Hey Noble

[Fla._Deadheader]

  Ya might have missed the post, but, re: gang rip saw thread, I stated that my Corley edger had an angle iron between the stationary saw and the frame, that was adjustable. Does yours have that???
 If not, I may have to draw up a pic and submit it, so an edger can be modded.

[Bro. Noble]

Harold,

Ours is already modified for what we use it to do.  I don't know if the pictures show,  but there is a 1X6 hanging over the side of the frame by the stationary blade  (which is set at 6 in exact.  We get six inch diminsion and pallet lumber (if there is one strait edge )  on the fixed saw.  Stuff that needs to be edged on both edges is run between the two moveable blades,  six inch grade boards and other boards with one strair edge boards are edged on the side with a moveable blade.  It measures a little over the nominal width so that 6 in.  boards will not be knocked out of FAS for being too narrow.

We have a lot of pallet boards that come off of the resaw that have one or both edges with too much wane.  this is where the 1X6 that is hinged  to the frame by the stationary saw (using pieces of old flat belt) comes in.  We flop it over,  thus blocking off the first six inches.  We move both movable saws toward the stationary saw.  Now we run the 6 in barkey pallet boards through------against the hinged board to take 4 in off of one side or between the two movable saws to get 4 in out of the middle of the 6 in board by trimming both edges.

Works for us

[Fla._Deadheader]

  Same difference as what I was askin. Forgot who made the original post. They was askin about a gang saw and I figgered a mod, like you or I had would be a cheap way to get the job done.  Thanks

[D._Frederick]

Noble,
If you are edging a 12 ft flitch, how straight will the cut be? Does it make a difference if one saw is cutting or if two saws are cutting? Thanks for your reply.

[Bro. Noble]

D_F,

If you are running one strait edge against the fence,  the board will be true.  If you are edging both edges,  it may try to make an arch.  Such things as dull or unequal blades,  chunks of bark or debris on the flitch  or more knots on one side of the board can contribute to curving.  You can keep hold of the flitch and guide it if you need to.  I used to curve them on purpose with pallet stuff if there were a pallet board in each end of a flitch that weren't in the same plane.  My son would get pithed though and throw them in the edging bunk cause they made his lumber stack untidy

[Kevin_H.]

DH, Noble,
thanks for the info...I think the edger we are looking at has one fixed and one moveable blade...Even as an edger it will still help us up production vs. edging on the mill.

Is the fixed blade truly fixed, or can it be moved, just not as easy?

[Fla._Deadheader]

  My fixed blade was fastened with a set screw to the shaft. It would be pretty simple to build the Angle Iron thingy I described. Noble's is a fixed dimension of 6".

[Bro. Noble]

Kevin,

The fixed blade is adjustable as Harold indicates.  If you look at the pictures Jeff posted on the 'events & places to meet'  forum,  It shows our edger with the board I was talking about hanging over the side.  You could have different sizes of boards to make smaller strips.  For cutting stringers for example.  Harold's adjustable angle iron does the same thing.

A two saw edger will do anything you need to do,  just not as convenient sometimes.  Using an edger rather than edging on the saw is like using a dump truck rather than a wheelbarrow in my opinion.

[Kevin_H.]

Thanks noble, keeps on sounding better and better