E-Classic Sevice recommendation notice

[ral]

I received my valve yesterday, I also thought it would help get the unit back to temp. faster if it was under to much stress. I read in the notes to keep the temp. at least 185-F. I run mine there but are they recommending a higher temp., does anyone here run there's higher? Not sure that I want to run the pump all the time in the summer either. But I suppose if the valve they sent works it should just circulate back to the unit. I don't want my air cond. coil in our forced air cooling the wood boiler water! Are those valves they sent that tight where some doesn't leak by, I have never used one before? I was aware they monitored these blogs from some of the questions I have received. There is a lot of good information here, what a better work force to hire then the people that use these units everyday. I still wish they would come out and at least drill the holes I need, I haven't asked yet. I have an older model which started out with all the fire bricks, up the walls and everything but I really haven't had the trouble like a lot of others have had. I did check out my air tubes in back and the one did have creosote build up in it. Are the drain holes they want drilled to help fix that problem or is that a whole other issue? One of the other things I had happen is the skin on the reaction chamber door is all warped, I think it is really to thin. I did notice on mine that no matter the temp. all the wood would be gone (tongue twister) so something must be leaking. My door seems to seal well and the gasket looks fine, the solinoids seem to close fine but there must be just enough air leaking. Any thoughts on this long winded rant would be appreciated.

[doctorb]

ral-

My E2300 is set between 185 - 195 becasue I have a 300 foot run to the house.  I lose about 5 degrees from the stove to my basement (1 1/4"). 

I would have your dealer look at your reaction chamber.  they have upgraded this portion of the unit and it is my understanding that this part is under warranty.  I have been told that the swap out of the old one for a new one is not a big deal, but who knows.

Does your unit smoke all the time?  If it does, then you may not be getting a good seal from the bypass door and your wood is overburning because the smoke is being forced down through the moon hole as well as up and out the chimney at the same time.  That's just one possible explanation for the overconsumption of wood you mentioned.

Doctorb

[ral]

Doctorb,

Mine rarely smokes at all, I was thinking that a slight leak around the door with some gasification happening at the same time would be enough to keep pulling air through, speculating because there is hardly any smoke. I do get some of course on start up and very occasionally. The slow leak might be one reason even when warm mine does not burn out, it did a couple times in Oct. when we had a few warm days. Might be easier to find if it was a bad leak. I do believe it is leaking somewhere, shut her down tonight so I can look better when she cools down.

Thanks, R

[Dean186]

I have our E-Classic 1400 temperature set at 180 degrees startup and 194 degrees shutdown.   If the stove is gasifying really well (i.e. reaction chamber temperature above 1,000 degrees) the water temperature will climb about 5 degrees above my 194 degree shutdown temperature, bringing the water temperature to 199 degrees.  This would be the water temperature as measured at the panel, which is higher than the water temperature exiting the stove. 
 
At a temperature of 200 degrees the high temperature error will display and sometimes water will spit a little from the top.  I found 194 degrees is as high as I can set shutdown temperature.   My control panel’s upper range setting is maxed out at 195 degrees.

[doctorb]

Dean186

I find it interesting that you get so much heat "momentum" that your water temp goes so far above (5 degres) the upper shut off temp of 194.  At that temp, you should get shut down of the fans and a cessation of heat production.  I would think that your temps in the firebox and the reaction chamber would drop pretty quickly after fan shutdown.  I have never seen this "over-run" of water temps with my E-2300.  If your getting "spitting" (i.e. boiling) from the top water access, I would decrease my max temp a bit to prevent a smalll but steady water loss over time.

I think that it is the controller temperature, regardless of the actual temp of the water leaving the stove, that controls the fan / solenoid sequence.  I wonder why your E-1400 does this.  Is it because the water jacket is significantly smaller and therefore the water temps rise much more quickly with your unit than mine?

Are you going to place the upgrade valve?  My plumber is coming over today and I am going to analyze it with him.

Doctorb.

[Dean186]

Doctorb,

The E-Classic 1400 programming is still a mystery to me, even though I have been trying to figure it out.  The when and the why it switches from high burn to low burn and back is the mysterious part.   It often makes sense, but other times it does not.   This would be a good posting for another thread.

Explanation:  If the furnace is in high burn mode when it reaches the shutdown temperature and the reaction chamber temperature is above 1,000 degrees, the stove goes into a “cool down” if you will, switching from high burn at the 194 degree temperature to low burn.  It will continue in low burn for a minute or two before a complete shutdown happens. (Note:  This stove will raise the temperature of the entire water jacket more than  1 degree per minute when in high burn mode and more like 15 degrees in 10 minutes if burning well).  The fact that it stays in low burn mode for a minute or two is how the temperature rises above the set point.  Also, 5 degrees is the max I have seen it go above the set point, more typically it is 2 to 3 degrees.  If it is in low burn mode when it reaches max temperature, then it just shuts down immediately and maybe a 1 degree rise will occur.

It only spits water out the top if I have the temperature above 194 degrees.  I have since set the max temperature to 193 and I never have any lose of water at that setting.  It only spit water out the top one time when I tried setting the temperature at 195 degrees. 

The valve is not sent to E-Classic 1400 owners.  I only posted here because of the question on temperature settings.   I will post more about my E-Classic 1400 installation in another post.

Dean

[doctorb]

dean186

My controller works slightly different, I think.  While it switches from high burn to low burn at the top end of the water temp cycle, it happens a degree or two prior to reaching 195, if my observations are correct.  So my E-2300 kind of "creeps up" on the T-Max of 195, and hasn't gone past it because it's already in low burn mode.  Sounds like the two units have programming differences.  It also sounds like your unit heats the water at a faster rate than mine.  With 450 gallons in the water jacket, it takes longer than 15 minutes to raise the temp back up to 195, and is obviously also dependent on the heat load removed from the water in my house

doctorb.