Author Topic: homemade lube system (Read 2603 times)

panman · « **on:** March 09, 2010, 07:05:27 pm »

Just wondering what kind of a pump motor, you guys are using for a home brewed lube system?
I read a little in the archives, any more ideas?
Jim

fishpharmer · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2010, 07:12:38 pm »

Gravity pump for me so far. It always works

Magicman · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2010, 07:16:23 pm »

Mine is not homebrewed and has an RV water pump in it. I've read where folks have used windshield washer pumps.

ErikC · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2010, 10:24:41 pm »

I had to rework mine when I put a new motor on. It is gravity fed, I highly recommend you try to make that work. If not a windshield wiper fluid pump is 12v, cheap, and provides about the right amount of flow without a lot of trouble. Easy to find a universal one at an auto parts, or if you have an old car of some kind you might be able to rob it for free.

Wudman · « **Reply #4 on:** March 10, 2010, 10:44:16 am »

Gravity for me too.

Wudman

logwalker · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2010, 04:12:16 pm »

I am using diesel and bar oil so I need something that will resist the solvent. I just picked up a nice small Carter fuel pump off of Amazon.com for $17 bucks. I added a book to it so I could get the free shipping. I expect it to work a long time. I don't have great luck with the windshield spray pumps.

Joe

thecfarm · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2010, 04:27:58 pm »

If you do go with gravity put 2 shut offs in your line.One to adjust the flow and one to turn off and on when needed.That way when you get the flow just right and you have to stop you can shut the first one off and won't have to adjust the second one again.

Chuck White · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2010, 05:27:29 pm »

Quote from: thecfarm on March 10, 2010, 04:27:58 pm

If you do go with gravity put 2 shut offs in your line.One to adjust the flow and one to turn off and on when needed.That way when you get the flow just right and you have to stop you can shut the first one off and won't have to adjust the second one again.

This is a real good idea. I just happen to have a bunch of fuel shut-off valves on hand, so I guess this will get done soon.

It's been a pain in the _ _ _, in the past when I'd shut the lube valve to change a blade, take a break, etc. then take 4-5 minutes to get it right again.

GOOD TIP, thanks.

sdunston · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2010, 05:31:22 pm »

Great advice on the second valve deal, Its at the top of my list of things to do
Thanks Sam

Wudman · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2010, 06:55:48 pm »

I went one step simpler than that. I plumbed an outlet into the bottom of a 1 gallon plastic gas can. When I need to shut off the flow, I just turn the gas can 90 degrees so the outlet is at the top.

Wudman

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 10, 2010, 09:04:50 pm »

I did something a little different, use a mix of diesel and bar oil applied with a wick top and bottom of the band.It leaves a light sheen on the band nothing sticks and I've never seen it drip.One quart of the mix seems to last forever.Frank C.

coastlogger · « **Reply #11 on:** March 10, 2010, 09:38:20 pm »

Frank as usual you seem to have an excellent idea put to use. Can you enlighten us a bit on how you rigged this up-the wick thing?Also did you try a wick onjust one side? it seems for me all the buildup is on the inside of band for reasons im not sure of.
clgr

panman · « **Reply #12 on:** March 10, 2010, 09:50:39 pm »

Frank;
I'm also curious about your set-up?
Do you have your system, on the drive side, the idle side, or both sides?
Jim

fishpharmer · « **Reply #13 on:** March 10, 2010, 10:43:27 pm »

Bandmiller2, the wick idea for top and bottom sounds like a good setup. Cooks has a similar setup although it is only for the top as far as I can tell. Here is a link.....
http://www.cookssaw.com/shop/index.php?target=products&product_id=30157

backwoods sawyer · « **Reply #14 on:** March 11, 2010, 12:31:31 am »

If you take a good look at the band wheel in the picture of the Cooks lube system, you will see that there is a build up, and that looks to me like it is the idler side. Any time you are running steel wheels you should have a wiper on them, brass and neoprene both work well for wipers. A pivot point and a counterweight is all that is needed to hold the wiper on the wheels. You can also put a wiper on the saw between the guide and the wheel.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 11, 2010, 06:42:24 am »

I am not picture capable,but its a simple device and I can describe it with my one finger.For a wick I found a whole bundle of 3/4" round wicks they used in the old road pots,you know the black kerosene smokers the put beside road ditches.They sell a new version for patio skeeter control with citronella in the oil, wicks are available.Probibly lantern wicks could be used.I took about a 6" piece of 2" square tube welded caps on boath ends.On one endcap theirs a piece of pipe 3/4" id welded hole up and down,outher cap has a hinge attached.On the top of the tube drilled and taped a fill hole for a pipe plug,and near the pipe end a 3/4 inch hole to stuff the wick in the resivour.The wick comes out ofthe resivour U turn through the piece of pipe and extends out the bottom to rest on the band.The wick rests with the weight of the device on the band because of the end hinge.When not in use the square tube will flip up verticle and stop wicking.One is mounted on the top with a hole in the guard to get the outside of the band outher is just clearing the idler wheel to get inside.I'v never seen it drip it dosen't stain or damage the lightest wood and really no smell,bands don't rust.Frank C.

thecfarm · « **Reply #16 on:** March 11, 2010, 08:23:11 am »

Just another way to get the same results.I have a drip system on mine.Just a piece of short 1/8 copper pipe shoved into a clear plastic line.Just a drip every few seconds works good.I can tell when I forget to turn it on.This drips on top of the blade.

DextorDee · « **Reply #17 on:** March 12, 2010, 02:55:44 pm »

I used a pump up 2 gal. garden sprayer.

scrout · « **Reply #18 on:** March 12, 2010, 05:07:33 pm »

I was thinking about one of these:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2356031216025301&item=1-3256&catname=water

then switch it on when I power up off idle with the electric governor/throttle.

Chuck White · « **Reply #19 on:** March 13, 2010, 09:06:26 am »

Petefrombearswamp (the previous owner of my mill) had a car windshield washer tank/pump mounted on the mill and used a diesel/gear oil mix instead of the factory water bottle.
Well, one of the first things I did was remove it and go back to the water bottle.
Now. I'm thinking of putting it back on the mill (still leaving the water bottle) and using the windshield washer tank/pump whenever I might get a bad case of Pitch Build-Up, and to clean up the blade before removal.
I'm just not sure where I'll mount it, probably just hang it on the bottom of the gas tank/water bottle shelf! The electrical is already run for it, so I just have to run the lube line across the mill and mount that near the water line.

jpgreen · « **Reply #20 on:** March 14, 2010, 12:43:59 am »

I use a Napa auto electric fuel pump. The squared shape box one. I also run an inline clear paper element Fram fuel filter on it. I just replaced the first one that I installed used, and lasted 3 years.

I use the top drip spray nozzle as well as the lower (Lubemizer) spray nozzle from woodmizer and have pressure spray to the bottom and top of the blade, via a needle valve control.

The pump works like an RV pump as it only delivers when needed, and shuts off when pressure builds from closing the valve. Slick cheap set up.

musikwerke · « **Reply #21 on:** March 14, 2010, 05:40:11 pm »

I use diesel since most of my logs are white pine and spruce. I used an old gas tank from a B & S and mounted a hand pump on top of the up/down gear box. I have the Wood-Mizer high performance blade guides on my old LT 30 so I made a fine spray nozzle by drilling a tiny hole in a 1/8" brass pipe plug and installing it in the top spray head location. Two strips of heavy felt cloth with a hole in one end hook over the pipe plugs and wrap around to make a top and bottom wiper. When I hear the sound of the blade change I just give the pump a short jab. A lot of folks are against the use of anything that isn't "green" and urethane belts are almost a must, which some people have trouble with so I haven't made a big deal about it - but it works great for me. Pictures are in my gallery.

Papa1stuff · « **Reply #22 on:** March 17, 2010, 08:23:11 am »

Well ,mine is not completly homemade ,just a little modification!! Turn it on here

[img]

Papa1stuff · « **Reply #23 on:** March 17, 2010, 08:25:00 am »

And it comes out here!!!

And I can add water any time ,even while I am milling!!

fishpharmer · « **Reply #24 on:** March 17, 2010, 09:14:07 am »

Quote from: DextorDee on March 12, 2010, 02:55:44 pm

I used a pump up 2 gal. garden sprayer.

That's what I used for a few years. Gravity is better

Magicman · « **Reply #25 on:** March 17, 2010, 09:46:53 am »

Papa, I would need a looooooong hose to use your method....

Papa1stuff · « **Reply #26 on:** March 17, 2010, 09:55:32 am »

Guess you could hook up to your customers hose

panman · « **Reply #27 on:** March 17, 2010, 10:04:31 am »

Are you guys running your lube system on the idle side, or the drive side?
I was thinking of running mine on the drive side.
Jim

robnrob2 · « **Reply #28 on:** March 17, 2010, 11:58:17 am »

My Lube is on the Idle side, and I have a wick like system, sept I use a 1" disposable chip brush,, handle cut off, drilled just above the metal band on the brush, and its bolted on just behind the drip line,, I use a deasel mix,, the brush just sorta wipes the band, just this side of the guide bearings,, only need to crack the lube to it once in a while,, maybe every 3-4 boards in pine,, much less in other woods..

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Author Topic: homemade lube system (Read 2603 times)