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Author Topic: Chokers and choker setting  (Read 4038 times)

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Offline treefarmer87

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Chokers and choker setting
« on: March 28, 2010, 07:27:31 pm »
im getting a new skidder in a few days a have never set chokers. (i feel kinda dumb asking this) im getting 5 with the machine, how many should i run for sawlogs? im getting a 230 TJ 353 detriot. how many logs can i pull? any tips or tricks? i just dont wanna start out blind and not know what im doing and have an accident, thanks for any helpful tips
Amazing wife
1987 chevy 7000
Prentice H knuckleboom with FEC sawbuck
1980's Treefarmer C6D
Sthil 460 racesaw
Husqvarna 455
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Offline forest.c

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2010, 07:38:51 pm »
depends on the size of your wood big wood you may only need 1 or2 small wood you may need as many as 10 or12 you will learn as you go.
forest.c

Offline nhlogga

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2010, 07:50:35 pm »
If the front feels light or the machine wants to do a wheelie than you got too big a hitch on the skidder. All you need is experience. good luck and congrats on the skidder purchase.
jonsered 2171's/clark 664c

Offline steveforest

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2010, 08:29:43 pm »
You could get some different lengths, so a small log will not drag when you have a large log choked on the same turn. Tractor envy :o
Don't mess with success

Offline 4genlgr

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2010, 08:37:58 pm »
my cousin has a 230 he runs with 8 cable chokers.   his 230 will pull all 8 loaded with 12-14 inch dia hardwood limbed on most terrain. and at the other end only a 32' of white pine close to 36" on the butt and thet may have been a factor of the total lenght of the tree and the wiggles in the twitch road
just experiment with the amount of trees you try to pull an dfind out what the skidder likes
one thing to watch out for is slopes espically when turning loaded sometimes the load can anchor you and others it will help you look like the JD in another thread TJ's are quite stable but any skidder will be very unstable  toward the side where the wheels are farthest apart when turning as you have narrowed the base. i know he carries the blade low and has used at times to put a back tire on the ground again

take it easy at first  you've run a tractor so you have some feel for what makes you nervous its different but the similar on a skidder

stay safe

Offline DirtForester

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2010, 08:39:10 pm »
Start with the 5 and get a feel for it.  I have seen double that on larger machines but I would see how the 5 work out for you.  As stated above, you are not going to be pulling 5 30 inch pine trees with that 230.   :)
If it's a good tree, grow it!
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Offline acl2

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2010, 08:47:37 pm »
we always run 5 chokers on our machines, if the timber is smaller you can double up in one choker to get a good trip. Are they cable or chain chokers you running?

Offline treefarmer87

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2010, 09:40:38 pm »
they are cable chokers. most of the trees i cut are 16"+ saw logs, poplar and oak i have 2 more tracts to cut after this- a 5 acre hardwood flat (trees no smaller than18") white and red oak and tulip poplar, and a 35 acre swampy creek bottom with similar size poplar and sycamore.
Amazing wife
1987 chevy 7000
Prentice H knuckleboom with FEC sawbuck
1980's Treefarmer C6D
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Offline DirtForester

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2010, 09:57:51 pm »
Given those conditions, I think 5 chokers will serve you well.
If it's a good tree, grow it!
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Offline treefarmer87

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2010, 10:32:27 pm »
yea me too ive been told by my friend to bring out 2 sawlog size trees @ a time
Amazing wife
1987 chevy 7000
Prentice H knuckleboom with FEC sawbuck
1980's Treefarmer C6D
Sthil 460 racesaw
Husqvarna 455
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Offline logloper

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #10 on: March 28, 2010, 10:41:33 pm »
I've set a few chokers. I like 1/2 inch x 8' chokers. Learning to set them correctly is more of a trick than takeing the drag to the landing. If I am running 5 chokers, than I will pull the bull line and 2 chokers to the 5th log away from the skidder. Then start setting chokers back from there.If it's a big log, set the choker back about 2' on the log. If it's smaller, then set the choker back a little further. Practice will show you where to hook it,so the logs all drag into the landing evenly. If your bells are slipping off when you suck the drag up,push the bell tight to the log and shove a small stick into the bell between the bell and the cable. This will wedge the two tight and will still fall out at the landing. Make sure that you winch the ends of the trees up off the ground and into the butt plate. If your trees are in this posistion,it's hard to tip over when turning tight. You will pull up on two or three wheels, but dont panic. Those trees are your kickstand. Drop your blade and pour the fuel to it. When you get to the landing, drop your winch , then immiediately pop your winch handle back up. This will keep your bull line from unwinding into a rats nest. Just feather it out. Anyway, goodluck. you will get it . It's not rocket science

Offline barbender

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #11 on: March 28, 2010, 10:44:54 pm »
I was pulling some 24" butt red oak, 2 of those with the pettibone was plenty. If I was cutting wood that big all the time I would probably run just 2 or 3 chokers, the size wood you describe I would probably run 5 as others suggested. It depends wether you are thinning or clearcutting too. I find if I'm thinning or cleaning up firewood trees, etc., I rarely pull a full hitch just because I end up fighting everything trying to get every choker filled up. If I'm cutting popple and I can back up to a nice bunch of trees, hook em up and go, then I like to make the machine pulleverything it can. My 2 cents
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Offline treefarmer87

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #12 on: March 28, 2010, 11:18:36 pm »
thanks for the helpful info and tips guys ;)
Amazing wife
1987 chevy 7000
Prentice H knuckleboom with FEC sawbuck
1980's Treefarmer C6D
Sthil 460 racesaw
Husqvarna 455
Sthil 360

Offline John Woodworth

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #13 on: March 28, 2010, 11:48:36 pm »
Personaly I run 4 12' 9/16 cacbl chokers on 5/8 mainline and can get all the wood in the world, you can push up your turns or bonus the choker loads easier than trying to fight a rats nest, the machine will only pull so much, learn to bonus your turns and most important what your machine will pull. The most I've ever run was 6 on a 740 JD with 3/4 mainline, not so bad setting the chokers but comes time to unhook some always seem to be buried.
Two Garret 21 skidders, Garret 10 skidder, 580 Case Backhoe, Mobile Dimension sawmill, 066, 046 mag, 044, 036mag, 034, 056 mag, 075, 026

Offline captain_crunch

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #14 on: March 28, 2010, 11:53:06 pm »
Just remember to always have the choker closest to winch hooked to a log or it will come over Fairlead first and wind around drum before others get there and this teaches you new words before you get it corrected
M-14 Belsaw circle mill,HD-11 Log Loader,TD-14 Crawler,TD-9 Crawler and Ford 2910 Loader Tractor

Offline tlandrum

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #15 on: March 29, 2010, 12:07:04 am »
i run 3/4 swedged mainline and 8ft 9/16 chokers. usually 5 at a time   double and triple up if the trees are small. my skidder will haul a load with its 190hp cummins. i never could get used to little skidders like the 230. i have always had to pull long drags and needed all the wood i could get on each hitch to make out and hauling back three trees instaed of 5 or 6 dont pay the bills.
when all else fails dig in and just work harder

Offline Bobus2003

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #16 on: March 29, 2010, 12:28:39 am »
I run 8 5/8" chokers, I can pull all 8 chokers hooked with 2-3 trees each.  (9-12" butt trees) If i get into bigger timber its one tree to a choker and in smaller wood i may have 8-10 trees in a choker.. you will learn as you go.. i have many many times had more than i can pull hooked up so i pull forward and winch to me, and repeat
Late 60's JD440, '94 JD550G, '94 Case 1845, '00 Link Belt w/'01 Patu 410SH Harvester Head, '99 Morbark 2090D, 2 - Stihl MS440

Offline timberjackrob

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #17 on: March 29, 2010, 12:50:18 am »
i run two on my 208 sometimes i could use three but we cut mostly 20 to 36 inch trees at the butt all hardwood. like everybody said it depends on size of trees terrain, etc. my 208 has a 353 with a hercules winch probably the same as your 230.sometimes its best to take it easy on older equipment,if you dont have a 100,000 dollar skidder to pay for why push it to its limit every drag.remember the old detroits are a two stroke diesel and only produce power at high rpms. an old logger once told me the first thing you need to do to run a detroit is slam your hand in the door and take it out on the motor
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Offline treefarmer87

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #18 on: March 29, 2010, 10:19:47 am »
i agree with you timberjackrob when i get the skidder im not gonna be in a big hurry anyway ill be pulling out close to half a load at a time. im only lookin to take 2 loads a day, im not goning to strain the skidder, its in good condition and i want it to stay that way. captain crunch just helped me with something i was wondering,i was wonderin about sucking a choker up with the mainline, watching what im doin will help too.
Amazing wife
1987 chevy 7000
Prentice H knuckleboom with FEC sawbuck
1980's Treefarmer C6D
Sthil 460 racesaw
Husqvarna 455
Sthil 360

Offline mad murdock

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #19 on: March 29, 2010, 12:44:51 pm »
I agree with John W.  Adjust the number of chokers to the wood you are pulling.  It is easier to hook/unhooke fewer chokers, than to have to deal with a rats nest every turn.  When you bonus your load, i.e. grab 2 trees with one choker, use your blade as you set up for the next load by pushing trees together, etc. or drag one tree winch up to another one, and grab add it to your load, etc.  I run 2 chokers on my Garrett, because most of the time I pull tree length, even with 40 footers, if they are bigger than 18" that is plenty for one drag.  When I ran a clark 666 in N. Wisc. it had 8 chokers, and I would load them all up, but that was alot of smaller wood, poplar and birch.  I would drag 30 cords a day with that machine.
Having had experience with lots of chokers vs a few, I like running with fewer, as said before, it is a pain to wrestle logs at the landing to try to get to all the chokers to unhook them.  Running 2 chokers pulling mostly Doug fir, I have 8' chokers, but every once in a while I wish I had a 12' er for those big logs, but I get around it by doubling up my chokers when I really need more length.  Bailey's has pretty fair prices on chokers, if you don't have a rigger close by, and you don't have to go anywhere to order them.  Good luck with the new toy.
'64 Garrett 15A, Granberg Alaskan III, Husky 372XP, McCulloch 10-10 auto, Poulan wild thing, Stihl 075, Mac 10-10A(RHP), Homlite 360, '71 Int'l 1110 Plus more toys

Offline treefarmer87

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #20 on: March 29, 2010, 12:50:15 pm »
there is a guy right up the road but he wants $20 a piece for 6 ft chokers. i would go to balieys first, they are like $16 there, i dont plan on pulling more than 2 or 3 per turn, i agree about the rats nest. thanks for the good advice
Amazing wife
1987 chevy 7000
Prentice H knuckleboom with FEC sawbuck
1980's Treefarmer C6D
Sthil 460 racesaw
Husqvarna 455
Sthil 360

Offline Maine372

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #21 on: March 29, 2010, 05:14:04 pm »
attach a short peice of chain to the arch and a slider on the main line. let that slider run between the winch and arch and it will keep other sliders from getting wound up in the winch. this way you can start with the choker on the end and not worry.

you can cut keyhole shaped holes in the fenders to attach the unused chokers too. this will keep them from getting caught up in the hitch. there have been alot of variations on this theme. get creative. some people just let the drag around. i always have preferd to have them tucked out of the way.

when youre on steep ground keep the blade low, but also keep the hitch low, especially on side slopes. pulling the wood up tight against the top of the arch makes the machine top heavy. keep the wood down between the cheeks. usually just as the first slider crests over the roller is a good place to stop.

use your eves alot and if things hang up get out and look. you cant see as much from the skidder seat as you can from standing by the winch on your tractor. the extra minute it takes to get out and look costs alot less money than the repairs.

Offline treefarmer87

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #22 on: March 29, 2010, 06:00:07 pm »
yea your right, im always watching ahead and behind me, im always safe. i have seen people
hanging the chokers on holes on the fenders of the skidder
Amazing wife
1987 chevy 7000
Prentice H knuckleboom with FEC sawbuck
1980's Treefarmer C6D
Sthil 460 racesaw
Husqvarna 455
Sthil 360

Offline Stephen Alford

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #23 on: March 29, 2010, 06:27:22 pm »
   Hey TF/TJ . Congrats on the skidder. Lots of good advice on chocking,probably worth a second read. I sleep better at nignts knowing that I have a kill switch out of site and not easily found. You probably have one on the fuel but check to see what the status is of the kill switch on the air intake side. If its there but not hooked up probably a good idea to get it back on line. Have shoved that hard with  that ol treefarmer that she has flipped. Shutting the engine down pronto will save you some grief.  A small branch went through the screen and triggered that air intake switch onetime . Spent a day lugging batteries and wrenches. Finally gave up and recriuted older and wiser. Offered him lunch. He walked around the machine hit the switch then the starter ,she didn't role twice and was runnin, then he informed me he wanted steak. I had crow. :-[  Good Luck.
logon

Offline logloper

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #24 on: March 29, 2010, 07:21:25 pm »
I also suck my drag up to where the bells just go over the roller, as above member stated. Keeps drag/skidder stable and also makes the last 2' of bull line last longer. If you don't want to cut keyholes in your fender, weld an old bell or two on the side of your arch. I like 1 on each side of the arch. Hook the ferel of the unused choker closest to your drag into this bell, and it will keep your unused chokers untangled. When you get to your next tree, drop your drag and pull forward a bit.Then your unused chokers are ready to go.

Offline mad murdock

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #25 on: March 29, 2010, 07:49:31 pm »
good point on the hidden switch!  If you are logging in any area that is open to general public, someone, somewhere, sometime will find your job, and mess with your equipment.  They even get behind locked gates and mess with helicopters.  We have hidden switches that completely disable the starting circuit on the helicopters, unless you have the correct switches in the correct positions, it will not start.  The company I work for had a helicopter torched to the ground about 20 years ago down in Lane Co. Ore. (epicenter of alot of the enviro crazies).   Even in N. WI, we had fuel stolen from time to time, and once had the fan belts cut on one of our machines by some vandals.   I don't know how bad the meth problems are in the east, but out here the tweakers are constantly on the prowl looking for anything they can steal and sell for scrap, especially anything copper. 
'64 Garrett 15A, Granberg Alaskan III, Husky 372XP, McCulloch 10-10 auto, Poulan wild thing, Stihl 075, Mac 10-10A(RHP), Homlite 360, '71 Int'l 1110 Plus more toys

Offline treefarmer87

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #26 on: March 29, 2010, 09:40:24 pm »
people around here would rather take your equipment joyriding or take fuel mostly thanks for the wonderful tip because i dont want anyone fooling with my equipment. i was just thinking about that today i am so glad to have this helpful site and people, thanks guys :) 
Amazing wife
1987 chevy 7000
Prentice H knuckleboom with FEC sawbuck
1980's Treefarmer C6D
Sthil 460 racesaw
Husqvarna 455
Sthil 360

Offline John Woodworth

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #27 on: March 29, 2010, 11:21:28 pm »
Treefarmer don't wast your moner on 6' chockers they are too short, I've even found 8' too short, if you want to be able to bonus up your turns, 12 footers, 10 at the least.
Two Garret 21 skidders, Garret 10 skidder, 580 Case Backhoe, Mobile Dimension sawmill, 066, 046 mag, 044, 036mag, 034, 056 mag, 075, 026

Offline Emajsh

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #28 on: March 29, 2010, 11:57:24 pm »
they also make a short cable extention, 18 inches or maybe 2 feet, i keep one in the skidder just in case you get in a situation where your choker is not quite long enought to make it all the way around the log.didnt see it mentioned anywhere so i thought i would. good luck and safe logging
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Offline treefarmer87

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #29 on: March 30, 2010, 05:08:14 pm »
 i cant win! the man who owns the equipment company sold the TJ to someone else! after i told him i would have them money tomorrow, he said he would hold it for me and call them back and tell them it was sold, allthey did was put a down payment  on it yesterday. ill go check on this 1966 treefarmer with a new 353 motor, i guess.
Amazing wife
1987 chevy 7000
Prentice H knuckleboom with FEC sawbuck
1980's Treefarmer C6D
Sthil 460 racesaw
Husqvarna 455
Sthil 360

Offline poor farmer/logger

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #30 on: March 30, 2010, 11:52:47 pm »
I've had as many as 14 trees on our 664 Clark. They were the 10-15" and roughly 50' long. That was in good conditions though. Usually in big white spruce we're pulling 3-5 trees. Sometimes only two if they're big enough. Had 7 on once this spring but it was a bit of a stretch for it at times. We've got 5 chokers on there right now. One thing someone mentioned to give er while you're turning. Bad idea. Keep the speed down make wide turns and if you can't swing wide drop the skid pull ahead and winch it around. Just make sure you're not winching at to much of a angle on your fairlead as you can pull the skidder right over. Turning sharp with a full skid on though is very hard on equipment. It's putting a unreal amount of strain on the inside side of the back diff. When working with old equipment treat it with respect and it'll treat you the same. Same goes for the new stuff too of course.

Ryan

Offline Bobus2003

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #31 on: March 31, 2010, 01:05:58 am »
people around here would rather take your equipment joyriding or take fuel mostly thanks for the wonderful tip because i dont want anyone fooling with my equipment. i was just thinking about that today i am so glad to have this helpful site and people, thanks guys :) 

Here in the last 2 months there have been 2 skidders, a Timbco, Boom Delimber and a Log Truck Stolen from out in the woods.. Its not hard to do. Go to JD and get a key and you can start any JD tractor that had that key series and alot of the equipment out here is unlocked with the keys left in them :-\. I have 6 padlocks on my dozer (Hood, Fuel, Hyd Oil, Oil Valve/Filter compartment, Dash, Master Switch) Lock up the Processor Door and hood, Skidder has a Master switch with the Knob unscrewed and in my pocket, plus aftermarket ignition.

Back in 2000 my dad was doin work for a guy and the neighbors didn't like what was being done(too many trees being removed) and they poured sand in the engine oil of the 440 and Skid steer.. Sadly enough didn't catch it quick enough and took out the skidder engine (Thats why she's got the 4045T) we did a oil change on the skid steer ASAP but had the engine go on that about a month later so i'm guessing we still had sand in there..

You hear of guys equipment missing in the morning, but generally found down the road out of fuel or stuck somewhere, fuel tanks will be empty, bulk tanks stolen.. The stuff people do to get there kicks
Late 60's JD440, '94 JD550G, '94 Case 1845, '00 Link Belt w/'01 Patu 410SH Harvester Head, '99 Morbark 2090D, 2 - Stihl MS440

Offline treefarmer87

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #32 on: April 01, 2010, 08:03:50 pm »
i found a treefarmer in almost new cond. going to get it tomorrow- the guy showed me where the cut off switch is on it. that is gonna be handy and make me feel better when its on this new tract.
Amazing wife
1987 chevy 7000
Prentice H knuckleboom with FEC sawbuck
1980's Treefarmer C6D
Sthil 460 racesaw
Husqvarna 455
Sthil 360

Offline captain_crunch

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #33 on: April 08, 2010, 02:32:15 pm »
Old logger trick with sliders if choker is not long enough put nubbin of choker in next slider and use winch line to add length Or use 2 chokers and bridle log. Last weeks Ax men had a great view of a bridled log when Rygard had the Big log on landing
M-14 Belsaw circle mill,HD-11 Log Loader,TD-14 Crawler,TD-9 Crawler and Ford 2910 Loader Tractor

Offline leeivan1956

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #34 on: April 10, 2010, 10:12:53 pm »
eh eh  Its been 25 yrs idrove TJ 207-208-217-230 in N.S. we was running 5 foot chokers with 125 foot 5/8 main line with 12-13 chokers most times was full.actually I have a plastic model of a 230 TJ about 15inchs long  brings back many memories  eh eh

Online Corley5

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #35 on: April 10, 2010, 10:35:18 pm »
I hate pulling cable and setting chokers.
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Offline timberjackrob

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #36 on: April 10, 2010, 11:51:07 pm »
me too corley5 but palin nugent 2012 i like
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Offline Maine372

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #37 on: April 11, 2010, 09:31:48 am »
alot of guys around here will make the last slider away from the machine a key hole. it can be turned so the loop end is out and hooked over the tow hook on a truck, or you can use it with a chain to make as long a choker as you need.

Offline quietrangr

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #38 on: April 11, 2010, 11:51:38 am »
I have locking lug nuts (from any parts store) holding my engine covers, grill, fuel tanks, and hydraulic tank, also a cover over my gauges held by a locking lug nut. (These are ordinary lug nuts with an opening you can only open with a special piece that comes with the lug nuts.) You would also have to weld a pipe around the locking lug nut so it can't be loosened with a vice grip. I had to weld 7/16 fine thread bolts on the machine to accept the lug nuts, or sometimes had to weld the lug nuts onto a bolt where the threads on the machine were female. (Oh, I forgot I'm not supposed to talk about sex on this board.) I've never had anybody break in to my machine since I put these on, though of course they could go and buy the same type of locking lug nut I bought, and then get in. Most thieves are not that determined.

Offline barbender

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Re: Chokers and choker setting
« Reply #39 on: April 12, 2010, 06:53:15 pm »
I hate setting chokers too, especially when thinning. I'd like to build a grapple for my little machine.
I just want to run my mill

 


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