Woodmizer bearing problem?

[Jim_Rogers]

I have a 1994 LT30HDG24 so I have six bearing for the carriage head to ride down the rails on, four on top and two on bottom.

One of them seems to be hanging up, as it is binding sometimes as it moves down the mill, and it is making some noise as I move the mill without the engine running.

I have one new replacement bearing on hand.

I can't seem to figure out which one is not working correctly.

I've lifted the mill up off the rails with a crow bar as I think was the method we were suppose to use to check the bearings and it seems like they are all alright, the four on top.
I leaned the mill over a little and check the two bottom ones and they seem ok too.

How do you figure out which one to replace?
(Please don't tell me to replace all of them as I can't afford that right now, I'm sure you understand that....)

Some have some movement, but this movement is the same as the brand new one, so I can't seem to figure it out......

Any advice would be helpful.....

[amberwood]

Jim. The top rear one first. Top front one second. I squirt some WD40 or equivalent into the bearing and if that temporarily fixes it, well you needed a new one becase the bearing is no longer sealed and has worn out. The top ones only take 5 minutes to change and take most of the head weight so would be the first ones to change. Bottom ones are more challenging. Dont forget to spend a few min and check the head alignment after you change the bearings as it will have effected it.

rgs

DTR

[WH_Conley]

I have found that Mizer bearings have a larger seal the the after market replacements at the parts warehouse. If there is no groove in the bearing where it rides on the rail pop the grease seal out, soak in solvent, dry it good and repack with grease and replace seal. I have found that most of the time all that is wrong is they get dry. I have a complete set (after market) in the mill shed soaking in transmission fluid, about every six months, on a slow day I just swap them out.

[woodmills1]

Have you replaced any bearings before now?  If not you may still have the old style.  If you have the old style I would change them all, realign the head and you should be good for another 16 years.

[Jim_Rogers]

On the four on top, two have grease fittings, two do not.

Thanks for your advice on re-oiling them.

How or what is the best way to hold the carriage up while you change them?

Edit, also, while looking for spare parts I found two used ones in the boxes marked that they came from the bottom track. And there was at least one more used one there, of course all of these used ones the bearings were junk.

[LeeB]

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,19439.msg278488.html#msg278488

Try here for some info.

[amberwood]

To change the top ones, undo the bolt of one brg, then slip the flat end of a jemmy bar under the brg mounting plate and lever off the top of the main chassis. All you need to do is just take the load off the bolt to remove the brg, then replace in the same method.

DTR

[ARKANSAWYER]

  With the top covers removed and the engine off set the mill to go forward down the track.  Put a metal bar on the middle of the bearing.  You can put your ear up to the bar and hear the bad bearing.  It will growl and make noise.   The one I lose the most is the single one on top near the front of the mill.  My wifes stethoscope works good but I can only use it when she is not home.

[LeeB]

  With the top covers removed and the engine off set the mill to go forward down the track.  Put a metal bar on the middle of the bearing.  You can put your ear up to the bar and hear the bad bearing.  It will growl and make noise.   The one I lose the most is the single one on top near the front of the mill.  My wifes stethoscope works good but I can only use it when she is not home.

Is that why you been having headaches? 

[Jim H]

Your mill being a '94, you should have the older bearings, made by RBC I believe. They don't last quite as long as the newer ones stamped McGill or woodmizer, BUT you can grease the older ones with a grease needle by sliding it under the lip of the seal. You can grease the upper ones on the machine, the lower ones have to be removed, as the seal is close to the bottom frame tube. I have gotten close to 6000 hours out of a few this way. They usually start to drag around 12-1500 hours.

[Jim_Rogers]

Thanks for all your advice, and the link to that other thread.
I read every post over there.

I never thought to use a splitting wedge to hold the mill up, but that looks like it will work.
I'll have to see if my mechanic has a stethoscope I can borrow, I've seen them before but don't have one,..... yet.....

I'll post what I find out..... when I do....

[MartyParsons]

Usually you can feel the roughness in the bearings. A quick check is remove the Power feed belt and push the saw head and listen for the bearing. Also check the bearings in the Power feed shaft and the idler for the power feed chain.
Hope this helps!
Marty

[Jim_Rogers]

Usually you can feel the roughness in the bearings. A quick check is remove the Power feed belt and push the saw head and listen for the bearing. Also check the bearings in the Power feed shaft and the idler for the power feed chain.
Hope this helps!
Marty

I was starting to think it was the power feed system, but how do you check out these bearings?

[sparks]

Soak down the upper rail with transmission fluid. As you run the head down the track the bad bearing will slide and not turn. You can do the same on the bottom as well.

[Jim_Rogers]

ok, thanks. I'll try that as well.....

[Jim_Rogers]

Also check the bearings in the Power feed shaft and the idler for the power feed chain.
..........
Marty

Marty: How do you check the power feed shaft and idler for bad bearings?

Is it simply to remove the chain and see if they wiggle up and down?

Jim

[MartyParsons]

Remove the chain tension and remove the belt. can you wigle the shaft? Remove the two 3/8 bolts and remove the assembly.  I have seen some grind the shaft down to a pencil thickness. . Not a real diffucult repair just two bearings and a shaft. You can pick up the bearings at a local parts store if needed. We have them in stock also. When you remove the belt the saw head should roll real easy. I remove the belt when doing an alignment some times, makes life easier. Record how the chain travels over the gear and idler before removing.
Marty

[woodmills1]

If you haven't found the problem yet look at the idler gear on the chain feed.  I had an alignment problem there on the LT40 that caused a feed problem.

[Jim_Rogers]

Thanks Marty, and James.

I'll let you know what it is when I figure it out.

I have the mill on a job, right now, with four more pine logs to cut up tomorrow.

Once that is done I'll be bringing the mill back to the sawmill yard and will have a chance to really look at everything and see what's up....

Jim Rogers

[Jim_Rogers]

Well, I finished my "on the road job" early Thursday afternoon, and then brought the mill home.

Saturday morning I figured was a good time to take a look at things.

I didn't have the mill "set up" in it's regular spot as I haven't plowed the snow over there yet, and it will probably be all melted by the time I move the mill there late Monday or Tuesday morning. Very nice days here lately, over 40° so lots of melting going on.

I asked my regular truck mechanic if I could borrow his stethoscope to listen to the bearings. He didn't have one, so I asked one auto parts store clerk when I was there getting other parts, and they didn't sell them, but could order it. So I figured I'd just use a stick like everyone says I should do.

Well, everyone likes new tools and that includes me. I looked online at Napa and they had one listed. I called my local store and they had one on hand. So $12 later I had a very nice mechanic stethoscope ready to tackle this investigation job.

I lowered the back out rigger so that I could run the carriage head back and forth without sending the hitch end into outer space, again,,,,, don't ask me how I know that happens

And removed the track wiper/oiler thing in between the bearing covers, the bearing covers, the battery cover, and the chain guard. Got out my one replacement bearing and a nice steel splitting wedge to hold the frame up after I figured out which bearing was bad.

I ran the carriage back and forth four or six times and it glided down and back like new, no noise, no sticking, no binding, nothing. I tested or listened to each bearing on the four on top and couldn't hear any binding in them. I listened to the two on the chain drive and couldn't hear anything there.

I couldn't run it down and back to listen to the bottom bearing as I was alone and couldn't start and stop the carriage from underneath the mill. So I don't know if the lower ones are the ones binding up or not.

I'll have to wait until Monday afternoon when my friend stops by and we can do this together to see if I can figure out which one is binding.

If I was to tell you that it only binds when sawing does that give you an clue as to whether or not it is the power feed unit bearings or the track bearings?

It did bind on the last few logs I did saw at the "road job" but it seemed like it was only binding when it was passing over the axle area, which made me seem to think that something may have been rubbing but I checked everywhere and there was good clearance between the battery box and the axle and frame....so I don't get it....

As of right now, I'm kind of stumped as to what it is......

Jim Rogers