Used 660, Whats with the 25" bar? Balance recommendations?

[Doug_D]

I just picked up a almost new 660 for $400.  Owner bought it for clean up after a big storm we had last year.  Thank goodness the wife was shopping in his area and I was the first one to call.  Every now and then you can find a deal on craigslist. 

Anyways, onto my real question.  It came with a 25" bar.  This seems like an odd size and would rather move to something like a 24, 26 or 28.  I don't want to jack with the balance too much.  Any recommendations from 660 owners?  Or should keep the 25"?

Thanks,
Doug

[chevytaHOE5674]

Does the bar take 84dl's on the chain? If so it is the "standard" 25" stihl bar and the same as other brands 24" bars.

I run anywhere from a 20 to a 32" bar on my 660 depending on what I feel like cutting.

[Cut4fun]

My stihl ES 25" bars are really 24". 84 drive link.    Just like my stihl 21" ES bars are really 20".  Why they do that I am clueless.

[Al_Smith]

That's just Stihl being Stihl, they can't help themselves .

[Doug_D]

Ahhh....good to know.  Really looking forward to using this new saw :-) 

[JohnG28]

Sounds like you got one seriously good deal on that saw, way to go.

[Doug_D]

I thought it was a pretty good deal too.  When I first saw it I thought it was just another spam ad on craigslist.  Turned out it was the real deal.  Had the wife go pick it up as she was closer than I at the time.  I told her to just make sure it starts and says 660 on it.  Guy was real nice.  Just not using it.

Just used it to to cut some black walnut, poplar and red oak....had to see what it can do.  I have a feeling the old 290 will be going up for sale soon 

[JohnG28]

Id imagine thats a huge step up...no need to sell the old 290 though, always room for an extra saw.

[chevytaHOE5674]

If you only have the 660 and the 290 then I would keep both. The 660 will get awfully heavy cutting small trees and such.

[Rocky_J]

The 660 is a wonderful 'big' saw, but it would seriously suck as your 'only' saw. I own about a dozen saws and my biggest (and least used) is the same size as the 660. But I'm real glad to have it when I need it! 

[HolmenTree]

When I run 3/8 chain on my 066 the perfect balance for me is with a ES 28" bar.
 But I mostly these days run a .404 on it with a 24/25" bar ,same balance as the 3/8- 28".
The new 395XP sports the 32" b/c, the 066 is now basically in semi-retirement
Willard.

[windthrown]

I just do not understand this balance thing with bar lengths on saws. Maybe its a west coast thing, but that is not what I was ever taught to run a saw with or for (that a saw should be 'balanced' by the bar when lugging it around by the top handle). With a 660, I always ran a 28 and a 32 inch bar on it. Use a bar length to match what you are cutting and the saw you are cutting with. In the cut, balancing the saw with a bar for weight distribution means nothing. Balancing for tree size, torque and chain speed? OK, now you are taking. To me a 25" 3/8 inch bar (same as a 24 inch, just a name) is a waste of torque on a 660. Maybe in iron wood? Or if you are racing with timed cuts or something. Around here 660s are for cutting and bucking big trees and logs. Big trees require big bars.

Great price on that saw. Great saw too. Good to match with a 360/361 or a 440/441. I would get a 28 inch bar for it, minimum.

[timber tramp]

>>I just do not understand this balance thing with bar lengths on saws. Maybe its a west coast thing


    I'm with Windthrown on this one. Why're you spending so much time carring your saw by the handlebar? If you've got to cover ground, put it on yer shoulder. Then again, like the man said "Maybe it's a West Coast thing".            TT

[windthrown]

A west coast long bar high five! 

[Rocky_J]

Gotta hold it with two hands when cutting anyway. I'm much more concerned with how well the saw works in the cut rather than how 'balanced' it feels while holding it in the garage.

[HolmenTree]

Well folks limb and block up big hardwood for 8 hrs and you'll appreciate the "balance thing"
Willard

[HolmenTree]

Well folks limb and block up big hardwood for 8 hrs and you'll appreciate the "balance thing"
Willard

When I talk about saw balance I'm talking about both hands on the saw and working with it. A saw mechanic would say "balance is measured while holding just the top handle."
Willard.

[timber tramp]

  >>When I talk about saw balance I'm talking about both hands on the saw and working with it. A saw mechanic would say "balance is measured while holding just the top handle."


  Gotcha, that makes some sense to me.


  >>Well folks limb and block up big hardwood for 8 hrs and you'll appreciate the "balance thing"


  Fall, limb and buck big (30"+) conifers for 6 or 7 hours, on 40-70% ground and you'll appreciate the extra 8-12" of reach. Probably just a regional thing.          TT

[windthrown]

Yah, reach... limbing you are better off with a longer bar (on just about any saw, IMO), and so what if it hangs down. Its mostly cutting at 60 to 90 degrees anyway. Not that I limb with a 660. I typically use the smallest saw that I can get away with. Usually the 260 or 361 is the saw for limbing, walking the downed tree or hopping through the brush and trash along with topping trees. I use them for thinning as well. Falling and bucking the big stuff? Get out the 044 or the 066. Of course, that also requires a longer bar. 

But that seems to be the case only here in the PNW, where we suffer from long bar disease. Elsewhere it seems like some other kind of logging goes on. Here is a demonstartion of the correct use for a long bar on a saw in Oregon (notice the bar sag as he is carrying and cutting with it):

[Rocky_J]

For limbing I'll be running something a heck of a lot smaller than a 660. I don't need 95cc of motor for that. I'll move a lot faster with a saw sized to the job, then pick up the bigger saw for the bigger cuts. It's actually much faster to use two saws for that kind of cutting. Run the 660 on cuts over 20" or so and a limbing saw for all the smaller stuff.