skidding method without tongs - what is this?

[rebocardo]

Hi,

To load logs into the back of my truck, which has a bed about 34-36 inches off the ground, I usually attach a lag/short 3/8 chain/ring and winch in with the in-the-bed winch. I have a short ramp to help.

The Home Depot eyebolts and lags have not been working because after a while they snap because they are low quality. They snap when I attemp to remove them from the log. It is not losing the bolt I really worry about, but, losing track of it and then hitting it with a saw later. So, I have to mark each one with paint and cut it out later, a real pain.

I saw these at a local Husky/chainsaw dealer and I thought I would give them a try. They certainly look sturdy enough and probably a lot stronger than the sub-grade2 stuff at Home Depot. After trying to screw them into logs, I take it they are not real wood screw type of lags.

Since I found them at a chainsaw/arborist store, I have to ask, what are they used for in logging. Do I have to drill a hole and then screw them in? Thanks in advance.

http://www.forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/index.php?image=hook.jpg

[Kevin]

That's a j hook for cabling two leaders together.
It should just drive in, why wouldn't you just choke the log with a chain?

[rebocardo]

I have a "particular" set of requirements since I do all my stuff in an urban setting, alone. I will post the "routine" in case someone has a better way.

The chain is pretty destructive on everything it is dragged over, including the bed and the ramp. Going across concrete or hot top with 400-600 pounds of log and 3/8 chain makes a mess.

Going up the ramp or through the mud (because of the high angle) it does not want to stay on the bottom. Especially the larger pieces. Then the log either flips or goes sideways. I have used the 3/8 chain for moving very big (31 inch dia.) pieces into my truck, but, the chain is awkward and destructive compared with using lags.

Most of the time, to lift or roll a log to fit a chain around it, especially in slippery GA mud, is not worth it. Especially if I am working on an incline. Though I have been thinking about the cant hook/timberjack things since my breaker bar does not hack it moving logs.

The other thing is cost and weight. If I kept enough chain for each log (6-8 feet), I would end up with another 50 feet of chain. It takes me 45 minutes to load my truck in the morning with my tools. Lugging some more chain out, besides what I already have, is something to avoid since those 5 gallon buckets get heavy

A lot of the time I line up all the wood I am taking at the end of the day and then shuttle back and forth getting it with all my tools put away. I would feel uneasy leaving $200+ worth of chain laying around near a sidewalk where anyone could get it. If the tree is on the street, I usually cut my logs large so noone can load it onto their truck/car without extra mechanical or human help.

Losing a few logs and lags will not hurt as bad as losing my chains to anyone that can roll a log. If you know what I mean.

[Stephen_Wiley]

Rebocardo,

I will confirm what Kevin has said; that you pic is a "J" hook. These are made with both right and left hand threads to be used opposite in cabling procedures for live trees.

If your logs are no more than or 700 lbs.  have you thought of developing or purchasing a used cemetary trailer?

The trailers are used to off load ( or load) concrete liners from flat beds. Since these trailers are used on manicured lawns they are already equipped with flotation tires to minimize ground compaction.

[Kevin]

Ok, I see your problem and it's a common one in  an urban setting.
You definately should have a canthook.
Something else to consider would be rollers (pieces of pipe), they work good on a solid driveway.
Hand operated log arches with fat tires for low impact on lawns.

[AndyB]

Kevin:

Who is the mfr. of the arch skidder in the picture you posted? Or, did you fabricate it yourself?  Thanks for any info.

[Kevin]

Future Forestry.
http://www.futureforestry.com/