off with a cutoff abrasive wheel "V" grind the axle ends and weld.I weld a little at a time and keep it straight on an anvil as it will have a tendency to bow.First welds are done with boath pieces clamped in the valley of angle iron.Frank C.

[Slingshot]

 
  Several years ago I bought (traded for?) a 3-point hitch post hole digger someone
 had made with an auto differential. Heavy duty outfit, had a 12 inch auger on it.


_______________________-
Charles

[jerbear]

What a slick idea.... would like to try it some time.

[shinnlinger]

If you didn't want to deal with axle shaft welding, as that is the most critical weld for this strength and straight wise, you could use a front axle from 4x4 s with offset pumpkins.  If you had 2 identical front axles, you could take the short side axle shaft out of one and shorten the long tube on the other to match the short side.  Assemble one axle with 2 short sides and only have to weld the brake hub back on the cut tubing, a far less critical weld and even a full size 4x axle would easily fit behind a medium size tractor if shortened in this way.

I also wonder if certain IFS 4x4 setups would a better as the dif is connected to the hubs by CV joints and half shafts that may be more flexible.

[mick]

Frank, thank you for the reply. I feel that Shinnlingers method of cutting down a diff with an offset centre is a better option in regard to accuracy and strength.There are plenty of old 4x4s about so I think I will go that way but I welcome any other suggestions.

Mick.

[bandmiller2]

Mick, Shinnlingers method is a good one but requires two rather specialized rear ends.I've never found inperfections a problem as we're not crusing the interstate at 60 ,strictly a low speed application.If you have clearance in the tube a piece of pipe can be put over the axle cut, and welded.Reason we're doing this is,  we don't have the money or are too cheap to spend it. Frank C.

[sdunston]

Same idea but a little off topic.Was talking to a guy that said they used to chain there 8N to a tree,block up the back and pull both wheels off, they then put a tireless wheel on one side that was wound with a cable they also used the oppisite side brake to control movement, also had reverse to unwind the cable.
Sam

[shinnlinger]

I bet it wouldn't be too hard to come up with a 4x4 frontend on Craigs list (If you don't already have one kicking around) and then go to a junk yard and buy one matching short axle shaft if you couldn't find one elsewhere.  This won't cost you much and I think it would be alot  easier and quicker ( and provide more peace of mind) than welding axle shafts.

THat said, Frank has a good point.  You aren't cruising the highway with this thing and I happen to teach an electrical systems class and a local guy wants to help my class build an electric car and has collected some stuff to help get us started.  One of those things is a rear axle from an MG midget.  THis thing is pretty narrow and it made me think of this thread.   If you can still find a  70's rear wheel drive import car or a Chevy Chevette rotting in the weeds somewhere, its rear axle might just be ready to go with no modifications.  IT may not be a DANA 70 or anything, but I bet it would hold up fine to my 27 PTO horsepower tractor in occasional winch use.

Next question, would a garden tractor rear end, hystat or other wise be able to do something similar?

Dave