Author Topic: Shaper cutter (Read 1624 times)

troutcreekman · « **on:** February 10, 2010, 12:35:55 am »

Howdy,

Does anyone make a T&G shaper cutter for 1 1/2" decking? I can.t seem to find one. Too Big? Thanks, David

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #1 on:** February 10, 2010, 05:47:44 am »

Probably have to use a slot cutter and a stacked slot cutter. Heck I can't even cut molding on a 1/2" shank 2 HP table mounted router. The bits break when cutting hardwood, will work I suppose in pine. But hardwood will bust them bits unless you take multiple passes.

pineywoods · « **Reply #2 on:** February 10, 2010, 09:14:57 am »

I have a carbide set that will go 1 1/2. Came from a company called MLCS, I usually get a catalog bundled with the catalogs from Penn State Industries.

Den Socling · « **Reply #3 on:** February 10, 2010, 10:42:36 am »

SD,

I wonder why those bits break on you. I run lots of hardwood on the same setup and have never broken a bit. This includes a lot of tongue and groove paneling done in a single pass through white oak. And my bits have come from ebay and Grizzly.

Den

troutcreekman · « **Reply #4 on:** February 10, 2010, 11:40:18 am »

Here are a few more details. I am trying to find the best way to make 2x6 T&G with western red cedar for roof decking. I will be in a location with solar and wind power off the grid and will have access to a 5kw generator. Moulder/planers use to many amps. AMP wise a 3hp shaper would probably work or a 3hp router table but for these last two options I haven't seen T&G Cutters for 1 1/2" lumber. Are there other ways to skin this cat? thanks again, David

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #5 on:** February 10, 2010, 11:52:48 am »

Yeah, I don't know Den and the bits I was using on ash, they were not cheap bits. Not a nice feeling to be half way down a 4 foot piece and see a molding bit bend over and make lots of noise. Stand back and tap the kill switch on the table with a stick. My response would be highly censored on this forum.

woodmills1 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2010, 05:24:41 pm »

did you try the grizzly catalogue, they have a lot of shaper cutters. You may need more than a 1/2 shaft.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #7 on:** February 10, 2010, 05:29:02 pm »

Looks that way alright, bigger than 1/2" shank I mean.

pineywoods · « **Reply #8 on:** February 10, 2010, 05:55:24 pm »

I've busted off a few cutters with 1/4 inch shanks, but never 1/2. You aren't leaving them stick way out above the collet I hope..

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #9 on:** February 10, 2010, 06:06:21 pm »

No way.

jdtuttle · « **Reply #10 on:** February 10, 2010, 08:09:45 pm »

You can use a table saw with a dado or router with slot bit & cut grooves on both sides. Rip splines to join the 2x6's.
jim

troutcreekman · « **Reply #11 on:** February 10, 2010, 08:17:02 pm »

I like that idea, would be ripping a lot of splines though! Thanks, David
Have you done that before?

pasbuild · « **Reply #12 on:** February 10, 2010, 08:23:06 pm »

The cutters your looking for are readily available with a 1¼ bore, just bush them down to your arbor size. I wouldn't try this on anything less then a ¾ arbor though and multiple passes might work best.

scsmith42 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 10, 2010, 08:30:02 pm »

Quote from: troutcreekman on February 10, 2010, 11:40:18 am

Here are a few more details. I am trying to find the best way to make 2x6 T&G with western red cedar for roof decking. I will be in a location with solar and wind power off the grid and will have access to a 5kw generator. Moulder/planers use to many amps. AMP wise a 3hp shaper would probably work or a 3hp router table but for these last two options I haven't seen T&G Cutters for 1 1/2" lumber. Are there other ways to skin this cat? thanks again, David

David, rather than T&G could you use a shiplap joint? If so, all that you'll need is a straight cutter and those are very common.

If you need T&G, several companies can make one for you if it's not a stock item.

Another choice - that may be more economical, is to purchase a moulding head for the shaper, and use inserts. Grizzly sells the moulding heads that take a corrugated knife, and all of the major moulding suppliers have these options too. http://www.grizzly.com/products/2-Moulding-Head-w-3-4-Bore/G2320

Here in NC, Moulder Services, Inc (MSI) has a good reputation. http://www.moulderservices.com/ I've been purchasing the profile knives for my Baker M412 from them and their price and quality has been excellent. A set of profile knives for the Baker are usually around 80 bucks, give or take.

troutcreekman · « **Reply #14 on:** February 10, 2010, 09:24:32 pm »

The 2x6's will be used for roof decking I wonder if code allows the shiplap vs. t&g? I could definitely do the ship lap on my 3hp router with table. I will look for 1 1/2" T&G moulder cutters for adding on to a shaper also, thanks for the great input. Keep those ideas coming! Thanks, David

beenthere · « **Reply #15 on:** February 10, 2010, 09:27:11 pm »

Two passes through the shiplap head will give the tongue, and that just leaves the groove to cut on the other edge.

With some precision, of course...

jdtuttle · « **Reply #16 on:** February 11, 2010, 05:57:57 am »

Quote

I like that idea, would be ripping a lot of splines though! Thanks, David
Have you done that before?

Yep! Sounds like your off the grid somewhere. You can make the cuts with a router, You can even make a small v detail on the bottom side, but you should make that detail first. If you don't have a table saw to make the splines you can make a jig for your worm drive or any saw you have. Shiplap may work as noted below depending on rafter spacing. But tounge & groove is better.
jim

dail_h · « **Reply #17 on:** February 11, 2010, 10:45:52 am »

Look for "Cotton Mill Flooring Cutters"

woodmills1 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 12, 2010, 08:20:40 am »

I took a few minutes to search for v match tounge and groove cutters on the internet and the tallest I could find would cut 1 3/16". My grizzly catalogue only has cutters up to 3/4" bore and I would swear it used to list larger ones. I will check some of my older and other catalogues if I can

ljmathias · « **Reply #19 on:** March 15, 2010, 08:22:51 am »

I seem to recall Woodmaster having T&G for up to 4" stock... and they use routers mounted on their planers for getting the three-side work done.

Lj

ksu_chainsaw · « **Reply #20 on:** March 15, 2010, 11:31:09 am »

If you are working off-grid on this project, I would look at doing most of the work with a tablesaw- faster cutting speed with less amp draw for cutting the large stuff.
I would get a good dado head and mill each board with 3 passes- one for the grove, and two for the tongue. This also will help to reduce the tearout that a large shaper cutter could produce with that much material removed in one pass.

If it was possible, I would make a shiplap joint on the stock, only requiring 2 passes, and the material would still have most of the structural integrity that a tongue and groove would have.

Charles

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Author Topic: Shaper cutter (Read 1624 times)