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Author Topic: grinder angle  (Read 921 times)

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Offline justintimemoto

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grinder angle
« on: March 19, 2010, 07:57:50 pm »
just curious to see what everyone uses ror angles on there grinders ? thanks
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Offline braucher

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2010, 08:45:23 pm »
I have a Stihl & run it at 30 degrees

Offline Kevin

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2010, 09:43:23 pm »
I grind and file to manufactured specs.

Offline Bruce Hopf

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2010, 09:46:28 am »
I too have my angles ground at 30 degrees. Bruce.
McCulloch
1-Pro Mac 60, 1-Pro Mac 700, 2-Mac 10-10 automatic's, 2-Mini Mac 30's, 2-Mac 110's, 2-Mini Mac 35's, 1-Mac 140 with Automatic chain sharpener, 1-Pro Mac 10-10, 2-Eagar Beaver 2.0's, 1-Mac 1-10
Stihl
2-044's, 2-034,s 2-024's, 1-064, 1-084
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Offline John Mc

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2010, 11:03:07 am »
I file my chisel chains at 25 degrees, semi-chisel at 30 (hand filing). Can't remember why I do them that way, unless I picked it up from the label on a box or something.
Small time fire-wooder in a neighborhood cooperative.

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline jteneyck

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2010, 09:48:03 pm »
I'm sure you will get a hundred different responses on this, and many will think what they do is best.  I fooled around quite a bit with different angles, but with crosscut chains I ended up back with what the manufacturer printed on the box as pretty much the best setup for cutting efficiency and longevity between sharpenings.  I've pretty much settled on Oregon ripping chains as the best for my needs.  With them, I stay with Oregon's recommendations on angles most of the time; however, I do lower the cutting angle from 10 to 5 degrees when I want super smooth cuts in a really nice log.  IMO sharp is the most important thing - angles secondary. 

Offline Bruce Hopf

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2010, 09:53:12 pm »
I'm sure you will get a hundred different responses on this, and many will think what they do is best.  I fooled around quite a bit with different angles, but with crosscut chains I ended up back with what the manufacturer printed on the box as pretty much the best setup for cutting efficiency and longevity between sharpenings.  I've pretty much settled on Oregon ripping chains as the best for my needs.  With them, I stay with Oregon's recommendations on angles most of the time; however, I do go lower the cutting angle from 10 to 5 degrees when I want super smooth cuts in a really nice log.  IMO sharp is the most important thing - angles secondary. 
I have to agree with you, about a chain being sharp, not to let them get too dull either between sharpening the chain again, and then worry about the angles. Bruce
McCulloch
1-Pro Mac 60, 1-Pro Mac 700, 2-Mac 10-10 automatic's, 2-Mini Mac 30's, 2-Mac 110's, 2-Mini Mac 35's, 1-Mac 140 with Automatic chain sharpener, 1-Pro Mac 10-10, 2-Eagar Beaver 2.0's, 1-Mac 1-10
Stihl
2-044's, 2-034,s 2-024's, 1-064, 1-084
Strunk
1-Busy Beaver, 1-SpeeDemon Special

Offline ladylake

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2010, 05:53:25 am »
Mines been at 30 for years most new chains are, I think the tilt is at 60.  Steve
Timberking B20   Case75xt   770 Oliver   Lots of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader    2  trailers  Wright sharpener     Dino setter

Offline Bruce Hopf

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2010, 05:56:08 am »
Mines been at 30 for years most new chains are, I think the tilt is at 60.  Steve
You are right, about the tilt being 60 degrees. That is what I have the power head set at, for the bench grinder. Bruce.
McCulloch
1-Pro Mac 60, 1-Pro Mac 700, 2-Mac 10-10 automatic's, 2-Mini Mac 30's, 2-Mac 110's, 2-Mini Mac 35's, 1-Mac 140 with Automatic chain sharpener, 1-Pro Mac 10-10, 2-Eagar Beaver 2.0's, 1-Mac 1-10
Stihl
2-044's, 2-034,s 2-024's, 1-064, 1-084
Strunk
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Offline John Mc

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2010, 07:47:50 am »
I have to agree with you, about a chain being sharp, not to let them get too dull either between sharpening the chain again, and then worry about the angles. Bruce

I agree. Someone once told me: "You don't sharpen a chain because it got dull. You sharpen it to keep it from getting dull."  A fine distinction, but what he was getting at is that an awful lot of people push things too far before sharpening. I get a lot better results, with a lot less wear and tear (on me and on the chainsaw), by keeping that in mind and stopping to sharpen "before it gets dull".

John
Small time fire-wooder in a neighborhood cooperative.

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline Bruce Hopf

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2010, 08:01:33 am »
I have to agree with you, about a chain being sharp, not to let them get too dull either between sharpening the chain again, and then worry about the angles. Bruce

I agree. Someone once told me: "You don't sharpen a chain because it got dull. You sharpen it to keep it from getting dull."  A fine distinction, but what he was getting at is that an awful lot of people push things too far before sharpening. I get a lot better results, with a lot less wear and tear (on me and on the chainsaw), by keeping that in mind and stopping to sharpen "before it gets dull".

John
Once one of my chains starts to feel dull, and not throwing nice sized chaip, I replace it with a sharp one, and sharpen the chain after with the bench grinder. I carry at least 3 chains per chain saw, tow for my bigger two. Bruce.
McCulloch
1-Pro Mac 60, 1-Pro Mac 700, 2-Mac 10-10 automatic's, 2-Mini Mac 30's, 2-Mac 110's, 2-Mini Mac 35's, 1-Mac 140 with Automatic chain sharpener, 1-Pro Mac 10-10, 2-Eagar Beaver 2.0's, 1-Mac 1-10
Stihl
2-044's, 2-034,s 2-024's, 1-064, 1-084
Strunk
1-Busy Beaver, 1-SpeeDemon Special

Offline John Mc

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2010, 03:02:46 pm »
Once one of my chains starts to feel dull, and not throwing nice sized chaip, I replace it with a sharp one, and sharpen the chain after with the bench grinder. I carry at least 3 chains per chain saw, tow for my bigger two. Bruce.

If I were doing this professionally, or at least on a more regular basis, I'd probably be swapping chains like you do. I do usually have a spare with me (at least a spare chain, if not a whole spare saw). But since I'm generally not in good enough shape to keep up the cutting non-stop, I welcome the excuse for a break. (Usually, it's not till the end of my cutting season that I'm shape for a lot of this.)  Stopping to hand-sharpen forces me to slow down and take stock of how I'm doing. Otherwise, I tend to get caught up and not realize I'm getting tired/dehydrated/hungry until I've pushed things too far.

John Mc
Small time fire-wooder in a neighborhood cooperative.

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline Bruce Hopf

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Re: grinder angle
« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2010, 03:42:41 pm »
Once one of my chains starts to feel dull, and not throwing nice sized chaip, I replace it with a sharp one, and sharpen the chain after with the bench grinder. I carry at least 3 chains per chain saw, tow for my bigger two. Bruce.

If I were doing this professionally, or at least on a more regular basis, I'd probably be swapping chains like you do. I do usually have a spare with me (at least a spare chain, if not a whole spare saw). But since I'm generally not in good enough shape to keep up the cutting non-stop, I welcome the excuse for a break. (Usually, it's not till the end of my cutting season that I'm shape for a lot of this.)  Stopping to hand-sharpen forces me to slow down and take stock of how I'm doing. Otherwise, I tend to get caught up and not realize I'm getting tired/dehydrated/hungry until I've pushed things too far.

John Mc
Your one of the lucky ones. I can't had file a chain to save my own life. LOL. I used to cut fire wood for farmers, when I was 22 years younger. I had two chain saws, and I had 6 chains for each chain saw. One had two bars, so there was an extra 3 for it.
Up until 8 years ago, I always used a Filing guide from Oregon, one that clamps on to the guide bar. It would take me an hour to do 4 chains, and depending on how many chains a I went trough, I'd be at it for a couple of hour, if not more a night.
Now I can do 8 chains in an hour, with the bench grinder. You couldn't give me a file now, to sharpen my chains with.
I only cut my own fire wood to heat my house with, and sell the odd cord of fire wood, plus I sharpen the odd chain on the side. I too have my share of health problems, a wrecked back for one. I know what you are saying about taking breaks, in between, and pacing yourself. Bruce.
McCulloch
1-Pro Mac 60, 1-Pro Mac 700, 2-Mac 10-10 automatic's, 2-Mini Mac 30's, 2-Mac 110's, 2-Mini Mac 35's, 1-Mac 140 with Automatic chain sharpener, 1-Pro Mac 10-10, 2-Eagar Beaver 2.0's, 1-Mac 1-10
Stihl
2-044's, 2-034,s 2-024's, 1-064, 1-084
Strunk
1-Busy Beaver, 1-SpeeDemon Special

 

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