Picked up the LT28 Today

[Qweaver]

We made the trip to Shade Gap to pickup the new LT28 today.  Marty spent a couple hours showing us how the machine should be operated.  I've just got to say that Marty really knows how these machines work and he's a great teacher.  
We got home about 6:00 pm and got the machine setup beside our log pile ready to start sawing early tomorrow morning.  This machine is a huge step-up from the LT15.  I'm anxious to get started and I'll know much more about the saw by Miller Time tomorrow.
Quinton

[Tom]

Now you've done it.

You're into big-time saw milling now. 

[P.A. RESHARP]

Congratulations  Qweaver        P.A.

[Magicman]

Congratulations.  I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of the "Easter Bunny" at work.....

Happy sawing......

[JBritt]

That's awesome, can't wait til I get a mill.

[Qweaver]

We sawed for 7 hours today and cut 1463 BdFt.  We also wasted at least an hour of that time getting everything organised.  We could have cut for another two hours but the 85 deg temps and sunny day took a toll on us old folks so we packed it in and popped a few cold Buds at 5:00 pm.
The saw ran great and I used the log turner a lot.  I love the toe boards.  I'm now firmly convinced that up grading from my LT15 was a good move.  The biggest log that we sawed was 26" dia and the turner handled it easily.  The turner is not always perfect but with one re-grasp it always worked.  I've sawed many logs with my trusty LT15 but for the large amount of sawing that I do, this is the saw that I should have had from the start.  I like it.
I have some pictures but the Gallery is off line so I will try later

[Busy Beaver Lumber]

Congrats on the new mill qweaver. Quite an impressive output for your first day on the new mill. I just picked up my new LT-10 this week and will be putting it together tomorrow. Already had a call today from a guy that heard I got the mill and wants me to cut up some walnut from his property to make a dining room table out of. Best of luck with the new machine.

Fred

[Wintergreen Mountain]

Congrats on the new mill.

LEON

[schakey]

Ok Qweaver if you want to pratice on some wp just come over to Wayne county
Wv

[gator gar]

Man..............Congratulations on that new mill. Mine will be ready and delivered on the 23rd of this month. I'm working a flange inspection turnaround, for the next 30 days straight. I told my wife that she was going to have to take the warranty walkthrough with the salesman and pick my mill up for me. I think she is a little intimidated with it, but she will do fine.

[Qweaver]

I do have a couple questions for other LT28 users.  When Marty was demonstrating the mill it jumped out of "gear" a few times.  He adjusted the actuator link to put a little more tension on the belt and that fixed it.  It started doing that again yesterday and I adjusted it some more and that worked again.  I'm just a little concerned that the belt tension would need to be adjusted two days in a row.  I'll take a closer look at this mechanism to see why this happens.  This saw head is very much the same as my LT15 and I never had this problem with it. 
Also, we sawed all day with one blade yesterday and it still looks and cuts OK.  I'm accustomed to being able to "feel" how the blade is cutting with the manual feed LT15.  So the power feed LT28 is a whole new thing for me.  We are going to re-saw/edge this morning and I will change the blade just to see the difference.
Quinton

[Jim_Rogers]

As you know, one way to tell whether or not your blade is dull is by looking at the lumber. Or course if it's wavy, it's dull.
And as you probably know, watch the blade as it leave the log, if it drops down it's dull and riding up and over the log, some. And if it raises up it's dull, most likely on one side, and it's diving.
Also, with a power feed mill, you can watch the feed rate knob. If you're sawing along at a feed rate that you like with a sharp blade on, look at the knob and see what position it is in. When you get sawing some and you notice that you can't turn the knob up to the point any more without the engine sounding like it's working harder to the lumber is wavy then the blade is dull.

Next, I have a tach on my mill engine to watch the rpm while sawing. You can use that to tell when the blade is dull, when you are at the same regular rpm speed and the feed rate knob isn't in the right spot (as it is with a sharp blade) the blade is dull.

Each machine takes some getting use to and you'll soon know when your blades are dull using this machine.

I think decided when my blade was dull was one of the hardest things for me to learn when I began sawing logs. I broke many a blade by going to far.... or sawing with it for too long.

I'm happy you're happy with your upgrade...

Jim Rogers

[timberjackrob]

qweaver,congrats on the lt28 ive had mine about 9 months,the first thing i replaced was the log turner winch with a 12v 2000lb winch.i bought a cheap one because i didnt know if it would work,about 80 bucks out of the northern catalog. it works great i have turned some very big logs with it.just ran a pigtail with a plug from the battery and put aplug on the other end going to the controller the controler handle even fits in the tube on the hitch so its easy to use.i have never had a problem with the mill staying in gear must be out of adjustment

[John S]

Quinton,
I am in the process of selling my LT-15 and upgrading to the LT-28 and am interested in your experience with it jumping out of gear.  I have not had any problems with the 15 and concerned that there might be a problem with the 28's.
John

[pineywoods]

Jim rogers mentioned installing a tachometer. This is something I highly recommend and it's cheep  cheep, $10. Buy yourself a cheap bicycle speedometer. Runs off and internal button battery, no mods to the mill whatso ever. Pickup is a small magnet glued to one of the bandwheels. (ductape?) Especially with the low horse power mills, a dull blade will show a noticeable drop in rpm.

[Jim_Rogers]

I got my tach from a Kohler engine dealer. But I believe WM now sells them. It works by wrapping the pick up wire around a spark plug wire and the other wire is a ground, battery inside, still working after years and years..... (now the thing will die because I mentioned it)....with my luck.....

Shows engine hours when engine is off....

[Qweaver]

Hey John,  The belt tension must have just been a little low because no further problem with it today.  I really like the saw.  We sawed another 1000 BdFt this morning.  I am having a little problem with the log turner trying to lift the far end of the log instead of turning it.  WM sells some rollers that will likely solve that problem.  I'm ordering them today.
BTW, I changed the blade after re-sawing this AM and I could not tell much difference between the used and the new.   Marty sawed at least part of a log checking out the saw, then we sawed one for the demo and then I sawed 1500 BdFt  and it was still sawing OK.

Quinton

[timberjackrob]

qweaver where do the rollers go how much do they cost? ihave trouble too uasually on the second turn the log wants to climb on top of the back supports. i think rollers may be what i need. do they go on top of the back supports like on the bigger mills

[MartyParsons]

The engine drive belts are made out of Kevlar fibers. It takes some time to get the Kevlar streached. In the manual it says check tension at the first 5 hours and then recheck or readjust at 50. ( I think the LT15 is 20 hours).
I have had LT28 owners call on this in the past and every time the drive belt tension solves the issue.
Hope this helps.
Marty
Support rollers 016652  $ 25.00 each
You can also purchase stainless steel covers for log supports to keep lumber stain low. 016798 kit all four for $ 45.00

[Burlkraft]

Congrats Q     

I love my 28. Sounds like you are pretty attached to yours too! 

[Chuck White]

Congratulations Qweaver, I'm sure you'll be busy with the new mill for years to come.

Jim posted a nice list of tips.  Some, I knew about and some I didn't.

My best tip for telling when a blade is getting dull is "Listen to your mill",
the obvious wavy cuts and zig-zag lines are easy, but again, listen to your mill!

I have a tach on order for my mill, it should be in tomorrow.

[Dave Shepard]

I've done business with this company a few times. I've run the Tiny Tachs on a bunch of things, and I have one of their tachometers for testing chainsaws.

[Wallys World]

I love mine also. My production rate is much better compared to our LT15. Sawed some white pine today.

[Qweaver]

The log turner is more of a problem than I first thought.  It often tends to start lifting the one end of the log about half way through the turn.  This is happening more often than not.  The optional rollers costs $25 plus shipping for each backstop that you put them on.  So probably $60 for two.  I'd order them if I knew this would fix the problem for sure.  How many of us are having this same problem?  If this option can be duplicated by just bolting a sealed bearing on the backstop, I'd try that.
Quinton

[Burlkraft]

I gotta admit that I have not used my log turner since I got my mill. I got a big 'ol Logrite that I use.
I thought about the rollers on the dogs and I was thinkin' of using a sealed bearing like a 205 or 305 DD myself.

I had a hard time rollin over them 35" white oak logs last week. I was wishin' I had gotten bearings and tried it. 

[wwsjr]

Qweaver,

The first mill I had was a LT40G28 with log deck package. I mounted a Warn 3800 winch in place of hand winch, used a battery on ground under mill, recharged overnight. I had same problem you are having with one end of log coming up before the other.  I believe not having the center of the weight of the log directly on the turner was my problem. Not necessarly the midpoint of log, but midpoint of weight. Just a thought. I am not sure the rollers are a lot of help. I have had rollers on all my mills.

[Magicman]

Sometimes a large or odd shaped cant/log is tough to turn, no matter how many rollers you have.  I often have to pull the bottom out with the log clamp and stuff like that.  Cant hooks never go out of style.....   They are your friends.....

[Qweaver]

I love my Logrite too, but when you are 65 with a broken back and a cranky hip, and your helpers are 68 and 76, well... that log turner starts looking better and better and one of the main reason that I bought this mill.

[Magicman]

but when you are 65 with a broken back and a cranky hip, and your helpers are 68 and 76   

For a second there, I thought that you were talking about me......but then I remembered that I am 66.....

[trapper]

Magicman  i am in your camp  66 also and back in 87 broke 2 vertbrae when i dumped my bike.  I am lucky they bother me very little.  My kids say they will just keep rebuilding me.  rods in my back plate in ankle and glass eye.  Also the doc told me  I didnt need the kneycap he took out when it was shadered.
I was thinking also about replacing the  manual winch on my lt30 with an electric.  Instead I use a half inch electric drill to run the winch.

[timberjackrob]

i usually have trouble after my first turn . the first turn works perfect when put the first flat side against the back supports. its when i make the second turn it starts to turn but wants to climb up on top of the back supports.i have found that if you have two people one can hold out on the turner as it comes up to keep it from striking the log to low and just raising it up instead of turning it. ive tried every adjustment on the turner but not much change.the eletric winch works great i only use the turner on large logs or long heavy logs the rest of the time i use the logritescant hooks . iwould use the turner more if it worked better.let me know if you get the rollers,im interested if they work.

[Magicman]

Maybe you need a "Magicman's Handy Dandy Log Turner Holder Outer".......
 


Rope with a hook on the end
 


Hook it to the turner and loop the rope over the loader (or something) and back to you.  Now you can hold the turner out and place it on the log in just the right spot......

[timberjackrob]

i knew there was a reason to login one more time before i went bed, thanks magicman.

[backwoods sawyer]

Magic you beet me to that one. I have the chain turner so that is not an issue with my mill, but the back supports do like to grab ahold of some of the larger logs, western red cedar can be problematic. I keep a couple 24” long pieces if steel pipe that slips over the back supports in the truck. Straight pipe can push the log to far over, so I heated them up and bent them back at about 15* angle so they slide all the way down on the back supports.

[Magicman]

I keep a couple 24” long pieces if steel pipe that slips over the back supports in the truck. Straight pipe can push the log to far over, so I heated them up and bent them back at about 15* angle so they slide all the way down on the back supports.

I like that idea.....      What size pipe?   Pop us a picture.

[Jim_Rogers]

Hook it to the turner and loop the rope over the loader (or something) and back to you.  Now you can hold the turner out and place it on the log in just the right spot......

I use a bungee strap and hook it to the chain on my log loader, then by adjusting the height of my log loader or the link on the chain it is hooked to, I can move the turner in or out a little.....so that it will hit the log in the correct spot to turn it. Sometimes the turner will go right under odd shaped logs, and you need to pull it back and up.....these are the things you have to do when you work alone.....

[MartyParsons]

The log support rollers work well. We have had many owners change to the kits and I get feed back with a thumbs up. Wood-Mizer had bearings on the first design kits and they always seem to be locked up. They now have a machined roller with a brass bushing. When servicing the mill I try to remove the roller and put never seize on the bushing.
Hope this helps.
Marty

[dovetails]

I use 3" PVC . Light weight,easy to spot it in the sawdust pile,and don't hurt your foot as bad as a metal pipe when you kick it!

[Qweaver]

Just another point on the LT28 as an upgrade from the LT15.  We resawed/edged today and I'd guess it to be twice as fast (or better) as on my LT15. 

[Dan_Shade]

really?  I thought they were basically the same machine, with a different frame.

[Qweaver]

My LT15 is a 2004 year model. The newer LT15 may have some of these also. I don't know.
Here is a list of things that the new LT28 do better or easier for me.
1. One central log clamp is fast and easy to use and it holds the boards for resaw well.
2. Power feed and return
3. Up/Down mechanism much easier and faster to operate.
4. Log turner works OK.  I'm having a little problem with it but way better that not having one.
5. Toe boards work great.
6. Cuts 21' logs without an extra bed extention.
7. Ramps and winch to load logs. I will not use this much.
8. 25HP standard.
9. Trailer mounted.
10. Able to cut and easily turn bigger logs
Also, I have never been able to cut and resaw 1400BdFt in one day on my LT15.  We did that the first day that we sawed with the LT28.
My LT15 did a great job for sawing logs to build my cabin and out buildings.  But we are now going to be sawing mainly as a business and the LT28 will make us much more profitable for that.

[Dan_Shade]

that makes sense.  I forgot how much my life improved when I got the toe rollers!

[Brucer]

Edging is a lot easier and more comfortable when the flitches are at waist height instead of knee height.

Qweaver, I've had problems with the end of the log lifting both on my original manual LT40 (similar turner to yours) and on my hydraulic mill. The difference with the hydraulic mill is that you can very quickly move the turner up and down to kind of inch the log around.